Help with sump , pipe setup 125 build

[Addicted2Reef’n]

I have ran my 36 gallon HOB Filter reef tank successfully for past year, I have slowly over that time watched marketplace and I traded for a 125 gallon reef ready tank w dual overflows that are placed evenly in middle back glass pane each third of the tank . Not corner flows . I am interested in plumbing my system for function first and quietest operation. I will use many connections like I’ve seen on YouTube to make maintenance doable for removing pipe etc.
I haven’t checked but thinking I could buy the Aqueon accessories kit with the included plumbing ? Shld I do that and then customize it some by adding ball valves or such for slowing the draining water as well as return pump ?
Please leave an opinion even if I don’t see the way you do it will still be in mind when I make a decision and May tweak the end result you never know .
Thx
Joe

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[Cichlid Dad]

Is your tank an aqueon tank? The reason I ask is if not you need to make sure it is compatible with your tank. More than likely it would be, but I would make sure. The aqueon tank is easily identified by the pattern on the over flow, it's textured with an H pattern

 

[Pickle_soup]

Just my opinion, but I think some people overcomplicate things when it comes to plumbing. Why do you feel like you need to do maintenance on your plumbing? When it comes to this aspect of the setup keep it simple-stupid. I wouldn't put a valve on the drain pipe. Return, that's a different story, but on my newest setup, I don't even have that. On my old system, I did not touch plumbing for 10 years, there was no need to. If you ever tear get a new sump or anything like that, you make your adjustments then, but why spend unnecessary money and complicate your life?

 

[Daddio64]

Where are you putting the sump, how long is the run? Are you doing a simple sump with skimmer in it. How serious are you getting, dosers? In my opinion don't over think it. If it's a short run ball valve on the drain and I prefer one way valve on the return with a ball valve above it. I have flexible to hard pipe to get a little flex. Only 1 union cause the flexible I can hose clamp and remove easily. The union is for the drain where it's all hard pipe to a roller. I'm in a rental so modifying the house for the tank has to be minimal. I am running the reactor with denigrate not helping much though.

 

[Pickle_soup]

Where are you putting the sump, how long is the run? Are you doing a simple sump with skimmer in it. How serious are you getting, dosers? In my opinion don't over think it. If it's a short run ball valve on the drain and I prefer one way valve on the return with a ball valve above it. I have flexible to hard pipe to get a little flex. Only 1 union cause the flexible I can hose clamp and remove easily. The union is for the drain where it's all hard pipe to a roller. I'm in a rental so modifying the house for the tank has to be minimal. I am running the reactor with denigrate not helping much though.

Pretty nice an simple.

 

[Daddio64]

I will say I under estimated the size of the roller and had cut and modify the sump with a die grinder and cutting wheel. Not for the faint of heart.

 

[Daddio64]

Oh one other thing, if there's a local hardware store I'd just go there. When it comes to plumbing whether it's the tank or the house I don't think I've ever done a job in one trip

 

[Addicted2Reef’n]

Is your tank an aqueon tank? The reason I ask is if not you need to make sure it is compatible with your tank. More than likely it would be, but I would make sure. The aqueon tank is easily identified by the pattern on the over flow, it's textured with an H pattern

Hell yea thanks for the info ! I definitely need to ID my exact tank if I’m buying a wholesale plumbing kit. The one on Amazon seems like it’s pretty universal as long as you have a hole that is 3/4 and 1”.

 

[Addicted2Reef’n]

Just my opinion, but I think some people overcomplicate things when it comes to plumbing. Why do you feel like you need to do maintenance on your plumbing? When it comes to this aspect of the setup keep it simple-stupid. I wouldn't put a valve on the drain pipe. Return, that's a different story, but on my newest setup, I don't even have that. On my old system, I did not touch plumbing for 10 years, there was no need to. If you ever tear get a new sump or anything like that, you make your adjustments then, but why spend unnecessary money and complicate your life?

I agree I don’t have unnecessary money to spend haha. I like your outlook and that’s why I want something simple and functional . The reason I wld put a valve or similar on the drains is to adjust them if I am getting noise or to slow speed to match the return. I wld also put on the return.

 

[Addicted2Reef’n]

Where are you putting the sump, how long is the run? Are you doing a simple sump with skimmer in it. How serious are you getting, dosers? In my opinion don't over think it. If it's a short run ball valve on the drain and I prefer one way valve on the return with a ball valve above it. I have flexible to hard pipe to get a little flex. Only 1 union cause the flexible I can hose clamp and remove easily. The union is for the drain where it's all hard pipe to a roller. I'm in a rental so modifying the house for the tank has to be minimal. I am running the reactor with denigrate not helping much though.

I am currently running kalkwasser in the ATO which I’ve heard is not the best but o well that’s what I got now. The tank came with a 4 chamber doser container and a dosing unit but the unit is missing controller and looks a little old. I will list a detailed breakdown of what I want when home but for now I wld say a 4 chamber sump. First chamber for drains to filters and small area for my Reel Octopus 2000 HOB skimmer to draw water out of that Chamber and return to chamber 2 where I have a Bubble Magnus curve 7 that will sit in. From there goes to chamber 3 where I want a legit refugium bc I’m into the science biology geeking out part most out of this hobby lol. Finally into return pump chamber where I got a syncra 5.0 silent sicce pump. All the gear I listed came with tank and I have tested and works

 

[Addicted2Reef’n]

This is my working room within my fish stand . Inside layout is 62 1/2” long and 17 1/2 depth front to back . 2 doors on it open 17”across and 21” high .

 

[Daddio64]

That all sounds good, put it together say a prayer and fire it up. As far as the drain valve do what you like but with the dual overflow should have no problem keeping up with the in flow and that's the valve you'd need to slow down if drain isn't keeping up, you'll just drain your sump through the top of the tank. I can't think of a reason to stop the drain. Your sump has to have enough room for the tank to get below the overflow. It's the return that might be too low and the siphon when power goes out you may not have room for in the sump. Hence the one way on the return side. Please don't ask how I know that.