Got my setup plumbed into the basement (pics!!)

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Engloid

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Oh...and an update on using the icemaker solenoid in conjunction with the ATO setup.... I wouldn't reccomend it unless you have a system that won't require the solenoid to stay open for long. On my system, the top-off time could be (not sure yet) as long as 20 minutes. Having the icemaker solenoid open that long will burn it up. I burned one up, thinking it was defective...returned it and got another one. It got hot within about 1-2 minutes and I decided to not push it and just work on finding another solenoid. They have them on the Autotopoff.com website for $15, and $10 shipping...but I would like to find a better option, if not cheaper.

I may also wind up needing a chiller sometime soon. :( The 1/4hp one I bought a while back needs a charge, at best. If it's bad, I may have to buy another one. Besides...with about 400 gallons to cool, it's running a lot and the "mechanical room" is hitting about 90 degrees.
 

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Never thought about it, but those icemaker solenoids only run for a few seconds and are heavily cooled as well (made to operate in a 20 degree environment, not the hotter ones). A better option would be an ASCO solenoid valve, but that definitely isn't the cheaper option.
 
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Engloid

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Never thought about it, but those icemaker solenoids only run for a few seconds and are heavily cooled as well (made to operate in a 20 degree environment, not the hotter ones). A better option would be an ASCO solenoid valve, but that definitely isn't the cheaper option.
The same valves used in icemakers are used for the water dispensers on a fridge door. They aren't made to work in 20 degree temps though, or they'd freeze up. They're mounted outside of the cold areas of a fridge or freezer, typically at the bottom, in the back of the fridge. A 1/4" poly tube then runs up and into the icebox for the icemaker. This keeps the valve out of cold temps and won't let it freeze up.

It's interesting that you mention the ASCO valves...I have one here. The problem is that when energized I hear it click, but it still is flowing RO water. It doesn't seem able to turn off. Correct me if you have any other ideas on this, but I'm assuming that it's in need of a rebuild kit. This leads to another problem....the dang rebuild kit is $120!!! a complete new valve is $214. I don't think either are a good deal for the money.

I sent email to autotopoff.com about their solenoid and they said their valve isn't going to be able to withstand long periods of time open. I need one that can stay open for 15 minute intervals. From that point, I can set my timer so that it will turn on for only 15 minutes...about 3 times a day.

Any other ideas?

Next up is setting up the AquaController Jr that I got from Travis...or at least investigating its abilities and determining if I want to. Oh....and I may have a big chiller in my future...and be selling the 1/4hp one I have now.
 
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Update...just to point out my stupid mistake..
I took the valve apart, thinking maybe something was in it, seat needed cleaned or something. I didn't see much of anything in it, but in rolling it around in my hands, I noticed that one side said IN. Duh!!! Yeah, I must have had it backwards, but I'm not sure. I know better!!!

I didn't notice it until I had it unhooked. It seems to be working well now. I ran it for more than half an hour earlier and it did get a little warm on the coil end, but nothing to be alarmed about. I'll probably set it for 30 mins on and 15 mins off, for 2-3 times a day. That should be ok for now, and eventually I will minimize the time that the ATO is on, to control the times of day that ATO is done, and minimize the risk of failure.
 

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The solenoid on my co2 setup gets wicked hot. It's on 8 hours a day. Not sure if that's relevant, but it might be.
 
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The solenoid on my co2 setup gets wicked hot. It's on 8 hours a day. Not sure if that's relevant, but it might be.
You may want to run it on a timer so that it is on 4 separate times for about 2hrs each, just to be safe. A solenoid overheating can result in a fire. It's just coils inside that make an electromagnet.
 
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I got email back from autotopoff.com. They said they tested their solenoids for 2hrs and didn't have any problems. My ASCO is holding up just fine still. I have it coming on something like 4 times a day, for 30 minutes each time. That may be a good starting point.
 

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You may want to run it on a timer so that it is on 4 separate times for about 2hrs each, just to be safe. A solenoid overheating can result in a fire. It's just coils inside that make an electromagnet.
That's not really an option in a planted tank - the co2 needs to be on for the full photoperiod.
 
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That's not really an option in a planted tank - the co2 needs to be on for the full photoperiod.
I'd be a bit nervous about running a solenoid that got so hit I couldn't leave my hand on it. The Asco solenoid I have can stay on for as long as I want, and will get warm, but never so hot I can't leave my hand on it.

I am surprised that none of the companies that sell solenoids for CO2, hydroponics, or ATO setups mention how long they should be left on before it can burn up or safety becomes an issue.
 

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Honestly, I've never heard of a co2 solenoid burning up or causing a fire on planted tank websites. I've been using mine for 8-10 hours a day for over 5 years now. Clippard solenoids are rated for a 140 degrees F rise in operating temperature. I don't think they mention length of time because it's a non-issue. They do fail eventually, more people are starting to build their own brass solenoids for longevity: Leaking Clippard Solenoid - Burkert Replacement

I'm not familiar with solenoids for RO-DI/ATOs. Maybe their specs are different and they are rated for different uses than are solenoids for gasses?
 
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