How do I know if a pump is ozone safe?

[Biff0rz]

So I bought an ozone reactor. Based on GEO's recommendations I should put the output in my sump section aimed towards the intake of my skimmer -OR- output it though my 90w lifegard UV. I bought the uv system do defeat dino, it's worked and I'm past them, but I still keep the uv running for better or worse. The thing is, I had water-borne dino which required me to run the uv as a closed-loop. I made a hang on back system to accommodate it as drilling the tank was not possible. As such, it's not easily tapped to take the output of the ozone. And if I were to do so, I'd cause balance issues in the tank as it'd essentially be another return. So it was recommended to empty the ozone to sump zone 1 near the skimmer intake IF the pump is ozone safe. I do not know how to find out this information.

I am not sure if my skimmer and skimmer pump are ozone safe...

I have a Bubble Magus curve 9 skimmer (gen 1)-

Curve 9 Protein Skimmer - Bubble Magus

Shop The Best Saltwater Aquarium Equipment & Supplies at Saltwater Aquarium. We Carry Everything you will Need for your Fish Tank.

www.saltwateraquarium.com

(mine does not have the air silencer)

And this is the pump I am using inside it-

Rock SP4000 Skimmer Replacement Pump - Bubble Magus

Shop The Best Saltwater Aquarium Equipment & Supplies at Saltwater Aquarium. We Carry Everything you will Need for your Fish Tank.

www.saltwateraquarium.com

How can I tell if the pump is ozone safe?

My final option, which, I'm not sure I will really want to do is to re-pipe the UV. Below is a diagram of the current configuration, there is a wall (drywall) between the tank and sump.

Orange = return (section 3)
Black = closed loop uv
Geo = section 4, dry, emptying into section 1 (where the skimmer is)

 

[Formulator]

Ozone is pretty powerful. I could be wrong, but I think ozone compatible pumps are made specifically for ozone applications and would be advertised as such. Probably with viton seals and other materials more resistant to oxidation. So if the pump isn’t obviously labeled for ozone, its probably not ideal.

 

[gbroadbridge]

So I bought an ozone reactor. Based on GEO's recommendations I should put the output in my sump section aimed towards the intake of my skimmer -OR- output it though my 90w lifegard UV. I bought the uv system do defeat dino, it's worked and I'm past them, but I still keep the uv running for better or worse. The thing is, I had water-borne dino which required me to run the uv as a closed-loop. I made a hang on back system to accommodate it as drilling the tank was not possible. As such, it's not easily tapped to take the output of the ozone. And if I were to do so, I'd cause balance issues in the tank as it'd essentially be another return. So it was recommended to empty the ozone to sump zone 1 near the skimmer intake IF the pump is ozone safe. I do not know how to find out this information.

I am not sure if my skimmer and skimmer pump are ozone safe...

I have a Bubble Magus curve 9 skimmer (gen 1)-

Curve 9 Protein Skimmer - Bubble Magus

Shop The Best Saltwater Aquarium Equipment & Supplies at Saltwater Aquarium. We Carry Everything you will Need for your Fish Tank.

www.saltwateraquarium.com

(mine does not have the air silencer)

And this is the pump I am using inside it-

Rock SP4000 Skimmer Replacement Pump - Bubble Magus

Shop The Best Saltwater Aquarium Equipment & Supplies at Saltwater Aquarium. We Carry Everything you will Need for your Fish Tank.

www.saltwateraquarium.com

How can I tell if the pump is ozone safe?

My final option, which, I'm not sure I will really want to do is to re-pipe the UV. Below is a diagram of the current configuration, there is a wall (drywall) between the tank and sump.

Orange = return (section 3)
Black = closed loop uv
Geo = section 4, dry, emptying into section 1 (where the skimmer is)

I've been using ozone for years and It simply enters the skimmer air inlet.

I've never concerned myself with worrying about the DC pump in the skimmer - it's a consumable item that gets replaced if it fails - hasn't in the last 3 years.

Importantly though, you need to pass the skimmer effluent over a bed of activated carbon to remove the toxic byproducts created by the ozone.

Some of the water from the sump is returned via a 40W UV - but I do not consider that an important part of the ozone equation.

 

[Biff0rz]

I've been using ozone for years and It simply enters the skimmer air inlet.

I've never concerned myself with worrying about the DC pump in the skimmer - it's a consumable item that gets replaced if it fails - hasn't in the last 3 years.

Importantly though, you need to pass the skimmer effluent over a bed of activated carbon to remove the toxic byproducts created by the ozone.

Some of the water from the sump is returned via a 40W UV - but I do not consider that an important part of the ozone equation.

UV-C neutralizes ozone so that is actually part of the equation lol. In fact, from my research, it does it a lot better and more efficiently than carbon

I've decided to plumb my ozone effluent to my 90w UV. Won't be putting it in the skimmer.

 

[Formulator]

UV-C neutralizes ozone so that is actually part of the equation lol. In fact, from my research, it does it a lot better and more efficiently than carbon

I've decided to plumb my ozone effluent to my 90w UV. Won't be putting it in the skimmer.

This is the way. It would be a good idea to get a sensor if you weren’t already planning on it. Its important to tune the flow to avoid reactive oxygen species and atomic oxygen generated in the ozone decomposition under UV from getting too far into the tank and killing good stuff.

 

[Biff0rz]

This is the way. It would be a good idea to get a sensor if you weren’t already planning on it. Its important to tune the flow to avoid reactive oxygen species and atomic oxygen generated in the ozone decomposition under UV from getting too far into the tank and killing good stuff.

Sensor as in orp? Already doing that. I set it for 375. I plumbed it so the ozone effluent goes directly to the uv then back to the first stage of my sump. I have an orp meter sitting between it and I only run it for 15m an hour per geo's recommendation. And it won't run if orp is > 375

 

[Formulator]

Sensor as in orp? Already doing that. I set it for 375. I plumbed it so the ozone effluent goes directly to the uv then back to the first stage of my sump. I have an orp meter sitting between it and I only run it for 15m an hour per geo's recommendation. And it won't run if orp is > 375

You know what you’re doing

 

[Biff0rz]

You know what you’re doing

Sweeeeet. Sometimes, ya don't know! Lol

 

[gbroadbridge]

UV-C neutralizes ozone so that is actually part of the equation lol. In fact, from my research, it does it a lot better and more efficiently than carbon

I've decided to plumb my ozone effluent to my 90w UV. Won't be putting it in the skimmer.

I don't really agree that is a good way to go.

You had better make certain that the UV device itself is ozone safe - especially since UV's have been known to fail purely due to degradation caused by UV radiation itself. Add ozone to the equation and the UV chamber may fail quite rapidly which could cause quite a mess.

There are a set of articles written by Randy about use of ozone - if you haven't read them you may wish to.

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

 

[Biff0rz]

I don't really agree that is a good way to go.

You had better make certain that the UV device itself is ozone safe - especially since UV's have been known to fail purely due to degradation caused by UV radiation itself. Add ozone to the equation and the UV chamber may fail quite rapidly which could cause quite a mess.

There are a set of articles written by Randy about use of ozone - if you haven't read them you may wish to.

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

I read them, they are a bit dated imo.

Why UV-C Cannot Produce Ozone - UV Resources

UV-C light in the 253.7nm wavelength (most common germicidal range) does not produce ozone. Most germicidal lamps, including those from UV Resources, are produced with doped quartz glass, which blocks the transmission of the 185nm ozone-producing wavelength.

uvresources.com

"Ironically, UV light in the 240 – 315nm wavelength will break this third oxygen atom attachment explained above and convert it back to oxygen. The peak ozone destruction occurs at the 254nm wavelength. So, a UV-C lamp operating at the most common 253.7nm germicidal wavelength will actually destroy ozone!"

Most ABS plastic is pretty good at handling ozone, especially if it's furniture grade abs. This chart talks about how ozone interacts with different materials-

https://www.oxidationtech.com/blog/materials-ozone-resistance-chart/

B = Good – some oxidation from ozone, these materials can work with low ozone concentrations or short-term (less than 6-month) usage.
ABS is rated B. From what I've read most folks using abs and ozone only experience some oxidation.

As for my UV lamp - it's a lifegard 90w. It has removable abs inserts that I regularly maintain. Every part is cheap and replaceable so even if I do get more than expected oxidation, I'll replace it. Geo actually recommends uv over carbon.

 

[Solo McReefer]

How are you introducing the ozone to the flow going to the UV sterilizer

Some kind of venturi?

Do you have some kind of ozone reactor?

 

[Biff0rz]

How are you introducing the ozone to the flow going to the UV sterilizer

Some kind of venturi?

Do you have some kind of ozone reactor?

I'm using this reactor which has a venturi to pull the ozone in

GEO OZ618 Ozone Reactor GEN2 | Geo's Reef

www.geosreef.com

That outputs to the uv