kinetic
Valuable Member
Don't have a CADE, but using 3M double sided tape works really well. I use the velcro ones so I can put them on/off. Just make sure surfaces are clean when sticking.
Isaac's CADE 1500s2/ Peninsula Reef Build
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- Thread starter Isaac Alves
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Don't have a CADE, but using 3M double sided tape works really well. I use the velcro ones so I can put them on/off. Just make sure surfaces are clean when sticking.
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As I build out the Cade system, it’s future inhabitants , still live in the Cadlight 70. Today is water change, and wave maker cleaning day.
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Using these m4 1/2” hex screws with a bolt to start mounting these heavier items…
Put one of the Apex EB8 on the side
on the opposite side of the wall the bolt just slightly pop out…
Mounting plate mounted for the EB32:
Put one of the Apex EB8 on the side
on the opposite side of the wall the bolt just slightly pop out…
Mounting plate mounted for the EB32:
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Just using a 11/64 bit to carefully make the holes.
Mounting is actually a bit easier than I thought it would be. APEX brain and EB32 mounted…
Mounting is actually a bit easier than I thought it would be. APEX brain and EB32 mounted…
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The first partition in the electric panel is a dark stained plywood.
here’s my technique for mounting stuff to it.
I first check to make sure the electronic component actually has clearance away from the glass door. There is unfortunately not much space between this plywood portion and the glass door.
I’m thinking of putting the Maxspect Gyre controller here at the top…
so I position the unit in place:
to make sure it’s straight I use a pencil, tape measure and level.
I make sure I have enough room on top to easily remove the controller from the mounting plate.
I then measure the space from the top of the controller to the first row of holes on the mounting plate…
And mark that with a pencil tik on the ruler.
then I mark the position on the mounting wall…
Then mark the tik from the ruler to the board:
mark in place I can make a line with the level to use as a guide for the mounting plate…
once I have these marks the rest is quick. But, its quicker with a self drilling screw, and these PowerPro 6x1/2” self drilling coated screws from Loweare awesome…
easy breezy with a good impact drill…
here’s my technique for mounting stuff to it.
I first check to make sure the electronic component actually has clearance away from the glass door. There is unfortunately not much space between this plywood portion and the glass door.
I’m thinking of putting the Maxspect Gyre controller here at the top…
so I position the unit in place:
to make sure it’s straight I use a pencil, tape measure and level.
I make sure I have enough room on top to easily remove the controller from the mounting plate.
I then measure the space from the top of the controller to the first row of holes on the mounting plate…
And mark that with a pencil tik on the ruler.
then I mark the position on the mounting wall…
Then mark the tik from the ruler to the board:
mark in place I can make a line with the level to use as a guide for the mounting plate…
once I have these marks the rest is quick. But, its quicker with a self drilling screw, and these PowerPro 6x1/2” self drilling coated screws from Loweare awesome…
easy breezy with a good impact drill…
OP
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Refugium-conversion update
I wanted to try and block some of the light that will be coming from the refugium. So I got a piece of black acrylic that should cover the area next to the skimmer. I'm simply using silicone to adhere it to the inside wall of the converted ATO-to-fuge section. I still plan on hanging some foam material to prevent more light spill.
Here’s the acrylic sheet:
Want to position it here…maybe a tad lower
Siliconed and clamped:
I wanted to try and block some of the light that will be coming from the refugium. So I got a piece of black acrylic that should cover the area next to the skimmer. I'm simply using silicone to adhere it to the inside wall of the converted ATO-to-fuge section. I still plan on hanging some foam material to prevent more light spill.
Here’s the acrylic sheet:
Want to position it here…maybe a tad lower
Siliconed and clamped:
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I decided to place the power bars suspended and up against the inner wall of the electronics compartment. The Ecotech G6 XR30 bars are huge.
I’m using these cheap 3D printed generic bar mounts with Velcro straps that I found from a seller on Ebay. I had to use two for the XR30 bars.
They do hold well though.
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I also started mounting the Ecotech pump drivers on the inside of the wooden door. I think I’ll line them up here at the top.
I’ll be running two MP40s and two Maxspect Gyres in the display. There will be one MP10 in the Refugium. In any case, I think 4 Ecotech drivers will fit nicely in a row: 2x MP40s, 1x MP10, 1x Vectra L1.
Definitely slow going, but almost there once the electrical is done.
I’m using these cheap 3D printed generic bar mounts with Velcro straps that I found from a seller on Ebay. I had to use two for the XR30 bars.
They do hold well though.
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I also started mounting the Ecotech pump drivers on the inside of the wooden door. I think I’ll line them up here at the top.
I’ll be running two MP40s and two Maxspect Gyres in the display. There will be one MP10 in the Refugium. In any case, I think 4 Ecotech drivers will fit nicely in a row: 2x MP40s, 1x MP10, 1x Vectra L1.
Definitely slow going, but almost there once the electrical is done.
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Jump Net / Screen Cover
My Top Lids screen top order just got delivered. Fitted to the Cade 1500 peninsula. Will open shortly to make sure everything looks good on it.
My Top Lids screen top order just got delivered. Fitted to the Cade 1500 peninsula. Will open shortly to make sure everything looks good on it.
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The Top Lids cover is pretty nice. It’s very lite compared to my 70 Gallon’s Clearview custom screen top -- I would say it’s nowhere near as heavy or thick -- but that could be a good thing.
Packing is fairly straightforward. Again, not as dense or reinforced as Clearview lids (aka Artfully Acrylic) were when I received it.
The screen top is split into two sections for this tank to prevent sagging in the middle. I appreciated the customer hand holding by Top Lids to get measurements and special requests just right.
After removing the packing tape and bubble wrapping I’m inspecting the mesh and finish of the overall product. The mesh is pretty good. Seems about the same quality as the Clearview screen. I do appreciate the frosting around the perimeter as well as the use of a clear piping.
Again, I keep thinking that it's not a very thick product. To be honest, I’m more comfortable with this thickness on the longer tank...I think. Definitely can't put a heavy fan on this like I do on the Clearview lid:
Did not realize how large the feed ports would be
But a good fit so far.
First half fits great:
Good lip to hold the screen securely:
I did have them cut for an Eheim feeder -- I might see if the @AVAST Marine Plank Feeder will fit.
Top Lid's provided fitted cutout covers if you don’t use the Auto Feeder ports and that’s what’s probably in this attached pouch:
yup…
Nice tight fit in the center:
I like the final product overall:
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The only slightly "off" thing, or nit, and this is probably my fault, is that the second piece slightly over-hangs on the front end of the peninsula. It’s so slight I don’t truly notice:
The side measurements are spot on…trying to show that in this blurry image of the side straight down:
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I did get a couple of Feed trays that slide into the feed ports of the lid. That box looks like it got into a few brawls on the way here…
Stuff inside looks undamaged. Top Lids really packed a ton of bubble wrap into this box.
Eheim Auto Feeder insert:
And one frozen feeder insert.
This thing is seriously massive. Could drop in a whole tray of Rod’s Food into it!
The frozen tray fits great. Even the port cover fits into it nicely which is a nice touch.
One issue...
The Eheim feeder fits into the port but is too tall. Seems both myself and the Top Lids consultant didn’t consider where the Cade 1500 S/P's return outlet is in relation to things sticking down past the surface:
Well…this one’s a bummer.
Overall though it's slick. A nice upgrade from the aluminum frame one piece that comes with the Cade.
Very happy with this purchase.
Packing is fairly straightforward. Again, not as dense or reinforced as Clearview lids (aka Artfully Acrylic) were when I received it.
The screen top is split into two sections for this tank to prevent sagging in the middle. I appreciated the customer hand holding by Top Lids to get measurements and special requests just right.
After removing the packing tape and bubble wrapping I’m inspecting the mesh and finish of the overall product. The mesh is pretty good. Seems about the same quality as the Clearview screen. I do appreciate the frosting around the perimeter as well as the use of a clear piping.
Again, I keep thinking that it's not a very thick product. To be honest, I’m more comfortable with this thickness on the longer tank...I think. Definitely can't put a heavy fan on this like I do on the Clearview lid:
Did not realize how large the feed ports would be
But a good fit so far.
First half fits great:
Good lip to hold the screen securely:
I did have them cut for an Eheim feeder -- I might see if the @AVAST Marine Plank Feeder will fit
.
Top Lid's provided fitted cutout covers if you don’t use the Auto Feeder ports and that’s what’s probably in this attached pouch:
yup…
Nice tight fit in the center:
I like the final product overall:
__
The only slightly "off" thing, or nit, and this is probably my fault, is that the second piece slightly over-hangs on the front end of the peninsula. It’s so slight I don’t truly notice:
The side measurements are spot on…trying to show that in this blurry image of the side straight down:
__
I did get a couple of Feed trays that slide into the feed ports of the lid. That box looks like it got into a few brawls on the way here…
Stuff inside looks undamaged. Top Lids really packed a ton of bubble wrap into this box.
Eheim Auto Feeder insert:
And one frozen feeder insert.
This thing is seriously massive. Could drop in a whole tray of Rod’s Food into it!
The frozen tray fits great. Even the port cover fits into it nicely which is a nice touch.
One issue...
The Eheim feeder fits into the port but is too tall. Seems both myself and the Top Lids consultant didn’t consider where the Cade 1500 S/P's return outlet is in relation to things sticking down past the surface:
Well…this one’s a bummer.
Overall though it's slick. A nice upgrade from the aluminum frame one piece that comes with the Cade.
Very happy with this purchase.
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Surge Protection
I want a solid surge protector and a single point of entry so that my battery backup can power everything if needed. In Southern California we have issues with fire, heat, and rolling blackouts. Although the grid has gotten stronger in socal. No power outages yet even with the massive heat wave we had a couple weeks ago.
The California Independent Systems Operator has a great iOS app to monitor the grid, and provide a lot of up to the minute energy data.
In any case, I wanted a good 3500 joule power protector that wasn’t too Expensive. And I found one from Amazon Basics that seemed pretty good:
Amazon Basics 12-Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector | 4,320 Joule, 10-Foot Cord https://a.co/d/4toE58Z
I wanted to mount this up off the ground.
The trace, paper and pencil rub is my go to…
I want a solid surge protector and a single point of entry so that my battery backup can power everything if needed. In Southern California we have issues with fire, heat, and rolling blackouts. Although the grid has gotten stronger in socal. No power outages yet even with the massive heat wave we had a couple weeks ago.
The California Independent Systems Operator has a great iOS app to monitor the grid, and provide a lot of up to the minute energy data.
ISO Today
Monitor California ISO power grid conditions, prices and renewable production, receive alerts and track calendar events with this free mobile application. ISO Today brings the world of energy data and news to your fingertips. Features: • Monitor available resource adequacy capacity to identify...
apps.apple.com
In any case, I wanted a good 3500 joule power protector that wasn’t too Expensive. And I found one from Amazon Basics that seemed pretty good:
Amazon Basics 12-Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector | 4,320 Joule, 10-Foot Cord https://a.co/d/4toE58Z
I wanted to mount this up off the ground.
The trace, paper and pencil rub is my go to…
OP
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Mounting this was a pain in the butt since I’m using small bolts with a nut on the inside of the plastic wall. But using scotch tape to hold down the bolt on the inside helped…solid mount:
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Love these 3M releasable zip ties:
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Electrical wires and runs almost complete… taking much longer than I hoped. I want to get these wires all tidied up before moving the tank into position.
even trying to tag wires…
even trying to tag wires…
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Ecotech Vortech driver mounts added to the inside of the door. I forgot the Vortechs don’t come with driver wall mounts…a bit odd. The L2 pump driver had a mount.
anyways…used a cheapo laser level to not mess with rulers and marks.
anyways…used a cheapo laser level to not mess with rulers and marks.
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These Vortech mounts are great quality and fit snug so the drivers aren’t rattling when I open and close the door. I found them on Amazon, off all places, when I was doing a Google search for 3D printed mounting brackets.
Extremely inexpensive for a set of four. Seems to be some left:
HorseRack 4 Pack Bulk Ecotech Marine Vortech Controller Bracket Mount https://a.co/d/9TMdldt
Extremely inexpensive for a set of four. Seems to be some left:
HorseRack 4 Pack Bulk Ecotech Marine Vortech Controller Bracket Mount https://a.co/d/9TMdldt
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Doing the first leak test on the bulkheads of the overflow chamber this morning. Figured I can poor a bit over a gallon of RO water and let that sit for a few hours while I’m at work:
Closing the gate valve for the main overflow for now.
Pouring right around the drains….
And then letting this water sit for a couple hours to ensure that any leaks have time to reveal themselves.
I’m wondering if I should put in more water to increase pressure?
I am anxious to test out the main pipes too…cause I got all my weird bends and joints….
I'll update in a few hours...
Closing the gate valve for the main overflow for now.
Pouring right around the drains….
And then letting this water sit for a couple hours to ensure that any leaks have time to reveal themselves.
I’m wondering if I should put in more water to increase pressure?
I am anxious to test out the main pipes too…cause I got all my weird bends and joints….
I'll update in a few hours...
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And no leaks the day after. So the bulkheads under the overflow are good. Now I need to test the pipes.
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Also just received my new DOS. Seriously heavy and hefty. Definitely bigger stepper than I was expecting. But similar in size if I put two Versas or two BRS 1.1ml dosers together.
Going with these for the main Alk and Ca dosing.
Going with these for the main Alk and Ca dosing.
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The DOS is pretty large and was too large to fit into the electronics side of the cabinet. So I mounted it to the “chiller” side. I think I’ll use this entire area for all of the tank’s dosing and additive equipment.
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Building some CaribSea Life Rock Tonga branches. Goal here is to build some structure that leads to the front of the tank from the rear (where the overflow resides). The rear is where I want to place my current displays rock and coral and then have the rock lean toward the front.
I’m using thin liquid CA glue with crushed Marco rock dust to quickly build out and solidify the joints. Then I went back in with E-Marco Mortar to add more stability and seal some joint sections. Impressed with the powder with thin CA glue.
I’m thinking this will be the looking down the length of the tank:
and top down…hopefully it hold solid.
I’m this provides coral placement, and fish blinds.
I’m using thin liquid CA glue with crushed Marco rock dust to quickly build out and solidify the joints. Then I went back in with E-Marco Mortar to add more stability and seal some joint sections. Impressed with the powder with thin CA glue.
I’m thinking this will be the looking down the length of the tank:
and top down…hopefully it hold solid.
I’m this provides coral placement, and fish blinds.
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