GHA Has Destroyed My Passion for the Hobby

Reefer Matt

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I have 2 heaters in the tank, one set at 72 in case the other fails. I should probably rotate which one is active more often.



There's a large Trochus in there, 2 or 3 Astreas, and an unknown number of Nassarius. Last week I moved a Zebra Turbo in there from another tank, as well.
Ok. I suggest an astrea or trochus snail for every gallon of tank. First, the big stuff will have to be manually removed and siphoned out, then the snails should take care of the rest.
 

Reefer Matt

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Don’t add more cuc

you can see they rarely work.
They work great for me in sufficient quantities. I find people usually don't buy enough to make it work. People would rather try for a quick fix in a bottle.
 

vetteguy53081

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when we do an oil change we do the filter too or just leave it? Way to be thorough. I bet your sports car doesn’t get any corners cut, we are just like that in rip clean threads.


@vetteguy53081 the reason we would rip clean it as stated is because there’s a link most people read to see the long term outcomes and those were good long term outcomes

nothing hinted as bad in a rip clean was found in the link work

you’re having him leave a sandbed full of waste plus take on the waste of copious waste pellets from guessing at invaders in addition which is terrible for growback and future tradeoff invasions


if you track your recommend out for other people’s tanks, over a year and you log those efforts, you see them getting tradeoff invasions since you told them to leave all the waste in the small nano and just add more to it. We rip clean because it’s time to evacuate his setup for the very first time.

your recommend vectors fish disease into his tank, mine doesn’t. Yours breaks biosecurity to add those wasteful animals as a guess. Tell him to fallow prep the clean up crew at least, don’t wreck people’s tanks with velvet if at all possible? Not doing work and follow up in dedicated threads gives this pass to make guessing recommends / not on the hook for outcomes with passby recommends.



(a separate fifty page rip clean thread)
that’s two rip clean threads here now, and not one alternate work thread showing work in others tanks.

I’m amazed when best means and practices stated don’t come with any work proof.



as much as folks from the crowd hate rip cleans, for some invented reason, they can’t rectify that dislike against the scores of tanks we save with them. Since no alternate work threads are posted by detractors, I can’t understand why they’d redirect without any shown work in the matter.

everyone knows a topical application of peroxide kills the gha, we are planning to fix what feeds that gha as well.
I always have clean tanks and in 40 Years NEVER EVER had to rip my tank apart. To have a simple algae or cyano issue and tear a tank apart so you can go back through the ugly stage and subject tank once again to risk of cyano and dino make absolutely no sense. There is a reason we inherit these conditions and what troubles me is: seldom is the source of the issue which can be corrected discussed, rather it is suggested to tear a tank apart.
Many of these persons have poured their sweat and tears into their tanks especially the larger tanks to be offered a suggestion to tear it apart and start over is troubling.
There are however instances where it is warranted and there are times Ive seen you suggest rip clean and it appeared may be the recourse. There are times Ive disagreed and Never chimed in and contested your recommendation as I respect everyones' opinion but its just not for everyone. Its often an alternative and not a solution and then there are times there is no alternative- it is the solution.

I also see mention of 50 page, 200 page threads mentioned- Is it your work or someone else's recommendations? It needs to be realized when a person makes a thread with an issue and it pertains to their 40g tank as an example, it will apply to a person with a 40, even 50g tank and impractical for a person with a 15g AIO or one like myself with a 400, even 660g tank.
Four years ago my 660g have a dino outbreak (my first and only) and the last thing I was ever going to consider is tearing tank apart. In turn, I fought it the right way and below shows the result.

Dino start:

660g 7.30b.jpg
660g 7.30e.jpg


One week later:

600g 7.1b.jpg


Two months later:

660g 2.6.21c.jpg
660g tangs 7.3.jpg
 

Spare time

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@Spare time

I honestly would like to know if you're telling your LFS customers this info when you refer them to fluconazole

Screenshot_20230123-141114_Samsung Internet.jpg


Do you tell them it can kill their reef in any way, or just the positive parts?

Rip cleaning has never killed anyone's tank, and it's free of cost/ not sold, how do you vet the information you give to customers?

I know you'll never recommend a rip clean, it's in your post history to not recommend it

Isn't that what gives lfs a bad name though, recommending the dangerous for sale items vs the known safe methods that are free?


1. "I overdosed fluconazole"

2. "Parazoryne"

I don't think I need to say more
 

Rmckoy

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I always have clean tanks and in 40 Years NEVER EVER had to rip my tank apart. To have a simple algae or cyano issue and tear a tank apart so you can go back through the ugly stage and subject tank once again to risk of cyano and dino make absolutely no sense. There is a reason we inherit these conditions and what troubles me is: seldom is the source of the issue which can be corrected discussed, rather it is suggested to tear a tank apart.
Many of these persons have poured their sweat and tears into their tanks especially the larger tanks to be offered a suggestion to tear it apart and start over is troubling.
There are however instances where it is warranted and there are times Ive seen you suggest rip clean and it appeared may be the recourse. There are times Ive disagreed and Never chimed in and contested your recommendation as I respect everyones' opinion but its just not for everyone. Its often an alternative and not a solution and then there are times there is no alternative- it is the solution.

I also see mention of 50 page, 200 page threads mentioned- Is it your work or someone else's recommendations? It needs to be realized when a person makes a thread with an issue and it pertains to their 40g tank as an example, it will apply to a person with a 40, even 50g tank and impractical for a person with a 15g AIO or one like myself with a 400, even 660g tank.
Four years ago my 660g have a dino outbreak (my first and only) and the last thing I was ever going to consider is tearing tank apart. In turn, I fought it the right way and below shows the result.

Dino start:

660g 7.30b.jpg
660g 7.30e.jpg


One week later:

600g 7.1b.jpg


Two months later:

660g 2.6.21c.jpg
660g tangs 7.3.jpg
My understanding of rip cleaning is not a one time fix . And will become a required part of regular maintenance to battle the ongoing ugly as it’s not resolving the actual route of the issue . But continuing to clean up the mess from the previous rip . If the original source of the issue isn’t confronted it will never go away and eventually always return .

also agree this method might work for a small beer glass size setup but not so much for anything larger .
 

Just John

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Alright, @brandon429 I guess I know what I'm doing next weekend.
Definitely the right choice. The best thing about this method is that in just a few hours that really depressing feeling you get every time you look in the tank is gone and you have the tank you wish you had.
 

Rmckoy

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Definitely the right choice. The best thing about this method is that in just a few hours that really depressing feeling you get every time you look in the tank is gone and you have the tank you wish you had.
My question is how long until you have to redo the method to restore the tank you wish for ?
 

Rmckoy

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I always have clean tanks and in 40 Years NEVER EVER had to rip my tank apart. To have a simple algae or cyano issue and tear a tank apart so you can go back through the ugly stage and subject tank once again to risk of cyano and dino make absolutely no sense. There is a reason we inherit these conditions and what troubles me is: seldom is the source of the issue which can be corrected discussed, rather it is suggested to tear a tank apart.
Many of these persons have poured their sweat and tears into their tanks especially the larger tanks to be offered a suggestion to tear it apart and start over is troubling.
There are however instances where it is warranted and there are times Ive seen you suggest rip clean and it appeared may be the recourse. There are times Ive disagreed and Never chimed in and contested your recommendation as I respect everyones' opinion but its just not for everyone. Its often an alternative and not a solution and then there are times there is no alternative- it is the solution.

I also see mention of 50 page, 200 page threads mentioned- Is it your work or someone else's recommendations? It needs to be realized when a person makes a thread with an issue and it pertains to their 40g tank as an example, it will apply to a person with a 40, even 50g tank and impractical for a person with a 15g AIO or one like myself with a 400, even 660g tank.
Four years ago my 660g have a dino outbreak (my first and only) and the last thing I was ever going to consider is tearing tank apart. In turn, I fought it the right way and below shows the result.

Dino start:

660g 7.30b.jpg
660g 7.30e.jpg


One week later:

600g 7.1b.jpg


Two months later:

660g 2.6.21c.jpg
660g tangs 7.3.jpg
Nice looking tank .
the one with all the tangs is the 660gal ?

now I’m curious how you got rid of cyano in a large system .
 

vetteguy53081

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Nice looking tank .
the one with all the tangs is the 660gal ?

now I’m curious how you got rid of cyano in a large system .
Yes. Cyano is similar utilizing blackout and adding bacteria to beat the bad bacteria as well as a couple simple steps.
 

Roatan Reef

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Patience is required, like I've said...had my battles with Cyano, GHA...cleaned the Rocks and Corals with toothbrush, did water changes etc, for months...and within a week, GHA was back...but continued to be vigilant about it every week when doing water changes.

I bought a very fine micron net at local LFS and used it to scoop out loose GHA after scrubbing, because as we all know, it will just resettle and grow again...that has helped immensely, plus new heater keeps tank at 78° steady....


And the tank is finally not instantly re-growing GHA and Cyano...like I said, I'm waiting 2 weeks now for next water change, because it looks so good.

Patience, Dedication is required! Put in the work, and you will be rewarded!

I've suffered for months, but never quit! And tank is finally doing amazing. You have to keep at this Hobby, it is not for the lazy or the weak. I never used any chemicals...just dedicated week in and week out , and while frustration consumed me, I kept at it...and it's paying off now!
 

Just John

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My question is how long until you have to redo the method to restore the tank you wish for ?
If you pay attention to the water quality, like not let phosphates get too high, etc. and have a good cleanup crew, you should never have to do a rip clean again.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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That's so right John

We spend time trying to avoid a rip clean ideally simply due to the work involved, it's never harmful to apply one preemptively and when required

if those efforts dont work and it comes time for a rip clean and we avoid one, then that's harmful and the before pics of the system will show the eutrophic condition.

Humu something tells me if you do the rip clean you won't short change the effort, you can tell its full disassembly of the tank 100% and each section of control is exacting and completely documented in the example works

We depend on people who do rip cleans to do them correctly for their benefit and for the benefit of readers in those threads who copy jobs off one another. That'll be so satisfying to see your job done exactly like the others, those after pics are so clean/ no other method in reefing works this way.
 

FishyDP

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I would check my rodi water and make sure it is as close as possible to 0 tds. I would then slowly dose a carbon source and slowly run some phosban. You should see the hair algae start floating off the rock (not immediately) due to its food source being reduced or eliminated. Once you get your phosphate and nitrate levels in check, add an algae scrubber to keep them in check, and slowly remove the phosban and carbon source completey. Chaeto has never worked for me, scrubbers are aggressive at removing nutrients (algae food) from the water column. Just do your research on them regarding maintenance and cleaning the screen properly. Now your problem will be low nutrients, which is better than a tank full of gha, imo. Just feed more. I target feed my corals once a week to make up for the lack of nutrients. Feeding is more fun than looking at gha, and cleaning the scrubber screen is not required every day. This has worked for me. Every tank is different.
 
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brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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this is exactly like fishing. pretty fun

in work threads, fixers offer their method exactly like putting a bait down to see who takes it and applies the method, they await feedback, they take that info on best practices home to their reef...all pretty neat how online troubleshooting works.






thought I would post what a 120 gallon rip clean with three years tracking afterwards looks like. rare gem here, about fifteen times the overall work required to fix Humu's nano and ironically, this reef above was pristine when he did the rip clean, nothing was wrong with it.

he did it to move the reef without recycling it. you are doing one here (hopefully) to rob your soon to be surgically clean rocks of food stores they currently access to feed algae. nutrients upwell from that sand and feed the algae, along with bright lights and some missing grazers. a shocking set of after pics is possible here :)
 
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DarthChaos

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Nuisance algeas/bacteria come from 2 things:

NO3 &/or PO4 too high.
NO3 &/or PO4 too low.

That's it.

There IS a reason, for these things....unless you address the cause and rectify it - you'll constantly be battling the outcome. You can't expect to change nothing and fix something. Your tank is telling you something, listen to it.

Blackouts....chemicals....manual removal - it's all a band-aid solution, to simple issue. There is a natural solution....to almost every problem, in a reef tank.

Running a refugium - increasing your biological filtration - are good ways to naturally.....fight off the algea/bacteria and prevent it coming back. Cut back feedings - increase/decrease water changes - ensure equipment is clean and working properly - increase CuC. Your system.....isnt exporting nutrients....fast enough (or too fast!)......you need to balance (or re-balance) your system.

Maintaing healthy and stable parameters....is key. It takes time - paitence. A healthy and strong reef tank is about one single thing.....balance. Establishing equilibrium. Everyone's "ideal" parameters...are going to be different, you need to find the balance between feeding your tank - but not feeding the nuisance algeas/bacterias. You need to find your...."ideal" NO3/PO4 levels.

Make adjustments slowly, and methodically. If you look for a quick solution - you are just going to end up, with more issues. The nuisance algea/bacteria....will leave on its own.

God speed....and good luck. You will learn more from this experience, than any amount of time spent on YouTube or forums.
 

SteveMM62Reef

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I’m having good results Vodka Dosing, after a suggestion from a fellow Reefer. I posted the Chart he recommended on this site. You start off with a tiny bit of Vodka, slight increase in 4 days, then three days. After that slight increases every week. BTW you need to be exact on the dosing, do it about the same time every day. I use an Oral Dosing Syringe. Your Filter and Skimmer at a point will need more frequent servicing. Then it will taper off back to normal. Only do this on fully cycled, well past the ugly stages. 40% Vodka is extremely cheap.
 

Garf

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this is exactly like fishing. pretty fun

in work threads, fixers offer their method exactly like putting a bait down to see who takes it and applies the method, they await feedback, they take that info on best practices home to their reef...all pretty neat how online troubleshooting works.






thought I would post what a 120 gallon rip clean with three years tracking afterwards looks like. rare gem here, about fifteen times the overall work required to fix Humu's nano and ironically, this reef above was pristine when he did the rip clean, nothing was wrong with it.

he did it to move the reef without recycling it. you are doing one here (hopefully) to rob your soon to be surgically clean rocks of food stores they currently access to feed algae. nutrients upwell from that sand and feed the algae, along with bright lights and some missing grazers. a shocking set of after pics is possible here :)
Have you read his build thread? Very interesting battles with Cyano and dinos.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Verdict

what action was taken here in this tank with such potential to fix in five hours total
 
OP
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HumuhumuFan

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So, here we go. I decided to try the rip clean method. This was the starting line:
PkLCefO.jpg


The live rock was taken out for a good scrub and a generous treatment of 3% hydrogen peroxide.
z6Lwy0T.jpg


Rocks, corals, fish and the remaining CUC was moved to my frag tank.
eFqHkQ7.jpg
 
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