Help with Clownfish llaying down

[Cyborg_Vole]

Hi, I was hoping someone could help me with my clown fish. New to the tank as I bought it alomgside another and one has taken to staying at the bottom of the sandbed and not moving much.
If provoked it will swim but is "wobbly" if thats the right term for it.

Ive got some pictures and hopefully a video thatll help see. A few things to note, Im not able to see blemishes or marks on the fish and havnt witnessed any aggressive behaviour from the royal grammer that is its tank mate. Im unsure what the issue is

 

[Sharkbait19]

How new is the tank? What are the current parameters? How strong is the flow?
There’s a number of things that could cause issues in a new, young fish.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi, I was hoping someone could help me with my clown fish. New to the tank as I bought it alomgside another and one has taken to staying at the bottom of the sandbed and not moving much.
If provoked it will swim but is "wobbly" if thats the right term for it.

Ive got some pictures and hopefully a video thatll help see. A few things to note, Im not able to see blemishes or marks on the fish and havnt witnessed any aggressive behaviour from the royal grammer that is its tank mate. Im unsure what the issue is

Fish looks a little thin.
Has it been eating?
Is fish breathing normal or labored?
I see signs of cyano bacteria which is often associated with high phos and nitrate levels. What is your ammonia level and how are you testing it?
This fish being thin, may be losing strength and getting moribund in which it is losing ability to eat or swim normal

 

[Cyborg_Vole]

Thank you both for getting back so quickly, the Nitrates are 35ppm and Phosphates are 2ppm. I have been struggling with cyano since I first cycled the tank around three months ago. The tank has just finished its third month and the is okay, based on the basic pump from the fluval evo. At sand level its poor but mid level its ok
The clownfish has been eating up until just now when I tried to feed the tank, it showed no interest in the food being offered.
Amonia, I was testing using a Salifer kit but had a disaster with the kit and am waiting on a new one to arrive in the post.
Thank you again

 

[Cyborg_Vole]

Thank you both for getting back so quickly, the Nitrates are 35ppm and Phosphates are 2ppm. I have been struggling with cyano since I first cycled the tank around three months ago. The tank has just finished its third month and the is okay, based on the basic pump from the fluval evo. At sand level its poor but mid level its ok
The clownfish has been eating up until just now when I tried to feed the tank, it showed no interest in the food being offered.
Amonia, I was testing using a Salifer kit but had a disaster with the kit and am waiting on a new one to arrive in the post.
Thank you again

Just an update, when I was dping the testing I noted him switching and swimming erratically. Now he is no longer breathing or moving

 

[vetteguy53081]

Just an update, when I was dping the testing I noted him switching and swimming erratically. Now he is no longer breathing or moving

sorry to hear and as mentioned- Moribund which is often a road to death.
For cyano. . . . . Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.