My First Saltwater Build.....Waterbox Frag 55.2... This is going to be great

[bluerider098]

All of my corals have graduated from Qt and are ready to go in my Dt. I am having designers block and am looking for opinions on placement.

The tank is going to be predominantly lps with the possibility of a toadstool leather coral at some point, and maybe a few sps.

My light is going to have good par numbers for lps at only 50% so I will be able to turn it up or down if needed. Here are par numbers at 50%.

Here is a few pictures of my display

Front

Left side

Right side

Corals shot

Thanks in advance

 

[James_O]

Dang those frags are juicy! I would definitely try to keep all the hammers together, along with the torches. (Not side by side because I hear they can still kill each other)

I would put the Alveopora near the top.

 

[bluerider098]

Dang those frags are juicy! I would definitely try to keep all the hammers together, along with the torches. (Not side by side because I hear they can still kill each other)

I would put the Alveopora near the top.

Thanks I appreciate the feedback. I will post some pictures in a few days after everyone settled in.

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

Building my control cabinet.... So after I had a finished design I made a drawing showing all important dimensions, and I also did a wood layout for cutting the pieces from a 4x8 sheet (Not all pieces shown, I had some wood lying around for the missing pieces).

So next step was cutting all of the pieces, and screwing everything together. I used pocket holes (Kreg Jig) to attach everything together. Once assembled I used a sander to make all of the seams where the wood came together perfect and a little painters caulk to fix any imperfections in the joints. For the controller wire holes I knew that I was going to use computer desk grommets so I did a layout of all of the holes and drilled them with a drill press before I screwed the panel into the cabinet.

For the door hinges I ordered some stainless steel soft close European soft close hinges. ( SEVGTY Concealed Hinges 2-Packs, Full Overlay 110 Degree European Frameless Hydraulic Stainless Steel Soft Close Hinges for Drawer Window Cupboard Cabinet Door Hinges with Screws - - Amazon.com ) They are almost identical to what came on my Waterbox Stand, mount those I made a jig with all of the hole locations. I put the cup holes in the door first and then attached the hinges. Then with the hinges attached to the door I set the door on the cabinet and transferred the locations to the cabinet. This allowed me to get really good alignment on the doors. Really this step is pretty forgiving as these style of hinges have lots of adjustment to get them lined up correctly.

Here are a couple of pictures of the stand prior to paint.

I had the stand painted because I knew I would never be happy with any paint job that I was capable of. An Amish furniture painting shop was about 30 minutes away so I had them paint it. I took in the door from my Waterbox stand with cabinet so that they could match the paint. They did a great job as it matches my stand perfectly. They gave me the extra paint and it actually said Waterbox Black on it.

Here are a couple of pictures. I will cover the wiring etc. in another post.

would there be a way to get those prints and cut list made for a 24'' wide inside x 24" total depth cabinet? Great work! glad i did the research. fits my needs perfect

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

Building my control cabinet.... So after I had a finished design I made a drawing showing all important dimensions, and I also did a wood layout for cutting the pieces from a 4x8 sheet (Not all pieces shown, I had some wood lying around for the missing pieces).

So next step was cutting all of the pieces, and screwing everything together. I used pocket holes (Kreg Jig) to attach everything together. Once assembled I used a sander to make all of the seams where the wood came together perfect and a little painters caulk to fix any imperfections in the joints. For the controller wire holes I knew that I was going to use computer desk grommets so I did a layout of all of the holes and drilled them with a drill press before I screwed the panel into the cabinet.

For the door hinges I ordered some stainless steel soft close European soft close hinges. ( SEVGTY Concealed Hinges 2-Packs, Full Overlay 110 Degree European Frameless Hydraulic Stainless Steel Soft Close Hinges for Drawer Window Cupboard Cabinet Door Hinges with Screws - - Amazon.com ) They are almost identical to what came on my Waterbox Stand, mount those I made a jig with all of the hole locations. I put the cup holes in the door first and then attached the hinges. Then with the hinges attached to the door I set the door on the cabinet and transferred the locations to the cabinet. This allowed me to get really good alignment on the doors. Really this step is pretty forgiving as these style of hinges have lots of adjustment to get them lined up correctly.

Here are a couple of pictures of the stand prior to paint.

I had the stand painted because I knew I would never be happy with any paint job that I was capable of. An Amish furniture painting shop was about 30 minutes away so I had them paint it. I took in the door from my Waterbox stand with cabinet so that they could match the paint. They did a great job as it matches my stand perfectly. They gave me the extra paint and it actually said Waterbox Black on it.

Here are a couple of pictures. I will cover the wiring etc. in another post.

any other pics of the cabinet build?

 

[bluerider098]

would there be a way to get those prints and cut list made for a 24'' wide inside x 24" total depth cabinet? Great work! glad i did the research. fits my needs perfect

Unfortunately I don't have time to do that right now but your more than welcome to alter the dimensions shown on the print and make it to whatever dimensions you'd like. So for example if your good with the height but want it longer just change the size of all of the boards in the direction of the length by the amount you want.

The cut layout was done manually and was not tied to the cabinet model, so as the design of the cabinet changes that cut sheet would have to be manually altered to reflect the changes.

any other pics of the cabinet build?

I didn't take any pictures of the actual building of the cabinet. At the time in didn't think about it.

Sorry I wasn't much help, but hopefully you can adjust those dimensions to get what you want.

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

Building my control cabinet.... So after I had a finished design I made a drawing showing all important dimensions, and I also did a wood layout for cutting the pieces from a 4x8 sheet (Not all pieces shown, I had some wood lying around for the missing pieces).

So next step was cutting all of the pieces, and screwing everything together. I used pocket holes (Kreg Jig) to attach everything together. Once assembled I used a sander to make all of the seams where the wood came together perfect and a little painters caulk to fix any imperfections in the joints. For the controller wire holes I knew that I was going to use computer desk grommets so I did a layout of all of the holes and drilled them with a drill press before I screwed the panel into the cabinet.

For the door hinges I ordered some stainless steel soft close European soft close hinges. ( SEVGTY Concealed Hinges 2-Packs, Full Overlay 110 Degree European Frameless Hydraulic Stainless Steel Soft Close Hinges for Drawer Window Cupboard Cabinet Door Hinges with Screws - - Amazon.com ) They are almost identical to what came on my Waterbox Stand, mount those I made a jig with all of the hole locations. I put the cup holes in the door first and then attached the hinges. Then with the hinges attached to the door I set the door on the cabinet and transferred the locations to the cabinet. This allowed me to get really good alignment on the doors. Really this step is pretty forgiving as these style of hinges have lots of adjustment to get them lined up correctly.

Here are a couple of pictures of the stand prior to paint.

I had the stand painted because I knew I would never be happy with any paint job that I was capable of. An Amish furniture painting shop was about 30 minutes away so I had them paint it. I took in the door from my Waterbox stand with cabinet so that they could match the paint. They did a great job as it matches my stand perfectly. They gave me the extra paint and it actually said Waterbox Black on it.

Here are a couple of pictures. I will cover the wiring etc. in another post.

what view is the bottom left model depicting on your drawing

 

[bluerider098]

what view is the bottom left model depicting on your drawing

The underside of the cabinet. That view has the doors hidden

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

thanks for the inspiration. this cabinet fit all my needs. i was able to take your prints and adjust the dimensions to my needs, even changed the door swing to the other side. wish i could work fusion 360 to make a set of plans.

 

[bluerider098]

thanks for the inspiration. this cabinet fit all my needs. i was able to take your prints and adjust the dimensions to my needs, even changed the door swing to the other side. wish i could work fusion 360 to make a set of plans.

Sorry I couldn't help, normally I would. Just had a baby and I have 4 children under 4. Momma had a c section so I am running things alone for a few weeks. Busy is an understatement.