How to Quarantine

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Humblefish

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@VJV There is a slightly easier way:
  1. Introduce the fish into a QT and ramp Cupramine up to 0.5 ppm.
  2. Once the copper level hits 0.5 (and stays 0.5) begin a 10 day countdown.
  3. On Day 11, transfer the fish into a non-medicated HT (holding tank) for observation. The HT must be at least 10 feet away from the QT.
This works because ich trophonts can only remain on a fish for 7 days max before dropping off, and for velvet its 4 days. The presence of copper (at therapeutic levels) shields your fish from reinfection. So while ich may still be present in the QT itself, it won't be on your fish once transferred to the HT. The upside to this method is it limits exposure time to copper poison.

You still need to observe for brook, uronema, bacterial infections, etc. in the HT - all of which will display obvious physical symptoms on the fish. You'd also still need to deworm, unless you dosed Prazipro 2x whilst the fish was undergoing copper treatment for 10 days. Not the optimal thing to do IMO but it is oft done.
 
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That is more or less what I am saying. THe difference is that I transfer the fish once the concentration is at full therapeutical level into another tank that is already at full level and keep it there for ten days. You only transfer the fish after 10 days at full therapeutic level.

I believe I will go with my method because the "ramp up" tank will be a very basic and smaller container. Therefore I want to transfer the fish into the main QT as soon as possible. And this also avoids aerosol contamination because the fish will remain for 10 days in a fully medicated tank.
 

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@Humblefish. Any special concerns or considerations in QT/medicating scorpionfish? Specifically I have a pair of "African Fancy Gumdrop Coral Croucher" (Caracanthus Madagascariensis). They are in a QT with a pair of Bluestar Leopard Wrasse so I was going to go the Cu Safe route.
 
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@Humblefish. Any special concerns or considerations in QT/medicating scorpionfish? Specifically I have a pair of "African Fancy Gumdrop Coral Croucher" (Caracanthus Madagascariensis). They are in a QT with a pair of Bluestar Leopard Wrasse so I was going to go the Cu Safe route.
There are mixed opinions on this, but I personally don't like to use Cu on Lions/scorpionfish. I personally use CP with them. If you're wanting to try copper, use a chelated Cu product such as Coppersafe.
 

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@Humblefish. I am being offered a Powder Blue Tang that has been in a tank for years and that tank did not have any additions for over one year. Would you say it would be safe to add to an aquarium? I mean, being a magnet for ich and velvet it could not have been for sibling in that tank without catching the disease right?
 
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@Humblefish. I am being offered a Powder Blue Tang that has been in a tank for years and that tank did not have any additions for over one year. Would you say it would be safe to add to an aquarium? I mean, being a magnet for ich and velvet it could not have been for sibling in that tank without catching the disease right?

No additions, including no corals/inverts/CUC?

Most people add snails/hermits every few months or a coral frag, and those could all bring in the tomont stage of ich, velvet, brook, etc.
 

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I know. But this is coming from a shopping mall display tank that is being taken down, and the company that has the service contract for that tank (owner is a friend) ensured that nothing, not even CUC, was added o that tank for almost 2y. It is a FOWLR tank.
 
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I know. But this is coming from a shopping mall display tank that is being taken down, and the company that has the service contract for that tank (owner is a friend) ensured that nothing, not even CUC, was added o that tank for almost 2y. It is a FOWLR tank.

Sounds like the risk is minimal then.
 
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@ Humblefish...thank you so much for the great write-up and info.

I did a newbie thing and didn't QT and ended up losing almost all of my fish due to ich. My 100g tank has been fallow now since 09/04/16 or about 45 days. After reading many threads online, 72 seems to be the magic number of days to keep the tank fal1low but I'll go a little longer just in case I have some kind of super ich. :confused: I think you had mentioned 76 days as well. I'm starting to gather all of my QT equipment and below are my plans. I just wanted to know your thoughts of my process. Is it an overkill to do Option B and then Option A?

Day 1 - acclimate the new fish to the 10g tank with just air stone for oxygen exchange
Day 4 - move to another 10g tank with air stone and dose Parzipro
Day 7 - move again to a 10g with new water
Day 10 - move again to a 10g with new water and dose Parzipro again
Day 13 - transfer to the 29g with HOB filter and dose it with Cupramine (or Coppersafe if you think it's better/safer)
Day 43 - move to DT if all is well

The two 10g tanks will be kept over 10 feet away from the 29g. Should I also do the hyposalinity treatment when doing option A and/or option B?

I apologize in advance if someone has already asked these questions. I only read about 20 pages of this thread but have been researching for over a week now. Your sticky was the most informative.

Equipment I have so far:
29g tank with stand
HOB filter
10g tank w/ lid and ligth
2 small heaters
Cupramine (should I buy Coppersafe as well?)
Prime
Air pumps with air stones

Equipment I need to buy:
Another 10g tank
Another stand to hold the two 10g tanks
Parzipro
CupriSorb
Vinegar
Copper Test Kit
Muriatic acid (to regenerate the CupriSorb)
Ammonia Alert
Large PVC pipes

Am I missing anything else? I also need to stock up on other medications per your "Medications to Keep on Hands" sticky.

Thanks,
TC
 

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@ Humblefish...thank you so much for the great write-up and info.

I did a newbie thing and didn't QT and ended up losing almost all of my fish due to ich. My 100g tank has been fallow now since 09/04/16 or about 45 days. After reading many threads online, 72 seems to be the magic number of days to keep the tank fal1low but I'll go a little longer just in case I have some kind of super ich. :confused: I think you had mentioned 76 days as well. I'm starting to gather all of my QT equipment and below are my plans. I just wanted to know your thoughts of my process. Is it an overkill to do Option B and then Option A?

Day 1 - acclimate the new fish to the 10g tank with just air stone for oxygen exchange
Day 4 - move to another 10g tank with air stone and dose Parzipro
Day 7 - move again to a 10g with new water
Day 10 - move again to a 10g with new water and dose Parzipro again
Day 13 - transfer to the 29g with HOB filter and dose it with Cupramine (or Coppersafe if you think it's better/safer)
Day 43 - move to DT if all is well

The two 10g tanks will be kept over 10 feet away from the 29g. Should I also do the hyposalinity treatment when doing option A and/or option B?

I apologize in advance if someone has already asked these questions. I only read about 20 pages of this thread but have been researching for over a week now. Your sticky was the most informative.

Equipment I have so far:
29g tank with stand
HOB filter
10g tank w/ lid and ligth
2 small heaters
Cupramine (should I buy Coppersafe as well?)
Prime
Air pumps with air stones

Equipment I need to buy:
Another 10g tank
Another stand to hold the two 10g tanks
Parzipro
CupriSorb
Vinegar
Copper Test Kit
Muriatic acid (to regenerate the CupriSorb)
Ammonia Alert
Large PVC pipes

Am I missing anything else? I also need to stock up on other medications per your "Medications to Keep on Hands" sticky.

Thanks,
TC

Hi there! Humble is on vacation, but I'll help you out. Your plan is very thorough. If your going to do copper, you might as well just do that coupled with prazi. It's up to you of course. Were it me, I'd do prazi + TTM and then observe for a minimum of two weeks to see if further treatment is needed. If you use copper I would suggest Coppersafe along with the API kit as it's easier on the fish IME.
 
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Sounds like the risk is minimal then.

Just got the fish and it is AMAZING! I have never seen such a fat PBT ever! Not even in nature. It looks like Mooby Dick (there's a nice name [emoji1]). It is probably 7-8inch long and a good 2 inches fat!

He is not too happy in the QT... the tank is 36inch long by 16 wide and 16 high. He is pacing back and forth. He came from a 14 feet long by 3 feet by 3 feet.

Now the bad part: before bringing the fish to me it was housed for a week in a tank with a breeding pair of clowns. That tank has had no additions (it is a aquaculture facility for clownfish and only houses the breeding pairs). HOWEVER, they use natural sea water in their tanks... the water is UV sterilized (not sure to what level...) and heated before stored, and than passes through another industrial UV before being used in the tanks.

Also, not sure if velvet or Ich are present in these cold waters on Portugal west coast... the sea here is usually between 16-18C degrees so I Wonder if these parasites are present...

Anyway, should I do a full QT? As I said, he is looking a bit agitated in such a small tank...
 
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@VJV There are cold water variants of Cryptocaryon; I've read studies on them. I would also be concerned about flukes. So, my recommendation would be to prophylactically treat for both unless you can be around the fish daily to observe for behavioral symptoms (head twitching, heavy breathing, flashing, scratching).
 
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