I'm looking for advice on some corals to progress or better myself in this hobby:)

[Formulator]

These are my settings:
23% White, Blue, Cyan
13% Red, Green, UV
8h full light with a ramp up/down

So do I increase the light by 5% weekly or add 5% to the current intensity ? I'm I explaining this right lol

A:
(23% + 5% = 28%)

B:
( 23 + 5% = 24.15%)

I’m going to defer the specifics of this to someone with LED experience… But for a mixed reef I would try to get 300-400 PAR at the top if you can do that and still keep the sand bed under 150.

 

[SomeHappyFish]

This is the worst color grouping / channels I’ve seen in a long time

I didn’t know noop did it like this

I know right... The app needs serious work.

I’m going to defer the specifics of this to someone with LED experience… But for a mixed reef I would try to get 300-400 PAR at the top if you can do that and still keep the sand bed under 150.

I will try to get 300 par at the top and the Sand bed should be okay with a higher number.

I only have a Favia in the far left corner for now. Most gorgonians I saw during my scuba dives are in very shallow waters so they can handle high light IMO.

 

[Formulator]

For perspective I dug up my last light map. I haven’t found a coral that I can’t keep happy with strategic placement and sometimes use of overhangs for shade.

Two different periods in my tank’s lifetime to show various corals I’ve kept - same lighting.

 

[SomeHappyFish]

 

[VintageReefer]

Is there an optional controller for that light that you don’t have ?

This

Is not possible with the channels you posted.

 

[Solo McReefer]

But for a mixed reef I would try to get 300-400 PAR at the top if you can do that and still keep the sand bed under 150.

Sounds like good advice

 

[KrisReef]

These are my settings:
23% White, Blue, Cyan
13% Red, Green, UV
8h full light with a ramp up/down

So do I increase the light by 5% weekly or add 5% to the current intensity ? I'm I explaining this right lol

A:
(23% + 5% = 28%)

B:
( 23 + 5% = 24.15%)

Given the choice I would increase A and leave Channel B at 13%, or less. Red Green and UV are not going to improve growth in coral as much as they encourage growth of algae in the tank.

 

[VintageReefer]

These are my settings:
23% White, Blue, Cyan
13% Red, Green, UV
8h full light with a ramp up/down

So do I increase the light by 5% weekly or add 5% to the current intensity ? I'm I explaining this right lol

A:
(23% + 5% = 28%)

B:
( 23 + 5% = 24.15%)

Ok I figured it out

Your light is 6 channels. I don’t know why you have this labelled as A and B but you have 6 individual channels

Your par is being inflated by useless channels, and by white - which will heavily influence par, but should be used as an accent. Read on:

For ab+ as a starting point the blues and uv should be roughly 4x the others

That would be a starting point of:
Blue Cyan uv - set those to 40%
Red green white - set these to 10%

However, red and green are essentially useless because they are included in white spectrum, and to me take a tank seem weird. I would suggest

Blue Cyan uv - set those to 40%
Red green - 0
white - set these to 5-10%

Go from there

What you should be doing is using blue cyan uv to get to the desired par. Then you add in a little white and optionally very little red and green to fine tune / tweak the spectrum

 

[Formulator]

LOL, @KrisReef and @VintageReefer

Edit: maybe you guys are actually saying the same thing but I saw opposite recommendations on the UV channel without considering you were talking about the channels grouped differently.

 

[SomeHappyFish]

I confused you guys with A and B my bad.

They were to different options on how to increase lights...

Option 1:
23 + 5 = 28, then 28% + 5 = 36 and so one

Or

Option 2:

23 + 5% = 24.15, then 24 + 5% = 25.35%
Which are around 1 points up per week.

The issue is that I like the white light effect hence the settings is at 23% I don't like heavy blue tank which look like a neon party.

Changing lots of light setting might actually stress the coral also?

 

[Cichlid Dad]

I don't know, maybe some research ? 200 par seem to be considered the minimum par to be considered high par on many forum of reef2reef and on other websites...

I like that you assume that my par is 50 at the sandbed.... My tank is pretty shallow and I average 100-150 par on my sandbed because these lights are pretty strong to my surprise.

The birdnest came with this spot of algae and after dipping and brushing this algae spot keeps coming back.

My gorgonian has grown 1/4-1/2, inch on each branch, I doubt that it's dying.

What are you measuring par with? Par drop pretty fast as you go down. I have thriving zoa at 250 plus par.

 

[KrisReef]

LOL, @KrisReef and @VintageReefer

Edit: maybe you guys are actually saying the same thing but I saw opposite recommendations on the UV channel without considering you were talking about the channels grouped differently.

I’m done trying to figure out how these LED’s operate, and I think I might have misunderstood the OP’s meaning and I think myself and Vintage are both trying to give the same advice but as I mentioned before I am not sure about the capabilities to adjust the output so I am out, to reduce the volume and hopefully improve the results of the spectral output that the corals will be experiencing in the OP’s reef.

Besides I have a shrimp issue I need to resolve.

 

[SomeHappyFish]

What are you measuring par with? Par drop pretty fast as you go down. I have thriving zoa at 250 plus par.

I rented a par meter months ago and didn't touch the light since

 

[twentyleagues]

Its possible that maybe @exnisstech or @rhitee93 could help you set the noops. I know they both use them.

 

[exnisstech]

These are my settings:
23% White, Blue, Cyan
13% Red, Green, UV
8h full light with a ramp up/down

So do I increase the light by 5% weekly or add 5% to the current intensity ? I'm I explaining this right lol

A:
(23% + 5% = 28%)

B:
( 23 + 5% = 24.15%)

This is the worst color grouping / channels I’ve seen in a long time

I didn’t know noop did it like this

This doesn't look anything like the app on my android. I get the screen below and when I click edit I get another screen that allows me to set each channel individually. I'm not using beananimals profile generator so maybe the OP is?

 

[SomeHappyFish]

Its possible that maybe @exnisstech or @rhitee93 could help you set the noops. I know they both use them.

This doesn't look anything like the app on my android. I get the screen below and when I click edit I get another screen that allows me to set each channel individually. I'm not using beananimals profile generator so maybe the OP is?

I know how to set them. I just need to know by how much to increase the light % each week

It's because I use the website and import the settings with a QR code. It's WAY WAY WAY easier trust me .

Here's the website for those you wants to see it.

Noo-Psyche K7 Profile Generator | BeanAnimal's Reef

Noo-Psyche K7 profile generator can be used to generate custom QR Code lighting profiles for Noo-Psyche K7 Pro III reef aquarium LED light fixtures.

beananimal.com

 

[exnisstech]

I've read 5% a week is safe but I'm far from an expert. I have a par meter so when I first set the k7s up I just matched the par to the lights I was replacing. It's a shame the app doesn't have an acclimation mode like many do.

 

[NanoNana]

As to your gorgonian, NPS gorgonians are notorious for looking good for 6 months then croaking for no apparent reason. They are incredibly hard corals to manage. I can’t tell from that pic what gorgo that is. Typically the thin branching ones are NPS and light really isn’t a factor for them. Algae loves to grow on gorgonians even the whip varieties with flow that bends them double. The photosynthetic variety will shed like leathers to get the algae off if they are healthy. Idk if nps do that.

 

[Reefering1]

As to your gorgonian, NPS gorgonians are notorious for looking good for 6 months then croaking for no apparent reason. They are incredibly hard corals to manage. I can’t tell from that pic what gorgo that is. Typically the thin branching ones are NPS and light really isn’t a factor for them. Algae loves to grow on gorgonians even the whip varieties with flow that bends them double. The photosynthetic variety will shed like leathers to get the algae off if they are healthy. Idk if nps do that.

It looks like a dying yellow finger gorgonian.. if you look closely at the areas where algea is(not bright yellow), notice how the branches look thinner than the yellow areas. That part will drop and the recession will continue. Ime, they are just as difficult as carnation corals to keep alive. The goal is to feed enough without polluting your water. Best I've done is almost a year a half.

 

[twentyleagues]

I know how to set them. I just need to know by how much to increase the light % each week

It's because I use the website and import the settings with a QR code. It's WAY WAY WAY easier trust me .

Here's the website for those you wants to see it.

Noo-Psyche K7 Profile Generator | BeanAnimal's Reef

Noo-Psyche K7 profile generator can be used to generate custom QR Code lighting profiles for Noo-Psyche K7 Pro III reef aquarium LED light fixtures.

beananimal.com

Oh sorry I thought there were some questions raised by yourself or another member on the color mixing also.
With no acclimation mode I would do 5% per week until you hit your goal.