Keeping Anthias in Observation tank - how long?

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So, I'm planning to buy a group of 7-9 female anthias . I am not equipped at the moment for medicated quarantine but I will initially house them in an observation tank.

I read that they are susceptible to urenoma and all - how long do I need to "observe" them before I can move to DT. 45-60 days enough?

This will also allow me to dose food where there would be no competition.

LMK
 

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So, I'm planning to buy a group of 7-9 female anthias . I am not equipped at the moment for medicated quarantine but I will initially house them in an observation tank.

I read that they are susceptible to urenoma and all - how long do I need to "observe" them before I can move to DT. 45-60 days enough?

This will also allow me to dose food where there would be no competition.

LMK
As these are susceptible to uronema, observation tank can allow diseases to develop
Add ruby rally pro to the tank at minimum
 
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As these are susceptible to uronema, observation tank can allow diseases to develop
Add ruby rally pro to the tank at minimum

I usually do hydroplex bath after receipt before putting fish into the tank

I have also used the Safety stop in the past - any good?
 
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BTW the observation tank has an 8W UV on it (tank is 33G Long)
 

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I usually do hydroplex bath after receipt before putting fish into the tank

I have also used the Safety stop in the past - any good?
I have zero faith in hydroelectric and safety stop ok but temporary
Ruby rally will treat and protect the anthias
 
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As these are susceptible to uronema, observation tank can allow diseases to develop
Add ruby rally pro to the tank at minimum

I can do Ruby Rally Pro - just looked it up.

 

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If you have a stable holding tank, why not just do a proper quarantine on them?

 
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If you have a stable holding tank, why not just do a proper quarantine on them?


It's an established bare bottom observation tank with cheap softies/LR and some inverts. which I dont want to discard. There are also small clowns that would die in my display because of the maroon.
 
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If you have a stable holding tank, why not just do a proper quarantine on them?



..so in other words medicating it is not going to work but I can do a bath before introducing stuff to it.
 

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..so in other words medicating it is not going to work but I can do a bath before introducing stuff to it.

Sorry, not sure I understand. The quarantine process outlined also treats a good majority of common infectious diseases, so skipping that, and just holding the fish in a tank that could be used for that purpose is a mistake. Having invertebrates in the holding tank complicates the process....can you move them?

Giving the fish a bath in some medication can be used as a diagnostic tool (if you then use a microscope to scan the results) and it can offer temporary relief to some problems, but a bath by itself won't permanently cure most issues, unless you then move the fish to a sterile tank (and you need to do that multiple times).

Internal Uronema shows up in newly acquired fish of certain species (chromis, some wrasse and anthias). It is not highly contagious to other fish. If you want to just screen for that, then yes, holding the new fish in that tank for 45 days will allow any affected fish to "drop out" and not be a further issue. The quarantine process I posted does NOT cure Uronema, so if that is the main concern, your plan will be fine.

Jay
 
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Internal Uronema shows up in newly acquired fish of certain species (chromis, some wrasse and anthias). It is not highly contagious to other fish. If you want to just screen for that, then yes, holding the new fish in that tank for 45 days will allow any affected fish to "drop out" and not be a further issue. The quarantine process I posted does NOT cure Uronema, so if that is the main concern, your plan will be fine.

Jay

This is the exact plan; I wish I had more space for a more elaborate quarantine but just not the case. Im thinking of holding off until I am more prepared, especially with Anthias.

The "transitional" holding thank has worked very well with other arrivals thus far. It allowed me to screen and make sure the fish feed and get round before dropping it in the DT, sometimes 3-6 months later.
 

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