My first reef tank is a Crystal Dynamics 250 gallon build.

[Don Lidtke]

A couple of things on this update: First I may have solved the phosphate problem thanks to a BRS video. I was feeding dry food daily, soaked in vitamins, and that apparently was the main connection to my high phosphates. My last test, which was last week, phosphate was 0.11, the I have had since getting fish in the tank.

Second is the tank temperature would often run near 80 degrees so I was running fans on the sump which did help but I was getting dust all over place so I decided to install a chiller. The temperature is much more stable but I haven't seen my electric bill so that might be a real shock.

That leaves checking my PAR and I can use my Seneye for that.

Once the weather warms up a bit more fish will be on the way and my first corals will go into quarantine.

 

[cmaxwell39]

Looking good Don.

How are you maintaining your phosphates??

And I am curious as to your plans for coral QT. Tank set up (size, filtration, lighting, etc) dipping regimen, planned duration of corals stay in QT.

keep the updates coming.

 

[Don Lidtke]

Looking good Don.

How are you maintaining your phosphates??

And I am curious as to your plans for coral QT. Tank set up (size, filtration, lighting, etc) dipping regimen, planned duration of corals stay in QT.

keep the updates coming.

I have cut back on my dry food feeding. I used to feed dry food everyday that was soaked in vitamins but now I am more closely monitoring phosphate to determine when I can occasionally use dry food again.

My quarantine tanks, one for fish the other for coral, are 25 gallon Fusion Lagoon Aquarium that include a Smart UV 18 Watt - Pentair Aquatics, Kessil A360W-E Tuna Blue LED Aquarium Light - Wide Angle, Apex Classic Controller and dual BRS reactors (one runs 1 micron filter and the other carbon/gfo).

I am going to use Coral Rx and ME Coral Dip Wash Off. I have read the quarantine should be a minimum 70 days.

 

[Buffalou]

Love my CDA tank they do quality tanks, what a set up great build, nicely done my friend!

 

[Don Lidtke]

I have an order in for fish from TSM which should be ready on 29 March 2021. The order includes Lyretail Anthias 4x, a Coral Beauty Angelfish, Captive Bred Biota and Purple Firefish 2x.

I am also looking at getting some Zoanthids for my first corals. I have some concerns about leathers because of the chemical warfare they engage in. I don’t want to run carbon because of my Yellow Tang and the possibility of lateral line. Also looking into some mushrooms.

 

[Janci]

Monthly tank check!!!
How are the QT fish doing and did you get some corals in the tank now?
I am wondering how you like the Kessils?? I consider them for my new set up, in combination with T5's.

 

[dca22anderson]

How goes the tank buddy?

 

[Don Lidtke]

Monthly tank check!!!
How are the QT fish doing and did you get some corals in the tank now?
I am wondering how you like the Kessils?? I consider them for my new set up, in combination with T5's.

My last two fish orders were from TSM so I have had any fish in my QT. There has been zero trouble with the fish from TSM. The only issue is trying to get the fish I am looking for. So far I have been able but I am looking for fish that I haven't seen on the TSM site.

I still haven't decided on my first set of corals. I am doing more research on what I should start with.

I am very happy with the Kessils! One of the tasks I need to do is get some PAR test with my Seneye to get how well my lighting is set.

 

[Don Lidtke]

How goes the tank buddy?

I have my chemistry pretty well under control, except that my nitrate is 0 so I am not sure how to get that up a bit.

 

[Don Lidtke]

I put together a document, in a 3 ring binder, of all the items currently in my tank. When we have visitors I give them the binder to look at. That beings up lots of interesting questions.

The Yellowtail Damselfish is extremely hardy and gorgeously colored. In fact, Chrysiptera parasema is considered by many aquarists, both beginning and advanced, to be the ultimate damselfish. This is partly because its jewel-blue body is contrasted by an energizing yellow tail. This color combination looks stunning against any backdrop of corals and live rock. But what pleases aquarists most is that the Yellowtail Damsel is less aggressive and does not need as large of an aquarium as other Damsels.

Native to the reefs of the Indo-Pacific, this member of the Pomacentridae family prefers multiple hiding places and peaceful tank mates. Though most Yellowtail Damselfish will ignore other fish, invertebrates, or corals, some may be territorial towards its own kind or similar-sized fish. The Yellowtail Damsel is best kept in small groups of odd numbered fish in suitably sized systems.

Also known as the Yellowtail Blue Damselfish or Yellowtail Demoiselle, and sometimes confused with the Azure Damselfish, C. parasema feeds on zooplankton and algae in the aquarium. For best care, it should also be fed a varied diet of meaty foods, such as mysis and vitamin-enriched shrimp. It is best to feed several small meals throughout the day.

Yellowtail Damsels have been bred in captivity. Though difficult to sex, males are usually larger and more slender and become aggressive towards females when ready to mate. However, the male Yellowtail Damsel is ultimately responsible for the care and guardianship of the eggs and will become very territorial while watching over his brood.

The Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp, also known as the Caribbean Boxing Shrimp, has a yellow body and legs, while the chelae and abdomen have red and sometimes white and red bands. Members of the Stenopodidae are called "Boxing Shrimp" because of the large pinchers on their third set of legs. They often hold these pinchers erect, giving the appearance of a boxer ready to fight.

Sufficient room should be provided in the tank to allow the Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp to move with its long antennae. The Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp must be kept singly, or as a true mated pair, being intolerant of others of the same species. It may also harass other smaller shrimp of different species. It is relatively hardy, but must be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock. It is intolerant of high nitrates or copper levels, but iodine levels in the water must be correct to promote proper molting.

Breeding the Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp is usually not successful. Larvae are generally destroyed by filtration and skimming.

In the wild, the Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp feeds on parasites, dead tissue removed from fish, and other tiny organisms. In the home aquarium, it will accept most flaked and frozen foods, plankton, and meaty items. Banded Coral Shrimp are also effective bristle worm hunters in the reef aquarium, helping to keep the population of these pests under control.

LiveAquaria® is proud to offer captive-bred Yellow Tangs to conscientious marine aquarium hobbyists seeking captive-bred and aquacultured specimens. LiveAquaria procured these long anticipated, captive-bred gems from Biota Aquariums who partnered with the Oceanic Institute of Hawaii where Yellow Tangs are bred and raised in captivity. The R&D involved in making this possible was formerly supported by numerous partners including NOAA, USDA, and Rising Tide Conservation.

The Yellow Tang is, for many aquarists, an iconic fish for the home saltwater aquarium. With its oval-shaped body, vibrant yellow coloration, and lively personality, Zebrasoma flavescens brightens any marine system with color and activity. The Yellow Tang is an active swimmer that will glide throughout your aquarium in near constant motion, acting as an aquarium tour guide of sorts to any onlooker who follows its meandering swim path.
The Yellow Tang's natural range is widespread throughout the Central and West Pacific Ocean with populations primarily found in Hawaii and south through the Marshall Islands, Micronesia, and further west to the Philippines. As such, Zebrasoma flavescens has many common names and is also known as the Citrus Tang (Guam), Yellow Sailfin Tang, or Yellow Surgeonfish.

For best care, the Yellow Tang should be housed in an established, well-filtered aquarium of at least 100 gallons. To best recreate a natural reef environment for your Yellow Tang, aquascape generously with live rock but be sure to arrange your reef aquarium landscape so there are open areas with ample room to swim. Consider enhancing water movement for your Yellow Tang by employing powerheads or wavemakers. Like other Tangs, this member of the Acanthuridae family demonstrates territorial aggression towards its own species, or Tangs in general. Therefore, it is best to keep just one
Yellow Tang per aquarium, unless multiple Yellow Tangs are introduced simultaneously into a very large system.

Although the Yellow Tang will eat meaty foods it is important the Yellow Tang is offered plenty of marine-based seaweed and algae. This will strengthen its immune system, reduce aggression and improve overall health. Offer dried seaweed, or Nori by way of veggie clip along with Spirulina or algae pellets.

The ORA® Captive-Bred Orchid Dottyback, also known as the Fridman's Dottyback, or Fridman's Pseudochromis is an excellent addition to most reef tanks. This gorgeous lavender colored fish has a wonderful personality in the aquarium and will surely become the aquarium favorite. The Orchid Dottybacks are found only in the Red Sea. They can be found in colonies near ledges, where they can dart in and out to feed on the passing zooplankton.

A 30 gallon or larger aquarium with numerous hiding places should be provided. It will tend to swim in the open after it has become acclimated to its new environment. It may occasionally chase smaller fish but will defend its hiding places from intruders. It will prey on pests such as small mantis shrimp and bristleworms, making this fish ideal for the reef aquarium. If more than one Pseudochromis will be maintained together in the aquarium, it is important to add them at the same time.

The ORA Captive-Bred Orchid Dottyback should be fed a varied diet consisting of foods specifically designed for carnivores. If kept in a reef aquarium, the ORA Captive-Bred Orchid Dottyback should be fed once per day.

The ORA® Captive-Bred Neon Blue Goby is known for its gorgeous electric blue stripes. The head and sleek body of the Neon Goby are dark blue with a striking horizontal, light-blue stripe on each side of the body. These signature stripes begin above the eyes and run the entire length of the body. The Neon Goby is a very hardy fish and because of its small size, it makes a great addition to smaller nano reef aquariums.

The Neon Blue Goby should be housed in a 10 gallon or larger aquarium. The ORA Captive-Bred Neon Goby can be territorial and demonstrate aggression towards its own kind unless they are a mated pair. It is common for the Neon Goby to spawn in an aquarium, laying its eggs in a crevice or empty shell.

In the wild, a portion of a Neon Blue Goby's natural diet consists of parasites picked off larger reef fish. The ORA Captive-Bred Neon Blue Goby should be fed a varied diet consisting of foods specifically designed for carnivores. If kept in a reef aquarium, the ORA Captive-Bred Neon Blue Goby should be fed once per day.

The Astraea Turbo Snail has an attractive shell and a ravenous appetite for algae. Unlike many bottom dwellers that are dressed in drab colors to better camouflage themselves against the sand bottoms, Astraea tecta boasts a pyramid-shape shell with beautiful, olive green coloration. Since some individuals have projections on the shell that give it a star-like outline, the Astraea Turbo is also known as the Astraea Star Snail or Astraea Conehead Snail.

Though interesting to observe in your home aquarium, the Astraea Turbo Snail serves a greater function of cleaning algae-covered live rock. It is very adept at keeping your aquarium clean. In fact, this small herbivore prefers to feed on nuisance hair algae, as well as cyanobacteria and diatoms. Some aquarists also report that the Astraea Turbo Snail actually consumes the entire hair algae structure, which helps prevent immediate further algae growth.

The Astraea Turbo Snail prefers well-established aquariums with ample hiding places and sufficient room to roam. In addition to eating algae off of your live rock, this member of the Astraeinae family will also clean your aquarium glass. However, the Astraea Turbo Snail is not known to be climbers like other smaller-shelled snail species. Care needs to be taken to observe the daily activities of this hungry snail since it has difficulty righting itself if it falls or is knocked upside down.

Like other invertebrates, the Astraea Turbo Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and will not tolerate copper-based medications. The Astraea Turbo Snail requires gradual acclimation preferably utilizing the drip acclimation method over the course of several hours, since it cannot tolerate even minute changes in water parameters. If sufficient food levels are not present, supplement the diet with blanched spinach or lettuce and vegetable-based tablet foods.

The Banded Trochus Snail is prized by marine aquarists of all experience levels for numerous reasons. Like other members of the Trochidae family, the Banded Trochus is easy to care for and very adept at working as your aquarium's cleanup crew. The Banded Trochus Snail normally has a black foot that is an off white/tan color on the underside of the foot. It boasts a pale gray, top- or pyramid-shaped shell. Thanks to the maroon stripes or bands on its shell, the Banded Trochus Snail adds a unique flair to any marine system.

Also known as the Trochus, Turban or Top Shell, or Turban Snail, this species of the Trochus genus is the true Banded Trochus Snail from Indonesia. Perhaps what many aquarists appreciate the most is the ease with which Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed in the home aquarium. It reproduces sexually by releasing gametes into the water column. The gametes appear as a cloudy, white substance. Breeding activity is usually sparked by changes in lighting or water conditions. After the gametes join, they develop into free-swimming larvae that eventually settle into your aquarium substrate and develop into mature snails over a period of a few months.

The Banded Trochus Snail is well suited for reef aquariums. As a general rule, you can keep one snail for every two to three gallons of aquarium water. The Banded Trochus Snail is very peaceful and because of its shell shape, it is not easily eaten by crabs. Unlike its close relative, the Tectus Snail, the Banded Trochus Snail can right itself when knocked over.

The Banded Trochus Snail does best in a well-established aquarium with ample hiding places and room to forage. It naturally feeds on algae, cyanobacteria, and diatoms amongst your live rock, substrate, and aquarium glass. The Banded Trochus is also an effective film algae eater. However, they only passively graze on other nuisance algae, such as hair algae.

Like other invertebrates, Trochus sp. is sensitive to high nitrate levels and intolerant of copper-based medications. It requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method. If food levels are insufficient in your aquarium, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. Though most Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed easily, there are no distinguishing characteristics between males and females.

The Shortspine Urchin, or Rock Burrowing Urchin, has an oval to round black body covered with hundreds of uniform, reddish-orange spines. Typically found in the back reef, this night-dwelling algae cleaner is known to burrow small niches in carbonatic rocks (dead corals) to hide.

The Shortspine Urchin requires ample hiding places and sufficient room in which to forage in the home aquarium. It generally hides in caves during the day, though it may make a burrow in thick substrates. At night, it comes out to graze on algae, moving about by its suctorial podia that are aligned in five doubled rows.

The aquarium should include large amounts of live rock on which it can graze. Rock formations need to be stable and able to withstand the burrowing movement of the Urchin wedging itself in crevices.

Shortspine Urchins are generally solitary, but will tolerate others of its own kind. It is sensitive to high levels of copper-based medications and will not tolerate high nitrates. Poor water quality will cause it to lose its spines.

If there is insufficient algae for it to graze on, the diet should be supplemented with dried seaweed.

The Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis is easy to care for, beautiful, and peaceful. This member of the Pomacentridae family is most recognizable by its gorgeous light aqua dorsal side that slowly fades into a majestic iridescent green belly. Juveniles will lack the black blotch at the base of the pectoral fin often confusing the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis with the Chromis viridis. Once the Black-axil Chromis begins to mature the black blotch will appear. The Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis is desirable not only for its beauty, but also for its peaceful demeanor (despite its designation as a true damselfish) and ability to be kept with almost all other community fish, invertebrates, and corals.

Native to reefs ranging from mid-depth to shallow lagoons of the Indo-Pacific and South Pacific, ranging from the Ryukyu Islands of Japan down to the western parts of Australia. It can also be seen around most of the Oceania islands with the exception of Hawaii and the Pitcairn Islands. Wild specimens prefer to school in large shoals in clear lagoons, passages and seaward reef slopes. In the wild preferring to swim amongst branching corals like Acropora. In the home aquarium, the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis does best in similar environments and will actively swim at all levels of the aquarium water column. In fact, small schools of the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis add a dazzling and dramatic shimmer of beauty to almost any larger, well-established reef system.

Overall, the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis is very hardy and can live between 8 to 15 years in aquariums with excellent water quality. For best care, feed several times throughout the day with a varied diet of meaty foods, herbivore flakes, and frozen preparations. Vitamin-enriched foods may also help to preserve body colorations.

Some aquarists have successfully bred the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis in the home aquarium. Interestingly, the body color of mature males, ready to nest, changes to a muted yellow color. However, breeding success requires perfect water parameters in only the largest of non-predatory aquarium systems.

The ORA® Captive-Bred Pajama Cardinalfish is a rainbow of playful colors. It has a greenish-yellow face, bright orange eyes, and a silver-based body dressed with a bold black scalar margin and a posterior dotted with orange polka-dots. Though its bold coloration may stand out, Sphaeramia nematoptera has a peaceful nature that lets it blend perfectly into any community saltwater aquarium.

For the best care, the Pajama Cardinalfish should be kept in small schools in suitably sized aquariums of at least 30 gallons. Because the Spotted Cardinalfish is a slow and methodical swimmer, it should be housed with peaceful tankmates and offered a plethora of hiding places amongst rockwork or plants. Most Pajama Cardinalfish will tend to hide in sea grass or other plants. Some may also camouflage themselves against long spined sea urchins.

Like many other schooling fish, the Pajama Cardinalfish will form a strict hierarchy when kept in small groups within the aquarium. However, unlike some social fish, this member of the Apogonidae family does not use aggression to exert dominance over other cardinalfish.

The ORA Captive-Bred Pajama Cardinalfish should be fed a varied diet consisting of foods specifically designed for carnivores. If kept in a reef aquarium, the ORA Captive-Bred Pajama Cardinalfish should be fed once per day.

The Royal Gramma Basslet brings a burst of color to any saltwater aquarium. It has a bright purple to violet colored anterior contrasted by a vibrant yellow posterior. Coveted for both its unique color pattern and relatively small adult size, Gramma loreto is a great beginner fish that is well suited for small nano reef systems.

Native to the deep-water reefs of the Caribbean, this member of the Grammidae family prefers extensive rockwork caves in which to hide and somewhat subdued lighting. Since it demonstrates territorial aggression towards its own kind, the Royal Gramma Basslet should be housed singly. However, most Royal Gramma Basslets are peaceful towards tankmates of similar size and temperament.

For the best care, keep the Royal Gramma Basslet in reef systems of at least 30 gallons. Since it is a carnivore, feed a varied diet of meaty fare, including brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and quality frozen preparations.

The Bicolor Blenny is also known as the Two-colored Blenny. The Bicolor is so-named because the anterior half is blue to dull brown, and the posterior half is dull orange. Males are generally larger than females and experience a succession of color changes, including blue, when breeding. These Blennies exhibit great personality in the aquarium.

Generally found amid crevices and rocks on the bottom of its environment, the Bicolor Blenny needs a tank of at least 30 gallons with scattered rocks for perching and hiding.

These fishes are normally peaceful tank members, but have been known to pick at other blennies, smaller gobies and dartfish. They normally make a good addition to reef aquariums, but use caution in smaller set ups, or with smaller fleshy corals, as they have been known to pick at the mantles of clams, and at fleshy large polyp stony corals when underfed. In larger reef aquariums they rarely do damage to these corals or clams.

The diet of the Bicolor Blenny should include vegetable matter, including frozen and dried foods containing marine and blue-green algae. It will also feed on (and help control) algae growing in the aquarium.

The Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse, also known as the Rosy-scales Fairy Wrasse, originates from the waters surrounding the Maldives islands. The Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse is a small colorful wrasse with the front part of the body being red in coloration with the remainder being yellow. As the fish matures, the scales toward the front of the fish develop dark edges. The color of the female is subdued when comparing it to the brilliance of the male. The male during courting will turn almost white on the sides in an attempt to persuade its mate. Colors may vary depending on the fish's mood.

The Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse is a very peaceful, active fish that will bring both color and activity to a fish-only or reef aquarium of 70 gallons or larger. They will not bother any corals or invertebrates making them a perfect fish for the reef aquarium. These wrasses like to jump, so a tight fitting canopy is recommended.

The Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse diet should include vitamin enriched frozen mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched frozen brine shrimp, and other meaty foods along with a high quality marine flake and marine pellet food.

Biota Captive-Bred Coral Beauty Angelfish are spawned and reared at Biota Marine Life Nursery in Palau. These fishes are also known as the Twospined or Dusky Angelfish, and range from the Central and South Pacific, to the Western Pacific Ocean, and throughout the Indian Ocean. The body and head are a deep royal blue, highlighted with an iridescent orange to yellow.

The Biota Coral Beauty Angelfish are one of the easiest angels to care for and have a unique advantage over wild-harvested species. They are hardier and more accustomed to conditions found in home aquariums. Therefore, it makes an excellent choice for novices and seasoned aquarists alike.

It requires a 70 gallon or larger tank with lots of hiding places and rock for grazing. Not a good reef dweller, the Coral Beauty Angelfish is prone to nip at stony and soft corals (sessile invertebrates).

The diet of the Coral Beauty Angelfish should consist of Spirulina, marine algae, high-quality angelfish preparations, mysis or frozen shrimp, and other quality meaty foods.

The Purple Firefish, also known as the Decorated Firefish, Purple Dartfish, Decorated Dartfish, or Flame Firefish, was first discovered in the Indo-west-Pacific Ocean in 1973 by Randall and Allen. The colorful body base is varied degrees of yellow to white, and deep shades of purple which begin at the head and ends with maroon-tipped fins.

It requires a 20 gallon or larger aquarium with plenty of loose coral rubble as part of the aquascape, and a tight-fitting lid to prevent it from jumping out of the tank. It will rarely become aggressive towards other fish, but is territorial, and will fight with its own kind unless they are a mated pair.

The Purple Firefish will feed mostly on prey suspended in the water column, but will pick food off the substrate. Its varied diet should consist of chopped or shaved seafood, frozen food preparations for carnivores, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, and mysis shrimp. The vibrant coloring will fade if not fed a vitamin-enriched diet.

Female Male

The Lyretail Anthias is the social butterfly of marine aquariums. This eye-catching fish is incredibly active and helps draw out shier fish that share the aquarium. The Lyretail Anthias is also known as the Scalefin and the males have bright red coloration of varying hues while the female Lyretail Anthias tends to be more orange in coloration.

The Lyretail Anthias does best when kept in a group and housed in a species-specific aquarium of at least 125 gallons in size. Male Lyretail Anthias are best kept alone or with several females. Though the Lyretail Anthias generally occupy the middle of the aquarium, it appreciates the availability of several hiding places.

Anthias species all share the trait of being hermaphroditic. If a dominant male perishes, the largest female of the group will often develop into a male to take his place.

Once acclimated to a new aquarium, anthias do best when fed a varied diet of frozen mysis shrimp, enriched frozen brine shrimp, and over time may eat high-quality flake foods offered in small quantities throughout the day. An attached refugium cultivating copepods and amphipods provides a steady supply of nutritious live food sure to keep this active planktivore content.

The ORA® Ocellaris Clownfish may be one of the aquarium industry's most popular marine fish. Its beautiful orange body dressed with white bands outlined in black instantly distinguishes the Ocellaris Clownfish. The Ocellaris Misbar has broken bars or bars that do not connect around the entire body. The Extreme Misbars have very few bars and could be only on one side of the fish's body. This member of the Pomacentridae family is an excellent addition to almost any saltwater aquarium system. What makes this specific variety even more appealing to aquarists is the fact that each Ocellaris Clownfish is captive-bred to help protect the fragile reef environments of the world.

The Captive-Bred ORA Ocellaris Clownfish has other unique advantages over wild-harvested species. For one, the Captive-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish is very hardy and more accustomed to conditions found in home aquariums. Therefore, it makes a great choice for novices and seasoned aquarists alike. The Captive-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish can also be kept with a variety of other captive-bred clownfish, if introduced into the aquarium at the same time.

The Captive-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish is also easy to breed in the home aquarium. The females will be the largest of the pair and the two fish will usually stay close to each other in the aquarium. The Captive-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish is an egg layer and will deposit the eggs on a flat surface and defend the eggs from other tankmates. The eggs will normally hatch in 6-11 days depending on the water temperature. The fry must be reared in a separate aquarium on a diet of rotifers followed by baby brine shrimp.

This Clownfish is an aggressive eater. It will accept most meaty foods and frozen herbivore preparations.

TO BE ADDED

The Blue Chromis is a very peaceful and active fish from the Caribbean. These fish reside in the upper part of the aquarium and will help bring out more shy species that normally hide. A shoaling fish, Blue Chromis should be maintained together in a group, and make a bright addition to the reef or fish only aquarium that is 30 gallons or larger. The Blue Chromis feeds on a variety of meaty items, herbivore preparations, and flaked food.

The diet should be varied and consist of meaty items, herbivore flakes, and frozen preparations. Using vitamin-enriched foods may help to preserve the bright color.

The Kaudern's Cardinal, also known as the Banggai Cardinalfish or Longfin Cardinalfish, is a very attractive fish with a simple yet sophisticated color scheme and marking. Its overall body coloration is a shimmering silver, highlighted with pearly white spots. Bold, black stripes along the body accentuate the long fins to elegant effect. LiveAquaria proudly offers captive bred Kaudern's Cardinalfish bred and reared in Indonesia and Asia that are hardier than their wild harvested counterparts.

House the Banggai Cardinalfish in a well-filtered 30 gallon or larger aquarium aquascape with a generous amount of live rock. Carefully arrange the aquarium landscape to create plenty of caves, overhangs, and crevices as well as an open area for swimming. House the Kaudern's Cardinal with peaceful tank mates as it is a slow and methodical swimmer. Groups of Banggai Cardinalfish can be kept in relative peace in larger systems with plenty of swimming and hiding spaces. Moderate water movement will also be appreciated by the Banggai Cardinalfish.

The Kaudern's Cardinal is relatively easy to breed in the aquarium setting. Once spawning has occurred, the male carries the eggs in his mouth to protect them.

The Kaudern's Cardinal should be fed small quantities of food several times per day consisting of a well-balanced diet which includes enriched frozen brine shrimp and mysis shrimp, along with a quality marine pellet or flake food.

 

[RobB'z Reef]

I put together a document, in a 3 ring binder, of all the items currently in my tank. When we have visitors I give them the binder to look at. That beings up lots of interesting questions.

The Yellowtail Damselfish is extremely hardy and gorgeously colored. In fact, Chrysiptera parasema is considered by many aquarists, both beginning and advanced, to be the ultimate damselfish. This is partly because its jewel-blue body is contrasted by an energizing yellow tail. This color combination looks stunning against any backdrop of corals and live rock. But what pleases aquarists most is that the Yellowtail Damsel is less aggressive and does not need as large of an aquarium as other Damsels.

Native to the reefs of the Indo-Pacific, this member of the Pomacentridae family prefers multiple hiding places and peaceful tank mates. Though most Yellowtail Damselfish will ignore other fish, invertebrates, or corals, some may be territorial towards its own kind or similar-sized fish. The Yellowtail Damsel is best kept in small groups of odd numbered fish in suitably sized systems.

Also known as the Yellowtail Blue Damselfish or Yellowtail Demoiselle, and sometimes confused with the Azure Damselfish, C. parasema feeds on zooplankton and algae in the aquarium. For best care, it should also be fed a varied diet of meaty foods, such as mysis and vitamin-enriched shrimp. It is best to feed several small meals throughout the day.

Yellowtail Damsels have been bred in captivity. Though difficult to sex, males are usually larger and more slender and become aggressive towards females when ready to mate. However, the male Yellowtail Damsel is ultimately responsible for the care and guardianship of the eggs and will become very territorial while watching over his brood.

The Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp, also known as the Caribbean Boxing Shrimp, has a yellow body and legs, while the chelae and abdomen have red and sometimes white and red bands. Members of the Stenopodidae are called "Boxing Shrimp" because of the large pinchers on their third set of legs. They often hold these pinchers erect, giving the appearance of a boxer ready to fight.

Sufficient room should be provided in the tank to allow the Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp to move with its long antennae. The Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp must be kept singly, or as a true mated pair, being intolerant of others of the same species. It may also harass other smaller shrimp of different species. It is relatively hardy, but must be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock. It is intolerant of high nitrates or copper levels, but iodine levels in the water must be correct to promote proper molting.

Breeding the Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp is usually not successful. Larvae are generally destroyed by filtration and skimming.

In the wild, the Yellow Banded Coral Shrimp feeds on parasites, dead tissue removed from fish, and other tiny organisms. In the home aquarium, it will accept most flaked and frozen foods, plankton, and meaty items. Banded Coral Shrimp are also effective bristle worm hunters in the reef aquarium, helping to keep the population of these pests under control.

LiveAquaria® is proud to offer captive-bred Yellow Tangs to conscientious marine aquarium hobbyists seeking captive-bred and aquacultured specimens. LiveAquaria procured these long anticipated, captive-bred gems from Biota Aquariums who partnered with the Oceanic Institute of Hawaii where Yellow Tangs are bred and raised in captivity. The R&D involved in making this possible was formerly supported by numerous partners including NOAA, USDA, and Rising Tide Conservation.

The Yellow Tang is, for many aquarists, an iconic fish for the home saltwater aquarium. With its oval-shaped body, vibrant yellow coloration, and lively personality, Zebrasoma flavescens brightens any marine system with color and activity. The Yellow Tang is an active swimmer that will glide throughout your aquarium in near constant motion, acting as an aquarium tour guide of sorts to any onlooker who follows its meandering swim path.
The Yellow Tang's natural range is widespread throughout the Central and West Pacific Ocean with populations primarily found in Hawaii and south through the Marshall Islands, Micronesia, and further west to the Philippines. As such, Zebrasoma flavescens has many common names and is also known as the Citrus Tang (Guam), Yellow Sailfin Tang, or Yellow Surgeonfish.

For best care, the Yellow Tang should be housed in an established, well-filtered aquarium of at least 100 gallons. To best recreate a natural reef environment for your Yellow Tang, aquascape generously with live rock but be sure to arrange your reef aquarium landscape so there are open areas with ample room to swim. Consider enhancing water movement for your Yellow Tang by employing powerheads or wavemakers. Like other Tangs, this member of the Acanthuridae family demonstrates territorial aggression towards its own species, or Tangs in general. Therefore, it is best to keep just one
Yellow Tang per aquarium, unless multiple Yellow Tangs are introduced simultaneously into a very large system.

Although the Yellow Tang will eat meaty foods it is important the Yellow Tang is offered plenty of marine-based seaweed and algae. This will strengthen its immune system, reduce aggression and improve overall health. Offer dried seaweed, or Nori by way of veggie clip along with Spirulina or algae pellets.

The ORA® Captive-Bred Orchid Dottyback, also known as the Fridman's Dottyback, or Fridman's Pseudochromis is an excellent addition to most reef tanks. This gorgeous lavender colored fish has a wonderful personality in the aquarium and will surely become the aquarium favorite. The Orchid Dottybacks are found only in the Red Sea. They can be found in colonies near ledges, where they can dart in and out to feed on the passing zooplankton.

A 30 gallon or larger aquarium with numerous hiding places should be provided. It will tend to swim in the open after it has become acclimated to its new environment. It may occasionally chase smaller fish but will defend its hiding places from intruders. It will prey on pests such as small mantis shrimp and bristleworms, making this fish ideal for the reef aquarium. If more than one Pseudochromis will be maintained together in the aquarium, it is important to add them at the same time.

The ORA Captive-Bred Orchid Dottyback should be fed a varied diet consisting of foods specifically designed for carnivores. If kept in a reef aquarium, the ORA Captive-Bred Orchid Dottyback should be fed once per day.

The ORA® Captive-Bred Neon Blue Goby is known for its gorgeous electric blue stripes. The head and sleek body of the Neon Goby are dark blue with a striking horizontal, light-blue stripe on each side of the body. These signature stripes begin above the eyes and run the entire length of the body. The Neon Goby is a very hardy fish and because of its small size, it makes a great addition to smaller nano reef aquariums.

The Neon Blue Goby should be housed in a 10 gallon or larger aquarium. The ORA Captive-Bred Neon Goby can be territorial and demonstrate aggression towards its own kind unless they are a mated pair. It is common for the Neon Goby to spawn in an aquarium, laying its eggs in a crevice or empty shell.

In the wild, a portion of a Neon Blue Goby's natural diet consists of parasites picked off larger reef fish. The ORA Captive-Bred Neon Blue Goby should be fed a varied diet consisting of foods specifically designed for carnivores. If kept in a reef aquarium, the ORA Captive-Bred Neon Blue Goby should be fed once per day.

The Astraea Turbo Snail has an attractive shell and a ravenous appetite for algae. Unlike many bottom dwellers that are dressed in drab colors to better camouflage themselves against the sand bottoms, Astraea tecta boasts a pyramid-shape shell with beautiful, olive green coloration. Since some individuals have projections on the shell that give it a star-like outline, the Astraea Turbo is also known as the Astraea Star Snail or Astraea Conehead Snail.

Though interesting to observe in your home aquarium, the Astraea Turbo Snail serves a greater function of cleaning algae-covered live rock. It is very adept at keeping your aquarium clean. In fact, this small herbivore prefers to feed on nuisance hair algae, as well as cyanobacteria and diatoms. Some aquarists also report that the Astraea Turbo Snail actually consumes the entire hair algae structure, which helps prevent immediate further algae growth.

The Astraea Turbo Snail prefers well-established aquariums with ample hiding places and sufficient room to roam. In addition to eating algae off of your live rock, this member of the Astraeinae family will also clean your aquarium glass. However, the Astraea Turbo Snail is not known to be climbers like other smaller-shelled snail species. Care needs to be taken to observe the daily activities of this hungry snail since it has difficulty righting itself if it falls or is knocked upside down.

Like other invertebrates, the Astraea Turbo Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and will not tolerate copper-based medications. The Astraea Turbo Snail requires gradual acclimation preferably utilizing the drip acclimation method over the course of several hours, since it cannot tolerate even minute changes in water parameters. If sufficient food levels are not present, supplement the diet with blanched spinach or lettuce and vegetable-based tablet foods.

The Banded Trochus Snail is prized by marine aquarists of all experience levels for numerous reasons. Like other members of the Trochidae family, the Banded Trochus is easy to care for and very adept at working as your aquarium's cleanup crew. The Banded Trochus Snail normally has a black foot that is an off white/tan color on the underside of the foot. It boasts a pale gray, top- or pyramid-shaped shell. Thanks to the maroon stripes or bands on its shell, the Banded Trochus Snail adds a unique flair to any marine system.

Also known as the Trochus, Turban or Top Shell, or Turban Snail, this species of the Trochus genus is the true Banded Trochus Snail from Indonesia. Perhaps what many aquarists appreciate the most is the ease with which Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed in the home aquarium. It reproduces sexually by releasing gametes into the water column. The gametes appear as a cloudy, white substance. Breeding activity is usually sparked by changes in lighting or water conditions. After the gametes join, they develop into free-swimming larvae that eventually settle into your aquarium substrate and develop into mature snails over a period of a few months.

The Banded Trochus Snail is well suited for reef aquariums. As a general rule, you can keep one snail for every two to three gallons of aquarium water. The Banded Trochus Snail is very peaceful and because of its shell shape, it is not easily eaten by crabs. Unlike its close relative, the Tectus Snail, the Banded Trochus Snail can right itself when knocked over.

The Banded Trochus Snail does best in a well-established aquarium with ample hiding places and room to forage. It naturally feeds on algae, cyanobacteria, and diatoms amongst your live rock, substrate, and aquarium glass. The Banded Trochus is also an effective film algae eater. However, they only passively graze on other nuisance algae, such as hair algae.

Like other invertebrates, Trochus sp. is sensitive to high nitrate levels and intolerant of copper-based medications. It requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method. If food levels are insufficient in your aquarium, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. Though most Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed easily, there are no distinguishing characteristics between males and females.

The Shortspine Urchin, or Rock Burrowing Urchin, has an oval to round black body covered with hundreds of uniform, reddish-orange spines. Typically found in the back reef, this night-dwelling algae cleaner is known to burrow small niches in carbonatic rocks (dead corals) to hide.

The Shortspine Urchin requires ample hiding places and sufficient room in which to forage in the home aquarium. It generally hides in caves during the day, though it may make a burrow in thick substrates. At night, it comes out to graze on algae, moving about by its suctorial podia that are aligned in five doubled rows.

The aquarium should include large amounts of live rock on which it can graze. Rock formations need to be stable and able to withstand the burrowing movement of the Urchin wedging itself in crevices.

Shortspine Urchins are generally solitary, but will tolerate others of its own kind. It is sensitive to high levels of copper-based medications and will not tolerate high nitrates. Poor water quality will cause it to lose its spines.

If there is insufficient algae for it to graze on, the diet should be supplemented with dried seaweed.

The Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis is easy to care for, beautiful, and peaceful. This member of the Pomacentridae family is most recognizable by its gorgeous light aqua dorsal side that slowly fades into a majestic iridescent green belly. Juveniles will lack the black blotch at the base of the pectoral fin often confusing the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis with the Chromis viridis. Once the Black-axil Chromis begins to mature the black blotch will appear. The Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis is desirable not only for its beauty, but also for its peaceful demeanor (despite its designation as a true damselfish) and ability to be kept with almost all other community fish, invertebrates, and corals.

Native to reefs ranging from mid-depth to shallow lagoons of the Indo-Pacific and South Pacific, ranging from the Ryukyu Islands of Japan down to the western parts of Australia. It can also be seen around most of the Oceania islands with the exception of Hawaii and the Pitcairn Islands. Wild specimens prefer to school in large shoals in clear lagoons, passages and seaward reef slopes. In the wild preferring to swim amongst branching corals like Acropora. In the home aquarium, the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis does best in similar environments and will actively swim at all levels of the aquarium water column. In fact, small schools of the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis add a dazzling and dramatic shimmer of beauty to almost any larger, well-established reef system.

Overall, the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis is very hardy and can live between 8 to 15 years in aquariums with excellent water quality. For best care, feed several times throughout the day with a varied diet of meaty foods, herbivore flakes, and frozen preparations. Vitamin-enriched foods may also help to preserve body colorations.

Some aquarists have successfully bred the Blue/Green Black-axil Chromis in the home aquarium. Interestingly, the body color of mature males, ready to nest, changes to a muted yellow color. However, breeding success requires perfect water parameters in only the largest of non-predatory aquarium systems.

The ORA® Captive-Bred Pajama Cardinalfish is a rainbow of playful colors. It has a greenish-yellow face, bright orange eyes, and a silver-based body dressed with a bold black scalar margin and a posterior dotted with orange polka-dots. Though its bold coloration may stand out, Sphaeramia nematoptera has a peaceful nature that lets it blend perfectly into any community saltwater aquarium.

For the best care, the Pajama Cardinalfish should be kept in small schools in suitably sized aquariums of at least 30 gallons. Because the Spotted Cardinalfish is a slow and methodical swimmer, it should be housed with peaceful tankmates and offered a plethora of hiding places amongst rockwork or plants. Most Pajama Cardinalfish will tend to hide in sea grass or other plants. Some may also camouflage themselves against long spined sea urchins.

Like many other schooling fish, the Pajama Cardinalfish will form a strict hierarchy when kept in small groups within the aquarium. However, unlike some social fish, this member of the Apogonidae family does not use aggression to exert dominance over other cardinalfish.

The ORA Captive-Bred Pajama Cardinalfish should be fed a varied diet consisting of foods specifically designed for carnivores. If kept in a reef aquarium, the ORA Captive-Bred Pajama Cardinalfish should be fed once per day.

The Royal Gramma Basslet brings a burst of color to any saltwater aquarium. It has a bright purple to violet colored anterior contrasted by a vibrant yellow posterior. Coveted for both its unique color pattern and relatively small adult size, Gramma loreto is a great beginner fish that is well suited for small nano reef systems.

Native to the deep-water reefs of the Caribbean, this member of the Grammidae family prefers extensive rockwork caves in which to hide and somewhat subdued lighting. Since it demonstrates territorial aggression towards its own kind, the Royal Gramma Basslet should be housed singly. However, most Royal Gramma Basslets are peaceful towards tankmates of similar size and temperament.

For the best care, keep the Royal Gramma Basslet in reef systems of at least 30 gallons. Since it is a carnivore, feed a varied diet of meaty fare, including brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and quality frozen preparations.

The Bicolor Blenny is also known as the Two-colored Blenny. The Bicolor is so-named because the anterior half is blue to dull brown, and the posterior half is dull orange. Males are generally larger than females and experience a succession of color changes, including blue, when breeding. These Blennies exhibit great personality in the aquarium.

Generally found amid crevices and rocks on the bottom of its environment, the Bicolor Blenny needs a tank of at least 30 gallons with scattered rocks for perching and hiding.

These fishes are normally peaceful tank members, but have been known to pick at other blennies, smaller gobies and dartfish. They normally make a good addition to reef aquariums, but use caution in smaller set ups, or with smaller fleshy corals, as they have been known to pick at the mantles of clams, and at fleshy large polyp stony corals when underfed. In larger reef aquariums they rarely do damage to these corals or clams.

The diet of the Bicolor Blenny should include vegetable matter, including frozen and dried foods containing marine and blue-green algae. It will also feed on (and help control) algae growing in the aquarium.

The Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse, also known as the Rosy-scales Fairy Wrasse, originates from the waters surrounding the Maldives islands. The Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse is a small colorful wrasse with the front part of the body being red in coloration with the remainder being yellow. As the fish matures, the scales toward the front of the fish develop dark edges. The color of the female is subdued when comparing it to the brilliance of the male. The male during courting will turn almost white on the sides in an attempt to persuade its mate. Colors may vary depending on the fish's mood.

The Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse is a very peaceful, active fish that will bring both color and activity to a fish-only or reef aquarium of 70 gallons or larger. They will not bother any corals or invertebrates making them a perfect fish for the reef aquarium. These wrasses like to jump, so a tight fitting canopy is recommended.

The Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse diet should include vitamin enriched frozen mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched frozen brine shrimp, and other meaty foods along with a high quality marine flake and marine pellet food.

Biota Captive-Bred Coral Beauty Angelfish are spawned and reared at Biota Marine Life Nursery in Palau. These fishes are also known as the Twospined or Dusky Angelfish, and range from the Central and South Pacific, to the Western Pacific Ocean, and throughout the Indian Ocean. The body and head are a deep royal blue, highlighted with an iridescent orange to yellow.

The Biota Coral Beauty Angelfish are one of the easiest angels to care for and have a unique advantage over wild-harvested species. They are hardier and more accustomed to conditions found in home aquariums. Therefore, it makes an excellent choice for novices and seasoned aquarists alike.

It requires a 70 gallon or larger tank with lots of hiding places and rock for grazing. Not a good reef dweller, the Coral Beauty Angelfish is prone to nip at stony and soft corals (sessile invertebrates).

The diet of the Coral Beauty Angelfish should consist of Spirulina, marine algae, high-quality angelfish preparations, mysis or frozen shrimp, and other quality meaty foods.

The Purple Firefish, also known as the Decorated Firefish, Purple Dartfish, Decorated Dartfish, or Flame Firefish, was first discovered in the Indo-west-Pacific Ocean in 1973 by Randall and Allen. The colorful body base is varied degrees of yellow to white, and deep shades of purple which begin at the head and ends with maroon-tipped fins.

It requires a 20 gallon or larger aquarium with plenty of loose coral rubble as part of the aquascape, and a tight-fitting lid to prevent it from jumping out of the tank. It will rarely become aggressive towards other fish, but is territorial, and will fight with its own kind unless they are a mated pair.

The Purple Firefish will feed mostly on prey suspended in the water column, but will pick food off the substrate. Its varied diet should consist of chopped or shaved seafood, frozen food preparations for carnivores, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, and mysis shrimp. The vibrant coloring will fade if not fed a vitamin-enriched diet.

Female Male

The Lyretail Anthias is the social butterfly of marine aquariums. This eye-catching fish is incredibly active and helps draw out shier fish that share the aquarium. The Lyretail Anthias is also known as the Scalefin and the males have bright red coloration of varying hues while the female Lyretail Anthias tends to be more orange in coloration.

The Lyretail Anthias does best when kept in a group and housed in a species-specific aquarium of at least 125 gallons in size. Male Lyretail Anthias are best kept alone or with several females. Though the Lyretail Anthias generally occupy the middle of the aquarium, it appreciates the availability of several hiding places.

Anthias species all share the trait of being hermaphroditic. If a dominant male perishes, the largest female of the group will often develop into a male to take his place.

Once acclimated to a new aquarium, anthias do best when fed a varied diet of frozen mysis shrimp, enriched frozen brine shrimp, and over time may eat high-quality flake foods offered in small quantities throughout the day. An attached refugium cultivating copepods and amphipods provides a steady supply of nutritious live food sure to keep this active planktivore content.

The ORA® Ocellaris Clownfish may be one of the aquarium industry's most popular marine fish. Its beautiful orange body dressed with white bands outlined in black instantly distinguishes the Ocellaris Clownfish. The Ocellaris Misbar has broken bars or bars that do not connect around the entire body. The Extreme Misbars have very few bars and could be only on one side of the fish's body. This member of the Pomacentridae family is an excellent addition to almost any saltwater aquarium system. What makes this specific variety even more appealing to aquarists is the fact that each Ocellaris Clownfish is captive-bred to help protect the fragile reef environments of the world.

The Captive-Bred ORA Ocellaris Clownfish has other unique advantages over wild-harvested species. For one, the Captive-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish is very hardy and more accustomed to conditions found in home aquariums. Therefore, it makes a great choice for novices and seasoned aquarists alike. The Captive-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish can also be kept with a variety of other captive-bred clownfish, if introduced into the aquarium at the same time.

The Captive-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish is also easy to breed in the home aquarium. The females will be the largest of the pair and the two fish will usually stay close to each other in the aquarium. The Captive-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish is an egg layer and will deposit the eggs on a flat surface and defend the eggs from other tankmates. The eggs will normally hatch in 6-11 days depending on the water temperature. The fry must be reared in a separate aquarium on a diet of rotifers followed by baby brine shrimp.

This Clownfish is an aggressive eater. It will accept most meaty foods and frozen herbivore preparations.

TO BE ADDED

The Blue Chromis is a very peaceful and active fish from the Caribbean. These fish reside in the upper part of the aquarium and will help bring out more shy species that normally hide. A shoaling fish, Blue Chromis should be maintained together in a group, and make a bright addition to the reef or fish only aquarium that is 30 gallons or larger. The Blue Chromis feeds on a variety of meaty items, herbivore preparations, and flaked food.

The diet should be varied and consist of meaty items, herbivore flakes, and frozen preparations. Using vitamin-enriched foods may help to preserve the bright color.

The Kaudern's Cardinal, also known as the Banggai Cardinalfish or Longfin Cardinalfish, is a very attractive fish with a simple yet sophisticated color scheme and marking. Its overall body coloration is a shimmering silver, highlighted with pearly white spots. Bold, black stripes along the body accentuate the long fins to elegant effect. LiveAquaria proudly offers captive bred Kaudern's Cardinalfish bred and reared in Indonesia and Asia that are hardier than their wild harvested counterparts.

House the Banggai Cardinalfish in a well-filtered 30 gallon or larger aquarium aquascape with a generous amount of live rock. Carefully arrange the aquarium landscape to create plenty of caves, overhangs, and crevices as well as an open area for swimming. House the Kaudern's Cardinal with peaceful tank mates as it is a slow and methodical swimmer. Groups of Banggai Cardinalfish can be kept in relative peace in larger systems with plenty of swimming and hiding spaces. Moderate water movement will also be appreciated by the Banggai Cardinalfish.

The Kaudern's Cardinal is relatively easy to breed in the aquarium setting. Once spawning has occurred, the male carries the eggs in his mouth to protect them.

The Kaudern's Cardinal should be fed small quantities of food several times per day consisting of a well-balanced diet which includes enriched frozen brine shrimp and mysis shrimp, along with a quality marine pellet or flake food.

That's super cool, very nice work and a great idea!

 

[reefingaz]

Your tank and setup is amazing and beautiful! Congratulations, one question and I’m not sure if it was asked. I read all 11 pages and maybe I’m wrong in what I see. You built a beautiful room for your supplies and QT, why did you decide to put the sump under then tank and not in the room behind if? The maintenance will be much easier especially as we age and are not as flexible as we are
Love your updates!

 

[Don Lidtke]

Your tank and setup is amazing and beautiful! Congratulations, one question and I’m not sure if it was asked. I read all 11 pages and maybe I’m wrong in what I see. You built a beautiful room for your supplies and QT, why did you decide to put the sump under then tank and not in the room behind if? The maintenance will be much easier especially as we age and are not as flexible as we are
Love your updates!

It was a oversight honestly. I had sump shipped to Crystal Dynamic and they plumbed the whole system together.

You are most certainly correct on the flexibility portion, lol!

 

[cmaxwell39]

Great idea and great job on the binder.

As far as the sump, it can always be moved. Once you get the sump out from under the tank, you will never run another tank with the sump slammed into the stand.

Hope you can find the fish you want soon, and get some corals in there soon too.

 

[dca22anderson]

Don where did you get that 3/4" braided hose? local?

 

[Don Lidtke]

Don where did you get that 3/4" braided hose? local?

I purchased the hose from BRS. However, I recall seeing this hose at Lowe’s.

 

[Don Lidtke]

Monthly tank check!!!
How are the QT fish doing and did you get some corals in the tank now?
I am wondering how you like the Kessils?? I consider them for my new set up,

 

[dca22anderson]

Don, How are you and your tank doing?