Flame Angel Ich????

[Aaron Davis]

Man. Been posting on this forum a lot lately.

Anywho. I have my flame angel here who I've the last 6 hours, has all of a sudden developed a couple white spots on his tail fin. I don't see any anywhere else on him and he is VERY active. Fantastic color everywhere else; Very vivid. It's odd because last night I noticed my six line wrasses had a single white spot on his left fin, but it really only looked like it was some sand stuck to his fin. Was gone about 15 mins later. So can someone help me out with this? I don't have a quarantine tank set up yet (in progress). Also, can someone identify this algae? Is it hair algae and what are all the spots on it? Sand? Thanks!!!!!!

Aaron

 

[Aaron Davis]

I also see now that it looks like my arrow crab has some spots on his legs????? What the freak is going on?

 

[melypr1985]

Ich will stay on the fish for several days. If the spots are gone within a couple hours, then it's most likely sand and nothing to worry about. It does look like it could be ick in that top picture, but you'll know if it sticks around (in the same spot) for several days.

Don't worry about the arrow crab. They can't be effected by ick aside from being a vehicle for tomonts to be carried into the display.

 

[Aaron Davis]

@melypr1985 aaannnnndddd thanks again! Lol. I didn't think that the crab could get ich, so I was confused when I saw spots. My flame still has the spots in the same place as of 30 mins ago. If it turns out to be ich, recommended way to treat???? Without a quarantine tank. Thanks again.

Aaron

 

[Humblefish]

^^ Agree with Meredith; the white spots on his tail fin could also be Lympho. But I would get rid of that arrow crab as they are known fish eaters.

 

[Aaron Davis]

@Humblefish ive had that arrow crab in there for approx 4 months without an issue. Never had him eat or attack a fish, but I'll keep an eye on him. Lympho? I'll have to look that up. Any recommended treatments for ich or lympho without the use of a quarantine tank? Since I don't have one yet.

 

[Humblefish]

@Humblefish ive had that arrow crab in there for approx 4 months without an issue. Never had him eat or attack a fish, but I'll keep an eye on him. Lympho? I'll have to look that up. Any recommended treatments for ich or lympho without the use of a quarantine tank? Since I don't have one yet.

More info on Lympho: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lymphocystis.257461/

Only way to deal with ich in a DT w/corals & inverts is to manage it: Ich eradication vs. Ich management

 

[melypr1985]

Only way to deal with ich in a DT w/corals & inverts is to manage it: Ich eradication vs. Ich management

+1 It's not ideal, and there is no way to eradicate ick in the display without a QT and fallow period.

 

[4FordFamily]

IME flame angels get ich on their tail fins and other fins first rather frequently.

 

[Aaron Davis]

Thanks guys! Those articles helped a lot. I think I will be focusing on getting my QT set up quickly now. Thanks again.

 

[Aaron Davis]

@melypr1985 and @Humblefish

Soooooo, my angel has ich for sure. Luckily, I had just come home with a 10 gallon to setup a quarantine for when I get new fish. Filled up the QT with Water from my DT and did a little water change at the same time. I'd like to do the ich iradicatjon method and leave my DT fallow for the 76 days. In case you don't remember, I got the four fish. A small six line, a blenny, the angel, the clown. I threw some live rock in the tank and some sand for the blenny and the six line. Would it be alright to keep these guys in that 10 gal and treat with copramine; and when treatment is done, keep them in there for the rest of the fallow period? Obviously, this isn't ideal, but I only got the 10 gal for when I was adding new fish. If they'd be alright for the fallow period, I'd consider this lesson learned and start quarantining all my new additions. It was a total pain to tear apart my aquascape to catch the wrasse and angel. Lol

 

[Humblefish]

@Aaron Davis A 10 gal should work, but you're going to have to keep a very close eye on ammonia. I suggest picking up a Seachem ammonia alert badge for active monitoring.

Also, the LR & sand will absorb some of the copper and make it difficult to maintain a stable concentration. So I suggest using something like an Aquaclear 50 HOB for biological filtration instead.

 

[melypr1985]

@Aaron Davis A 10 gal should work, but you're going to have to keep a very close eye on ammonia. I suggest picking up a Seachem ammonia alert badge for active monitoring.

Also, the LR & sand will absorb some of the copper and make it difficult to maintain a stable concentration. So I suggest using something like an Aquaclear 50 HOB for biological filtration instead.

+1

 

[Aaron Davis]

@Aaron Davis A 10 gal should work, but you're going to have to keep a very close eye on ammonia. I suggest picking up a Seachem ammonia alert badge for active monitoring.

Also, the LR & sand will absorb some of the copper and make it difficult to maintain a stable concentration. So I suggest using something like an Aquaclear 50 HOB for biological filtration instead.

So this 10 gallon came with a HOB power filter, but the filters have carbon in them. So instead, I threw a sponge filter in there that I had in my DT to transfer over some of the beneficial bacteria and what not. This tank has a lid that's kind of unique and the power filter isn't a traditional shape. So I couldn't use a Aquaclear unless I removed the lid, at which point I'd be worried the fish might jump out. Is there an alternative I could do or would using that little sponge I already threw in there be alright? I threw in some PVC for the angel and clown. I only put the live rock in for the wrasse and blenny. Should I just remove that? Thanks!

Crap. Also, how do I handle the ammonia spikes? Just water changes? I shouldn't use ammonia clearing chemicals while treating correct?

 

[melypr1985]

Is there an alternative I could do or would using that little sponge I already threw in there be alright?

That will be fine, but you may want to add additional sponge to house more bacteria.

I only put the live rock in for the wrasse and blenny. Should I just remove that?

Yes, you'll want to remove the live rock.

 

[Aaron Davis]

That will be fine, but you may want to add additional sponge to house more bacteria.

Yes, you'll want to remove the live rock.

Thanks @melypr1985 and @Humblefish

 

[Aaron Davis]

Alright pros. New question popped up and I've seen various answers through research; so I thought I'd reach out again for quality answers. My fish are in their hospital tank. I checked parameters prior to dosing the Cupramine. Did the first dose at 1400 today. Checked parameters again. Nitrates have gone up some. They're at about a 30 right now. So when should I do a water change while dosing copper? I almost just did one, then thought that it would take away some of the medication. So should I wait till the next dose is due, perform a water change first, then administer the second dose? That's in approx 40 hours though. Advice? Ammonia is good to go still. Fingers crossed.

 

[melypr1985]

Alright pros. New question popped up and I've seen various answers through research; so I thought I'd reach out again for quality answers. My fish are in their hospital tank. I checked parameters prior to dosing the Cupramine. Did the first dose at 1400 today. Checked parameters again. Nitrates have gone up some. They're at about a 30 right now. So when should I do a water change while dosing copper? I almost just did one, then thought that it would take away some of the medication. So should I wait till the next dose is due, perform a water change first, then administer the second dose? That's in approx 40 hours though. Advice? Ammonia is good to go still. Fingers crossed.

Don't do a water change unless you see ammonia or for regular maintenance. Be sure to dose the copper into the new water before adding it to the QT so the levels never drop.... they only rise or stay the same depending on your goal. Nitrates in a QT are not something you need to be concerned about. Plus, most of these liquid test kits will give false positives when copper is present in the water.

 

[Humblefish]

Don't do a water change unless you see ammonia or for regular maintenance. Be sure to dose the copper into the new water before adding it to the QT so the levels never drop.... they only rise or stay the same depending on your goal. Nitrates in a QT are not something you need to be concerned about. Plus, most of these liquid test kits will give false positives when copper is present in the water.

^^ Exactly

 

[Aaron Davis]

Don't do a water change unless you see ammonia or for regular maintenance. Be sure to dose the copper into the new water before adding it to the QT so the levels never drop.... they only rise or stay the same depending on your goal. Nitrates in a QT are not something you need to be concerned about. Plus, most of these liquid test kits will give false positives when copper is present in the water.

Ok. So I dosed the first copper dose directly to the quarantine. Oops? You're saying that when I go to do a water change, I should dose the new water first then add it to the tank? Sounds straight forward. Hypothetically, if I wasn't going to do a water change in 2 days, would it be fine to dose the tank directly again? Or is that improper practice?