How to mount UV Sterilizer??

[ajremington68]

Only used a green machine off Amazon previously. Bought this Goliath off someone today and have a new quartz sleeve and UV light coming in on Monday. I have to buy the unions that screw on to the UV as well as plumb it and buy a return pump just for it and going to use it to keep ich out of my tank (run at 300gph).

Need some ideas on how to mount it, it’s a 4ft UV 40watt and no clue the circumference but I can say it’s big. Thinking hanging it with pvc pipe hangers in the top of my sump. Setting on the ground behind my stand on the concreate. Or mounting on the back of my stand in between the wall on the top part of the stand where the tank and stand meet.

Also if I plan to buy a jaebo dcw-1500 (400gph) how would I plumb that with the biggest slip fittings being 3/4in to a 1.5in - 2in fitting on the UV? Also should I buy the jaebo dcw-3500 that is 900gph and then just turn it down with the controller or just get the jaebo dcw-1500 only thought with buying bigger is I can’t turn it up to fight algae is the down side if I ever need to.

Thanks for reading this is the tank I mention in the pictures.

 

[reefsaver]

For the Jebao DCW-3500 (900 GPH)
Use 1" flexible tubing from the pump output.
Connect to a 1" to 1.5" reducer fitting.
Use a 1.5" union to connect to the UV sterilizer inlet.
I would put the UV somewhere easy to access but out of the way from knocks/kicks, above the sump or behind the system.
I'd definately use the 900 GPH because for one it's tunable and after 3 years you can crank it up a little to get the flow you started with.
I've heard 300 GPH flow rate for Ich prevention but there's a lot of info out there.

 

[ajremington68]

For the Jebao DCW-3500 (900 GPH)
Use 1" flexible tubing from the pump output.
Connect to a 1" to 1.5" reducer fitting.
Use a 1.5" union to connect to the UV sterilizer inlet.
I would put the UV somewhere easy to access but out of the way from knocks/kicks, above the sump or behind the system.
I'd definately use the 900 GPH because for one it's tunable and after 3 years you can crank it up a little to get the flow you started with.
I've heard 300 GPH flow rate for Ich prevention but there's a lot of info out there.

So be able to ramp up the 900gph for what? Thing is I check the page and it says 1500 something for alage which is a ton but the ich is like 150-250. Thing is the price difference is so minimal I wouldn’t mind getting the bigger one, only thing is I have to hope that setting 1 or 2 on the controller for the pump is around 150-250 as I won’t have a flow controller/ monitor to know exactly what it’s at.

 

[SimbaAnto]

So be able to ramp up the 900gph for what? Thing is I check the page and it says 1500 something for alage which is a ton but the ich is like 150-250. Thing is the price difference is so minimal I wouldn’t mind getting the bigger one, only thing is I have to hope that setting 1 or 2 on the controller for the pump is around 150-250 as I won’t have a flow controller/ monitor to know exactly what it’s at.

It's rated for 260 gallon.

Basically 3x of your tank size for Bacteria control and 1x of your tank size for Parasite

 

[Uncle99]

It may only sterilize parasites in the water column which may reduce numbers, but will not eradicate this pest.

It will also sterilize some of your good guy algae’s as well, which is somewhat counterproductive to the bio load processing goal.

 

[Lasse]

To have max use of it for ich defeating - have a good circulation over the substrate and put the intake as close as possible to the substrate in the DT - preferably where the bottom current causes a sediment trap. It is not wrong to oversize it - IMO

Sincerely Lasse

 

[ajremington68]

To have max use of it for ich defeating - have a good circulation over the substrate and put the intake as close as possible to the substrate in the DT - preferably where the bottom current causes a sediment trap. It is not wrong to oversize it - IMO

Sincerely Lasse

How could I do this without creating a eye sore of a hose running down the back wall of my display to get down by the substrate?

 

[Lasse]

The "ich" parasite hatch in the substrate - it is a matter of probability if the parasite manages to infect a fish or if it is sucked into the UV-C system and killed. The closer the hatching site is to the UV-C intake - the greater the probability that it will be killed by the UV-C system. If it is possible to place the pipe down to the intake in a corner, you can hide it with stone or something else. well down, close to the substrate, the suction itself can be divided into several separate ones. However, the principle is - let most of the bottom water pass the UV-C system.

Sincerely Lasse