New 300 gallon build -- some questions

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reely989

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Ha! I spent a few years battling nitrates. I learned a few lessons. If you want more info I can provide my experiences, I tried vodka dosing, water changes, Pellet reactor and many things. But, in the end, my jerry-rigged denitration factory is working wonders and has no cost upkeep and no fear of things breaking down over time. Initially when I was using filter socks, I needed something to polish the water. So I bought a Nu-Clear cannister filter with a 25 micron cartridge from Marine and Reef. (around $200). It's not a typical cannister filter. The top has a stainless steel spring collar to seal the unit so it's easy to open and close and clean.

Well, after a few months of being tired of washing the filter cartridge and nitrates skyrocketing no matter what I did (e.g. peak Nitrates were around 75ppm). I plumbed the cannister off my return manifold with a ball valve so I can control the water flow into it.

That said I removed the cartridge, and filled it with around $20 - $25 of Matrix rock. It's just small pieces of pourous rock that doesn't break down. I filled the cannister filter 3/4 full of rock. Sealed it up and adjusted the water flow to just barely cover all the rock and it drains near my skimmer intake. It took a solid 6 months for it to have an impact. I even dosed Micro bacter 7 and Micro bacter clean to try to seed the rocks with bacteria. I don't know the science, but the matrix rocks said they work better to populate bacteria if nitrates are at 20 or below. So, I did 2 50% water changes in a month got nitrates down between 10 and 20 and as a result, they've never risen above 15 since then Over 2 years ago, with minimal 20% water changes. I've increased the bio load and feeding amount and types of food fed and nitrates never deviate. So, I feel like the "Denitration factory" is working great. (Tested with Hanna High range Nitrate tester).

You could use anything that has a slow flow that runs aquarium water over the matrix rock. I like the set it and forget it piece of this. I haven't touched those rocks in over 2 years. I don't want to disturb or hurt the bacteria at all. :)

Pellet reactor may work in a similar way, but you need to replace the pellets every 3 -6 months. Too much maintenance for my liking and added maintenance cost. The pellets cost close to $60 and the matrix rock was $25 once and done.

Let me know if you want pictures. My sump build is NOT pretty. I go for function vs. pretty and sustaining nitrates in an acceptable range is tough! I found it hard to get the right bacteria to populate to reduce nitrates. If people could manufacture the specific strains in a bottled dosing method that I could dose to populate the rocks would have sped up the process from 6 months to a few weeks. But, I haven't found anything that shows specific strains of bacteria.

I think I get it! I may try that if I have issues with nitrates. I'm carbon dosing my 5 gallon right now and that's been working ok so far, so hopefully it'll keep working with the tank swap.
 

Treefer32

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I think I get it! I may try that if I have issues with nitrates. I'm carbon dosing my 5 gallon right now and that's been working ok so far, so hopefully it'll keep working with the tank swap.
I tried vodka dosing. I was up to 65 ml of vodka per day and had bacterial sludge coating my pumps, skimmers, everything. Still had high nitrates. i stopped vodka dosing. It was not helping with nitrates for me. But I have a high bioload or had the wrong type of bacteria or something.
 
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reely989

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I tried vodka dosing. I was up to 65 ml of vodka per day and had bacterial sludge coating my pumps, skimmers, everything. Still had high nitrates. i stopped vodka dosing. It was not helping with nitrates for me. But I have a high bioload or had the wrong type of bacteria or something.
What pump do you use with your nu-clear?
 

Treefer32

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I have an external return pump - Reeflo Hammerhead hybrid. Total output is around 5000 GPH. I have a flow meter on my UV (plumbed off the return as well) and that is showing around 1100 gph going through the UV. I have a manifold for the Nu-clear cannister with ball valve 3/4 closed, and a manifold plumbed to my ATS with that 25% closed, and then UV bypass to allow any excess flow to go to the display bypassing the UV. Total flow rate to the display is probably around 2200 gph. Which at around total volume of 350 gallons, that's cycling everything through the sump and UV 8 times an hour or more.

My overflows on my display are rated at 1200 gph each and I have 2, so, around 2400 gph is my max flowrate.

Through the matrix rock in the cannister filter, my best guess, would be 500-700 gph.
 

thomas_neil

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I am in the proses of setting up a 240 8x2x2 so close to what you are doing. I went with the Bashsea Pro-48 with a Reeffactory Large roller. I wanted the extra room in the stand hence the 48 over the 60. Roller wise I should have gone with the Medium roller as the Large is HUGE.

IMG_2146.jpeg IMG_2157.jpeg
How did you weasel that in there? I have the 60" Bashsea sump with the L roller and can only get it to fit on an angle.
 

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