How to controll phosphates and nitrates

[Dalton Hunter]

The problem is tap water has minerals that algae use, even if po4 is low or zero.

As fsr as phosphate removers the only one ive seen kick algaes *** is rowaphos.

I'll definitely look into this.

 

[Dalton Hunter]

Just wanted to post this to show you all some pictures of how everything is doing. I hear that flame scallops are extremely hard to keep alive but my flame scallop and electric flame scallop are still going strong a year later!

 

[Dalton Hunter]

Must be the rocks and substrate that has stored up a lot of the phosphate. Unless you have the patience to keep up with the WC and cleaning, it may be quicker to consider changing them out. You also don't want a sudden change if your corals have been at these levels for long.

How old is the tank?
Will coral be added?
How much rock(weight) is in the tank?
How quickly were fish added?

Oh my Dalton. Lots of questions come to me. How long has your tank been running? How much live rock are you using - any and approximately how many pounds? Do you have a sand bed- how deep? What does your maintenance routine entail? Are you using RO or RO-DI water? Are you replacing the evaporated water with RO or RO-DI water only ( not using SW)? Do you run a sump or a canister filter or power filter?

The water parameters are way off. The salinity is too high, as is the Alkalinity, Calcium and probably the Magnesium. Lower your salinity to 1.023, 1.024 or 1.025. If possible, use a salt mix that has lower Alk and calcium.

Has anything died recently? Are you having any algae, cyano or other problems? What amount of flow do you have?

The tank's nitrification cycle cannot handle the bioload. Too many inhabitants, overfeeding and other factors are at play. Please be prepared to work diligently, in a controlled manner and be prepared for emergencies. Hopefully you will manage it successfully and then keep everything in balance. Good luck! Others can help you as well.

Cheato and a very powerful LED grow light

Harvest some cheato once in a while. Sounds like that giant snowflake pig eel is the culprit. That's a lot of fish waste. Although it sounds like your tank is doing great. The cheato should out compete the other stuff. I had massive problems then decided to make the fuge the best place to grow algae. That we'll water sounds good. Test it with a Tds meter.

What is your phosphate level?

Are you using ro/di to water or tap?

I posted some pictures above to show you how things in the tank are looking. These were all taken within the past 3 weeks.

 

[Cory]

I posted some pictures above to show you how things in the tank are looking. These were all taken within the past 3 weeks.

Your tank doesnt have major algae issues, but a few patches on rocks that i can see. Notice how it mainly grows in "settlement areas"? That's because food and poo is stuck there and its utilizing it. I think your doing good. Rowaphos might help with that or not. Id get something effective to eat it like a sea hare.

 

[Dalton Hunter]

Your tank doesnt have major algae issues, but a few patches on rocks that i can see. Notice how it mainly grows in "settlement areas"? That's because food and poo is stuck there and its utilizing it. I think your doing good. Rowaphos might help with that or not. Id get something effective to eat it like a sea hare.

this main place I have a algae issue is on the glass. Im having to scrape the glass once every 2 days. Its not visible algae, but its like a brown tint on the glass, and when I scrape it, it accumulates. I haven't scrapped the glass in a few days. When I get off work this morning ill snag a picture of it and show you what I mean.

 

[awais98]

1:
Try Lanthanum ( seaklear) for cheaper and larger phos removal. Instead of rowsphos. Read abt lanthanum on the big forum online.
Go slow with lanthanum.

2:
Actually use rodi water

3:
Get rid of the eel

4:
Harvest chaeto often.

5:
You will be perfectly fine with half cost Instant ocean salt $39 vs 80.

6:
Get 2 turbo snails to devour the algae

7: read about carbon dosing, to keep phos and nitro down.
Will also save you $ vs GFO

8:
Time, my friend

 

[awais98]

By the way I see a power bar sitting on the floor next to the sump: GET IT AWAY!!!

 

[bblumberg]

All in all, I think that your tank looks much better than the parameters you posted would suggest. The first thing I would do is get a Triton test to determine how accurately your test kits are reflecting what is going on in the tank. To keep algae levels down, I like cerith snails as well as turbos, but be aware that the turbos may knock things over in the tank. A lawnmower blennie might make an important contribution to algae reduction.

The picture of your fuge looks more like live rock with GHA than chaeto, but it could be the photo. I'd consider replacing it with a chaeto ball for additional nutrient export. If you like the fuge the way it is, then consider adding a chaeto reactor. An algae turf scrubber might add in nutrient export, but could also put more algae back in your display tank.

I am not sure that I would venture into lanthanum or carbon dosing given how good your tank looks. Get a BRS or similar GFO reactor and run water through it slowly. I'd get rid of the bioballs in your sump - they are well-known nitrate factories. I would replace them with Siporax which will eventually give you a respectable degree of nitrate reduction via anaerobic bacteria deep in the media. It works, but takes some months to develop a respectable degree of anaerobic bacteria. The filter pads after the bioballs are probably reducing the amount of pods that get from your fuge back to the display. I'd get rid of them.

As others have said, make slow changes and give it time. The eel may have to go, but it could also be possible to balance the nutrient export. I'd try that first.

Lastly, how much red is in your light spectrum? If you have LEDs with red, I'd either remove them, or severely reduce the amount of time they are on. Same with warm white. Reduce the red which algae love, in favor of blues which corals love. Sure, algae like blue and corals like red, but your corals can get by with reduced red, whereas algae will be more growth restricted.

Good luck!

Bruce

 

[canister guy]

I always start my 2 cents off by saying im fairly new to salt. The only thing i noticed that was diff than me was your temp. I know they say 72 to 80 degrees or whatever but i keep my tank at 77.8. I have alwaysvtried to keep my tank on the colder side. Has helped me

 

[Athalus]

I also have had issues with phosphate and nitrate. I have a 275 litre tank.
Phosphate .25
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate never seems to go below 5.0 but will go up to 10.0
Salinity - 1.025 to 1.027 over a 6 month period
PH was always 8.2 But I notice once I start to use phosguard the ph always drops to around 7.8
When I use phosguard the phosphate drops to 0.05 but never 0.00
I have only 4 fish in the tank and 1 crazy bubble tip anem.
I use RO water and Redsea Coral Pro Salt
The tank is 7 months old and was started with dry rock.

My questions are these; why is it when I use phosguard to bring down phosphate that the PH drop? And what can I do about this? I have used phosguard a couple of times with the same effect.
Is the Nitrate level at 5.0 an isssue for corals (I would like to get some soon)?
Oh yes I do a water change every week 30 litres occasionally 40 if I am trying to get the nitrate lower
Thanks in advance.

 

[Desgada]

Have you tried a de- nitrate coil? Pretty easy,and cheap, to make. Might be worth looking into. I know that figuring out the cause of the issue is important, but I feel like getting them down from that high of a level is also pretty important.

 

[BoomCorals]

Algae turf scrubber?

 

[Bacon505]

I understand the school however, your tank and the inhabitants will crash and die, just like the Tang did. The eel sounds way too much/big for the tank and 60 lbs of rock isn't enough for what the tank size is and inhabitants. Don't want to stir the pot but it is a disaster waiting to happen to everything unless changes are made asap. IMO, the eel needs to go-1 year ago. Provide what is needed for the inhabitants, including the corals. If you cannot because of expense, time and just life, respect those inhabitants and sell/give them away to someone who can. You have a lifetime ahead of you and can always reef keep in the future...the inhabitants do not have the luxury in their current environment. I wish all the best...

I not sure about the eel part but about the 60lb rock for his system is inaccurate. I run my 108g with 30g sump and i only have 35-45lb of rock.

 

[Bacon505]

I dont get it, you stating that your corals and. Inhabitants are going great. The only issue i got from the reading is algae from your glass which is normal for every tank. Unless i missed something big from the reading. Your tank look fine from the pix you posted. Some patched of bryopsis which is common. Why are you so concern about your po4 and no3 when your tank show sign of growth and healthy?

 

[terri_ann]

Bacon505, a coral marine/SW tank with that high of NO3 and PO4 is simply not safe for corals, fish,etc and the tank. How his tank is set up, 60lbs of rock, running the skimmer dry vs wet, and the NO3 and PO4 shows that his tank and maintenace is not handling the nutrients. I hope this helps [emoji5]

 

[Bacon505]

I dont see anything wrong with the system base on him saying that the corals are thriving and the fish are healthy. What im trying to say is why going through all the changes just because the tests indicate high no3 or po4. Because its not in ideal range doesnt mean he has to risk everything to achieved it. On the side note, im guessing his bio balls is what caused his high po4 no3.

 

[Bacon505]

Nothing in the tank looks sick, everything is growing extremely quickly (coral wise), fish are extremely active and have incredible personality. I got a piece of acan from a friend that was thought to be dead and over the past two months the thing is developing crazy vibrant colors. Nothing is looking sick or distressed so I don't know whats going on.

If its not broken why fix it?

 

[Dalton Hunter]

Just wanted to update everyone. I did a new test today and got a reading of 3.0 for my PO4. It is slowly coming down after a hefty water change and one more PO4 absorber pad. Will post another update soon.

 

[hfa3501]

Just wanted to update everyone. I did a new test today and got a reading of 3.0 for my PO4. It is slowly coming down after a hefty water change and one more PO4 absorber pad. Will post another update soon.

I am new to this forum but have been running a FOWLR tank for several years. I just moved to a larger tank (went from 40H to a 60gal cube) and I would like to convert to a reef set-up. I too am fighting the Nitrate and Phos battle. I have managed to get the Nitrates down to a zero reading with my RedSea test kit, but the Phos haven't budged. Here are my tank specs:

60g Cube
Salinity 1.024
Alk 3.6
Nitrite - zero
Nitrate - zero
Amonia - zero
pH 8.2
Calcium 460
temp 80 degrees

I just bought a larger skimmer suitable for up to 125g tank, and I am emptying about every 2 days.
Water flow is medium and the tank as a whole has good circulation. I am running just a sump at this point - no room for refugium in my 20g sump.....

My question is, how close am I to being able to put zoas and mushrooms in? How do get a handle on that pesky Phos level?

Any input is welcome!

 

[reeferfoxx]

I am new to this forum but have been running a FOWLR tank for several years. I just moved to a larger tank (went from 40H to a 60gal cube) and I would like to convert to a reef set-up. I too am fighting the Nitrate and Phos battle. I have managed to get the Nitrates down to a zero reading with my RedSea test kit, but the Phos haven't budged. Here are my tank specs:

60g Cube
Salinity 1.024
Alk 3.6
Nitrite - zero
Nitrate - zero
Amonia - zero
pH 8.2
Calcium 460
temp 80 degrees

I just bought a larger skimmer suitable for up to 125g tank, and I am emptying about every 2 days.
Water flow is medium and the tank as a whole has good circulation. I am running just a sump at this point - no room for refugium in my 20g sump.....

My question is, how close am I to being able to put zoas and mushrooms in? How do get a handle on that pesky Phos level?

Any input is welcome!

I wouldnt try and shoot for ultra low No3 and Po4. In fact detectable N and P is good. I would shoot for NO3 of 2-10 and po4 of 0.02 to 0.08. These arent definitive numbers but a good range to keep. A lot of beneficial organisms and coral benefit from detectable nutrients in the water column. Without it they eventually die off allowing for more invasive and toxic species/algae to thrive.