How I Cipro
- Thread starter Amoo
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I often put them on top of a ceramic cup. This way I can move them without stress them DT detach them every time they need to be move.
Here is how I set up my first HT. I keep pictures of this since many people asked me about it. My Yellow Magnifica when I started treatment and when I put him back to DT. Put the mug against the rock and he just move off the cup in a few days and you can remove the mug. I really think remove them from their attachment is one of the worst thing you can do to an anemone.
Any light source will do if it is bright enough (No filament light or halogen light). That is a PC light. I have better dedicated LED light now and better heater with controller. Don't skim on the heater. The heater is the most important equipment in that tank. Your HT will not be stable unless you have good heater.
Here is how I set up my first HT. I keep pictures of this since many people asked me about it. My Yellow Magnifica when I started treatment and when I put him back to DT. Put the mug against the rock and he just move off the cup in a few days and you can remove the mug. I really think remove them from their attachment is one of the worst thing you can do to an anemone.
Any light source will do if it is bright enough (No filament light or halogen light). That is a PC light. I have better dedicated LED light now and better heater with controller. Don't skim on the heater. The heater is the most important equipment in that tank. Your HT will not be stable unless you have good heater.
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Oh I see you meant egg crate as a divider. Makes sense. Thanks for the pictures. What temperature do you normally keep the tank at? Have you noticed a difference at higher or lower temperatures? Maybe slightly lower temperatures help the anemones fight off infections better?
Hey, i know you said that cipro becomes inert in the light. is that the same for human cipro? i cant get my hands on fish cipro here in australia.. ive only got the ones for humans. Will that still be inert in the light?
OP
OP
There's no difference.
Hey, my anemone keeps producing high ammonia. i know you said 12 hour water changes should be on the first day and from then on you will let the nem stay for 24 hours. But the ammonia goes up to really high before the 24 hours. Should i still keep it in that water ?
Also.. does this treatment work if the nem is dying due to injury? I dont think he has a bacterial infection. he started dying when he got sucked into the skimmer and also the stress of it moving becus i had to remove him from tank a lot of times.
Sigh. So im having trouble keeping ammonia down.. im using display tank water as well. I do 80% water changes and within few hours ammonia is high again. Im using a 5gallon to save water. Im on day 4 treatment with increased dosage and he is getting worse
Hey guys, in need of a little advice. My anemone hasn't looked great the past few days, its mouth is exposed but not open. Tentacles deflated and it closes up often. Barely every inflated that I've seen recently. It used to look like the first 2 pics. The last one is what it looks like not, sometimes worse
I'm treating a Mertens. It looks very good, tight mouth, opened up enjoying life. I'm on 12 days of treatment. Full water change every day. Clean out all poop. 10 gallons. 250 mg cipro. 6 hours of light per day at the end of 24 hours. It is still pooping black crap. Most looks like big grains of pepper, one or two big pieces. Do I treat until he stops pooping? I'm on day 12.
interesting how we all 'fill in' the condition and 'strength' of such a primitive form or life. I think its mostly in our minds as there are only a few tell tale signs of an anemone in distress-- and 80% of the time, those symptoms are telling you that this animal is on their way to the great sea in the sky no matter what you do! I think that these are not living creatures we should realistically attempt to 'rescue' from the LFS as most looking like they are flirting with death, will indeed die. So buy a healthy specimen! And don't be tempted by color and ideas of turning it around. If its open, its disc is tight and no slim is shedding-- go for it. Settle it into where it will live out ALL its days-- I've never freshwater dipped and never suffered any consequences. If you want to incorporate your gut 'senses' into your analysis of anemone-- know what anemone like in general! If you don't, they will waste unnecessary energy trying to find that condition- of light and current that they need. Its easy if you have a dedicated anemone tank- as the existing inhabitants will TELL YOU what they like in that tank-- the depth that is preferred, the position under your lighting and the current that is most likely to set them up perfectly in position to capture prey. Some new additions will fail anyway- most will adapt and flourish. If they begin to fail, you can try quarantine/ hospital tank and experimentation with chemical compounds. But 90% will die as they are already well on the way to death. Once adapted and acclimated, anemone are remarkably hardy.
I came to ask the same question. I have giant (18"+) ritteri anemone that deflated a couple weeks after being added to my system. Today is day 8 of Cipro treatment, and the little black balls are still coming out, but not too many. Maybe a 1/2 teaspoon or less worth and less each day. In the past, gigs that have treated I feel like stopped shedding this waste material a couple days in....not sure if I keep up with treatments until no more material is expelled or to just call it as it continually inflated and we are at the >7 days part of treatment. I'll get a pic up tomorrow.
Does anyone have an online source of Cipro? I've not been able to find any through store sites. Any LFS I contact tells me that I need to get a prescription and no vet will provide one in my area for aquarium use.
Bought Ciprofloxacin here:
Fish Flox® - Ciprofloxacin - 250mg
Fish Flox (Ciprofloxacin) from Thomas Labs is a synthetic broad-spectrum antibiotic that is effective against gram-negative and some gram-positive bacterial pathogens of fish, including aeromonads, flexibacteria, and vibrios. This fish antibiotic is useful for control of some common bacterial...
www.thomaslabs.com
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