Inquiry of gap between lumber in a new built wood stand

RichardL

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Hi R2Rers! I am new to reef world and this is my first post.

After seeing a lot of diy fish tank stand by 2*4 thread/video, I decided also do one for my Aqueous 35 gallon cube. To be honest, this was my first time with the lumber, so I began to search how to use power tool right before I began to build it. After 2 hours studying for how to use power tools and 2 hour drilling, the stand looks like this:
IMG_9433.jpeg



And then the problem came to me. Since I asked Home Depot employee to help me cut the lumber into desired size, there is some small difference in the length, about 3mm. Therefore, there is a gap between support wood and the top frame:
IMG_9435.jpeg
IMG_9436.jpeg



I guess most of people who build this kind of stand has tools to cut the lumber into same length, so they don't have such problem. Therefore I didn't find solution online. I went back to Home Depot and an employee in Paint area ask me to use wood glue:
IMG_9719.jpeg



However, no matter how much glue I put in, after 1 hour, the glue will be absorbed (I am not sure but anyway they disappear). Finally, the gap looks like this:
IMG_9692.jpeg
IMG_9694.jpeg



I did't think it has any support, so I went back Home Depot again and this time a senior employee in Paint area told me I should use wood filler instead:
IMG_9720.jpeg



I used a bank card as putty knife to push the filler into the gap. After 24 hours, the filler dry. However, I see some crack....
IMG_9717.jpeg
IMG_9718.jpeg





It is too difficult for a new DIYer... I would like to ask:
1. Is this crack a problem? If yes, what should I do?
2. Back to the very beginning, although there is a gap on top of the minor support lumber, the 4 longest 2*4 lumbers (they are directly connect the tank and floor) are in the same length. Are they enough for a 35 gallon tank?


Thanks for any reply! I hope I can finish it and don't give up the reef hobby at the very beginning...
 

The_Paradox

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It’s not a problem. The first 2x4 could/can carry 5x the weight you need by itself. That type of wood putty offers no appreciable strength in compression. In the future or for others, you would want to dam the joint with tape and fill with epoxy. Either way, you are fine. Slam some 3/4 ply on top and call it a day.
 

paintman

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Yes this stand is way over bulit for a 35 cube, you'll be fine. Just as an FYI.....Most of the guys that work in the wood section at Home Depot are failed self employed contractors. This looks like a perfect example of not cutting all the boards on one side of the marked line or the other. That gap is probably the same size as the width of the circular blade.
 
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RichardL

RichardL

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It’s not a problem. The first 2x4 could/can carry 5x the weight you need by itself. That type of wood putty offers no appreciable strength in compression. In the future or for others, you would want to dam the joint with tape and fill with epoxy. Either way, you are fine. Slam some 3/4 ply on top and call it a day.
Yes I put a ply on top, just want to show the inside structure of the first 2*4 so I put a picture before I put the top ply. Thank you!
IMG_9432.jpeg
 
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RichardL

RichardL

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Looks good! Now go enjoy it and stop worrying. :cool:
Thanks! Another quick question, I saw a lot of people use this design. I wonder why the green one are not long enough to connect the top and the floor? If I built my stand is this way, then the green lumber can not provide support right?
 

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The_Paradox

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Thanks! Another quick question, I saw a lot of people use this design. I wonder why the green one are not long enough to connect the top and the floor? If I built my stand is this way, then the green lumber can not provide support right?

It’s because they are dumb. :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:

Doing it that way does increase compressive strength, but not as much as it could. It’s mostly providing torsional strength in that configuration. It’s pretty moot though as you could build a stand with only two vertical 2x4s that would hold hundreds of gallons.
 

RocketEngineer

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It’s because they are dumb. :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:

Doing it that way does increase compressive strength, but not as much as it could. It’s mostly providing torsional strength in that configuration. It’s pretty moot though as you could build a stand with only two vertical 2x4s that would hold hundreds of gallons.

You might want to ask the guy who wrote the article. He may have a reason that you don’t understand. Like not wanting the screws to be torqued upward if you build it wrong and the greens hit first.
 

RocketEngineer

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Thanks! Another quick question, I saw a lot of people use this design. I wonder why the green one are not long enough to connect the top and the floor? If I built my stand is this way, then the green lumber can not provide support right?
The greens aren’t intended to provide support. That’s what the purple pieces do.
 

The_Paradox

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You might want to ask the guy who wrote the article. He may have a reason that you don’t understand. Like not wanting the screws to be torqued upward if you build it wrong and the greens hit first.

I guess him assuming the craftsmen has the skills of Hellen Keller is valid. Would still sister what I’m guessing would be a 1x2 to the yellow then.
 
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RichardL

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I have one new question, I just find that the wood floor indoor is very un-level. After I put some wood shims, the frame finally becomes even and not wobble. However, when I put some water into the tank, the lowest corner is 1/2 inch lower than the highest corner. My question is, can I only put wood shims on the corner but not on the bottom beam/edge wood?
 
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Looks good! Now go enjoy it and stop worrying. :cool:
I have one new question, I just find that the wood floor indoor is very un-level. After I put some wood shims, the frame finally becomes even and not wobble. However, when I put some water into the tank, the lowest corner is 1/2 inch lower than the highest corner. My question is, can I only put wood shims on the corner but not on the bottom beam/edge wood?
 

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I have one new question, I just find that the wood floor indoor is very un-level. After I put some wood shims, the frame finally becomes even and not wobble. However, when I put some water into the tank, the lowest corner is 1/2 inch lower than the highest corner. My question is, can I only put wood shims on the corner but not on the bottom beam/edge wood?

Use as many composite shims as needed. Settling will occur no matter what though. The stand should be level but what’s more important is that the tank is supported.
 

RocketEngineer

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I guess him assuming the craftsmen has the skills of Hellen Keller is valid. Would still sister what I’m guessing would be a 1x2 to the yellow then.

I had assumed folks building this type of stand didn’t have more than basic tools and designed it accordingly. There’s no need for additional boards.
 

RocketEngineer

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I have one new question, I just find that the wood floor indoor is very un-level. After I put some wood shims, the frame finally becomes even and not wobble. However, when I put some water into the tank, the lowest corner is 1/2 inch lower than the highest corner. My question is, can I only put wood shims on the corner but not on the bottom beam/edge wood?

I personally like cedar shingles for wedges under a tank as they are wider, thicker, but easily scored and snapped once in place.
 
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