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highendofthelow

highendofthelow

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So I picked up my Calcium reactor timer power supply to enable me to more closely control my Calcium reactor but I cant help but feel it may not be the right bit

(For the record I've been sent a mean well GE12I07-P1J 7.5v 1.33A power supply + a secondary barrel Jack adaptor)

The adaptor is incredibly tight in the port and slightly too long so I've emailed the rep and technical to confirm if it is the correct part)

1241f8f366d01ba6ba8697ded5af98f4.jpg


Whilst there I also picked up a chunky ice fire Echinacea frag for an absolute steal, hopefully this one will last longer then the last..

e2d9c4b7ec1c258956d17bbeee2ccb04.jpg
 
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Dropped a few bits off at my friends LFS came back with a freebie browned out acropora frag, unknown colour etc.

And a new tang; a small Ctrnochaetus striatus. I needed something to make a start on the slowly growing red fuzz algae on the tank. I'm hoping being a bristle tooth itll graze the rocks a bit.

Completed a water change today as well.
 
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So the new tang is doing well, completely ignored by all other fish more or less which is excellent.

Hopefully it'll keep on top of my slow red fuzz algae, although I dont want to jinx it the cyano is also settling down it would appear which is excellent.

I got a response today from deltec and in short it's the correct part. To say I'm a little disappointed they couldn't essentially be bothered as company to find a better suited adaptor is a tad irritating considering A the cost of the unit and B the cost of the timer accessory (as above you can get the psu for ~£20 plus the price of an ill fitting adaptor, I'm certain theirs better out there)

If it helps someone heres the measurements of the pins, save yourself some money.p

a234a20e0abd4f359bcb374b15dc989a.jpg


931e285179b7b821e2329890cb50a41b.jpg


But you could almost certainly get away with an adaptor half the length.

We've now got the timer "on" and the activity lights are flashing the right colour to indicate its working as expected I'll monitor the Alkatronic output over the next 12 hours to confirm

But its wired up to an IKEA smart plug so we can now controll the lot more or less.
 
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VJM 21

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I really enjoyed reading your build thread today, and what a beautiful tank!

Sorry this is off-topic, but I was wondering if you could share the light schedule you’re using for the xr-15 in the sump. I’m hoping to set up the same system soon, and I also have an xr-15 that I won’t be using for the display.
 
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I really enjoyed reading your build thread today, and what a beautiful tank!

Sorry this is off-topic, but I was wondering if you could share the light schedule you’re using for the xr-15 in the sump. I’m hoping to set up the same system soon, and I also have an xr-15 that I won’t be using for the display.

Hi VJM 21,

Sorry for the delayed reply, we have been abroad.

Luke basically says he hasn't go a clue really in terms of the set up- it was set up years ago.

Heres a snip of it:
xr15.JPG


From this we think its one of the "natural" reef modes.

We seem to have reasonable algae growth in the sump with this schedule.

Liz

xr15.JPG


xr15.JPG


xr15.JPG


xr15.JPG


xr15.JPG


xr15.JPG


xr15.JPG
 
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VJM 21

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Hi VJM 21,

Sorry for the delayed reply, we have been abroad.

Luke basically says he hasn't go a clue really in terms of the set up- it was set up years ago.

Heres a snip of it:
xr15.JPG


From this we think its one of the "natural" reef modes.

We seem to have reasonable algae growth in the sump with this schedule.

Liz

No worries about the delay.

Thanks for sharing the graph.
 

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I just ordered a 750 XXL! Do you think MP40's or MP60's are the right powerhead? I currently have MP40's on my Reefer 450 and wondering if I need new powerheads.
 
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We always used to use MP40's, however they wont stay on the glass! MP60's would although we were worried more about the more delicate swimmers in the tank- we have seen MP60s suck delicate fish into them.

We are UK based, so connection with Apex is more........... limited. We dont get the new energy bar (Apex should sort this out as it puts us off the system tbh), and we had also heard that the wav pumps fail, but were in the running early on.

These are the things that made us choose Gyres.

I certainly miss the chaotic flow that MP40s gave us in previous tanks, but the Gyres are fine.

Liz
 
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Today's post title: you got to take the rough with the smooth

So I've been a touch quiet of recent weeks and I'll be honest, since coming back from holiday I've not had much motivation for the tank for various reasons

We're down to just 5 anthias currently from our previous 7, we lost the two weakest/smallest shortly after coming back from holiday, 1 from what I think was a gyre strike and 1 just disappeared. The fish were a touch thin so I can only assume they weren't fed enough whilst we were away.

We also came back to a pretty bad cyano bloom, now I saw this creeping up before we left and this is party why we've ramped up the number of water changes and the tank is now looking pretty ugly, the corals/sps are doing fine theres just a thick blanket of cyano, the red fuzz/turf algae is also increasing at a slightly alarming rate on some of the rock, it seems to be trapping the detritus more which in turn feeds more growth and more cyano.

To try and combat this we added a small magnificent fox face and a tiger tail sand sitting goby however the goby just disappeared on day 2 and hasn't been seen since, and is presumed dead.

I suspect I have to cause for the increase I. Algae growth

Firstly dosing vibrant did a Brilliant job and killing off the bubble algae we brought in on frags from previous set ups but it seems to have "upset the balance" alittle
my algae bed in the sump is also looking pretty sorry for itself, alot fo detritus/ died back algae (ether it mini crashed and / or the vibrant was too much for it and killed it off)

Secondly my calcium reactor has been on now for a few months pretty much rock solid but I cant help but notice my issues seemed to start when that came on line, although I haven't confirmed it I suspect its pumping phosphates in from the arm media, this was to be expected to a degree but now it's starting to need some further investigation.

I strongly suspect my nitrates are low by my phosphates are high,

I can't however confirm my phosphates and nitrates currently because my test kits are out of date, I've ordered some more.

Now I'm not currently running any form of
phosphate removal media but suspect I may have to start actively employing something especially if my effluent from the Ca reactors phosphates are higher then the tanks, I've got a bottle of lanthium chloride which I may start dosing.

For the time being I've started actively blowing the rocks off and sand where I sensibly can, each water change I'm trying to clean the sump out alittle more but I'm tempted to bin the current algae, and replace it with some new, I'll probably look to add another sand shifter as this helped my previous tank no end.

I'm sure its largely seasonable and I'm sure we can get in top of it but for now it's a touch unsightly... least the SPS seem alright.
 
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highendofthelow

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Well that wasn't really that much of a suprise.

Today we received my Hanna Ultra Low Phosphorous reagents to check my Phosphates, after blowing the dust off the box I just ran my first test and they've come in at around 0.15 ppm, which isnt a suprise at all, although I havent had a chance to check my nitrates yet (no in date testkits to hand) but i'd be pretty suprised if they were above 2ppm if not near undetectable.

Interestingly I've been taking a calculated risk by dosing 2/3's the max dose for my tank of lanthium chloride, and although the cyano hasnt exactly disappeared, it doesnt seem to be growing back on the rocks quite so quickly, I'm also seeing some colour changes (for the better) on some of the SPS pieces which I've always put down to lack of water changes but evidently it looks like it was higher phosphates that was masking some of the colour perhaps.

I'd like to test my nitrates before I do much more but if they are ultra low I may actually dose some potassium nitrate + some bacteria (which I've done on previous tanks) to rebalance the phosphates and increase the bacterial count.

I'll continue to run a few more days of lanthium chloride and retest to see if i'm net decreasing or increasing still etc,

Luke.
 
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I run hannah ulr and test 20-4 typically 5-10 ppm nitrate . My stuff seems to grow better then when i run 0

We have had this issue before in previous tanks. I fully agree, I would be very surprised if my Nitrates aren't very low which will prevent the bacteria removing the phosphates from being removed as efficiently. I read somehwere it takes 7x the amount nitrate to phosphate for bacterial removal. It does seem to be accepted in the SPS community now that nitrate of about 5 with low phosphates makes for sucess.

Assuming the nitrates are actually low, I will probably start some nitrate dosing. It doesnt help that I have a hate of phosphate removal media. It probably does hold us back but hey ho.
 
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