Kessil Show Off Thread (Warning, may be picture heavy!)

Which Kessil Product Do You Use Or Have Used


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bif24701

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My par numbers are about the same blue or white in Kessil, the pur is 10% higher on the bluer setting

That’s because corals use more of the blue light than greens and reds. Around 420-460nm has been shown to activate photosynthesis in corals better That’s why your PUR is higher.
 

Rookie_reefer_420

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Just figured I’d throw up a picture of my kessils to the thread everyone’s tanks look great in the thread!! Enjoyed checking them out!!
 

bif24701

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View attachment 691159 Just figured I’d throw up a picture of my kessils to the thread everyone’s tanks look great in the thread!! Enjoyed checking them out!!

Very nice looking set up. It looks so clean and sleek with the Kessils. Can’t wait to see when it’s filled out with coral.
 

Rookie_reefer_420

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Very nice looking set up. It looks so clean and sleek with the Kessils. Can’t wait to see when it’s filled out with coral.
I just added corals from sexycorals about 2 weeks ago and it’s looking more like a reef tank everyday. Very exciting as this is my first tank ever!! It blows my mind everyday looking at my piece of the ocean right in living room.
 

bif24701

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I just added corals from sexycorals about 2 weeks ago and it’s looking more like a reef tank everyday. Very exciting as this is my first tank ever!! It blows my mind everyday looking at my piece of the ocean right in living room.

Looks like you have thought hard about your system. The crushes coral though might give you issues trapping waste.
 

Rookie_reefer_420

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Looks like you have thought hard about your system. The crushes coral though might give you issues trapping waste.
The system is so new and not stocked very heavily, figured I’d need to trap some “stuff” so I won’t need to dose phosphates/nitrates. I know I’m not going to add tons of fish (originally I wanted a tank full but now I want to keep it lightly stocked) just the ones I really want even if they’re expensive. I’d rather have a few of what I really want then tons of fish. Could be a problem in the future but nothing a few vac cleanings won’t handle.
 

Hentz

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Howdy folks!!

Looking to start a frag/growout/back-up tank to my 120 SPS Dominant reef. Working on a completely separate system and am going back and forth on a JBJ Frag tank or the IM Fusion 20 (both locally used.) Running an ATI 6x54 on my 120 with SPS growing like crazy. Never had the kind of tank to push out colors and growth like I am in my tank. I've got a huge frag rack in the tank and its hideous. Hence why I'm getting a separate frag tank.

Question is though, I won't really be able to hang anything like another T5 fixture.. I've been heavily debating on using a Kessil 160 to light the shallow tank, hoping it would be plenty fine. I'll be dosing Triton just as I am in the 120, and also adding some live rock from my 120 for bacterial purposes.

What do you guys think about that for the Kessil 160?
 

itisjp

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I have a 180 gallon display with 4 x 360 Tuna blues with 4 T5 (can’t remember what the t5 bulbs are but two blue and two white) . These pictures the Kessil’s are on and T5’s are off for the day. I run the on an Apex controler. Also testing out the Aquarium Cam app for pictures... I love my Kessil’s and the way the color changes throughout my lighting cycle. Hope the pictures come out good.
 

bif24701

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Howdy folks!!

Looking to start a frag/growout/back-up tank to my 120 SPS Dominant reef. Working on a completely separate system and am going back and forth on a JBJ Frag tank or the IM Fusion 20 (both locally used.) Running an ATI 6x54 on my 120 with SPS growing like crazy. Never had the kind of tank to push out colors and growth like I am in my tank. I've got a huge frag rack in the tank and its hideous. Hence why I'm getting a separate frag tank.

Question is though, I won't really be able to hang anything like another T5 fixture.. I've been heavily debating on using a Kessil 160 to light the shallow tank, hoping it would be plenty fine. I'll be dosing Triton just as I am in the 120, and also adding some live rock from my 120 for bacterial purposes.

What do you guys think about that for the Kessil 160?

How big is this frag tank, I think your better off with 360s. Even in a shallow tank 160s are not meant for high demand corals.
 

bif24701

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View attachment 694196View attachment 694195 View attachment 694193 View attachment 694192 View attachment 694190 View attachment 694188 View attachment 694185 View attachment 694184 View attachment 694183 View attachment 694182 View attachment 694181 View attachment 694178 View attachment 694175 I have a 180 gallon display with 4 x 360 Tuna blues with 4 T5 (can’t remember what the t5 bulbs are but two blue and two white) . These pictures the Kessil’s are on and T5’s are off for the day. I run the on an Apex controler. Also testing out the Aquarium Cam app for pictures... I love my Kessil’s and the way the color changes throughout my lighting cycle. Hope the pictures come out good.

What is that first screen shot from your Fusion?
 

madweazl

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Then that’s about right. If you had a PAR meter you could fine tune the height. By lowering the light and checking at what point it no longer reaches the outside corals. Mounted 14” a lot of light is going to be hitting the glass, this illuminating the whole tank. However if you lowered the light to the point where all corals are getting hit but not so high it’s spilling onto the glass or outside.

That’s how I found that ~9” is ideal for a 36” length.

I think Dana Riddle is running the AP700 at 9" above a 48" long tank as well; stated that was the best PAR for the tank (and PUR at color setting 2 I believe).
 

madweazl

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Thanks for responding. More than three would be crazy, or just un necessary?

For an SPS dominant tank, minimum four. A spread of 18" is too far to get consistent PAR across the arrays with the A360WE; 15" would be a realistic max.
 

bif24701

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I think Dana Riddle is running the AP700 at 9" above a 48" long tank as well; stated that was the best PAR for the tank (and PUR at color setting 2 I believe).

Well any higher than 9” and PAR begins to drop off. However 9” and under it doesn’t. I think it has a lot to do with light bouncing around the tank, off the glass, sand and the surface.
 

itisjp

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For an SPS dominant tank, minimum four. A spread of 18" is too far to get consistent PAR across the arrays with the A360WE; 15" would be a realistic max.
I beg to differ from
My experience so far, it’s still
Young with LED’s but mine are 9 inches above the water... granted I also have T5’s but once I cut the intensity down on the 360’s my coral started to look better and extend their polyps more. It’s a balancing act. I use to be on the bleeding edge in the 90’s when everyone doubted a T5’s driven by a icecap digital ballast could grow SPS, so take popular opinions with a grain of salt.
 

itisjp

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I have a par meter and the bottom is 150’s in the middle bottom of the tank and above 500 par at 72% PUR in the top middle , of course the edges are lower but I have noticed that if I crank my lights up to much the corals start to look bleached out and the polyps hide. So it’s not a question of power on my tank.
 

madweazl

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I beg to differ from
My experience so far, it’s still
Young with LED’s but mine are 9 inches above the water... granted I also have T5’s but once I cut the intensity down on the 360’s my coral started to look better and extend their polyps more. It’s a balancing act. I use to be on the bleeding edge in the 90’s when everyone doubted a T5’s driven by a icecap digital ballast could grow SPS, so take popular opinions with a grain of salt.

The issue isn't intensity directly, it is about even coverage laterally across the tank. Spread beyond 15", PAR levels become inconsistent between the arrays and overlapping coverage. You cant increase the intensity of one array to overcome the coverage that it's capable of producing; you'll end up with hot spots and corals that react negatively. The solution is to have more arrays, closer together, at a lower intensity (if need be) to provide even light across the length of the tank.
 
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madweazl

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I have a par meter and the bottom is 150’s in the middle bottom of the tank and above 500 par at 72% PUR in the top middle , of course the edges are lower but I have noticed that if I crank my lights up to much the corals start to look bleached out and the polyps hide. So it’s not a question of power on my tank.

Not sure what you're using to measure PAR but an A360WE wont produce 500 PAR anywhere under the water if it's mounted 9" above the water.
 

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