Nicklepickle
Community Member
This is my modified AIO Kent bioreef 94 litre. Running ten months now and things are going great. I add tmc all for reef, ab+ and live 8 species Phyto daily. I also dose iodine, manganese and occasionally magnesium. The fish are fed with a mixture of frozen brine and mysis shrimp and lobster eggs and live copepods with some micro pellets.
The tank was started with the standard led lights which I later upgraded. I have always run gfo, initially in a bag in the rear compartment. I added a media reactor to improve the efficiency of phosphate removal.
My mantras for the tank are good flow, maximum biodiversity, good tuneable lighting and big in/big out (nutrients).
Water parameters:
35ppt
8-8.2 ph
8-9 dkh
420-465 Ca
1250-1480 mg
0.015-0.03 po4
0.1-0.2 no3
Temp. 26.3 - 27c 79.3 - 80.6 F
Equipment:
Kent bioreef 94 ltr all in one tank
titanium heater and digital display/controller
1 tunze 9004 skimmer with co2 scrubber
2 jebao wave maker pumps
1000l/hr 240v pump in rear compartment
1 jebao 650 ltr/hr pump for reactor
1 af90 media reactor
Lights:
4 tmc aquaray LED bars:
1 fiji blue (near uv high kelvin)
1 reef blue
1 marine white
1 reef white
tmc aquaray 8 way controller
2 30 watt aqua knight spectra:
1 as refugium light (back glass film cut away in part of the rear compartment)
1 mounted as a peak time angled light to reduce shadowing.
1 e38 domestic fitment 18 watt full spectrum LED (eBay coral growth bulb) for peak angled light.
I’m a fan of natural daylight tanks and like my lighting white/blue full spectrum, i wanted the tank to have as much blue/purple as possible to make coral ‘pop’ but still look white with all colours rendered realistically. The lighting may seem like overkill but this was intentional. The side lights are only on for a few hours for the brightest part of the day. I wanted there to be lots of left over power in the aquarays for lots of ramp up and down and because I thought I may end up with some of the units set high with others much lower. The marine white is now on about 79% with the others between 25-45%.
I have done 3 30% water changes since setting up the tank after getting ICP results indicating elevated Cu, Co and Ni. I need to do another ICP test to check this issue is resolved but I’m fairly confident it was the result of corrosion in the led connection under the lid. I plan on doing a 30% water change every 4-6 months going forward.
The tank has a 3x4 inch sponge in the rear compartment which I replace every 2-3 weeks. I harvest Chaeto from the back in varying amounts every 2 weeks, it grows slow because of my low nutrients. Every month or two I create a sediment storm by leaving a 2000 ltr/hr with a filter floss cartridge in for around 4 hours.
Thanks to everyone at reef2reef x
The tank was started with the standard led lights which I later upgraded. I have always run gfo, initially in a bag in the rear compartment. I added a media reactor to improve the efficiency of phosphate removal.
My mantras for the tank are good flow, maximum biodiversity, good tuneable lighting and big in/big out (nutrients).
Water parameters:
35ppt
8-8.2 ph
8-9 dkh
420-465 Ca
1250-1480 mg
0.015-0.03 po4
0.1-0.2 no3
Temp. 26.3 - 27c 79.3 - 80.6 F
Equipment:
Kent bioreef 94 ltr all in one tank
titanium heater and digital display/controller
1 tunze 9004 skimmer with co2 scrubber
2 jebao wave maker pumps
1000l/hr 240v pump in rear compartment
1 jebao 650 ltr/hr pump for reactor
1 af90 media reactor
Lights:
4 tmc aquaray LED bars:
1 fiji blue (near uv high kelvin)
1 reef blue
1 marine white
1 reef white
tmc aquaray 8 way controller
2 30 watt aqua knight spectra:
1 as refugium light (back glass film cut away in part of the rear compartment)
1 mounted as a peak time angled light to reduce shadowing.
1 e38 domestic fitment 18 watt full spectrum LED (eBay coral growth bulb) for peak angled light.
I’m a fan of natural daylight tanks and like my lighting white/blue full spectrum, i wanted the tank to have as much blue/purple as possible to make coral ‘pop’ but still look white with all colours rendered realistically. The lighting may seem like overkill but this was intentional. The side lights are only on for a few hours for the brightest part of the day. I wanted there to be lots of left over power in the aquarays for lots of ramp up and down and because I thought I may end up with some of the units set high with others much lower. The marine white is now on about 79% with the others between 25-45%.
I have done 3 30% water changes since setting up the tank after getting ICP results indicating elevated Cu, Co and Ni. I need to do another ICP test to check this issue is resolved but I’m fairly confident it was the result of corrosion in the led connection under the lid. I plan on doing a 30% water change every 4-6 months going forward.
The tank has a 3x4 inch sponge in the rear compartment which I replace every 2-3 weeks. I harvest Chaeto from the back in varying amounts every 2 weeks, it grows slow because of my low nutrients. Every month or two I create a sediment storm by leaving a 2000 ltr/hr with a filter floss cartridge in for around 4 hours.
Thanks to everyone at reef2reef x
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