Ick after QT?

[AnotherGrey]

I've just finished my first QT ever after purchasing my tank 3 months ago. On the first 30 days, I quarantined my pair of clowns by giving them a formalin bath, then straight into 2 ppm copper power for 30 days. Due to my carelessness on the last day, the copper level dropped below 2ppm, so I reset the clock while adding a yellow watchman in the QT tank. After 30 days, I performed 3 50% water changes over 3 days before treating them with Prazipro for 2 weeks. After that, I did Metroplex for another 1 week on every other day. I gave the fish another 1.5 week to observe them before adding them to the DP 3 days ago. The DP tank had been empty of fish for 3 months during the QT. I'm also well-aware of the aerosol transmission shenanigans, so I got a separate set of equipment used for the DP tank and the QT tank and had been very careful not to approach the DP with wet hands or equipment. The DP tank is only 3-month old with only a few sexy shrimps and a tiger conch residing in it. Yesterday, on the second day after I put the fish in the DP tank, I noticed a white tiny spot that looks like glitter on my female clown under the blue light. Could it be ich? I don't see any weird behaviors like darting, flashing, heavy breathing, scratching, or swimming against the current from any of the fish in the tank. They looked a bit erratic in the video coz they were being fed live bbs.

Note: When I QT the fish, I didn't use any aquarium light, but rather the yellow light from my room that shines directly at the tank because it was well-lit enough for me to observe any weird spots on the fish. The blue or bright white light made it glows like glitter, but under ambience light or yellow light, I can't seem to see the spot.

If the spot doesn't disappear or move after 1 week, does it mean I'm safe?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I've just finished my first QT ever after purchasing my tank 3 months ago. In the first 30 days, I quarantined my pair of clowns by giving them a formalin bath, then straight into 2 ppm copper power for 30 days. Due to my carelessness, the copper level dropped below 2ppm, so I reset the clock while adding a yellow watchman in the QT tank. After 30 days, I performed 3 50% water changes over 3 days before treating them with Prazirpro for 2 weeks. After that, I did Metroplex for another 1 week on every other day. I gave the fish another 1.5 week to observe them before adding them to the DP 3 days ago. The DP tank has been empty of fish for 3 months during the QT. I'm also well-aware of the aerosol transmission, so I got a separate set of equipment used for the DP tank and the QT tank. The tank is only 3-month old with only a few sexy shrimps and a tiger conch residing in it. Yesterday, I only noticed a white tiny spot that looks like glitter on my female clown under the blue light. Could it be ich? I don't see any weird behaviors like darting, flashing, heavy breathing, scratching, or swimming against the current from any of the fish in the tank. They looked a bit erratic in the video coz they were being fed live bbs.

Note: When I QT the fish, I didn't use any aquarium light, but rather the yellow light from my room that shines directly at the tank because it was well-lit enough for me to observe any weird spots on the fish. The blue or bright white light made it glows like glitter, but under ambience light or yellow light, I can't seem to see the spot.

The lighting is a little dark but Opposed to ich I see what appears to be secondary bacterial lesions associated with Brooklynella which is not treatable with coppersafe and often confused with ich. You can treat with Ruby rally pro which is tank and invert safe and should clear this up. Prazi wont help either.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I can't see anything in the video. I doubt that it is ich though. Just to be safe, watch the fish for another week - if this spot either drops off and doesn't return, or stays in place for a week, then it is NOT ich. Ich spots will come and go and change location on the fish every few days.

For future reference, it is a really bad idea to give fish a high dose formalin dip right when you bring them home. It is very stressful, and the fish is already undergoing a lot of stress at that time, so it just compounds. Also, formalin dips are best used as a diagnostic tool for Neobenedenia flukes, or as a temporary control for other flukes, but it is NOT a cure.

Jay

 

[AnotherGrey]

I've just finished my first QT ever after purchasing my tank 3 months ago. In the first 30 days, I quarantined my pair of clowns by giving them a formalin bath, then straight into 2 ppm copper power for 30 days. Due to my carelessness, the copper level dropped below 2ppm, so I reset the clock while adding a yellow watchman in the QT tank. After 30 days, I performed 3 50% water changes over 3 days before treating them with Prazirpro for 2 weeks. After that, I did Metroplex for another 1 week on every other day. I gave the fish another 1.5 week to observe them before adding them to the DP 3 days ago. The DP tank has been empty of fish for 3 months during the QT. I'm also well-aware of the aerosol transmission, so I got a separate set of equipment used for the DP tank and the QT tank. The tank is only 3-month old with only a few sexy shrimps and a tiger conch residing in it. Yesterday, I only noticed a white tiny spot that looks like glitter on my female clown under the blue light. Could it be ich? I don't see any weird behaviors like darting, flashing, heavy breathing, scratching, or swimming against the current from any of the fish in the tank. They're a bit erratic in the video coz I fed them live bbs.

Note: When I QT the fish, I didn't use any aquarium light, but rather the yellow light from my room that shines directly at the tank because it was well-lit enough for me to observe any weird spots on the fish.

The lighting is a little dark but Opposed to ich I see what appears to be secondary bacterial lesions associated with Brooklynella which is not treatable with coppersafe and often confused with ich. You can treat with Ruby rally pro which is tank and invert safe and should clear this up. Prazi wont help either.

The lighting is a little dark but Opposed to ich I see what appears to be secondary bacterial lesions associated with Brooklynella which is not treatable with coppersafe and often confused with ich. You can treat with Ruby rally pro which is tank and invert safe and should clear this up. Prazi wont help either.

Unfortunately, Ruby Rally Pro isn't available anywhere in my country. Is there an alternative?
Here's a clearer video, I think. You can occasionally see the glow-up spot on the female's left body, close to the upper fin.

 

[AnotherGrey]

I can't see anything in the video. I doubt that it is ich though. Just to be safe, watch the fish for another week - if this spot either drops off and doesn't return, or stays in place for a week, then it is NOT ich. Ich spots will come and go and change location on the fish every few days.

For future reference, it is a really bad idea to give fish a high dose formalin dip right when you bring them home. It is very stressful, and the fish is already undergoing a lot of stress at that time, so it just compounds. Also, formalin dips are best used as a diagnostic tool for Neobenedenia flukes, or as a temporary control for other flukes, but it is NOT a cure.

Jay

Sorry, I didn't know that. I followed the humblefish protocols, so I gave them a formalin bath, and they seemed fine. I followed the dosage discussed on his page because formalin was supposed to cure Brooklynella? The clowns didn't show any weird behaviors during the bath either, so I just kept going with the bath for 45m.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Sorry, I didn't know that. I followed the humblefish protocols, so I gave them a formalin bath, and they seemed fine. I followed the dosage discussed on his page because formalin was supposed to cure Brooklynella? The clowns didn't show any weird behaviors during the bath either, so I just kept going with the bath for 45m.

Low dose formalin is a good treatment for Brooklynella, but high dose dips are too stressful on new fish. You can use high dose formalin after a new fish has been in your tank for 72 hours or so. 25 ppm daily baths are a good treatment for brooklynella. I would be remiss if I didn’t add that formalin is toxic to people and you need to use proper PPE and consider not using it n homes where people breath it in as it off gasses from the tank

Also, some of the Humblefish stuff I’ve seen gives formalin dips at 250 ppm or even higher. That is an error. Formalin is dosed on a time/concentration/temperature basis. 250 ppm is used on cold water fish, the highest dose that should be used on tropical fish is 167 ppm for one hour at 79 degrees with good aeration. Personally, I use 150 ppm for 45 minutes. Why does he use 250? IDK, but probably because it works out to be an easy to measure 1 ml per gallon….but easy doesn’t make it right.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Unfortunately, Ruby Rally Pro isn't available anywhere in my country. Is there an alternative?
Here's a clearer video, I think. You can occasionally see the glow-up spot on the female's left body, close to the upper fin.

Which country?

 

[AnotherGrey]

V

Which country?

Vietnam. I looked everywhere. We don't have Amazon or Ebay here, either.

 

[AnotherGrey]

Low dose formalin is a good treatment for Brooklynella, but high dose dips are too stressful on new fish. You can use high dose formalin after a new fish has been in your tank for 72 hours or so. 25 ppm daily baths are a good treatment for brooklynella. I would be remiss if I didn’t add that formalin is toxic to people and you need to use proper PPE and consider not using it n homes where people breath it in as it off gasses from the tank

Also, some of the Humblefish stuff I’ve seen gives formalin dips at 250 ppm or even higher. That is an error. Formalin is dosed on a time/concentration/temperature basis. 250 ppm is used on cold water fish, the highest dose that should be used on tropical fish is 167 ppm for one hour at 79 degrees with good aeration. Personally, I use 150 ppm for 45 minutes. Why does he use 250? IDK, but probably because it works out to be an easy to measure 1 ml per gallon….but easy doesn’t make it right.

I actually saw that comment of yours, so I followed your dosage instead of his.