It was this big... Now its this big...

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F i s h y

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@sfin52
Scaping info
Equipment:
Pair of heavy rubber gloves like mechanics wear:
They need to be flexible to allow dexterity, but you want the thick as well. When done correctly the glue and the rock dust / sand create a chemical reaction that gets very hot, this will burn you, even through the gloves. I've melted the glove to my hand a few times.

Plastic spoon: makes scooping the dust / sand into the joints easier, and I find I waste less.

Plastic Knife: this is helpful for pushing the sand that has piled up on your joints into the little cracks and crevices.

@Glue Masters thin super glue.
I use this exclusively, It can be bought in a large quantity, and they give a R2R discount. You will use more glue than you expect.

Rock dust:
You can make your own or you can purchase through Marco. They now package it as a separate product. I find this to be superior to just sand.

Sand that is sugar fine. I get a cheap bag from Petco in the saltwater section. I typically mix my sand and rock dust in a 2 to 1 ratio, 2 parts dust to 1 part sand.

Spray bottle:
Use this to keep your rocks moist if using wet rock.

Rock:
I use wet rock almost exclusively now. but dry works very well. The size piece I go for is somewhere between golf ball and baseball. I find that you want these smaller so you can use them to really build in the shapes, curves, overhangs, arches, and depth you want into your scape. This is probably one of the most important parts, I think people use to large of pieces and it causes the over all end product to be less desired and the scapes tend to break more easily because of the weight of the individual pieces.
For wet rock, i leave it out up to 2 hours at a time while I am working on it. I have not found there to be any detriment to the bacteria present. I spray my scape down and the rocks every 30 mins or so, or simply dunk them back in water.

Getting started:
Find a large base rocks that are mostly flat on the bottom. I prefer the base rocks made by Marco that are completely flat (cut with a saw). This ensure the safest base. I like to use 2 or 3 for each scape, spread out, and I build my first layer of rock scape between them to connect them all.

As you put rocks together you want to dry the surfaces with a towel you will be trying to bond if using wet rock.

Start layering sand and glue in the joints. I put glue all over the joint first, then drop sand in it. then repeat over and over until the space between rocks is filled.

Make sure to have a vision. While it is important to think about what the scape looks like as you build, keep in mind the types of coral you will keep, the type of flow they will need, the lighting, etc. and then also keep in mind that what you put on there as frags will grow. allow space for things to grow. I think that was the biggest learning curve for me, and why my scapes look so good now.

"pro tips"
This is a long process, it should not be fast. you are building layers of sand and glue in the joints with each pass, the longer it takes the stronger it is. I have issues with the rocks breaking and not my joints more often than not.

Don't forget to do all sides of the joints. Most people forget the bottom of the joints. As you work, carefully flip and turn your scape to get all of the joints. My scapes are able to be inverted, and placed upside down, sideways, any way on the table because I take the time to do all around the joint. Sometimes it is nice to have a second set of hands to help build, flipping a heavy scape is not easy.

Use the small pieces of rubble under the joints to help bridge the gaps. simply glue into place and then fill in the gaps with dust and glue. Think marble sized and brick laying. You want the smaller rocks to touch both of the rocks you are gluing and bridge the gap.

To make your joints look more like rock and less like concrete sand, when you apply your final layer of glue, instead of using the sand / dust mixture, sprinkle on some pebbles or course sand. Give it depth and dimension, and break up the joint profile.

I'm sure I will think of more. But this should get things started.
 

Projects with Sam

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@sfin52
Scaping info
Equipment:
Pair of heavy rubber gloves like mechanics wear:
They need to be flexible to allow dexterity, but you want the thick as well. When done correctly the glue and the rock dust / sand create a chemical reaction that gets very hot, this will burn you, even through the gloves. I've melted the glove to my hand a few times.

Plastic spoon: makes scooping the dust / sand into the joints easier, and I find I waste less.

Plastic Knife: this is helpful for pushing the sand that has piled up on your joints into the little cracks and crevices.

@Glue Masters thin super glue.
I use this exclusively, It can be bought in a large quantity, and they give a R2R discount. You will use more glue than you expect.

Rock dust:
You can make your own or you can purchase through Marco. They now package it as a separate product. I find this to be superior to just sand.

Sand that is sugar fine. I get a cheap bag from Petco in the saltwater section. I typically mix my sand and rock dust in a 2 to 1 ratio, 2 parts dust to 1 part sand.

Spray bottle:
Use this to keep your rocks moist if using wet rock.

Rock:
I use wet rock almost exclusively now. but dry works very well. The size piece I go for is somewhere between golf ball and baseball. I find that you want these smaller so you can use them to really build in the shapes, curves, overhangs, arches, and depth you want into your scape. This is probably one of the most important parts, I think people use to large of pieces and it causes the over all end product to be less desired and the scapes tend to break more easily because of the weight of the individual pieces.
For wet rock, i leave it out up to 2 hours at a time while I am working on it. I have not found there to be any detriment to the bacteria present. I spray my scape down and the rocks every 30 mins or so, or simply dunk them back in water.

Getting started:
Find a large base rocks that are mostly flat on the bottom. I prefer the base rocks made by Marco that are completely flat (cut with a saw). This ensure the safest base. I like to use 2 or 3 for each scape, spread out, and I build my first layer of rock scape between them to connect them all.

As you put rocks together you want to dry the surfaces with a towel you will be trying to bond if using wet rock.

Start layering sand and glue in the joints. I put glue all over the joint first, then drop sand in it. then repeat over and over until the space between rocks is filled.

Make sure to have a vision. While it is important to think about what the scape looks like as you build, keep in mind the types of coral you will keep, the type of flow they will need, the lighting, etc. and then also keep in mind that what you put on there as frags will grow. allow space for things to grow. I think that was the biggest learning curve for me, and why my scapes look so good now.

"pro tips"
This is a long process, it should not be fast. you are building layers of sand and glue in the joints with each pass, the longer it takes the stronger it is. I have issues with the rocks breaking and not my joints more often than not.

Don't forget to do all sides of the joints. Most people forget the bottom of the joints. As you work, carefully flip and turn your scape to get all of the joints. My scapes are able to be inverted, and placed upside down, sideways, any way on the table because I take the time to do all around the joint. Sometimes it is nice to have a second set of hands to help build, flipping a heavy scape is not easy.

Use the small pieces of rubble under the joints to help bridge the gaps. simply glue into place and then fill in the gaps with dust and glue. Think marble sized and brick laying. You want the smaller rocks to touch both of the rocks you are gluing and bridge the gap.

To make your joints look more like rock and less like concrete sand, when you apply your final layer of glue, instead of using the sand / dust mixture, sprinkle on some pebbles or course sand. Give it depth and dimension, and break up the joint profile.

I'm sure I will think of more. But this should get things started.
crap; I should have used this as a script for my rock video! nice writeup!
 

Lost in the Sauce

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Meltage
PXL_20230711_032906292.jpg
 

sfin52

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I app
@sfin52
Scaping info
Equipment:
Pair of heavy rubber gloves like mechanics wear:
They need to be flexible to allow dexterity, but you want the thick as well. When done correctly the glue and the rock dust / sand create a chemical reaction that gets very hot, this will burn you, even through the gloves. I've melted the glove to my hand a few times.

Plastic spoon: makes scooping the dust / sand into the joints easier, and I find I waste less.

Plastic Knife: this is helpful for pushing the sand that has piled up on your joints into the little cracks and crevices.

@Glue Masters thin super glue.
I use this exclusively, It can be bought in a large quantity, and they give a R2R discount. You will use more glue than you expect.

Rock dust:
You can make your own or you can purchase through Marco. They now package it as a separate product. I find this to be superior to just sand.

Sand that is sugar fine. I get a cheap bag from Petco in the saltwater section. I typically mix my sand and rock dust in a 2 to 1 ratio, 2 parts dust to 1 part sand.

Spray bottle:
Use this to keep your rocks moist if using wet rock.

Rock:
I use wet rock almost exclusively now. but dry works very well. The size piece I go for is somewhere between golf ball and baseball. I find that you want these smaller so you can use them to really build in the shapes, curves, overhangs, arches, and depth you want into your scape. This is probably one of the most important parts, I think people use to large of pieces and it causes the over all end product to be less desired and the scapes tend to break more easily because of the weight of the individual pieces.
For wet rock, i leave it out up to 2 hours at a time while I am working on it. I have not found there to be any detriment to the bacteria present. I spray my scape down and the rocks every 30 mins or so, or simply dunk them back in water.

Getting started:
Find a large base rocks that are mostly flat on the bottom. I prefer the base rocks made by Marco that are completely flat (cut with a saw). This ensure the safest base. I like to use 2 or 3 for each scape, spread out, and I build my first layer of rock scape between them to connect them all.

As you put rocks together you want to dry the surfaces with a towel you will be trying to bond if using wet rock.

Start layering sand and glue in the joints. I put glue all over the joint first, then drop sand in it. then repeat over and over until the space between rocks is filled.

Make sure to have a vision. While it is important to think about what the scape looks like as you build, keep in mind the types of coral you will keep, the type of flow they will need, the lighting, etc. and then also keep in mind that what you put on there as frags will grow. allow space for things to grow. I think that was the biggest learning curve for me, and why my scapes look so good now.

"pro tips"
This is a long process, it should not be fast. you are building layers of sand and glue in the joints with each pass, the longer it takes the stronger it is. I have issues with the rocks breaking and not my joints more often than not.

Don't forget to do all sides of the joints. Most people forget the bottom of the joints. As you work, carefully flip and turn your scape to get all of the joints. My scapes are able to be inverted, and placed upside down, sideways, any way on the table because I take the time to do all around the joint. Sometimes it is nice to have a second set of hands to help build, flipping a heavy scape is not easy.

Use the small pieces of rubble under the joints to help bridge the gaps. simply glue into place and then fill in the gaps with dust and glue. Think marble sized and brick laying. You want the smaller rocks to touch both of the rocks you are gluing and bridge the gap.

To make your joints look more like rock and less like concrete sand, when you apply your final layer of glue, instead of using the sand / dust mixture, sprinkle on some pebbles or course sand. Give it depth and dimension, and break up the joint profile.

I'm sure I will think of more. But this should get things started.
I appreciate the detailed response. I've had issues with the joint not holding when using wet rock, Ill have to give this a try. Maybe it was because i wasnt drying the rocks as well as i thought.
 
OP
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F i s h y

F i s h y

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rmorris_14

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I'm wearing that shirt today that I was in that pic. It's a little tighter now. Must have shrunk in the laundry or something.
my clothes are 100% tighter as well. I think its in our water. I remember seeing a press release about it not that long ago ;)
 

Projects with Sam

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HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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