New aquarium / built-in overflow review

esb

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I am new to reefing and am having a custom 120 gallon / 48" x 24" x 24" acrylic tank built. It will have a built-in overflow and I'd like to get some additional eyes on my proposed design to make sure it will work properly.

The overflow will be 12" x 5" and will have a Bean Animal overflow with 3 x 1" pipes and two 3/4" returns that exit through the sides at the top.


Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 3.02.28 PM.png

Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 3.12.11 PM.png

Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 3.03.20 PM.png


Does that look like that will be a workable, quiet design? I may just have the return Line-Loc route through the overflow side instead of having bulkheads on each side. The slots as modeled are 1/2" wide. Is that a decent size to allow flow but prevent animals from getting into the overflow? Do folks use any kind of screening to provide additional protection? Is there an accepted vertical distance between each of the primary, secondary and emergency overflow openings?

Additionally, I have ~5" between the overflow sides and the sides of the aquarium. With the overflow extending 5" into the tank, is it reasonable to have a VorTech MP40mQD powerhead on each side? From what I can find, the wet side of that powerhead has a 3" diameter and extends into the tank 3".

Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 3.01.42 PM.png
 

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I am new to reefing and am having a custom 120 gallon / 48" x 24" x 24" acrylic tank built. It will have a built-in overflow and I'd like to get some additional eyes on my proposed design to make sure it will work properly.

The overflow will be 12" x 5" and will have a Bean Animal overflow with 3 x 1" pipes and two 3/4" returns that exit through the sides at the top.


Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 3.02.28 PM.png

Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 3.12.11 PM.png

Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 3.03.20 PM.png


Does that look like that will be a workable, quiet design? I may just have the return Line-Loc route through the overflow side instead of having bulkheads on each side. The slots as modeled are 1/2" wide. Is that a decent size to allow flow but prevent animals from getting into the overflow? Do folks use any kind of screening to provide additional protection? Is there an accepted vertical distance between each of the primary, secondary and emergency overflow openings?

Additionally, I have ~5" between the overflow sides and the sides of the aquarium. With the overflow extending 5" into the tank, is it reasonable to have a VorTech MP40mQD powerhead on each side? From what I can find, the wet side of that powerhead has a 3" diameter and extends into the tank 3".

Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 3.01.42 PM.png
I just set up a 400g with same plumbing- this is a durso layout
 

vetteguy53081

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Clearly this is a bean animal.
What do you mean this is a durso.
Not sure where rest of wording went but was to say looks like a multi version of a durso I just set up

1670727512360.png
1670727570046.png
 
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esb

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Removable glass combs in the overflow seem to be the new thing.
What is the benefit of a removable comb? I can see maybe a benefit to a moveable comb to control/tune the overflow level, though I'd want to define that relative to the top of the tank.

What typically do folks set as the water level relative to the top of the tank?
 
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esb

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Clearly this is a bean animal.
What do you mean this is a durso.
I definitely intended for it to be a bean animal design, though I probably messed it up a bit. AFAICT, typically a bean animal design has the primary overflow / siphon as just a vertical pipe (some with a strainer) and then the secondary/Durso has a 180 degree bend and air / release at the top to prevent a full siphon. I'll need to update the design to handle that.
 

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What is the benefit of a removable comb? I can see maybe a benefit to a moveable comb to control/tune the overflow level, though I'd want to define that relative to the top of the tank.

What typically do folks set as the water level relative to the top of the tank?
The benefit of a removable weir comb is that you can clean the comb teeth.
 

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Folks have messed with it a lot over the years, but the original beananimal was just 3 bulkheads of equal height on a side piece of glass with elbows inside and tees outside. The specifics aren't super important as long as you know how it works and how to fix problems that arise by messing with the design.

1/2" teeth are pretty big. If you're keeping smaller fish, at that size, I'd just use a smooth size. An overflow cover can reduce the opening to a horizontal slot instead of vertical like teeth. Some folks are uncomfortable with this, and if you are, 1/4" teeth, gutter guard, netting, etc. work. You'll need a cover for the tank and overflow if you're worried about fish jumping.

The issue I see with your plumbing if it's to be taken at scale are the heights of the pipes. Give the siphon a few inches above for pressure so water can push air out of the pipe on start up. The height of the open channel isn't as important if you can do that.

Relative to the top of the tank, I like the water level to be 1" below. Your level will depend on your weir and how many gph you plan to pump through it with your return pump. Teeth reduce your weir length by default, which means your water level will be higher compared to an overflow without teeth.
 
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esb

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Folks have messed with it a lot over the years, but the original beananimal was just 3 bulkheads of equal height on a side piece of glass with elbows inside and tees outside. The specifics aren't super important as long as you know how it works and how to fix problems that arise by messing with the design.

1/2" teeth are pretty big. If you're keeping smaller fish, at that size, I'd just use a smooth size. An overflow cover can reduce the opening to a horizontal slot instead of vertical like teeth. Some folks are uncomfortable with this, and if you are, 1/4" teeth, gutter guard, netting, etc. work. You'll need a cover for the tank and overflow if you're worried about fish jumping.

The tank will have the teeth going up to the bracing and have a cover over the overflow area (including teeth). It does sound at least like I should have the teeth size reduced to 1/4".

The issue I see with your plumbing if it's to be taken at scale are the heights of the pipes. Give the siphon a few inches above for pressure so water can push air out of the pipe on start up. The height of the open channel isn't as important if you can do that.

Relative to the top of the tank, I like the water level to be 1" below. Your level will depend on your weir and how many gph you plan to pump through it with your return pump. Teeth reduce your weir length by default, which means your water level will be higher compared to an overflow without teeth.

Thanks. Here is an updated design that includes a 6" gap from the primary siphon to the emergency overflow. I have the secondary / Durso ~1" below the emergency. The main water level is set by the height of the Durso / secondary, correct? Is that typically above or below the bottom of the weir? I may want to raise the Durso to ensure the water level is high enough. I do like the idea of having the water level ~1" below the top of the aquarium.

Screenshot 2022-12-10 at 8.40.32 PM.png
 
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esb

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Thanks. Here is an updated design that includes a 6" gap from the primary siphon to the emergency overflow. I have the secondary / Durso ~1" below the emergency. The main water level is set by the height of the Durso / secondary, correct? Is that typically above or below the bottom of the weir? I may want to raise the Durso to ensure the water level is high enough. I do like the idea of having the water level ~1" below the top of the aquarium.
In thinking about it, I'd want to make sure the emergency overflow is enough below the top of the tank that there is it can really handle full overflow duties if the primary and Durso overflows get blocked. And the Durso should be enough below the emergency overflow so that there is near zero flow through the emergency (not sure yet how much surface turbulence I'm likely to have). I'm expecting to set 1000-1200 gph for the return pump(s) (2 pumps, one of which will be going through a UV filter and limited to ~76 gph).
 

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The main water level is set by the height of the Durso / secondary, correct?
Water level in the overflow, yes. Water level in the tank is determined by the weir and return pump. These aren't actual numbers, but imagine the water level rises 1/4" above the weir at 500 gph from your return pump. At 1000 gph, the water rises to 1/2" above the weir.
Is that typically above or below the bottom of the weir? I may want to raise the Durso to ensure the water level is high enough.
Below. Above, you get no skimming of the surface. Ideally the waterfall from the water... falling over the weir and into the overflow is about 1" for noise reasons, but it's more like 2"-3" (or more) in practice. It's less of an issue with lower gph.
I do like the idea of having the water level ~1" below the top of the aquarium.
Depends overflow size, teeth and desired gph. Weir 1.5"-2" below the top is reasonable for most tanks with shorter overflows and/or teeth.
the Durso should be enough below the emergency overflow so that there is near zero flow through the emergency
There should be zero flow through the dry emergency except during emergencies and start up for some systems. Unlikely for your system since you can just move the siphon down more if needed.
I'm expecting to set 1000-1200 gph for the return pump
22" weir @ 1/4" teeth on 1/2" centers, 1000gph, I have ~5/8" rise. Very rough estimate, and you're likely not going to get expected value out of your pumps at 3/4" plumbing unless it's been accounted for.
 
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esb

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Water level in the overflow, yes. Water level in the tank is determined by the weir and return pump. These aren't actual numbers, but imagine the water level rises 1/4" above the weir at 500 gph from your return pump. At 1000 gph, the water rises to 1/2" above the weir.

Below. Above, you get no skimming of the surface. Ideally the waterfall from the water... falling over the weir and into the overflow is about 1" for noise reasons, but it's more like 2"-3" (or more) in practice. It's less of an issue with lower gph.

Depends overflow size, teeth and desired gph. Weir 1.5"-2" below the top is reasonable for most tanks with shorter overflows and/or teeth.

There should be zero flow through the dry emergency except during emergencies and start up for some systems. Unlikely for your system since you can just move the siphon down more if needed.

22" weir @ 1/4" teeth on 1/2" centers, 1000gph, I have ~5/8" rise. Very rough estimate, and you're likely not going to get expected value out of your pumps at 3/4" plumbing unless it's been accounted for.
Thanks. That definitely helps understand some of the relationships (while hopefully not needing a degree in fluid dynamics :). I had originally been working with 1" return plumbing, but realized all of the Loc-Line flexible hose used for returns max out at 3/4", so I figured I wouldn't really be any worse off with 3/4" return pipes in the overflow (I'll have 1" pipes going into a reducer right before they enter the bottom of the overflow). I was doing everything possible to shrink the total overflow size to ensure I have enough size on the sides for powerheads.
 

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Water level in the overflow, yes. Water level in the tank is determined by the weir and return pump. These aren't actual numbers, but imagine the water level rises 1/4" above the weir at 500 gph from your return pump. At 1000 gph, the water rises to 1/2" above the weir.

Below. Above, you get no skimming of the surface. Ideally the waterfall from the water... falling over the weir and into the overflow is about 1" for noise reasons, but it's more like 2"-3" (or more) in practice. It's less of an issue with lower gph.

Depends overflow size, teeth and desired gph. Weir 1.5"-2" below the top is reasonable for most tanks with shorter overflows and/or teeth.

There should be zero flow through the dry emergency except during emergencies and start up for some systems. Unlikely for your system since you can just move the siphon down more if needed.

22" weir @ 1/4" teeth on 1/2" centers, 1000gph, I have ~5/8" rise. Very rough estimate, and you're likely not going to get expected value out of your pumps at 3/4" plumbing unless it's been accounted for.
Water over the wier on mine is about 1/2". More than that I get the waterfall noise. I couldn't imagine at 2".
 
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