GFO reactor not working?

vdubers

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Hi I am using GFO in a reactor to try and lower my phosphate currently at 0.264ppm using Hanna ULR. I cross referenced this result with salifert and it appears to be the same.

My issue is that my GFO seemed to not be doing much so I tested the effluent coming out of the reactor about 10 mins after changing with 1g per 10us gal as per the gfo instructions so 160g for me and this read only very slightly lower at 0.254 so within the test error change. I would expect the effluent to be at or near 0?

The flow is set so the GFO is lightly boiling on the top. Is it just bad GFO it was some cheap stuff off eBay called phosfoe.

Thanks
 

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I had no luck with GFO lowering my phos, I ended up dosing with a reduction mixture of 40ml SeaKlear to 1460ml RODI water, then I dose this directly into my skimmer 15ml daily, keeps my phos at .08 to .15. The SeaKlear is Trilanthanum Chloride, this is a commercial strength Pool Phos Remover and as such it is a Hazardous Chemical, keep out of reach of children, follow all directions carefully. This one bottle should last me a lifetime. Oh Yeah, I got this idea from these forums, not sure which thread, but thanks to the OP.

SeaKlear at Amazon
 
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Hi I am using GFO in a reactor to try and lower my phosphate currently at 0.264ppm using Hanna ULR. I cross referenced this result with salifert and it appears to be the same.

My issue is that my GFO seemed to not be doing much so I tested the effluent coming out of the reactor about 10 mins after changing with 1g per 10us gal as per the gfo instructions so 160g for me and this read only very slightly lower at 0.254 so within the test error change. I would expect the effluent to be at or near 0?

The flow is set so the GFO is lightly boiling on the top. Is it just bad GFO it was some cheap stuff off eBay called phosfoe.

Thanks
How long since you started the reactor?

If it's been running a few days it is probably exhausted and needs replacing.

It can take a lot of GFO to drop phosphate levels if there is a large reservoir bound to carbonate rocks in the tank.
 

DanyL

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High levels of phosphate can indeed take time to lower using GFO alone.

I’m not sure what this GFO media you are using here, but there’s also a big difference between a regular capacity and a high capacity one, as well as to the size of the granuls - the same volume of Rowaphos media compared to a large granule media would weigh a lot more due to the higher density smaller granules have, and thus allow it to be much more potent using same sized reactor.

Lanthanum Chloride is also an option and has very high potency, but fish can be sensitive to its use, and it’s highly recommended to dose a highly dilute solution slowly (using an IV bag, or a dosing pump) into a 5 or 10 microns sock with running water, over a long period of time (8-10 hours).

A third way would be to combine one of the above methods together with carbon and possibly nitrate dosing.

One thing that you must remember when adjusting nutrients is that fast changes can go bad very quickly, so take your time, test and move slow. You also must follow your nitrates along the way, because phosphate, nitrate and carbon are all related and affect each other.
 

Bruttall

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Lanthanum Chloride is also an option and has very high potency, but fish can be sensitive to its use, and it’s highly recommended to dose a highly dilute solution slowly (using an IV bag, or a dosing pump) into a 5 or 10 microns sock with running water, over a long period of time (8-10 hours).
This is very true, I use my Neptune Apex to control the LC Dosing @15ml a day. And it is best to dose it directly into the Foam in your skimmer or directly into a 5micron sock.
 
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vdubers

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Thanks for the advice. I’m not quite at the point of using LC yet just because I am apprehensive about how my tangs will react or trusting my dosing pump to be accurate enough.

I do have other methods of phosphate reduction I am working on (increased water changed, algae scrubber, oversized RC skimmer) however I was mainly just concerned that the GFO either is a crap batch/product and maybe I should try a different brand?

I’m guessing it’s not normal for it to be testing so high on the effluent after only around 10 mins of being in the reactor?

I doubt it could be exhausted so quick as it wouldn’t have even had that much water flow through it in that time so right now I’m leaning more towards it being a bad lot of GFO and trying something different like ROWA?
 
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I have 7 tangs in my tank. Around 27 fish total, 5 different species of shrimp, etc.
Fair enough. I’m not totally against LC just figure I should make sure my phosphate reactor is at least doing its job before I determine it’s not suitable and write it off. If after getting some rowa and my effluent is 0 it’s still not cutting it might go the LC route. Any issues with running LC long term to maintain lower levels? Although pretty sure once phosphate is around 0.1 I can up my game with my other methods to keep it there.
 

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I agree that a no name material claiming to be GFO may not have much capacity. It's also possible that there are testing issues, but normal GFO won't be depleted in 10 minutes at that concentration.

I'd keep running it for at least a few hours and measure both the tank and effluent again.
 
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vdubers

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I agree that a no name material claiming to be GFO may not have much capacity. It's also possible that there are testing issues, but normal GFO won't be depleted in 10 minutes at that concentration.

I'd keep running it for at least a few hours and measure both the tank and effluent again.

So I tested both again.
Tank was 0.172
Effluent 0.193

Not sure why the effluent was higher than the tank?

Given that phosphate has come down for both does that mean it’s working? However it’s worth noting the first test was this morning at 8.30am before my full lights were on whereas now it’s 3pm for me so had a good bit of light.

I’m still feeling my effluent should be near 0 so probably best to invest in some decent GFO vs no name eBay stuff?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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So I tested both again.
Tank was 0.172
Effluent 0.193

Not sure why the effluent was higher than the tank?

Given that phosphate has come down for both does that mean it’s working? However it’s worth noting the first test was this morning at 8.30am before my full lights were on whereas now it’s 3pm for me so had a good bit of light.

I’m still feeling my effluent should be near 0 so probably best to invest in some decent GFO vs no name eBay stuff?

It likely was working slowly, and the difference you see is test variability.

I'd leave it running for now and get some better material for the future. those values are not a big issue.
 
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vdubers

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It likely was working slowly, and the difference you see is test variability.

I'd leave it running for now and get some better material for the future. those values are not a big issue.
Thanks for your help sounds like a good plan will get some ordered.

I’m not overly concerned about the numbers. My phosphate issue was more because I just couldn’t understand why it wasn’t dropping. No real algae problems and 90% of corals are finally doing good which I think is because I sorted my ph.

Thanks all for the help I will update when I get new GFO just to put this to bed.
 
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vdubers

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LC hardens plastic/rubber. so you have to watch your Doser Lines closely. The APEX doser so far has lasted 10x longer with no issues over the jeboa I started with.
dang I have a jeboa typical! Thanks for the heads up though worth keeping in mind if I do run LC in the future.
 

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The APEX hoses are larger diameter, and made of a better material I think than the jeboa, why they seem to last longer, and with a replaceable pump head for like 45 dollars, Apex is really nice. Initial investment can be staggering though, Neptune Apex system is not cheap.
 

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LC hardens plastic/rubber. so you have to watch your Doser Lines closely. The APEX doser so far has lasted 10x longer with no issues over the jeboa I started with.

I have to say I have a hard time believing that it is the lanthanum chloride that has that effect, as opposed to any other salty water or exposure to air. I do not doubt that the tubing hardened, but I expect the same effect would happen with nearly any other material in the tubing.
 

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