General DIY Stand Esthetics/Design question for Low Iron Eurobraced Tanks

Fish Fan

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Calling on all you designers, artist-types, and genuinely more experienced, smarter and better looking builders and reefers here!

I'm a 'decent' woodworker, with a better than averagely equipped shop (I have both a jointer and planner, for example), but I'm terrible at design, finish carpentry, and just the little things that make a nice piece of furniture, or an aquarium build, look professional vs. home made.

I'm really considering getting this SC Aquariums 150 gallon tank:

https://www.scaquariums.com/SCA-150-Gallon-Starfire-Tank-p/sca-150g-pgo.htm

I fully understand that these tanks are Chinese, imported, and maybe not the overall value of a Glass Cages tank (who was otherwise tops on my list), but long story short, this SCA tank fits our space very, very well, and comes much, much closer to the number I told the Project Manager (my dear wife!) a new tank would cost us :)

My question is - and feel free to reply with a pic - the above tank is Eurobraced, low-iron, and nice seams. For the stand specifically, would you guys build a stand with a flat top (like a table top) that this tank would just sit on, and therefore kind of highlight the tank itself? Or, would you do some kind of molding to hide the bottom seam (and maybe like an inch or so extra for the sand), the way I think a lot of builders (myself included) would do for a standard, plastic rimmed aquarium, like an Aqueon, Marineland, etc?

And, I'm not sure I want a traditional full canopy top on this tank, but similar to my question above, if you guys made a canopy for this SCA tank, would you fully enclose it, and hide the Erobraced top seam? Or, would you highlight the Eurobraced top seam, and do some kind of *floating* (ceiling hung) canopy or more modern lighting system so that it doesn't hide the top of the tank?

I hope my questions makes sense. Can anyone offer me any advice here?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
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jmcdona6

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I had that exact same tank 4 years ago. To start off, don't let anyone shame you on going with SCA. They are great tanks. Besides, most major names out there are made in China aside from a few including the alternative you mentioned.

At least on mine, I built my stand to have a flat top. The seams were nice, so no reason to hide them with trim unless it's your preference.

As for the top...I never really noticed the eurobrace if that's what you are worried out. I would base it on your desired lighting plan. With the eurobrace it is impossible to difficult to use any arm based lighting. You pretty much have to go with either a HMS/RMS style rail system, hanging kit, or a hood.
 

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Picture for reference. Tank is a little bare as it was when I was breaking it down, but you can see how I had it and how it looked.
20210713_202056.jpg
 
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I had that exact same tank 4 years ago. To start off, don't let anyone shame you on going with SCA. They are great tanks. Besides, most major names out there are made in China aside from a few including the alternative you mentioned.

At least on mine, I built my stand to have a flat top. The seams were nice, so no reason to hide them with trim unless it's your preference.

As for the top...I never really noticed the eurobrace if that's what you are worried out. I would base it on your desired lighting plan. With the eurobrace it is impossible to difficult to use any arm based lighting. You pretty much have to go with either a HMS/RMS style rail system, hanging kit, or a hood.
Thanks for your reply and for "getting" my question!

For a light rail or canopy, I'm going to make my own, somehow, out of wood. It ay or ma not be attached or hung from the ceiling. I do like the Eurobracing on this tank (never had Eurobracing before) and I am not worried about hiding it - I think it would look great! But I did want to ask to see how other reefers felt, and what they did.

Same with the bottom tank seam, which was really my question. I want to put this tank on a flat, table-top-like surface, so that everyone can and will see the bottom seam. I'm trying to decide if that's the look I want.

Thanks very much for your reply and help!
 
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Picture for reference. Tank is a little bare as it was when I was breaking it down, but you can see how I had it and how it looked.
May be missing the pic, but I appreciate your help lol!
 

jmcdona6

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Thanks for your reply and for "getting" my question!

For a light rail or canopy, I'm going to make my own, somehow, out of wood. It ay or ma not be attached or hung from the ceiling. I do like the Eurobracing on this tank (never had Eurobracing before) and I am not worried about hiding it - I think it would look great! But I did want to ask to see how other reefers felt, and what they did.

Same with the bottom tank seam, which was really my question. I want to put this tank on a flat, table-top-like surface, so that everyone can and will see the bottom seam. I'm trying to decide if that's the look I want.

Thanks very much for your reply and help!

If you are going to build your own hood, I'd recommend experimenting with how thin/minimalist you can get away with. I too do a bit of woodworking but am not great at finish work. I always have an inclination to grab standard 3/4" appearance boards and 2x4. However, by time you piece it all together and add trim, your piece is overbuilt. To me, that's when my stuff looks the most amateur. Understanding that wood (especially good quality ply) is stronger than it looks and less is almost always more.
 
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If you are going to build your own hood, I'd recommend experimenting with how thin/minimalist you can get away with. I too do a bit of woodworking but am not great at finish work. I always have an inclination to grab standard 3/4" appearance boards and 2x4. However, by time you piece it all together and add trim, your piece is overbuilt. To me, that's when my stuff looks the most amateur. Understanding that wood (especially good quality ply) is stronger than it looks and less is almost always more.
Yes, I couldn't agree more! If/when I work with 2x material, etc., I run it through my jointer and planer to straighten it out, and mill it down dimensionally. Then, in my humble opinion. it doesn't scream "2x4"! LOL!

Thanks again for your help!
 

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