Fish got Ich (guarenteed) and Velvet (i think)

[AmazingYocool]

Im at school right now so I cant give the images, but I'm positive that they have both ich and velvet. I ordered Cupramine by Seachem last night on amazon as all my local petstores dont own it and it should be home when im back from school. Luckily my fish survived throughout the night.

Ive never done a copper dip and dont know the dosing. Im pretty sure it has to be much more than the bottle reccomends because its a dip and not going directly into the tank.

Before I dip them I was just wondering if yall had any advice such as how long to dip for, or anything like that.

If it helps the fish in my tank are infected are a Boxfish, 2 Clowns, and a talbot damsel. The other fish that arent infected are my soldier fish and diamond goby


Thank you guys!

PS: I still dont know what caused this... It could have been the boxfish getting ich and spreading it or him releasing posion. Any thoughts??

Thanks again yall

 

[Bruttall]

If 1 fish has Ick or Velvet your entire tank is infected. Sorry. If you have coral and inverts you need to remove fish for 90 days leave tank fishless or FALLOW. Put fish into a Hospital or Quarantine Tank and dose Copper. There are a bunch of threads on how to therapeutically treat your fish in QT by people a lot smarter than I.

Good Luck.

 

[jhadaway117]

Brutall is correct. You'll need to remove all of them and quarantine them in a separate tank regardless if they are showing signs. I had a couple clownfish and watchman goby that got ich from a Royal Gramma that I didn't quarantine. The clowns had the typical white spots but the goby did not. He was flashing though. The dip may provide temporary relief, but the ich will still be present in you DT and most likely they will get it again. I used copper safe in a separate tank and let my display tank go fallow for the recommended amount of time for Ich to die out. If you don't have any coral or inverts, or plan on getting them, you can use this in your main tank.

 

[AmazingYocool]

If 1 fish has Ick or Velvet your entire tank is infected. Sorry. If you have coral and inverts you need to remove fish for 90 days leave tank fishless or FALLOW. Put fish into a Hospital or Quarantine Tank and dose Copper. There are a bunch of threads on how to therapeutically treat your fish in QT by people a lot smarter than I.

Good Luck.

all i have is a empty 10 gallon that i could convert into a hospital tank. i fear putting them all so close will cause them to quarrel.. (specifically the big eye soldier fish) All i can really do rn is dip and feed general cure and vitality. i wish i had a bigger unused tank

thank you guys so much

 

[Tamberav]

Im at school right now so I cant give the images, but I'm positive that they have both ich and velvet. I ordered Cupramine by Seachem last night on amazon as all my local petstores dont own it and it should be home when im back from school. Luckily my fish survived throughout the night.

Ive never done a copper dip and dont know the dosing. Im pretty sure it has to be much more than the bottle reccomends because its a dip and not going directly into the tank.

Before I dip them I was just wondering if yall had any advice such as how long to dip for, or anything like that.

If it helps the fish in my tank are infected are a Boxfish, 2 Clowns, and a talbot damsel. The other fish that arent infected are my soldier fish and diamond goby


Thank you guys!

PS: I still dont know what caused this... It could have been the boxfish getting ich and spreading it or him releasing posion. Any thoughts??

Thanks again yall

A copper dip will not cure ich or velvet or even provide much help... copper does not affect all life cycles of the parasite, that is why the fish needs to STAY in copper at a therapeutic dose.

Cupramine is also not a dip.

You can use a plastic heavy duty tote to house fish, it is harder to see them since you can only look top down but it can be done.

You will want to order a copper test kit... too little and it doesn't cure disease, too high can kill or at least cause undue stress.

Copper treatment

Copper treatment What It Treats – Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) and Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum). There is some anecdotal evidence that copper will suppress symptoms of Brooklynella hostilis and Uronema marinum; however it is unlikely to completely eradicate either. How...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[AmazingYocool]

thanks yall for the advice.
My 15 gal QT is ready for fish. Should i add EVERY fish to keep the velvet from coming back? and how can i correctly "fallow" my tank and remove that velvet and ich for good?

and I heard that I can add a small box of sand for the diamond goby. Will this be ok to dose copper in the QT?

the current survivors are:
1 clown
Big eye soldier fish
2 Talbot damsel
diamond goby


thanks again

 

[Dread Pirate Dave]

The sand will absorb the copper so you'll need to check the level often and make sure it is at a therapeutic level. You are only using a small amount of sand so that shouldn't cause as much of a drop. When I treated my watchman goby it seemed like I was adding more coppersafe every day. But this was a 20 gallon tank with 2 inches of sand on the bottom.

 

[Bruttall]

Put all your fish into QT. Leaving your main tank fallow or fishless, same meaning. if you have inverts remember to feed them occasionally, like you do your fish but maybe only 1 time every week. Ick/Velvet have a multi stage life cycle, you need to let that cycle run it's full duration so the parasites morph into the phase where they attach to fish, with no fish they die in that phase.

Even after all that I would suggest you start running a UV sterilizer. I have one set to flow at 300gph for ick/velvet management. Going forward before you add any fish after this, always QT them. If you get in real good with your LFS they will either hold fish, or let you put a deposit to hold while you can observe them in a tank for a few weeks in the store.

I have read that once you have ick, you always have ick. it never really truly dies but your fish develop immunity to it and having things like a UV help to manage it to keep your fish from out breaks.

Hope this helps
Good luck

 

[Ross]

Depending on how much coral and inverts you have, it may be easier to remove them and treat your main tank with copper.

 

[Spare time]

If you can't remove them all, you can do hyposalinity in the display (this will kill inverts/corals).

 

[AmazingYocool]

Put all your fish into QT. Leaving your main tank fallow or fishless, same meaning. if you have inverts remember to feed them occasionally, like you do your fish but maybe only 1 time every week. Ick/Velvet have a multi stage life cycle, you need to let that cycle run it's full duration so the parasites morph into the phase where they attach to fish, with no fish they die in that phase.

Even after all that I would suggest you start running a UV sterilizer. I have one set to flow at 300gph for ick/velvet management. Going forward before you add any fish after this, always QT them. If you get in real good with your LFS they will either hold fish, or let you put a deposit to hold while you can observe them in a tank for a few weeks in the store.

I have read that once you have ick, you always have ick. it never really truly dies but your fish develop immunity to it and having things like a UV help to manage it to keep your fish from out breaks.

Hope this helps
Good luck

thanks, i actually did all of this. they are all in the QT rn. Sadly, the clown I had died. The only survibors currently are the Big eye Soldier fish, daimond goby, and 2 talbot damsels.

I ordered a green away something UV steralizer; one meant for 55 gallons.

I appreciate you taking the time to help me! How long would you reccomend i keep them in QT before I add them back? I have no light on the QT. Should I get a small one or keep it dark to reduce stress?

also one thing im struggling on is my diamond goby. he looks depressed without sand. Ik it will soak copper but how do other reefers manage that??

Thanks again!

 

[Spare time]

thanks, i actually did all of this. they are all in the QT rn. Sadly, the clown I had died. The only survibors currently are the Big eye Soldier fish, daimond goby, and 2 talbot damsels.

I ordered a green away something UV steralizer; one meant for 55 gallons.

I appreciate you taking the time to help me! How long would you reccomend i keep them in QT before I add them back? I have no light on the QT. Should I get a small one or keep it dark to reduce stress?

also one thing im struggling on is my diamond goby. he looks depressed without sand. Ik it will soak copper but how do other reefers manage that??

Thanks again!

PS you can add silica based sand to the qt.

 

[jhadaway117]

thanks, i actually did all of this. they are all in the QT rn. Sadly, the clown I had died. The only survibors currently are the Big eye Soldier fish, daimond goby, and 2 talbot damsels.

I ordered a green away something UV steralizer; one meant for 55 gallons.

I appreciate you taking the time to help me! How long would you reccomend i keep them in QT before I add them back? I have no light on the QT. Should I get a small one or keep it dark to reduce stress?

also one thing im struggling on is my diamond goby. he looks depressed without sand. Ik it will soak copper but how do other reefers manage that??

Thanks again!

I believe it's 6 weeks for the parasite to completely run its cycle and die out. I went 8 weeks just to make sure and I haven't seen any sign of it since returning them back their tank. I used sand in my qt tank and bought a live rock from my lfs to jumpstart the cycle. I did use a light also, but it was a cheap white light that I turned off and on manually. I dosed with copper for two weeks and checked levels every couple of days. I did water changes once a week just to keep from getting an ammonia spike. After the water changed I dosed appropriately to maintain the therapeutic levels needed to kill the ich. 1.5 to 2PPM is what you want to shoot for.