Deducks99
New Member
Hello fellow reef enthusiasts!
I'm new to the reef hobby and this is my saltwater tank that I started about a year ago.
I have built everything on my own and have expanded the capabilities as I went and learned more about the hobby. Its definitely not the cleanest setup out there and I have made a lot of mistakes, but I keep learning. This was more budget friendly for me than buying everything at once. Hope you enjoy and can learn from my learnings and mistakes.
The tank is a 112 Gallon Glass SCA aquarium, I mainly have LPS corals, with a couple sps, and softies/polyps. For livestocks i have a blue tang, devil damsel, Coral beauty angel fish, manderin dragonnet, 3 clowns, melanarus wrasse, a sixline wrasse, 2 or 3 chromis, and a puffer.
The PLC is a automation direct Click PLC. They start pretty cheap (around $200) and come with free software and are expandable. I am not a programmer by trade but it wasn't too bad.
There is a small HMI (c-more) automation direct that controls the PLC and allows you to set parameters, it also comes with free software. This one also wasn't too bad.
The tank is lighted with 6 x 80W T5 bulbs (currently have 1 actinic , 3 blue plus, one coral blue, one purple). I have already replaced them once about 6 months ago and planning on replacing them again shortly. These are controlled with relay outputs on the PLC. I can change time they are on via the HMI. The hood came with the aquarium and I mounted the t5's in the hood. Every 2 bulbs is controlled on a separate circuit.
The skimmer / return pump and circulation fans (powerheads) are controlled by the PLC. They turn off when the feed button is pressed. I also have an automatic feed (for the corals) for the fish when I go on vacation. This feed button stops the skimmer, return pump, and powerheads for several minutes. The skimmer/return pump came with aquarium. I have one jabeo powerhead and one icecap gyre.
I have a used yokogawa pH transmitter and endress + hauser pH probe which i got off ebay. I have been very happy with the performance of the transmitter and probe. I started with an atlas scientific probe and have found the endress probe far superior in terms of noise and holding a calibration. The pH probe features a solution ground, shielded cable, and PT100 temperature compensation. I think the solution ground / shield cable helps reduce noise from surrounding AC equipment in an aquarium application. The transmitter communicates to the PLC (for logging/dosing) via 4-20mA analogue. I have a bypass loop setup in my sump which constantly flows water around the probe. The pH probe is used mainly for logging and tracking. I also have the probe configured to stop alk / calcium dosing setup in the PLC if the pH is above 8.5 although thankfully I have never seen this happen yet.
I also have a used yokogawa inductive (torodial) conductivity sensor and transmitter which I got off ebay. I did some research on the conductivity sensors, I think the inductive sensor is a great solution for saltwater tanks. It is not susceptible to fouling, and has a simple single point calibration (you air zero it). I find it is very accurate vs. refractometer and my hand held Hanna checker. The transmitter sends temperature compensated conductivity back to the PLC over 4-20mA analogue. I also send temperature back to my PLC through the second 4-20mA output on the transmitter. I convert the conductivity to salinity in the PLC for logging and tie into automatic top off.
2 brute trashcans (one for salt, one for RODI) are setup in my basement and are pumped up to the tank. The RODI is used as an automatic top off, as it is tied into a level switch in the sump. If the salinity is below 34 ppt top off is disabled by the PLC. The Saltwater can be used for automatic water changes. I have a 24V control signal wired to relays and hand switches to control the pumps manually if necessary.
I also have added an actuated ball valve (runs on 12VDC) setup on my return pump, which i use for automatic water changes (engaged by button on touchscreen). This is tied in directly to my sewer. Water is run to the sewer until the low level switch in the sump is hit, then the tank refills with salt water. The protein skimmer cup is also automatically emptied everyday (to sewer) using a BRS 33 mL/min peristaltic pump.
2 part is dosed using two BRS 1.1 mL pumps. I can change the number of times / day / time per dose via the touch screen.
Let me know what you think or if you have any questions or if you have any ideas for me!
I'm new to the reef hobby and this is my saltwater tank that I started about a year ago.
I have built everything on my own and have expanded the capabilities as I went and learned more about the hobby. Its definitely not the cleanest setup out there and I have made a lot of mistakes, but I keep learning. This was more budget friendly for me than buying everything at once. Hope you enjoy and can learn from my learnings and mistakes.
The tank is a 112 Gallon Glass SCA aquarium, I mainly have LPS corals, with a couple sps, and softies/polyps. For livestocks i have a blue tang, devil damsel, Coral beauty angel fish, manderin dragonnet, 3 clowns, melanarus wrasse, a sixline wrasse, 2 or 3 chromis, and a puffer.
The PLC is a automation direct Click PLC. They start pretty cheap (around $200) and come with free software and are expandable. I am not a programmer by trade but it wasn't too bad.
There is a small HMI (c-more) automation direct that controls the PLC and allows you to set parameters, it also comes with free software. This one also wasn't too bad.
The tank is lighted with 6 x 80W T5 bulbs (currently have 1 actinic , 3 blue plus, one coral blue, one purple). I have already replaced them once about 6 months ago and planning on replacing them again shortly. These are controlled with relay outputs on the PLC. I can change time they are on via the HMI. The hood came with the aquarium and I mounted the t5's in the hood. Every 2 bulbs is controlled on a separate circuit.
The skimmer / return pump and circulation fans (powerheads) are controlled by the PLC. They turn off when the feed button is pressed. I also have an automatic feed (for the corals) for the fish when I go on vacation. This feed button stops the skimmer, return pump, and powerheads for several minutes. The skimmer/return pump came with aquarium. I have one jabeo powerhead and one icecap gyre.
I have a used yokogawa pH transmitter and endress + hauser pH probe which i got off ebay. I have been very happy with the performance of the transmitter and probe. I started with an atlas scientific probe and have found the endress probe far superior in terms of noise and holding a calibration. The pH probe features a solution ground, shielded cable, and PT100 temperature compensation. I think the solution ground / shield cable helps reduce noise from surrounding AC equipment in an aquarium application. The transmitter communicates to the PLC (for logging/dosing) via 4-20mA analogue. I have a bypass loop setup in my sump which constantly flows water around the probe. The pH probe is used mainly for logging and tracking. I also have the probe configured to stop alk / calcium dosing setup in the PLC if the pH is above 8.5 although thankfully I have never seen this happen yet.
I also have a used yokogawa inductive (torodial) conductivity sensor and transmitter which I got off ebay. I did some research on the conductivity sensors, I think the inductive sensor is a great solution for saltwater tanks. It is not susceptible to fouling, and has a simple single point calibration (you air zero it). I find it is very accurate vs. refractometer and my hand held Hanna checker. The transmitter sends temperature compensated conductivity back to the PLC over 4-20mA analogue. I also send temperature back to my PLC through the second 4-20mA output on the transmitter. I convert the conductivity to salinity in the PLC for logging and tie into automatic top off.
2 brute trashcans (one for salt, one for RODI) are setup in my basement and are pumped up to the tank. The RODI is used as an automatic top off, as it is tied into a level switch in the sump. If the salinity is below 34 ppt top off is disabled by the PLC. The Saltwater can be used for automatic water changes. I have a 24V control signal wired to relays and hand switches to control the pumps manually if necessary.
I also have added an actuated ball valve (runs on 12VDC) setup on my return pump, which i use for automatic water changes (engaged by button on touchscreen). This is tied in directly to my sewer. Water is run to the sewer until the low level switch in the sump is hit, then the tank refills with salt water. The protein skimmer cup is also automatically emptied everyday (to sewer) using a BRS 33 mL/min peristaltic pump.
2 part is dosed using two BRS 1.1 mL pumps. I can change the number of times / day / time per dose via the touch screen.
Let me know what you think or if you have any questions or if you have any ideas for me!
