From QT to DT

[Eye H8 Empty V]

So I’m about 2 weeks away from my first fish finishing up QT. My DT is new but has some LPS, SPS, toadstool, and various snails. All DT life looks happy.

SG 1.026 in both tanks and temps are around 78.4. PH and dKh are different though.

My QT is in the garage. I was thinking of netting the fish and putting them in a container with DT water then dumping it all in the DT. Is this correct or should I drip acclimate? How about lighting? Should it stay off for a while and ramp up or can the lights stay on?

I’d love to hear any suggestions and methods. Thanks!

Billy

 

[Brennin]

You want to acclimate the fish same as if you Just bought them.
As far as the lights I wouldn’t change anything. If you have some corals growing then leave the light cycle the sand the tank is happy.

 

[Brennin]

You want to acclimate the fish same as if you Just bought them.
As far as the lights I wouldn’t change anything. If you have some corals growing then leave the light cycle the sand the tank is happy.

The same*

 

[Jay Hemdal]

So I’m about 2 weeks away from my first fish finishing up QT. My DT is new but has some LPS, SPS, toadstool, and various snails. All DT life looks happy.

SG 1.026 in both tanks and temps are around 78.4. PH and dKh are different though.

My QT is in the garage. I was thinking of netting the fish and putting them in a container with DT water then dumping it all in the DT. Is this correct or should I drip acclimate? How about lighting? Should it stay off for a while and ramp up or can the lights stay on?

I’d love to hear any suggestions and methods. Thanks!

Billy

Salinity is the most important factor that needs to be the same between two tanks. dKh is the least important. Temperature and pH are minor differences that need to be accounted for. People forget that the BIGGEST issue is stress from the move itself. Chasing the fish in nets, putting then in a hard sided container where they bruise their noses, hanging them in a tank for lengthy acclimation all add to more stress than most differences in water give.

Lights in the receiving tank should be low, but not off. You don't want the new fish to bump around hitting things it can't see.

If the QT water has no chemicals in it, you can just run and dump. If it does, you need to strain that water off safely.

Here is an article I recently posted on acclimation:

Acclimation Methods

Acclimating Animals to Aquariums Jay F. Hemdal c.2020 Introduction to acclimation techniques Most beginning aquarists hear that they must “acclimate” any new animals they add to their aquarium. Acclimation (sometimes termed...

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

I just did a full tank transfer in the beginning of December and I acclimated the livestock as If I just purchased them and focused on salinity equalization and all went smooth and has been smooth.

 

[Lasse]

If it was me - I would do daily WC in the QT with help of water from the DT during the last week. On transfer day - Fill a bucket with DT water - out into the garage - net the fish put then in the bucket - fast transport to the DT - just pure the whole bucket into the DT. If your QT is without light - the DT should be the same during the transfer. Let the fish calm down and start to feed the next day.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[LPS Bum]

In general fish aren’t overly sensitive to small fluctuations in pH, and certainly not to alkalinity. If your salinity and temp match up between the tanks, your acclimation time can be very short.

I typically acclimate my QT fish to my DT over the course of about 20-25 min. But my salinity and temp are a spot on match

As for lights, I add my QT’d fish to the display at night, when the lights are off and the tank is dark. With the fish sleeping, there’s far less opportunity for bullying. Most times by morning everyone is good to go.

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

Salinity is the most important factor that needs to be the same between two tanks. dKh is the least important. Temperature and pH are minor differences that need to be accounted for. People forget that the BIGGEST issue is stress from the move itself. Chasing the fish in nets, putting then in a hard sided container where they bruise their noses, hanging them in a tank for lengthy acclimation all add to more stress than most differences in water give.

Lights in the receiving tank should be low, but not off. You don't want the new fish to bump around hitting things it can't see.

If the QT water has no chemicals in it, you can just run and dump. If it does, you need to strain that water off safely.

Here is an article I recently posted on acclimation:

Acclimation Methods

Acclimating Animals to Aquariums Jay F. Hemdal c.2020 Introduction to acclimation techniques Most beginning aquarists hear that they must “acclimate” any new animals they add to their aquarium. Acclimation (sometimes termed...

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

Thanks Jay! I downloaded your article and have it on my reading list.

Billy

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

In general fish aren’t overly sensitive to small fluctuations in pH, and certainly not to alkalinity. If your salinity and temp match up between the tanks, your acclimation time can be very short.

I typically acclimate my QT fish to my DT over the course of about 20-25 min. But my salinity and temp are a spot on match

As for lights, I add my QT’d fish to the display at night, when the lights are off and the tank is dark. With the fish sleeping, there’s far less opportunity for bullying. Most times by morning everyone is good to go.

Awesome thanks!

Billy