New 180g Custom Planet Aquarium

[JPK_Esquire]

Putting together an upgrade (pretty big one) to my 32g Biocube.

Current build is looking like:

Tank:

• 180g (72.5x24x25) Planet Aquarium with internal overflow (3x 1.5” drains and 1” return)
• 120 lbs CaribSea Shapes
• 120 lbs Livesand
• Trigger Systems CR44 Sump
• Brightwell bricks in the sump

Return Pump

• Neptune Cor-20

Lighting

• Aquatic Life 61” T5-LED Hybrid Fixture
• 4 x Kessil A360x

Heaters

• Eheim 200 watt x2

ATO

• Tunze Osmolater 3155

Protein Skimmer

• Reef Octopus Regal 200INT

NYOS Torq Reactor (Carbon and GFO)

Powerheads

• I currently have 2 Nero 5s I intend to use, but may switch to MP40s in the future.

APEX Controller

Anything I’m missing?

 

[JPK_Esquire]

Initial questions:

I know it’s been done to death (I’ve been reading it to death), but is 10x turnover through the sump necessary? Answer is probably not. But is there a big advantage (I don’t plan to do the Trident method). I ask because the Planet Aquarium comes drilled for 1” bulkheads, which I’ve read will only push about 900 gph using a bean animal overflow (what I’m planning to use). Additionall, the bigger bulkheads will expand the overflow about 3 inches wide (1.5 inch either side of center overflow). In order to get to 10x, I have to go up to 1.5” bulkheads, which I keep reading is what everyone says to do and control with a gate valve (i’ll use a gate valve regardless of the size of bulkheads). But if my skimmer can only process something like 450 gph and I’m reading that 5x turnover through the sump is more than sufficient, do I REALLY need to go with the 1.5” bulkheads, or is it even a good idea to pay the extra $ for the bigger plumbing and additional cost for the tank? I just dont want to get the 1” and later wish I’d got the bigger bulkheads.

Note: The Neptune Cor-20 allegedly can do 2000 GPH.

Flow in the tank will be controlled via powerheads, so I’m not relying on the return for flow in the tank. Thus, the question I think is turnover/flow through the sump.

This is the final question holding up the purchase.

 

[mich2599]

How thick is the glass? Can the Nero pumps stay on?

 

[JoshH]

Initial questions:

I know it’s been done to death (I’ve been reading it to death), but is 10x turnover through the sump necessary? Answer is probably not. But is there a big advantage (I don’t plan to do the Trident method). I ask because the Planet Aquarium comes drilled for 1” bulkheads, which I’ve read will only push about 900 gph using a bean animal overflow (what I’m planning to use). Additionall, the bigger bulkheads will expand the overflow about 3 inches wide (1.5 inch either side of center overflow). In order to get to 10x, I have to go up to 1.5” bulkheads, which I keep reading is what everyone says to do and control with a gate valve (i’ll use a gate valve regardless of the size of bulkheads). But if my skimmer can only process something like 450 gph and I’m reading that 5x turnover through the sump is more than sufficient, do I REALLY need to go with the 1.5” bulkheads, or is it even a good idea to pay the extra $ for the bigger plumbing and additional cost for the tank? I just dont want to get the 1” and later wish I’d got the bigger bulkheads.

Note: The Neptune Cor-20 allegedly can do 2000 GPH.

Flow in the tank will be controlled via powerheads, so I’m not relying on the return for flow in the tank. Thus, the question I think is turnover/flow through the sump.

This is the final question holding up the purchase.

First and biggest question, is this tank being delivered from PA with holes for 1" bulkheads???

 

[JPK_Esquire]

How thick is the glass? Can the Nero pumps stay on?

1/2 inch glass on sides (it’s braced). Should be fine for the Neros.

 

[JPK_Esquire]

First and biggest question, is this tank being delivered from PA with holes for 1" bulkheads???

No. I’m ordering it through my LFS. If I want 1.5” bulkheads, PA will make it custom with the three 1.5” drains. Standard is two 1” drains and 2 3/4” returns. The special order is an extra $250. Which in the grand scheme isn’t a lot, BUT if I’m going to close the gate valve and slow the dc pump down, then why pay the extra $250?

 

[JoshH]

No. I’m ordering it through my LFS. If I want 1.5” bulkheads, PA will make it custom with the three 1.5” drains. Standard is two 1” drains and 2 3/4” returns. The special order is an extra $250. Which in the grand scheme isn’t a lot, BUT if I’m going to close the gate valve and slow the dc pump down, then why pay the extra $250?

Lately the popular opinion on flow through a sump is 3-5 times the display volume. Triton still recommends 10 times flow but that's not really a requirement otherwise. Bigger drains give you more flexibility down the road if you ever do want to up your flow through the sump. I think you'd be just fine with the 1" drains, but it is nice to have that flexibility down the road. I would atleast up the size of your return to 1" if you don't do anything else.

 

[JPK_Esquire]

So after way too much reading and going back and forth I forget how many times, I finally settled on two 1.5” bulkheads and two 1.25” bulkheads. The overflow is an internal center overflow, and I’m going to be going with bean animal. The two 1.5” bulkheads will be the primary (full siphon) and secondary/open drains. The two 1.25” bulkheads are going to serve as the emergency drain and return. I plan to split the return via lockline and go out each side of the overflow.

 

[JPK_Esquire]

Current questions involve:

1. (Yes, it has been way overdone), bare bottom or sand bed? For all the reasons everyone else says (easier to clean, unlimited flow, dirty sand), I'm leaning towards bare bottom. However, (a) I'm still relatively new to reefing (9 months) so the added comfort of the sand bed is appealing, (b) I DO like the look of sand, (c) part of the high-flow requirement is I would like an SPS-dominant tank, but have never done SPS (current experience is with LPS in a BioCube), and (d) the cost of adding Starboard/ABS to the bottom of the tank is likely to be about the same cost as sand, but trying to find someone to cut it is going to be PITA.

2. Should I add a Refugium and/or an Algae Scrubber? The display tank is going to get quite a bit of diffused light from the room it is in (there is a window nearby that if the blinds are not closed, would provide 2 hours of direct light a day---yeah I know, but wife has put her foot down). Accordingly, potential algae growth is a little bit of a concern I have.

Fuge: The sump is a Trigger systems 44 gallon sump, with a 15x14 area for a fuge. I'll likely keep the height in the sump at 7.5-8 inches, so that makes for about a 7 gallon fuge, which seems small for a 180 gallon display tank. If I went with a fuge I'd light it with a Kessil H380. BRS's recent tests appear to show that using fuge really works. However, I am going to already have an over-sized protein skimmer and a carbon (and GFO if necessary) media reactor. I don't want to kill all PO all together.

Algae Scrubber: This isn't the top of my list because I think the trickle of water that I read is inevitable would probably bother my wife and I. Also, with a protein skimmer and fuge, algae scrubber is probably overkill. However, the non-aquarium light is the primary concern.

I should note that I plan to keep all the lights off in the tank for the first three months and be fish only with a number utilitarian fish (yellow tang, kole tang, sailfin blenny).

 

[JPK_Esquire]

So after way too much reading and going back and forth I forget how many times, I finally settled on two 1.5” bulkheads and two 1.25” bulkheads. The overflow is an internal center overflow, and I’m going to be going with bean animal. The two 1.5” bulkheads will be the primary (full siphon) and secondary/open drains. The two 1.25” bulkheads are going to serve as the emergency drain and return. I plan to split the return via lockline and go out each side of the overflow.

UPDATE: Planet Aquariums doesn't drill 1.25' bulkheads. So the it ended up being two 1.5" bulkheads and two 1" bulkheads. 4-6 weeks and waiting.

 

[samson78945]

Looking forward to this build!

 

[italquam]

Check out Turbos Aquatics algae scrubbers , mine runs dead silent on my tank . I had Geo's Reef build a Custom sump with a area for the scrubber. I sent him my scrubber and he built a custom mount as well as manifold off the return pump. Serdar at Geo's Reef is excellent to work with.

 

[italquam]

I am for sand , gives it a natural look and some fish will require a sand bottom , so definitely think that out ahead of time.

 

[JoshH]

UPDATE: Planet Aquariums doesn't drill 1.25' bulkheads. So the it ended up being two 1.5" bulkheads and two 1" bulkheads. 4-6 weeks and waiting.

When you do plumb the drain I would make sure you're emergency drain is one of the 1.5" pipes. Always the best when your emergency drain can handle atleast as much as the primary

 

[italquam]

This is the scrubber on sump

 

[JMetaxas]

IMO, the 10X flow is a gross oversimplification and not necessary. What you need is decent flow through the Chaeto in your sump. I'm confident half that is fine.

 

[JPK_Esquire]

Rock came today. Below is the first attempt at an aquascape. I don’t hate it, but it’s far from done. Good thing i have 4-6 weeks to work and rework it.

Looking for sincere honest critique, both aesthetic and practical (I.e., that’ll be hard to do flow or you’ll have a hard time cleaning this or that). I know need to bring some of the arches back towards the center and intersection points, but my concern is real estate. Do these arch like scapes provide enough real estate for an SPS-dominant (acro) tank?

 

[rds85]

UPDATE: Planet Aquariums doesn't drill 1.25' bulkheads. So the it ended up being two 1.5" bulkheads and two 1" bulkheads. 4-6 weeks and waiting.

From my current build and talking with several manufacturers 1 1/4" is almost be discontinued. Bulkheads of that size are no longer being produced same with some of the none standard plumbing fittings.

Sand is personal preference IMO. If you like the look of it, get it and maintain it from day 1. If you think you will slack on the maintenance for sand don't expect to stay "pretty" forever. Bare bottoms also have maintenance requirements (you can get detritus build up in areas) If you want SPS and sand just get a large grain size. Either way I think it is personal preference.

 

[JPK_Esquire]

Many thanks! I’m leaning towards sand and larger grain. I’m reading good things about the Tropic Eden Reef Flakes and maybe missing with some of their Meso Flakes. Also considering CaribSea Special Grade.

 

[S2G]

Rock work looks great imo.

Sand wise that's a preference thing, but I personally think sand looks way better than bare.

Fuge vs scrubber. I would of started with a fuge since you have an area for it, but since you want a kessil h380 thats scrubber money right there. A properly designed scrubber is quiet and very clean aesthetically. An ats is way more efficient than fuge at a fraction of the size. There's a guy here selling a used CW-50 scrubber that would be perfect and it's priced very nicely. A fuge may be more your style though and its very low maintenance.

Ive had your same skimmer in my old 180 with a higher flow sump and it worked great. Chaeto likes flow ime and i run a lot of rock in my sump so that's my reasoning for higher flow. It's really not that critical as long as you dont have class 5 rapids.