Formalin

[Humblefish]

@Big G A correction needs to be made to the OP (my mistake):

The sticky currently reads:

30-60 minute bath treatment: 1 ml per gallon, or 20 drops per gallon.

^^ This dosage is only safe in water temp 70F or lower.

At warmer water temperatures (greater than 70F) the concentration of formalin should be decreased to 150 mg/L for no more than one hour. This works out to 0.6 ml per gallon, or 12 drops per gallon.

Source of this update: http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/Use-of-Formalin-to-Control-Fish-Parasites.pdf

 

[Aussiemarine]

@Humblefish
I had a rabbitfish in QT (TTM) with a mandarin, swallowtail angel and Banggai cardinal. The Rabbitfish was heavily infected but the other fish haven’t seemed to show any symptoms at all.

I performed a 5 minute FW dip on them all and have separated the Rabbitfish from the rest who unfortunately didn’t make it.

I am now treating the fish that haven’t shown any symptoms with metro at about 2x the standard dosage. I am planning on doing a formalin bath (waiting for the 37% to arrive) and will do a 45 min bath - will this be enough to say they shouldn’t bring brook into the display? Like I said they haven’t shown any symptoms at all but we’re in the same tank as the rabbit for about 5 days (but transferred twice to clean sterile tanks during that time). The Rabbitfish only showed symptoms for 2 days before they were separated

 

[blackstallion]

@Humblefish
My tank has literally been wiped out by brook, I have 1 Sailfin Tang left who is now showing signs. I have 2 bottles of Rid Ich Plus on hand. I haven't seen you mention using Rid Ich Plus (unless I missed it) in higher concentrations than the recommended dose to get to a 37% formalin equivalent and treat brook. I've read people using a 5ml/g concentration of Rid Ich Plus to treat brook. What are your thoughts on this? Since I do not have ready access to 37% formalin, I'm considering doing the dip in 2ml/g to 5ml/g Ric Ich Plus concentration in hopes of beating this parasite.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Humblefish
My tank has literally been wiped out by brook, I have 1 Sailfin Tang left who is now showing signs. I have 2 bottles of Rid Ich Plus on hand. I haven't seen you mention using Rid Ich Plus (unless I missed it) in higher concentrations than the recommended dose to get to a 37% formalin equivalent and treat brook. I've read people using a 5ml/g concentration of Rid Ich Plus to treat brook. What are your thoughts on this? Since I do not have ready access to 37% formalin, I'm considering doing the dip in 2ml/g to 5ml/g Ric Ich Plus concentration in hopes of beating this parasite.

Does Rid Ich still have malachite green in it? If so, you shouldn’t dose it at higher concentrations as it will likely be toxic to the fish.
Jay

 

[blackstallion]

Does Rid Ich still have malachite green in it? If so, you shouldn’t dose it at higher concentrations as it will likely be toxic to the fish.
Jay

Yes, it has malachite green. Although at what levels is it toxic?

Thread below from another forum shows success using 5ml/g of Rid Ich Plus to treat brook. Seeing as I do not have ready access to 37% formalin, this may be the fish's only option at survival.

Brookynella much improved with rid-ich bath - Reef Central Online Community

Brookynella much improved with rid-ich bath Fish Disease Treatment

www.reefcentral.com

 

[nkarisny]

FORMALIN
Formalin (37% formaldehyde)

What It Treats – Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella, Uronema, Flukes (Monogeneans), Black Ich (Turbellarians).

How To Treat – In order for Formalin to be fully effective, the product you are using should contain 37% formaldehyde. At present time there is only one aquarium product which meets this criteria: Parasite-S (MSDS is here) from Syndel USA: https://www.syndel.com/parasite-s.html

You can also use 37% UPC lab grade Formaldehyde (Amazon sells it here - also contains 14-15% Methanol which is OK), following these dosing instructions:

When using 37% formaldehyde dosages are as follows for marine environments above 70°F (otherwise follow directions on the product’s label):

1) In-tank treatment: 1 milliliter (ml) per 10 gallons, or 2 drops per gallon daily in a bare aquarium.

2) 30-60 minute bath treatment: 0.6 ml per gallon, or 12 drops per gallon. Aerate vigorously and treat at this concentration for approximately 45 minutes. You can actually treat for a maximum of 60 minutes if the fish seems to be handling the bath fine, but cut it short (30 minutes) if breathing becomes too heavy.

These are other products which contain formaldehyde (e.g. Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus), but because these contain less than 37% formaldehyde their effectiveness is difficult to predict.

Formalin is best administered in a bath solution for 30-45 minutes. The bath is best done in a large glass bowl or container, but a plastic bucket is fine as well. (However, keep in mind that plastic may absorb some of the medication and then leach it back out during future use.)

Temperature/pH/salinity of the bath water should match the tank the fish is coming from (and going into afterwards.) It is very important to heavily aerate the bath for at least 30 minutes before and also during treatment to compensate for oxygen depletion. The fish should be placed in a premixed bath solution. DO NOT add more formalin after the fish is already in the bath.

It is important to always transfer the fish into a new/sterile quarantine tank (QT) post bath. Returning the fish to the same tank you took him out of will just result in reinfection. It is also impossible to determine if just one formalin bath will result in 100% eradication of the pathogen you are trying to eliminate. Therefore, it is wise to do follow-up treatment in a QT:

1) Velvet: Copper or Chloroquine phosphate for 30 days.
2) Brook & Uronema: Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex) or Chloroquine phosphate for 14 days.
3) Flukes & Black Ich: Prazipro or another formalin bath 5-7 days later.

It is also possible to achieve 100% eradication with repeat formalin baths, but it’s important to give the fish 48 hours to recuperate in-between baths. Post bath, always transfer the fish into a new/sterile QT to prevent reinfection. And observe closely for at least 30 days to be sure the fish is 100% disease-free.

You can dose formalin directly into a quarantine tank, but this can be risky due to the harshness of formalin and how quickly it can deplete the water of oxygen. Providing additional gas exchange to the QT is a must! This can be accomplished by using an air stone or pointing a powerhead towards the surface of the water. (Anything that causes ripples at the surface.) A fish being treated must be monitored closely and should be removed if showing signs of distress – this applies when treating in QT or in the bath solution.

Pros – Treats or provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases. In some cases, formalin can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects – Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. Therefore, precautions must be taken when using it. Preventing your skin from coming in contact with it by wearing waterproof gloves and not breathing in any fumes by wearing a face mask is highly recommended. Formalin also can be harsh on the fish’s gills and will quickly deplete oxygen from the water. DO NOT USE if a fish has open wounds. There is anecdotal evidence (but never scientifically proven) that some fish exposed to formalin don’t live past 18-24 months. In some areas, the purchase of formalin is prohibited.

Further reading on using formalin to control fish parasites: http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/Use-of-Formalin-to-Control-Fish-Parasites.pdf

how many baths do the clowns need

 

[nkarisny]

FORMALIN
Formalin (37% formaldehyde)

What It Treats – Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella, Uronema, Flukes (Monogeneans), Black Ich (Turbellarians).

How To Treat – In order for Formalin to be fully effective, the product you are using should contain 37% formaldehyde. At present time there is only one aquarium product which meets this criteria: Parasite-S (MSDS is here) from Syndel USA: https://www.syndel.com/parasite-s.html

You can also use 37% UPC lab grade Formaldehyde (Amazon sells it here - also contains 14-15% Methanol which is OK), following these dosing instructions:

When using 37% formaldehyde dosages are as follows for marine environments above 70°F (otherwise follow directions on the product’s label):

1) In-tank treatment: 1 milliliter (ml) per 10 gallons, or 2 drops per gallon daily in a bare aquarium.

2) 30-60 minute bath treatment: 0.6 ml per gallon, or 12 drops per gallon. Aerate vigorously and treat at this concentration for approximately 45 minutes. You can actually treat for a maximum of 60 minutes if the fish seems to be handling the bath fine, but cut it short (30 minutes) if breathing becomes too heavy.

These are other products which contain formaldehyde (e.g. Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus), but because these contain less than 37% formaldehyde their effectiveness is difficult to predict.

Formalin is best administered in a bath solution for 30-45 minutes. The bath is best done in a large glass bowl or container, but a plastic bucket is fine as well. (However, keep in mind that plastic may absorb some of the medication and then leach it back out during future use.)

Temperature/pH/salinity of the bath water should match the tank the fish is coming from (and going into afterwards.) It is very important to heavily aerate the bath for at least 30 minutes before and also during treatment to compensate for oxygen depletion. The fish should be placed in a premixed bath solution. DO NOT add more formalin after the fish is already in the bath.

It is important to always transfer the fish into a new/sterile quarantine tank (QT) post bath. Returning the fish to the same tank you took him out of will just result in reinfection. It is also impossible to determine if just one formalin bath will result in 100% eradication of the pathogen you are trying to eliminate. Therefore, it is wise to do follow-up treatment in a QT:

1) Velvet: Copper or Chloroquine phosphate for 30 days.
2) Brook & Uronema: Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex) or Chloroquine phosphate for 14 days.
3) Flukes & Black Ich: Prazipro or another formalin bath 5-7 days later.

It is also possible to achieve 100% eradication with repeat formalin baths, but it’s important to give the fish 48 hours to recuperate in-between baths. Post bath, always transfer the fish into a new/sterile QT to prevent reinfection. And observe closely for at least 30 days to be sure the fish is 100% disease-free.

You can dose formalin directly into a quarantine tank, but this can be risky due to the harshness of formalin and how quickly it can deplete the water of oxygen. Providing additional gas exchange to the QT is a must! This can be accomplished by using an air stone or pointing a powerhead towards the surface of the water. (Anything that causes ripples at the surface.) A fish being treated must be monitored closely and should be removed if showing signs of distress – this applies when treating in QT or in the bath solution.

Pros – Treats or provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases. In some cases, formalin can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects – Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. Therefore, precautions must be taken when using it. Preventing your skin from coming in contact with it by wearing waterproof gloves and not breathing in any fumes by wearing a face mask is highly recommended. Formalin also can be harsh on the fish’s gills and will quickly deplete oxygen from the water. DO NOT USE if a fish has open wounds. There is anecdotal evidence (but never scientifically proven) that some fish exposed to formalin don’t live past 18-24 months. In some areas, the purchase of formalin is prohibited.

Further reading on using formalin to control fish parasites: http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/Use-of-Formalin-to-Control-Fish-Parasites.pdf

just did 15 min . thats all my clowns could take or me lol. anyway what do u clean bowl w and hands after ?

 

[lagatbezan]

I usually rinse the equipment very well with lots of water and let it sit and air dry.
always wear gloves, mask and eye protection. You don’t want to handle it with bare hands since it’s carcinogenic.

 

[vetteguy53081]

how many baths do the clowns need

Recommended over 10 days . Typically a standard formalin solution is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container. Initially, all fish are given a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration, followed by continued treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank (QT). Of course, the longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this disease.

 

[fishguy777]

FORMALIN
Formalin (37% formaldehyde)

What It Treats – Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella, Uronema, Flukes (Monogeneans), Black Ich (Turbellarians).

How To Treat – In order for Formalin to be fully effective, the product you are using should contain 37% formaldehyde. At present time there is only one aquarium product which meets this criteria: Parasite-S (MSDS is here) from Syndel USA: https://www.syndel.com/parasite-s.html

You can also use 37% UPC lab grade Formaldehyde (Amazon sells it here - also contains 14-15% Methanol which is OK), following these dosing instructions:

When using 37% formaldehyde dosages are as follows for marine environments above 70°F (otherwise follow directions on the product’s label):

1) In-tank treatment: 0.94 milliliter (ml) per 10 gallons

2) 30-60 minute bath treatment: 0.55 ml per gallon. Aerate vigorously and treat at this concentration for approximately 45 minutes. You can actually treat for a maximum of 60 minutes if the fish seems to be handling the bath fine, but cut it short (30 minutes) if breathing becomes too heavy.

These are other products which contain formaldehyde (e.g. Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus), but because these contain less than 37% formaldehyde their effectiveness is difficult to predict.

Formalin is best administered in a bath solution for 30-45 minutes. The bath is best done in a large glass bowl or container, but a plastic bucket is fine as well. (However, keep in mind that plastic may absorb some of the medication and then leach it back out during future use.)

Temperature/pH/salinity of the bath water should match the tank the fish is coming from (and going into afterwards.) It is very important to heavily aerate the bath for at least 30 minutes before and also during treatment to compensate for oxygen depletion. The fish should be placed in a premixed bath solution. DO NOT add more formalin after the fish is already in the bath.

Do not dose formalin or other reducing agents in the same water as Cupramine, as that may release toxic amounts of free copper.

It is important to always transfer the fish into a new/sterile quarantine tank (QT) post bath. Returning the fish to the same tank you took him out of will just result in reinfection. It is also impossible to determine if just one formalin bath will result in 100% eradication of the pathogen you are trying to eliminate. Therefore, it is wise to do follow-up treatment in a QT:

1) Velvet: Copper or Chloroquine phosphate for 30 days.
2) Brook & Uronema: Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex) or Chloroquine phosphate for 14 days.
3) Flukes & Black Ich: Prazipro or another formalin bath 5-7 days later.

It is also possible to achieve 100% eradication with repeat formalin baths, but it’s important to give the fish 48 hours to recuperate in-between baths. Post bath, always transfer the fish into a new/sterile QT to prevent reinfection. And observe closely for at least 30 days to be sure the fish is 100% disease-free.

You can dose formalin directly into a quarantine tank, but this can be risky due to the harshness of formalin and how quickly it can deplete the water of oxygen. Providing additional gas exchange to the QT is a must! This can be accomplished by using an air stone or pointing a powerhead towards the surface of the water. (Anything that causes ripples at the surface.) A fish being treated must be monitored closely and should be removed if showing signs of distress – this applies when treating in QT or in the bath solution.

Pros – Treats or provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases. In some cases, formalin can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects – Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. Therefore, precautions must be taken when using it. Preventing your skin from coming in contact with it by wearing waterproof gloves and not breathing in any fumes by wearing a face mask is highly recommended. Formalin also can be harsh on the fish’s gills and will quickly deplete oxygen from the water. DO NOT USE if a fish has open wounds. There is anecdotal evidence (but never scientifically proven) that some fish exposed to formalin don’t live past 18-24 months. In some areas, the purchase of formalin is prohibited.

Further reading on using formalin to control fish parasites: http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/Use-of-Formalin-to-Control-Fish-Parasites.pdf

Hi sir, I have a blue spotted stingray that has black spots-with texture, on his body. They look like acne blackheads. I was recommended to try prazi at earlier stages, and formalin bath dip if necessary, he’s progressing in a negative direction so I think I should do the dip.
I have a 5 gallon bucket, and an aerator, thinking I should also throw in a heater?

Is the product link you put in your post safe with rays? Secondly, I don’t have a QT big enough for him atm, biggest thing I got is a 40 gallon storage container that I used to hold fish during tank swaps.

With this in mind, how should I go about curing the ray? I’m approaching the 2 month mark with him, he’s still eating a decent amount.

Thankyou

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi sir, I have a blue spotted stingray that has black spots-with texture, on his body. They look like acne blackheads. I was recommended to try prazi at earlier stages, and formalin bath dip if necessary, he’s progressing in a negative direction so I think I should do the dip.
I have a 5 gallon bucket, and an aerator, thinking I should also throw in a heater?

Is the product link you put in your post safe with rays? Secondly, I don’t have a QT big enough for him atm, biggest thing I got is a 40 gallon storage container that I used to hold fish during tank swaps.

With this in mind, how should I go about curing the ray? I’m approaching the 2 month mark with him, he’s still eating a decent amount.

Thankyou

Formalin has to be diluted precisely at 37& and I recommend general cure which has a trace of formalin and prazi

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hi sir, I have a blue spotted stingray that has black spots-with texture, on his body. They look like acne blackheads. I was recommended to try prazi at earlier stages, and formalin bath dip if necessary, he’s progressing in a negative direction so I think I should do the dip.
I have a 5 gallon bucket, and an aerator, thinking I should also throw in a heater?

Is the product link you put in your post safe with rays? Secondly, I don’t have a QT big enough for him atm, biggest thing I got is a 40 gallon storage container that I used to hold fish during tank swaps.

With this in mind, how should I go about curing the ray? I’m approaching the 2 month mark with him, he’s still eating a decent amount.

Thankyou

I would try a formalin dip on this ray. I would start with 150 ppm in a bucket of tank water with GOOD aeration for 45 minutes. To calculate the dose, multiply the volume of water in the bucket by 150 and divide by 254. That will give you milliliters of formalin to use (assuming you have 100% formalin, which is 35% formaldehyde gas in water). For example; if you bucket holds 4 gallons; 4 * 150 / 264 = 2.3 ml formalin

Be sure to handle the formalin carefully and use proper PPE - it is toxic.

Now - the formalin dip won't cure the ray, but if it has external parasites, the dip will show an improvement in the ray for a few days after the dip. You may also be able to identify any parasites that fall off the ray during the dip.

 

[fishguy777]

I would try a formalin dip on this ray. I would start with 150 ppm in a bucket of tank water with GOOD aeration for 45 minutes. To calculate the dose, multiply the volume of water in the bucket by 150 and divide by 254. That will give you milliliters of formalin to use (assuming you have 100% formalin, which is 35% formaldehyde gas in water). For example; if you bucket holds 4 gallons; 4 * 150 / 264 = 2.3 ml formalin

Be sure to handle the formalin carefully and use proper PPE - it is toxic.

Now - the formalin dip won't cure the ray, but if it has external parasites, the dip will show an improvement in the ray for a few days after the dip. You may also be able to identify any parasites that fall off the ray during the dip.

What would cure the ray? If there is a cure?

How long would you say my time to act is? I have a huge exam this Monday, so is it possible to do Tuesday or Wednesday? The black dots are up and down his tail, and unfortunately he does seem to be skinnier.

He is still eating well

 

[vetteguy53081]

What would cure the ray? If there is a cure?

How long would you say my time to act is? I have a huge exam this Monday, so is it possible to do Tuesday or Wednesday? The black dots are up and down his tail, and unfortunately he does seem to be skinnier.

He is still eating well

General cure ( contains formalin

Formalin base ( formaldehyde as described by Jay)

 

[Jay Hemdal]

What would cure the ray? If there is a cure?

How long would you say my time to act is? I have a huge exam this Monday, so is it possible to do Tuesday or Wednesday? The black dots are up and down his tail, and unfortunately he does seem to be skinnier.

He is still eating well

Formalin dips and moving the ray to a NEW tank three times would cure it of external parasites, but is not practical in the home situation of course. You might be able to rig up doing that in big plastic totes. I think the first step though is to see if the problem is lessened by doing a dip....

Sorry, I cannot say if the ray has a specific treatment timeline here.....

If it is getting noticeably thinner, are you sure you are feeding it enough?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Also, please post video of the ray under white light intensity to help with assessment

 

[fishguy777]

Also, please post video of the ray under white light intensity to help with assessment

The spots that I could record with the camera are on his head, those ones are the most dominant. He has few on his underside, he has quite a few going up and down his tail, but they are smaller.

In the video you can also see how skinny he is, I’m assuming this is because of the parasites. As he is one of the more aggressive eaters in the tank

He is eating very well still, eating in the video. He still has a large appetite, I’m feeding him 1-2x a day

Is it worth it to dose prazi in the tank still? Jay recommended it a couple days ago, the spots weren’t as bad then, the prazi arrived today.

I’m cleaning the tank today

 

[fishguy777]

Formalin dips and moving the ray to a NEW tank three times would cure it of external parasites, but is not practical in the home situation of course. You might be able to rig up doing that in big plastic totes. I think the first step though is to see if the problem is lessened by doing a dip....

Sorry, I cannot say if the ray has a specific treatment timeline here.....

If it is getting noticeably thinner, are you sure you are feeding it enough?

A couple days ago I missed two feeding days, that’s around when he started getting skinny. Is prazi out of the question now? The prazi I thought I had was actually expired so I never used it. The new prazi bottle comes today, should I still try it?

 

[vetteguy53081]

The spots that I could record with the camera are on his head, those ones are the most dominant. He has few on his underside, he has quite a few going up and down his tail, but they are smaller.

In the video you can also see how skinny he is, I’m assuming this is because of the parasites. As he is one of the more aggressive eaters in the tank

He is eating very well still, eating in the video. He still has a large appetite, I’m feeding him 1-2x a day

Is it worth it to dose prazi in the tank still? Jay recommended it a couple days ago, the spots weren’t as bad then, the prazi arrived today.

I’m cleaning the tank today

Its in with a community tank and there is a lot of debris floating. What is your nitrate level as elevated nitrate can cause this with the Ray. Skin irritation is another.
What is your method of filtration?

 

[fishguy777]

Its in with a community tank and there is a lot of debris floating. What is your nitrate level as elevated nitrate can cause this with the Ray. Skin irritation is another.
What is your method of filtration?

I’m going to test nitrates now, this was during feeding though, also I had heavy aeration running through a wave maker right before I took the video

I have a skimmer for up to 800 gallons, 400 with a heavy bioload, 80lbs of LR, 180lbs of live sand, 55 watt lifeguard UV, 4 4” filter socks, hair algae refugium