Multiple QT Tanks, best way for Anthias

[SaracensRugby]

Ok, so after having Brook wipe out a lot of my fish, time to step up my QT game. I have one 45 gallon tank that will be dedicated to Copper treatment. I will have another 20 gallon that can be dedicated to prazi/metro, if I do not mix those with the copper tank treatment. I can also save the 20 gallon as the observation tank, or get another 20 for observation. Here is the question:

I have a christmas wrasse starting the copper protocol. I have an opportunity to get 5 anthias, but know they are sensitive to copper. Do you think prophylactically treating the anthias with metro and prazi, for 3 weeks, then TTM would cover everything? Is TTM less stress on these particular fish vs copper? Should I do TTM first, then treat with metro/prazi for the anthias?

How would you set this process up? Seems like 3 QT tanks might be the way to go here.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok, so after having Brook wipe out a lot of my fish, time to step up my QT game. I have one 45 gallon tank that will be dedicated to Copper treatment. I will have another 20 gallon that can be dedicated to prazi/metro, if I do not mix those with the copper tank treatment. I can also save the 20 gallon as the observation tank, or get another 20 for observation. Here is the question:

I have a christmas wrasse starting the copper protocol. I have an opportunity to get 5 anthias, but know they are sensitive to copper. Do you think prophylactically treating the anthias with metro and prazi, for 3 weeks, then TTM would cover everything? Is TTM less stress on these particular fish vs copper? Should I do TTM first, then treat with metro/prazi for the anthias?

How would you set this process up? Seems like 3 QT tanks might be the way to go here.

For brook, treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Ok, so after having Brook wipe out a lot of my fish, time to step up my QT game. I have one 45 gallon tank that will be dedicated to Copper treatment. I will have another 20 gallon that can be dedicated to prazi/metro, if I do not mix those with the copper tank treatment. I can also save the 20 gallon as the observation tank, or get another 20 for observation. Here is the question:

I have a christmas wrasse starting the copper protocol. I have an opportunity to get 5 anthias, but know they are sensitive to copper. Do you think prophylactically treating the anthias with metro and prazi, for 3 weeks, then TTM would cover everything? Is TTM less stress on these particular fish vs copper? Should I do TTM first, then treat with metro/prazi for the anthias?

How would you set this process up? Seems like 3 QT tanks might be the way to go here.

What copper medication are you planning to use? Anthias are fine with copper power or coppersafe. I’ve seen a lot of poor quality squampinnis anthias coming through lately - I’d avoid those unless you know they came from E. Africa.
Jay

 

[SaracensRugby]

@Jay Hemdal I plan on using Copperpower, and have a hannah checker to confirm copper levels. I plan on slowly ramping up over 4-5 days to be safe and know my total water volume, etc. I am not in a huge rush, so a few extra days to go slow is fine by me. After researching more, I plan on treating with copper power AND metro the first two weeks as well. The wrasse is busy looking for food and appears to be in great health.
@vetteguy53081 I have Ruby Rally Pro, how many days would you treat the fish for in a QT tank with that to be effective? Hard to find solid data on that. Would you treat the anthias with reef rally pro before adding them to the QT with the wrasse? I have enough tanks, that I could separate the anthias into their own QT with copper and metro, in the event they showed signs of disease after a few days. I am new to QT so not sure if you should treat all fish for diseases prophylactically, or wait and see while treating with copper power, etc. Or can you combine fishes at different time points into the same QT. Introducing fishes mid way seems like a way to restart the QT clock now that I think of it.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Jay Hemdal I plan on using Copperpower, and have a hannah checker to confirm copper levels. I plan on slowly ramping up over 4-5 days to be safe and know my total water volume, etc. I am not in a huge rush, so a few extra days to go slow is fine by me. After researching more, I plan on treating with copper power AND metro the first two weeks as well. The wrasse is busy looking for food and appears to be in great health.
@vetteguy53081 I have Ruby Rally Pro, how many days would you treat the fish for in a QT tank with that to be effective? Hard to find solid data on that. Would you treat the anthias with reef rally pro before adding them to the QT with the wrasse? I have enough tanks, that I could separate the anthias into their own QT with copper and metro, in the event they showed signs of disease after a few days. I am new to QT so not sure if you should treat all fish for diseases prophylactically, or wait and see while treating with copper power, etc. Or can you combine fishes at different time points into the same QT. Introducing fishes mid way seems like a way to restart the QT clock now that I think of it.

Ramping copper up slowly brings with it a huge risk when treating new fish - the copper will not have any benefit until you reach a full dose. This idea came from the old ionic copper products. They were really harsh and you needed to raise them over 48 hours. That then got extrapolated to these amine based copper products and the 48 hours got lengthened - leaving the fish at risk during that time. Dealers put new fish right into full copper in their systems all of the time.

Jay