Naso tang, Is it fin rotting? Need a help.

[Trueruby]

Just wanna give a small update here, the fishes fins and tail looks super clear today. She started to swim around and eating from rocks crazy. I will keep observing..

 

[Trueruby]

Formalin dips work well, but getting the formalin to use is tricky, and of course, you need to handle it with care. You need full strength formalin, not buffeted formalin. The dose is 150 ppm for 45 minutes with good aeration. Before going down that road I think you should try another freshwater dip in two days and then let me know if you find copepods the second time.
Jay

Hello Jay,
Just took a video of a beauty. Looks fine for me. Here is a link for you
I did not applied the second dip as she was ok.
now it’s time for hoping that she will eat dry foods one day..

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Looks really good - fingers crossed that the issue is resolved!

Jay

 

[Trueruby]

Looks really good - fingers crossed that the issue is resolved!

Jay

Hello Jay,
Unfortunatelly, Have an other issue now.
everything was fine till tonight however, I saw kinda ich on Naso fins, and on body of my scoppo tang. They’re fighting to each other especially after naso got heal. Also, stomach of naso looked empty to me and has smth kimda swollen on side . I’ll add some pictures and videos hope this helps
Video naso ;

Scoppo

Picture;

 

[ApoIsland]

Hello Jay,
Unfortunatelly, Have an other issue now.
everything was fine till tonight however, I saw kinda ich on Naso fins, and on body of my scoppo tang. They’re fighting to each other especially after naso got heal. Also, stomach of naso looked empty to me and has smth kimda swollen on side . I’ll add some pictures and videos hope this helps
Video naso ;

Scoppo

Picture;

The naso looks very thin and malnourished. I would imagine that is what caused the little outbreak of ich. I have had a yellow and a blue tang for the last 7-10 years and they both get ich a couple times a year. They always get over it quickly when I increase feeding and take extra care with the water quality. If your naso is not eating prepared foods though it's in trouble as they have a large appetite.

 

[Trueruby]

The naso looks very thin and malnourished. I would imagine that is what caused the little outbreak of ich. I have had a yellow and a blue tang for the last 7-10 years and they both get ich a couple times a year. They always get over it quickly when I increase feeding and take extra care with the water quality. If your naso is not eating prepared foods though it's in trouble as they have a large appetite.

I also had tangs before as you are saying they usually get rid of them if the water quality is good that I agree. About Naso, I have never been succeed with any Naso eating prepared food so far. She is grazing the rocks all the time however, not even eating nori from nori holder.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hello Jay,
Unfortunatelly, Have an other issue now.
everything was fine till tonight however, I saw kinda ich on Naso fins, and on body of my scoppo tang. They’re fighting to each other especially after naso got heal. Also, stomach of naso looked empty to me and has smth kimda swollen on side . I’ll add some pictures and videos hope this helps
Video naso ;

Scoppo

Picture;

Tough to see if there is ich or not. Look for the classic white salt grain spots on the body and fins.
Not sure what you can do other than try to manage the ich, since you won’t be able to treat your DT.
The naso is a bit thin, try to feed it more often, meaty foods and pellets if you can.
Jay

 

[Trueruby]

Tough to see if there is ich or not. Look for the classic white salt grain spots on the body and fins.
Not sure what you can do other than try to manage the ich, since you won’t be able to treat your DT.
The naso is a bit thin, try to feed it more often, meaty foods and pellets if you can.
Jay

Today I’m sure its an ich issue, scoppo, naso and my naoko fish has it. I will try feed more with garlic oil and fish vitamins. Naso eats only algea which comes off from glasses.. still not willing for nori

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Today I’m sure its an ich issue, scoppo, naso and my naoko fish has it. I will try feed more with garlic oil and fish vitamins. Naso eats only algea which comes off from glasses.. still not willing for nori

It is going to be really tough to manage that in your DT- good luck!
Jay

 

[Trueruby]

It is going to be really tough to manage that in your DT- good luck!
Jay

Hello Jay,
Just wanna give few updates, I have increased the temperature to 82F, started feeding fishes more often with soaked in garlic oil and fish vitamins.
I have realized now most of my fishes have ich.. Same time, I am preparing a QT. on Friday my QT will be ready.
So my plan is to wait until Friday night with vitamins. If nothing will change try to catch and move fishes to QT.
Any suggestions?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hello Jay,
Just wanna give few updates, I have increased the temperature to 82F, started feeding fishes more often with soaked in garlic oil and fish vitamins.
I have realized now most of my fishes have ich.. Same time, I am preparing a QT. on Friday my QT will be ready.
So my plan is to wait until Friday night with vitamins. If nothing will change try to catch and move fishes to QT.
Any suggestions?

Raising the temperature is a mistake, that works for freshwater ich, but with marine it, it just increases the reproduction rate of the parasite, 82 is actually Cryptocaryon’s best temperature.
I’m worried that waiting two more days may leave the fish in pretty dire condition....but if you don’t have other options, fingers crossed!
Jay

 

[Trueruby]

Raising the temperature is a mistake, that works for freshwater ich, but with marine it, it just increases the reproduction rate of the parasite, 82 is actually Cryptocaryon’s best temperature.
I’m worried that waiting two more days may leave the fish in pretty dire condition....but if you don’t have other options, fingers crossed!
Jay

Hello Jay, I would like to give an update and get your opinion. ı set up the QT, since Thursday its been 1 week, the fishes in qt only naso and Naoko’s fairy wrasse. I used only 1 dose of “Nitrofur” which is here in local market. After first day all the ich went away that their points where black after they spilled. Now skin look fine. Naso seems pretty fine and she started to eat dry pellets. Naoko also eats well however, naoko has kinda white skin just behind the head that you can see below in picture and videos.
Another thing I did ich in my DT is that I went to manage way as I could not catch that fishes in DT. I lost 2 fishes 1 was Mccokers fairy wrasse jumped to surf on carpet( idk if its because of ich) 2nd was anthias which was looked weak for a long time of period. Other fishes ( scoppo, ocellaris, canary wrasse, anthias, cardinal, blenny, damsels) almost got rid of all iches. Ocellaris still have few on fins but they eat like pig. I am feeding them with garlic oil and fish vitamins soaked foods.
What I observe lately is that some fishes are twitching. Personally I have never seen before. You may see in naoko’s video as an example


Thanks in advance Jay!

Naoko white skin

Naoko white skin

youtube.com

Naoko twitching

Naoko1

youtube.com

Naso

Naso eat

youtube.com

 

[Hincapiej4]

Unless you qt everything and go fallow in dt, you still have ich. If you have fish in your tank and for a long time you don't see ich then they all of a sudden "get" ich, they've always had ich.

 

[Trueruby]

Unless you qt everything and go fallow in dt, you still have ich. If you have fish in your tank and for a long time you don't see ich then they all of a sudden "get" ich, they've always had ich.

I totally agree with you, I was actually gettin ready to set up for 76 days, however after I saw some people had ich even after 76 days, I decided to manage way. What I am concerned about now is that white skin on naoko and twitching behaviour.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I totally agree with you, I was actually gettin ready to set up for 76 days, however after I saw some people had ich even after 76 days, I decided to manage way. What I am concerned about now is that white skin on naoko and twitching behaviour.

Your wrasse may have two issue: flukes and/or uronema. There is no treatment for uronema, and the spot on your fish's head isn't where I usually see that disease, so we'll have to ignore that for now. If you want to read up on that, I have an article here: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/uronema-red-band-disease-hemdal.788/
For the flukes, if that is the problem, you can dose with Prazipro under good aeration. You would dose once, wait 7 days, do a partial water change and dose again.

Jay

 

[Trueruby]

Your wrasse may have two issue: flukes and/or uronema. There is no treatment for uronema, and the spot on your fish's head isn't where I usually see that disease, so we'll have to ignore that for now. If you want to read up on that, I have an article here: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/uronema-red-band-disease-hemdal.788/
For the flukes, if that is the problem, you can dose with Prazipro under good aeration. You would dose once, wait 7 days, do a partial water change and dose again.

Jay

Hello Jay, grateful for your feedback.

I'am planning to dose praziquantel then. However, I dont have prazipro here. But I found liquid praziquantel that contains 56.4 mg praziquantel per 0.1 ml. Do you know where can I find dosage of praziquantel per liters? And as far as I understood, I will only dose on first day then wait 7 days. I heard wrasses are sensitive to prazi. What would your advice? it would be really heplful.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hello Jay, grateful for your feedback.

I'am planning to dose praziquantel then. However, I dont have prazipro here. But I found liquid praziquantel that contains 56.4 mg praziquantel per 0.1 ml. Do you know where can I find dosage of praziquantel per liters? And as far as I understood, I will only dose on first day then wait 7 days. I heard wrasses are sensitive to prazi. What would your advice? it would be really heplful.

Wrasses are not sensitive to praziquantel, but these treatments can deplete oxygen, and wrasses don’t appreciate that.
I can’t advise you about your product, as it may be an oral formulation and the other materials in it may not be compatible with aquariums.
Prazi is typically dosed at 2.2 to 2.5 mg/l - but that is for pure product. The formula is: 2.2 times US gallons divided by 266 to get grams of medication. So for example, to dose a 100 gallon tank, 2.2 times 100 divided by 266 equals 0.83 grams.
Jay

 

[Trueruby]

Hello Jay,
I would like to give an update, lately my soft corals are in trouble.
so after I dosed prazi, my soft corals were laying on the sand they all did shrink. I was running the skimmer without cup so that provide more oxygen. Non of my either feathers or fishes had bad affect all was ok.
After dosing i had a bacterial bloom.
24 hour later I add carbon to my reactor to remove med.
In 3rd day bloom was quite much. Then I added skimmer cup and i removed almost all in 2-3 days. Water look clear now. However, my softies, xenia , zoas, polyps some leather corals are super shrinking and laying on the sand. Some zoas lost colour already. I renewed the carbon yesterday.
my nitrate decreased from 5 ppm to 1 ppm.
phospate was fluctuating i gues because of bacterial bloom. It went 0.01 ppm while bloom but now its 0.25 ppm.
i am planning %20-25 water change.
any help I would appreciate.

Wrasses are not sensitive to praziquantel, but these treatments can deplete oxygen, and wrasses don’t appreciate that.
I can’t advise you about your product, as it may be an oral formulation and the other materials in it may not be compatible with aquariums.
Prazi is typically dosed at 2.2 to 2.5 mg/l - but that is for pure product. The formula is: 2.2 times US gallons divided by 266 to get grams of medication. So for example, to dose a 100 gallon tank, 2.2 times 100 divided by 266 equals 0.83 grams.
Jay

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Which praziquantel product did you end up using? It is the binder/solvent that causes most of the bacterial blooms. I used to pre dissolve prazi in ethanol, but stopped doing that because the blooms were so bad.
You may need to do a series of 25% water changes daily in order to reduce the nutrients causing the bloom.

Jay

 

[Trueruby]

Which praziquantel product did you end up using? It is the binder/solvent that causes most of the bacterial blooms. I used to pre dissolve prazi in ethanol, but stopped doing that because the blooms were so bad.
You may need to do a series of 25% water changes daily in order to reduce the nutrients causing the bloom.

Jay

Hello Jay,
Prazi was disolved in ethanol.
bloom is stopped now. I will do water changes however, I dont know what to do about corals behaviour. My nitrate was 1 ppm. Doing water changes will decrease it more I guess