Need help with new saltwater tank (lowering nitrate and increasing ph)

Riley Pasha

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This is my first saltwater tank and any information you guys can give my is appreciated.

Specs:

-29 Gallon (picture of tank: http://imgur.com/a/A7NXV)

-1 600GPD Powerhead (aimed slightly down)

-84 Degrees Fahrenheit (in process of lowering this to 80)

-1.022 Gravity / 30 PPT

-Around 7.4 pH

-0 to 0.25 ammonia

-0 Nitrite

-Around 10 ppm Nitrate

Picture Of Tests: http://imgur.com/a/iV7ST

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-2 Ocellaris Clownfish (2 days old, picture: http://imgur.com/a/ViClI)

-1 Cleaner Shrimp (2 days old, picture: http://imgur.com/a/2kuTM)

-6 Hermit Crabs

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As a new salt water tank owner, I am in need of all help and advice. I noticed my ph levels seemed to be a bit low as it is recommended to have an 8+ ph for clownfish. I also noticed that my Nitrate levels might be a bit high as well. I have not checked for Calcium or Magnesium as they did not come with the kit (should I buy one?).

I am not sure how to increase my pH and also lower my Nitrate levels as I think they are a bit off. I also noticed my clownfish have been active at times but spending more time near the bottom of the tank and kinda swimming in place near each other almost. I am kind of worried, should I be? and what course of action should I take for the Nitrate and pH levels? Thanks, you guys are the best.
 

saltyphish

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Best way to remove nitrate is do a water change. Dont worry about ph. Your salt mix should have you in the limits. 8 is a good number but a lot of factors can affect this. Main point is dont chase ph numbers. I dont even test them anymore. My tank when new ran about 7.6-7.8 ph with no issues. Also if you dont have coral or plan on getting coral you dont need to test for mag cal and alk. Those numbers are for reef tanks.
 

saltyphish

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Also clownfish tend to pick a spot in a tank and host it. Mine hosted a powerhead forever before finally moving to a nem. Them being together just means they are paired up. No worries normal clown behavior
 

peterthegamer

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For calcium and magnesium, it depends if you're going to be adding corals or not. Also corals like softies won't rely much on calcium unlike SPS. Also for your nitrate I would suggest a water change.
 
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Riley Pasha

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Best way to remove nitrate is do a water change. Dont worry about ph. Your salt mix should have you in the limits. 8 is a good number but a lot of factors can affect this. Main point is dont chase ph numbers. I dont even test them anymore. My tank when new ran about 7.6-7.8 ph with no issues. Also if you dont have coral or plan on getting coral you dont need to test for mag cal and alk. Those numbers are for reef tanks.
Thank you very much for the speedy reply. Would you say my paremeters and such seem ok for my 2 clownfish. I plan on doing a 20ish% water change tommorow (as it is 11:36 PM and 15% every week).

Thank you very much.
 
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Riley Pasha

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Also clownfish tend to pick a spot in a tank and host it. Mine hosted a powerhead forever before finally moving to a nem. Them being together just means they are paired up. No worries normal clown behavior
Oh good that makes me feel better. Wierd thing is they seemed to be hosting on a diff side earlier and now they picked this one. Anyway, do you think the parameters seem ok?

Thank you for the help.
 
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Riley Pasha

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For calcium and magnesium, it depends if you're going to be adding corals or not. Also corals like softies won't rely much on calcium unlike SPS. Also for your nitrate I would suggest a water change.
What percent water change if you wouldn't mind me asking?
 

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Yes everything looks good param wise. Nitrates really arent high simple water changes and reduced feeding can help with that. Also your sg is 1.022. I would bump it up to 1.025. That might also increase ph at the same time. Most salt mixes when mixed per manufacturers instructions will give correct parameters. Provided 0 tds rodi water is used
 

peterthegamer

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I would suggest around 20-25%, each change. Make sure to use RODI and I suggest you add Prime, which helps it as well.
 

peterthegamer

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Also if you want to get another test kit, then a phosphate kit would be nice.
 
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Riley Pasha

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I would suggest around 20-25%, each change. Make sure to use RODI and I suggest you add Prime, which helps it as well.
Unfortunately I don't have access to RODI and have to use tap + water conditioner. Is there a way to get RODI without getting a RODI system? (Dont exactly have the $120 or so for a system atm). Also this question might sound dumb, but when switching the tank water with much colder water with a water change, couldn't the fish get stressed out? Like when changing 20% with room temperature water with the current 80 degree water?
 

saltyphish

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Most lfs sell ro di water but invest in a tds meter $15-20 to test their water. Some stores are not as good at maintaining their filters.
 

saltyphish

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Getting a rodi system is your best investment. You never know what you are adding to our tank from tapwater. Regular distilled water from store is better than tap but still not as good as rodi
 
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Riley Pasha

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Most lfs sell ro di water but invest in a tds meter $15-20 to test their water. Some stores are not as good at maintaining their filters.
What does lf stand for? Sorry for asking so much, I can't stress enough how amazing you all are, I feel way more comfortable now.
 

peterthegamer

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Unfortunately I don't have access to RODI and have to use tap + water conditioner. Is there a way to get RODI without getting a RODI system? (Dont exactly have the $120 or so for a system atm). Also this question might sound dumb, but when switching the tank water with much colder water with a water change, couldn't the fish get stressed out? Like when changing 20% with room temperature water with the current 80 degree water?
Yes fish will get stressed about the temperature swing. Therefore it's recommended that you use a heater to match the tank's temperature.
 

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Yes temp diff is a problem. You want the temp to match. Dont do water changes with water temps not matching. 1 degree off is no big deal but sounds like your not that close
 
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