Good reading. thanks for the tips.
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you where right sonny my CAL is at 420 but my alk went up to 10.4 im trying to lower it atm by holding off with the dosing of Cal for a few days. are there any ways to lower alk??
And why is that? What is it about LNS or sugar that makes higher ALK bad?
I am running bio pellets and was curious if it is the same.
GFO or not to GFO? I like to keep my reef as simple as possible. I never ran GFO before I do run ROX carbon. I am considering it b/c now I have a bagillion corals, my PO4 reads 0 on API (dont really know how reliable that is) but some SPS bases wont color up like the edge. I.e. my Rainbow montipora has awesome blue edge but base is brown and a few SPS I have the tips are awesome bright colors but the base is brown, if I frag them and give them to others the bases get color.... Could GFO help me?
Yeah, what he said. Curious to hear a response. I have over a square foot of pokerstar that is only blue at the edge.
If the PO4 is at 0 what are you using to measure it and is there any algae growth in the tank? Unless you are using a Hanna meter you may not be getting an accurate reading. Also, if algae is present in the tank it can and will absorb the PO4 before it is able to register on a test. GFO is a good product and I would recoomend you run it if you feel that it may help. It wont hurt anything in your system and may even reduce the growth of algae and increase coloration.
If the corals are growing and doing well but lacking in color I would look at water clarity, flow, and lighting.
Are you running carbon?
How is the flow in the tank?
What is your photoperiod and lighting setup?
Lots of flow in the 155, (2) MP40W, big Tunze, Koralia4, Iwaki 55 return through a SCWD
(3) 250W radiums on Lumatek digital ballast on HQI setting(overdrive) (2) 96W PC dual actinics.
Actinics 8AM-10PM, Halides 10AM-6PM
No carbon, no GFO
No PO4 meter, but I have NO algae in the system, which is 600g altogether, including another 72g DT and a large sump/prop system.
All my other corals are colored up great, the pokerstar is on a large rock at the bottom, I'm sure it would get the blue right back if it was right under a halide, but it's part of my base.
I know carbon and GFO are the next most obvious things to do, but I don't want it to be too clean, as my other DT is mostly LPS, but I guess I'll have to experiment.
Thanks
usually when i would buy some large sps mini colonies they have concrete bases, but if they are unmounted, how would i attach the colony to my live rock? im kind of hesitant with the epoxy cause of the heat build up when u mix the epoxy together, will this RTN the tissue of the sps?
Im using the brightwells system, for the mb7/reefbiofuel, how important do u think are the extra additives some bac driven systems use to help improve coloration. For example, dosing iodine, potassium, trace elements, vit C, koral color from brightwells. Do you think it will help improve coloration or a disaster waiting to happen as not many people do check potassium/iodine levels regularly compared to alk/calc/mag.
Also will your own product line include something similar to help improve sps coloration?
Sounds great sunny can't wait what will you additive line consist of??
Anytime.Thanks for the tips
Wow very cool sunny.... I just caught up with this thread and would be very interested in a line of products you come out with...
Right now I use the whole brightwells line and vodka... Pretty much followed your footsteps since the whole vodka/mb7 thing came out....
Sounds good.I'm down to try some out with the success you've had I'd trust your products
Good luck with everything sunny. setting up a new 65 this coming weekend. HAve a new bm doser, and everything ready to go. just trying to figure out what lights ill put on it. So might be kind of cool to try something out and monitor the progress on the new tank. I ll have to take a look at what you are going to carry.
Mojo~