Help! I don’t know what I’m doing!

[nursebran]

I’ve seen these but read mixed reviews .
do they work?
Will they alarm later in a established system ?

It has for me. I wondered on my DT because it never turned colors. But, all my other values were also saying 0. But, I got a second 1 for my quarantine tank and it “alarm green!” I mean.., clearly (not yellow) ... no wondering, GREEN! lol
Double checked with my strips and api kit. I like the Salifert and Red Sea kits best. But, I have a reef tank and I know most stores don’t carry either. Plus, for someone starting out, it’s overkill. Anyway, I really like the little seachem badges. It’s easy and gives you a quick heads up (that somethings wrong.) And, it’s not tricky.., like guessing the shade of a liquid/API kind. I can say, I try to go by the directions and it says to change it every 6 months (whether it turns/alerts, or not.) So far, so good.

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

If it was true live rock then it’s likely not a cycling issue as everyone above is mentioning as that would cover any ammonia issues from standard respiration and feedings. You could easily just have a disease issue and a bad acclimation. I do say that slowing down to learn isn’t a bad thing but if you started with live rock (wet when you bought it) then it just isn’t an ammonia issue

 

[Rmckoy]

It has for me. I wondered on my DT because it never turned colors. But, all my other values were also saying 0. But, I got a second 1 for my quarantine tank and it “alarm green!” I mean.., clearly (not yellow) ... no wondering, GREEN! lol
Double checked with my strips and api kit. I like the Salifert and Red Sea kits best. But, I have a reef tank and I know most stores don’t carry either. Plus, for someone starting out, it’s overkill. Anyway, I really like the little seachem badges. It’s easy and gives you a quick heads up (that somethings wrong.) And, it’s not tricky.., like guessing the shade of a liquid/API kind. I can say, I try to go by the directions and it says to change it every 6 months (whether it turns/alerts, or not.) So far, so good.

Interesting ..
you use them only in qt or dt as well ?

 

[nursebran]

For sure way to scare off someone that might have had interest ...

$20 is $20

but a trusted lfs that is out to help the hobby and new aquarists rather than making a buck .
I’d let that lfs be known so others don’t experience the same false advice
I didn’t catch the size of tank , but even for a cleaner shrimp ... they need parasites , or something to eat ?
Why sell them more than 1

I have a 230 gal reef and would not go more than 1

It was wrong (all the way around.) This is a situation of ..... it would have been so much better to answer, I don’t know. It’s like they were set up. The only time I’ve heard something this bad was a LFS selling/pushing purchasing an anemone because they were selling clownfish as beginner fish. Everyone with any experience know that a bubble tip won’t and can’t survive in a new tank. Someone new doesn’t know about lighting and PAR, no nutrients in tank, perfect water parameters, etc. I was so disgusted when I heard her story/?s
Then, I wanted to rethink what I said because it almost sounds like we are getting on to her. It’s not the new owner that aggravates me, it’s the store!
I recommend speaking with management (possibly corporate level) to avoid/bypass the actual “local” store. They should be compensated for their loss (possibly more to come) and notified of the problem at that stores location. If anyone has any recommendations, I’m not sure what to say. I hate that it happened and there some really great ones! Don’t let this bad apple spoil the bunch!

 

[nursebran]

Interesting ..
you use them only in qt or dt as well ?

Both, but my DT has been up and running for a while. My parameters are pretty stable. It’s usually an algae bloom (that comes out of nowhere) that sends me for a loop.
But, my quarantine tank changes...
Like, if I use copper. I change my filter media/even though I keep some in my canister filter, I can still get an ammonia spike. It’s smaller; 20gallons/ plus, new fish and new medicine... oh and one important thing... (you may already know this) You can’t rely on strips or the API kit, the copper renders them ineffective. This is true for cupramine, copper power and copper plus. I think that’s how I found out about them. But, it’s been a while.

 

[ScottJ]

So sorry for your troubles. Really, don't add any more livestock! Get some Seachem Prime (local Petco / Petsmart has it in stock) along with some bottled bacteria for cycling marine tanks. Do this today or tomorrow. Then read and learn all you can. Above all, patience! You'll do ok

 

[Rmckoy]

It was wrong (all the way around.) This is a situation of ..... it would have been so much better to answer, I don’t know. It’s like they were set up. The only time I’ve heard something this bad was a LFS selling/pushing purchasing an anemone because they were selling clownfish as beginner fish. Everyone with any experience know that a bubble tip won’t and can’t survive in a new tank. Someone new doesn’t know about lighting and PAR, no nutrients in tank, perfect water parameters, etc. I was so disgusted when I heard her story/?s
Then, I wanted to rethink what I said because it almost sounds like we are getting on to her. It’s not the new owner that aggravates me, it’s the store!
I recommend speaking with management (possibly corporate level) to avoid/bypass the actual “local” store. They should be compensated for their loss (possibly more to come) and notified of the problem at that stores location. If anyone has any recommendations, I’m not sure what to say. I hate that it happened and there some really great ones! Don’t let this bad apple spoil the bunch!

First someone needs to contact the lfs at a higher level .

 

[nursebran]

If it was true live rock then it’s likely not a cycling issue as everyone above is mentioning as that would cover any ammonia issues from standard respiration and feedings. You could easily just have a disease issue and a bad acclimation. I do say that slowing down to learn isn’t a bad thing but if you started with live rock (wet when you bought it) then it just isn’t an ammonia issue

I do agree. It just looks brand spanking new. She sounds incredibly overwhelmed. I thought it probably wasn’t the best time to mention quarantine tank, but.., hmmm
In a nut shell, offer encouragement and recommend lots of reading/research. Things were done a bit out of order. But, we all have. Like: read/research prior to purchasing tanks. Read/research about cycling before buying fish... are they compatible? QT or not to quarantine? What if you lose power? But, on the other hand, you have to deal with whatever is right in front of you. Anything to hit the high points (in the meantime.) Any recommendations/support/ideas to help

 

[dedragon]

I would bet the LFS never even told them about RODI water and just sold them some dechlorinator as well. Also never use copper in a display tank, it will bind to your rocks and sand as well as discolor everything, reread it was in the qt, tg

 

[Uncle99]

So you say you used LR which should have been virtually a immediate cycle. Try not to push to much load on your initial cycle rather, add something, wait a week, if all ok, add something...etc...

Are you sure that’s a dead skunk shrimp, looks like a molt to me which they will do every so often, then, they will hide until the new body hardens...

Shrimps don’t attack others, or at least, mine never have.
Skunks, Fires, and Peps all get together well however Peps can be hit and miss with LPS.

Your test looks fine to me, not a fan of strip testing, but it’s definitely yellow to me.

Have fun....I just got the impression that you added quite a few things fast, and that can spike the ammonia until beneficial bacteria catches up to the new level.

BTW, 5 emerald crabs is way too much in a new tank, they will be starved. I would return those all, they are not required and in time, will become problematic.

 

[sde1500]

Plenty of advise given here. One observation I’d have is that it may be easy to pile on the LFS. But can’t say I read enough info in the post to say it’s warranted. Do you guys have to fill out a form detailing size of tank and years experience before you buy something? I know I can walk in and out with just about anything no questions asked unless it really is expert or gets huge.

 

[TitansFan]

As some may have seen, I posted my “Newbie” thread; this is my FIRST saltwater tank! I am reading, and reading but still feel lost!
mice lost two fish now I was encouraged to buy shrimp and crab and I think one shrimp killed the other two.
I am still just cycling and have only had my setup for about a week. I have live rock, but not coral. There are currently 3 chromes, 5 small emerald crabs and some skunk shrimp? And another type of shrimp (my husband went into the store while I sat in the car ‍)

I will take ANY information that I can get! What should I be doing? What am I doing wrong?

Welcome to reefing!!! My first recommendation is go slow. Let your tank cycle. Fish stores get paid to sell you things. So be careful listening to employees there. Don’t get me wrong some stores are great... Have you tested your water?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Cycling is a 2-4 week process adding ZERO livestock as there will be daily chemical changes and swings occuring that will simply kill livestock.
API test kit is notorious for false readings and have let down many reefers hence the very low price for a master test kit. You will likely have inaccurate readings during the cycle process.
Ammonia badges have the same credibility as they are also intended for fresh water tanks ands also known for false readings.
What is cycling supposed to be ??
Decades ago, hobbyists would cycle their new tank with a sacrificial fish, like a blue damsel. While this method may still be used by some, it's not a good plan for two reasons: 1) as the ammonia rises in the water, the fish's gills are burned by the rising ammonia levels which is unkind, and 2) most people don't want the damsel in their aquarium later because it's deemed too aggressive to other livestock.
Once you fill up your aquarium with saltwater, powerheads, a heater and perhaps add sand for substrate, the next step is to "cycle" your tank. The purpose of a cycle is to create bacteria that will be consuming ammonia and nitrite from your livestock, but you have to get the bacteria from somewhere initially. Why is it called a cycle? Because the tank will go through three phases: ammonia will rise and fall, then nitrite will rise and fall even quicker, and lastly nitrate will rise and fall. Once Ammonia and Nitrite read 0 and Nitrate is less than 20ppm, the cycle is complete and livestock can gradually be introduced. The bacteria population will increase with the new bioload, processing waste and converting it to nitrate rapidly. However, it is important to note that overloading the aquarium with too many fish initially can exceed what the bacteria can handle. This is why it is best to add new fish slowly over the next few months. The bacterial levels will adapt if you don't overload the system with too many mouths to feed.

How long does the cycle generally last? Using the three test kits to measure results daily, you'll likely see the process takes 21 days. There are several ways to cycle a tank, but the easiest one is to run up to the supermarket, go to the seafood deli counter and ask for one large shrimp. If they sell it with the head, even better. One shrimp will cost about $1. Don't worry if they think you're crazy to buy only one; this is not the first time someone will wonder about your motivations with this hobby.
We're all crazy the day we considered getting into the saltwater hobby !!
Leave the shrimp in the tank for 72 hours. That's it. It may even visibly rot, or envelope in some type of mucous. That's what needs to happen. As the shrimp rots, ammonia is released into the water, and bacteria is growing exponentially, spreading into the substrate. The water may even look a little cloudy, which is totally normal and nothing to be concerned about. After three days, remove the shrimp and throw it away. It is no longer needed. Test for ammonia and see what it measures. It should read at the very least 1ppm, or higher.
Test the aquarium daily for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate, logging the information on graph paper or perhaps in a spreadsheet or app. The more data points you collect over time will graph the rise and fall of each of these parameters. No livestock of any kind should be placed in the aquarium as long as you have any measurable traces of ammonia or nitrite because these are toxic to fish and invertebrates. Start planning what you'll want to put in your aquarium while you have a few weeks to wait. There's no reason to rush this process. A good solid foundation will benefit your future reef and handle the bioload adequately.
Also - If you are running the system with a sump that has a refugium or Algae Turf Scrubber section, don't add any light or plants because the system is too clean.

 

[dumpysauce]

Plenty of good advice here. But my 2 cents. Sit down tonight and watch a couple YouTube videos on "how to set up a saltwater tank" or something similar to that. There is a lot to this hobby, a endless amount of knowledge is out there.

Also as others have mentioned, you should go buy a bottle of Biospira. Its a purple bottle. It contains bacteria that will help you tank establish a proper ecosystem to allow things to survive. I would do this today or tomorrow.

Then after you do those 2 things, Just stay calm, and enjoy the ride. Dont go fast, even though going slow is the last thing you want to do. Try and do some research online before you go buy anything to learn about it.

Being on this forum is already a huge step in the right direction of success. Props to you for posting and asking for help. This hobby can be very unforgiving sometimes.


This series is a good start: Week 1: Our Best Reef Tank Build Yet | 52 Weeks of Reefing - YouTube

Good Luck!

 

[iMi]

Many issues, some mentioned.
Cycling is a 4-6 week process adding ZERO livestock as there will be daily chemical changes and swings occuring that will simply kill livestock.
API test kit is notorious for false readings and have let down many reefers hence the very low price for a master test kit. You will likely have inaccurate readings during the cycle process.
Ammonia badges have the same credibility as they are also intended for fresh water tanks ands also known for false readings.
Based on poor recommendations from your LFS who gladly accepted your hard earned money, I would consider a different and trusted store that can offer you GOOD advice and help you along the way. This was no help. What is cycling supposed to be ??
Decades ago, hobbyists would cycle their new tank with a sacrificial fish, like a blue damsel. While this method may still be used by some, it's not a good plan for two reasons: 1) as the ammonia rises in the water, the fish's gills are burned by the rising ammonia levels which is unkind, and 2) most people don't want the damsel in their aquarium later because it's deemed too aggressive to other livestock.
Once you fill up your aquarium with saltwater, powerheads, a heater and perhaps add sand for substrate, the next step is to "cycle" your tank. The purpose of a cycle is to create bacteria that will be consuming ammonia and nitrite from your livestock, but you have to get the bacteria from somewhere initially. Why is it called a cycle? Because the tank will go through three phases: ammonia will rise and fall, then nitrite will rise and fall even quicker, and lastly nitrate will rise and fall. Once Ammonia and Nitrite read 0 and Nitrate is less than 20ppm, the cycle is complete and livestock can gradually be introduced. The bacteria population will increase with the new bioload, processing waste and converting it to nitrate rapidly. However, it is important to note that overloading the aquarium with too many fish initially can exceed what the bacteria can handle. This is why it is best to add new fish slowly over the next few months. The bacterial levels will adapt if you don't overload the system with too many mouths to feed.

How long does the cycle generally last? Using the three test kits to measure results daily, you'll likely see the process takes 21 days. There are several ways to cycle a tank, but the easiest one is to run up to the supermarket, go to the seafood deli counter and ask for one large shrimp. If they sell it with the head, even better. One shrimp will cost about $1. Don't worry if they think you're crazy to buy only one; this is not the first time someone will wonder about your motivations with this hobby.
We're all crazy the day we considered getting into the saltwater hobby !!
Leave the shrimp in the tank for 72 hours. That's it. It may even visibly rot, or envelope in some type of mucous. That's what needs to happen. As the shrimp rots, ammonia is released into the water, and bacteria is growing exponentially, spreading into the substrate. The water may even look a little cloudy, which is totally normal and nothing to be concerned about. After three days, remove the shrimp and throw it away. It is no longer needed. Test for ammonia and see what it measures. It should read at the very least 1ppm, or higher.
Test the aquarium daily for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate, logging the information on graph paper or perhaps in a spreadsheet or app. The more data points you collect over time will graph the rise and fall of each of these parameters. No livestock of any kind should be placed in the aquarium as long as you have any measurable traces of ammonia or nitrite because these are toxic to fish and invertebrates. Start planning what you'll want to put in your aqurium while you have a few weeks to wait. There's no reason to rush this process. A good solid foundation will benefit your future reef and handle the bioload adequately.
Also - If you are running the system with a sump that has a refugium or Algae Turf Scrubber section, don't add any light or plants because the system is too clean.

I agree on the API test kits. I’ve had several that were inaccurate over the years. Cycling is a different story. I am a fan of bacteria in a bottle and skip-cycle with live rock/sand. I haven’t cycled a tank longer than a week or two in the past decade or more, including a re-setup of a densely planted Discus tank that had to be broken down and moved. Discus are notorious for water quality related loss. I also haven’t lost a single fish, coral or invert to a cycle related problem. It’s a method that works for me, but I do agree entirely that anyone new should follow a more traditional cycling method. It’s a good experience and an educational one. I would encourage new aquarists not to be intimidated by the whole idea. It’s not rocket science.

 

[nursebran]

I would bet the LFS never even told them about RODI water and just sold them some dechlorinator as well. Also never use copper in a display tank, it will bind to your rocks and sand as well as discolor everything, reread it was in the qt, tg

Oh my goodness! You are right! Totally, forgot about the RODI water. I did wonder about the salt/ mixing and checking it before adding it to the tank.
About the copper, it’s ok and appreciated. I rather have been told twice, than not at all and mess up my DT. Lol
I know, I’m still learning!

 

[zukihara]

Your tank is crazy clean. You might consider removing all the colorful fake stuff and replacing with legit live rock if you can find some locally. Those colorful decorations will be ugly soon enough anyway.

 

[davidcalgary29]

Your tank is crazy clean. You might consider removing all the colorful fake stuff and replacing with legit live rock if you can find some locally. Those colorful decorations will be ugly soon enough anyway.

You know, though, I've always wondered why it's considered acceptable to have mermaids and pirate chests and sunken ships in FW tanks, but not in marine builds. I say if it makes you happy, keep it!

It surely will become covered in algae soon enough, though.

 

[zukihara]

You know, though, I've always wondered why it's considered acceptable to have mermaids and pirate chests and sunken ships in FW tanks, but not in marine builds. I say if it makes you happy, keep it!

It surely will become covered in algae soon enough, though.

To each their own for sure, but this tank has a whole lot of decor that is taking space away from live rock so I made the suggestion. I am in no way judging what people decorate with.

 

[jser388]

For all we know, the LFS could be a petco/petsmart or a big store like that, while I'm not knocking them a place like this and someone who doesn't know would steer someone just starting out in the wrong direction. I only say this by what she has in the tank and the products she has acquired, any store trying to make money is going to push more higher priced items that aren't tetra test strips IMO.

I would for sure try to see if you can take livestock back or have a friend hold them, or even someone on FB/Find local groups and such, there are a ton of helpful people out there.