Ink bird users please

[jezz2001uk]

Please could I have some advice from those ink bird users, I've been using the ink bird on my Evo 13G for a few months, very peace of mind and allowed me to holiday while checking the temperature and remotely putting on the fan as required.

yesterday I moved everything to my upgraded tank with sump. All ther parameters matched, the nicrew 300w was set at 26°C but the ink bird alarmed at 4am in the morning showing the tank temperature at 24.5°c

My inkbird was meant to turn the heater on at 25.5 until 26 and I am unsure what went wrong..... did we have a power cut, I really don't think so.

Does the nicrew not work sufficiently or should i have the nicrews temperature set a lot higher

probes are reading from above inside my tank the nicrew is in the sump outlet side.

At 4am I added my eheme 75w heater to get the heat up which I was told wouldn't be sufficient for my tank size but kept for salt mixing, I guess I will keep it plugged into the ink bird as a back up like BRS advise

Any more advice on settings and set up having an ink bird connected to my tank with sump much appreciate

 

[The_Paradox]

So to clarify you have the Inkbird turning in and off the actual heater? I would set it up so that the heater stays on that way you have double redundancy and you are not constantly power cycling the heater. Then set the Inkbird to 2 degree greater range than the actual heater. That should solve your original problem as I’m guessing that your heater just doesn’t have the resolution to heat fast enough to hold 0.5dregee of your set temperature.

 

[jezz2001uk]

So to clarify you have the Inkbird turning in and off the actual heater? I would set it up so that the heater stays on that way you have double redundancy and you are not constantly power cycling the heater. Then set the Inkbird to 2 degree greater range than the actual heater. That should solve your original problem as I’m guessing that your heater just doesn’t have the resolution to heat fast enough to hold 0.5dregee of your set temperature.

Do you mean bypass the ink bird plug and plug heaters direct into the wall?

 

[The_Paradox]

Do you mean bypass the ink bird plug and plug heaters direct into the wall?

No. The heater should be plugged into the heater/output of the Inkbird. The Inkbird needs to be set with a wider temperature range than the heater though. That way the heater itself regulates the temperature and the Inkbird acts as a failsafe.

 

[twentyleagues]

My ink birds ( I have 2) have a temp discrepancy of about 1.5f one is new one is a couple years old.

 

[The_Paradox]

My ink birds ( I have 2) have a temp discrepancy of about 1.5f one is new one is a couple years old.

You mean they read high/low? If so the models I have you can calibrate to match whatever temperature gauge you use.

 

[twentyleagues]

You mean they read high/low? If so the models I have you can calibrate to match whatever temperature gauge you use.

yeah mine can too they read higher then actual temp. I tried the adjustment didnt work well so I just set them at 78.5f I want my reef at about 76.5-77f

 

[exnisstech]

I run 3 tanks with inkbirds. I only use titanium heaters and let the inkbirds control all the heaters. I also run two heaters in each tank for redundancy. I stopped trusting heaters with built in temp controllers years ago after having too many fail. I've been running this way for years.

 

[twentyleagues]

I run 3 tanks with inkbirds. I only use titanium heaters and let the inkbirds control all the heaters. I also run two heaters in each tank for redundancy. I stopped trusting heaters with built in temp controllers years ago after having too many fail. I've been running this way for years.

same

 

[The_Paradox]

I run 3 tanks with inkbirds. I only use titanium heaters and let the inkbirds control all the heaters. I also run two heaters in each tank for redundancy. I stopped trusting heaters with built in temp controllers years ago after having too many fail. I've been running this way for years.

I use titanium heaters but let their controller regulate temperature with the Inkbird acting as a failsafe. With the setup you mentioned you have no redundancy. Also if you’re not running standalone heaters it’s not good to power cycle them constantly.

 

[exnisstech]

I use titanium heaters but let their controller regulate temperature with the Inkbird acting as a failsafe. With the setup you mentioned you have no redundancy. Also if you’re not running standalone heaters it’s not good to power cycle them constantly.

The redundancy I'm speaking of is if a heater fails I have a second that keeps the water warm. Running a heater with a built in controller is not a redundancy to me it's a point of failure. JMO

 

[The_Paradox]

The redundancy I'm speaking of is if a heater fails I have a second that keeps the water warm. Running a heater with a built in controller is not a redundancy to me it's a point of failure. JMO

I get it. Was meant more for OP who has a controllable heater which should not be cycled. In your case it’s a single point of failure. If the pyro/relay/controller goes out in the Inkbird the heater can run away.

 

[exnisstech]

I get it. Was meant more for OP who has a controllable heater which should not be cycled. In your case it’s a single point of failure. If the pyro/relay/controller goes out in the Inkbird the heater can run away.

Ya there really isn't a 100 % fail proof heating system that I'm aware of, at least not at the hobby level. I kind of see your point now that I think about it tho. I assume you are using pretty good heaters with reliable thermostats. Your method would prevent an over heat issue if one controller fails on. My method only protects from a failed heater I have no protection for a stuck on controller. I may have to rethink this. This is why I love some of the discussions here. I've learned so much. Thanks

 

[The_Paradox]

Ya there really isn't a 100 % fail proof heating system that I'm aware of, at least not at the hobby level. I kind of see your point now that I think about it tho. I assume you are using pretty good heaters with reliable thermostats. Your method would prevent an over heat issue if one controller fails on. My method only protects from a failed heater I have no protection for a stuck on controller. I may have to rethink this. This is why I love some of the discussions here. I've learned so much. Thanks

I think it probably comes down to what will cause a mass die off faster in your environment. For me even with heaters off I doubt the temp would ever drop below 70 due to pumps and everything else. Even then it would take a long time. Conversely my tanks are on the chiller most of the year and will overheat quickly if a heater sticks.

 

[a.t.t.r]

Ink birds also struggle to hold calibration