Shaun777
New Member
Hi guys
Hope everyone is well.
I'm starting a new build, which will be a room divider between a lounge and a study area. Being in South Africa we work with the metric system but I've tried to convert everything. Hope I'm correct there.
The tank dimensions will be 60" x 48" x 24".
Overflow will be coast2coast on the 48" side and external.
Do I go 12mm or 15mm? I want it braced around the sides, top and bottom...but I don't want any bracing over the middles of the top and bottom (hope I'm making sense).
It will have a floating base, so dimensions will be slightly different to above, and also depending on glass thickness.
Water level at 22".
Black silicone.
The tank stand is at 36" high made from 2" x 2" square tube. It will have a desk off the side, which will have to 60" x 28" wooden top on at a height of 31".
The stand will have 9 feet (not 12) as in the attached pic. The feet have 12mm thread with a 80mm diameter rubber foot.
Please excuse the drawings. Just to give an idea. Measurements are basically the same...just in mm and not inches.
Chiller - Teco TK2000 from a previous tank.
Lighting - undecided. I'm thinking of either 2x Neptune Sky or 2x ATI Straton. Suggestions welcome.
Flow - 4x Tunze 6105 Eco (11w each max) to start.
Skimmer - undecided. Thinking Reef Octo 5000 or Bubble Magus equivalent. Suggestions welcome.
UV - 1 or 2x Ultrazap 55w. Is one enough, or would two be better?
Return pump - low wattage DC, but I like my return to run slowly,no more than 1-1.5x volume.
Heating - 4x 300w Jager - unless someone has an electricity saving option? I'm all ears.
The sump will be quite simple. 48" x 24" x 16" with a water level from 12" to 8" throughout the various compartments. Compartments will consist of inlet, skimmer, refugium, and return. With a small section for an RO reservoir, which will have a RODI unit connected to a float valve to keep it full at all times, from which an ATO unit will top the sump off.
My house runs completely off solar, so I'd like to keep the power usage down as much as possible. During winter is the only challenge.
The stand is done and off for galvanizing tomorrow. It'll be sprayed black when it gets back with something similar to a Hammerite to further protect it.
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Have a great evening.
Hope everyone is well.
I'm starting a new build, which will be a room divider between a lounge and a study area. Being in South Africa we work with the metric system but I've tried to convert everything. Hope I'm correct there.
The tank dimensions will be 60" x 48" x 24".
Overflow will be coast2coast on the 48" side and external.
Do I go 12mm or 15mm? I want it braced around the sides, top and bottom...but I don't want any bracing over the middles of the top and bottom (hope I'm making sense).
It will have a floating base, so dimensions will be slightly different to above, and also depending on glass thickness.
Water level at 22".
Black silicone.
The tank stand is at 36" high made from 2" x 2" square tube. It will have a desk off the side, which will have to 60" x 28" wooden top on at a height of 31".
The stand will have 9 feet (not 12) as in the attached pic. The feet have 12mm thread with a 80mm diameter rubber foot.
Please excuse the drawings. Just to give an idea. Measurements are basically the same...just in mm and not inches.
Chiller - Teco TK2000 from a previous tank.
Lighting - undecided. I'm thinking of either 2x Neptune Sky or 2x ATI Straton. Suggestions welcome.
Flow - 4x Tunze 6105 Eco (11w each max) to start.
Skimmer - undecided. Thinking Reef Octo 5000 or Bubble Magus equivalent. Suggestions welcome.
UV - 1 or 2x Ultrazap 55w. Is one enough, or would two be better?
Return pump - low wattage DC, but I like my return to run slowly,no more than 1-1.5x volume.
Heating - 4x 300w Jager - unless someone has an electricity saving option? I'm all ears.
The sump will be quite simple. 48" x 24" x 16" with a water level from 12" to 8" throughout the various compartments. Compartments will consist of inlet, skimmer, refugium, and return. With a small section for an RO reservoir, which will have a RODI unit connected to a float valve to keep it full at all times, from which an ATO unit will top the sump off.
My house runs completely off solar, so I'd like to keep the power usage down as much as possible. During winter is the only challenge.
The stand is done and off for galvanizing tomorrow. It'll be sprayed black when it gets back with something similar to a Hammerite to further protect it.
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Have a great evening.
