Everything is Dead, Including All Bristleworms

CarolynZ

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Messages
28
Reaction score
43
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I will try to keep this from being long winded. I will try just to include facts and keep the emotion out of it.

My system:

180 gal DT
Basement sump - 150 gal rubbermaid stock tank, external Bashsea Skimmer, 1 GFO reactor, 1 GAF reactor, Bashsea bio reactor (big tall thingy with red plastic beads that look like pasta. Reminds me of a lava lamp and I love to watch it.
5 stage RODI unit (I just added 2 more stages)
Water source is drilled well which is likely spring fed.
2 Kessil Ap700
1 Kessil 160
Apex unit with EB832, 1 dosing pump for Bionic 2 part calcium and magnesium.
Trident unit
How many lbs of live rock: I don't know. A lot. Rock in DT along with extra in sump


Former system:

Used 90 gal DT with sump. Came with aged rock which I used and added some new.

This rock along with some new rock was added to the new 180 gal DT. New sand with handful of old sand from 90 gal was used on set up August 2018.

History: The 180 gal was well stocked with fish. The usual tangs (yellow, tomini, sailfin - all went in together. no issues) 1 fox face, a pair of osc. clowns, coral beauty, royal gramma, 3 anthias, 3 blue green chromis, 3 springeri damsels. 1 blood shrimp, hermit crabs and lots of various snails.

We were struggling to get detectable nutrients so more fish were added: 1 flasher wrasse and 1 long nosed hawk fish November 2019, 1 Bally Lubbocks wrasse and 2 bengai cardinal fish December 2019.

As for corals, a neon green Ausie cabbage leather, a special finger leather, small frag of green kenya tree, 5 mushrooms, 4 florida ricordia, 1 yummy, 1 2-headed duncan and a healthy elegance coral (the light of my life). I also had a small Ausie toadstool frag and 3 rock anemones.
I had been unsuccessful with 2 montipora frags and 1 small acropora. They were purchased in the spring of 2019. Although they had been growing and encrusting, they died that summer when alk spiked to 9 with 0 nutrients. I then changed salts from Red Sea Coral Pro to Aquavitro Salinity.

Now, here is the hard part. I was an absentee tank owner from January to end of March. The owner of the LFS where I buy all my fish, corals and supplies was hired to tend to my tank once a week. My daughter was in charge of making sure I had top up water for the ATO, make the water change water, and feed a little frozen food once a day. I also had an auto feeder that fed 3 times a day.

My fish store guy is very obsessive and would bring his own equipment to check and double check the salinity level of my water change water. He would adjust it as needed. The salt water was made and heated 1 or two days before his scheduled visit. A power head kept it circulating the whole time.

Parameters
January 27 to Feb 3 Alk Min 7.62 Average 7.83 Maximum 8.2
Calcium Min 413 Average 421 Maximum 432
Mag always around 1247
PH Min 7.78 Average 7.86 Maximum 7.96
Temp is always between 78F and 79 F

Red slim had been starting to appear in January. Nothing major. I had my skimmer skimming dry in an effort to increase nutrients. On January 14 my tank guy reported that phosphates were higher than he would like to see them, especially with some red slime. I can't remember the exact number but they were something like 0.2 with a Hanna Checker. Nitrates with salifert were 5. The Duncan coral was not as extended as it should be but everything else looked fine. He dialled in the skimmer to skim a little more wet.

Jan 28 visit: Phophate was 0.00 with hanna checker
nitrates were 2.5 ish
Duncan was more extended and everything else looked good.

Feb 11: Tank looks good
Cyano is less than last week
elegance and rock anemones fed
Phosphate 0.00
nitrate 2.5ish

Here is where is starts to fall apart.
Feb. 18 Alk Minimum 7.88 Average 8.12 Maximum 8.3
calcium minimum 372 Average 402
Magnesium 1247
Salt 0.026
Ph 7.81 Average 7.9 Maximum 8.01
Temp always between 78F and 79F
Phosphates 0.02 with Hanna checker
Nitrates 2.5

The usual skimmer clean and temp and salinity of water change water was checked and a 20% water change was done.

On the morning of February 19 my daughter messaged me that she thought I had a fish that wasn't doing well. It was a chrome that was hanging out in the corner of the aquarium swimming straight up and down.. She said all my fish were "acting weird and not swimming around like crazy when I usually feed them."

5 days later on Feb 24 she removed a dead cardinal fish and saw a dead anthias stuck in the rock work. We also noted that there were 5 other fish missing.
On February 25 my fish guy removed two rotting bodies of anthias from the work work. He did an ammonia test but as luck would have it my ammonia kit was expired. He felt he read a trace of ammonia with an expired salifert kit. We felt maybe a big turbo snail died and perhaps caused an ammonia spike and killed the anthias that were sensitive. And if my clean up crew were short on numbers that why the bodies didn't get eaten. This was just a guess. He did a water change with what water I had there.
On the morning of Feb 26 all the fish were either dead or struggling to breath on the bottom of the tank. My daughter removed the dead fish. I contacted my cousin who went up the net day with salt water from the LFS and removed more dead fish and about 20 big snails. He informed me there were dead bristle worms as well. Ammonia was now 0.5 with a new salifert test kit and nitrite was 0.05.
On February 27th my fish guy did a larger than usual water change with water from his store. At some point I had him unplug the household water softener. We were not sure how to bypass it.
On February 29 my sailfin tang and my yellow tang died. Foxface and 1 clown was left. Both these fish were not expected to live by my daughter as they were in bad shape.
On March 2 the fox face was recovering and ate nori and some frozen. The clown was starting to show interest in food.
March 3, Phosphate 0.02. Ammonia 0.20 before water change with water from LFS
Both fish continued to recover and were eating well over the next week.
On March 10 a water change was done with water made from my house and my aquavitro salinity salt.
The next morning my fox face and clown fish were both dead and dead bristle worms were swirling in the current.
We have since found how to bypass the water softener.

Over the course of those two weeks my parameters did not stray far from what I stated above. Believe me I checked my apex constantly during the day. And watched this all take place from a webcam while feeling totally helpless and frustrated.

I found out that at the end of December my husband had bought the wrong salt for the water softener. I emailed the company and was told that they use a bit of surfactant in their salt that should get flushed out of the water softener when it regenerates. My guess, and this is just a guess, is that it somehow found its way into my water and killed the entire clean up crew and sensitive fish first which lead to an ammonia spike which complicated things further. And each water change after that finished off the already sick fish. Again I have no proof.

I arrived home just before the end of March. I have removed all the dead things I can find in my tank and have moved rock work around to do so. I have vacuumed my sand and moved rock to get behind it. I have changed out 200 gallons of water with Instant Ocean, because nothing has ruled out the salinity salt at this point. I filled a small 5 gal aquarium with water made with my well water through RODI with instant ocean. I put in a couple of test snails and they lived for 2 day, after which I put them in my DT. They died.

What is strange is that my leathers have done wonderfully through all this and have even grown. I have also managed to salve two small pieces of Florida Ricordia.

Sooooooo my question is do I tear this tank down completely and throw away all the rock, drain it and start over again. I have two years of being patient waiting for this tank to mature. Or do I try siphoning out all the sand and doing more water changes and using sacrificial snails as my guide?

Oh ya, a water sample was sent shortly after the fish started dying to MarinLabs for ICP testing. The only pollutant that was noted was Al at 0.0123 mg/l. All other parameters were within range.

I have accepted the loss of life and the loss of $$. But what I am struggling with is where to go from here.

WHAT WOULD YOU ALL DO??
 

Greg Goby

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2019
Messages
90
Reaction score
142
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am sorry that you are going through this, especially with family and professionals trying so hard to save it. It sounds like you have a strong attention for detail and have thoroughly thought through the potential problems. I feel like your guess is probably accurate as the water was clearly contaminated with something. When you wrote that the bristle worms were floating around too it seemed to be the most obvious answer.

Not being around while all this was happening is tough. It is relatively easy for you to go through your mental routine to help identify where something went wrong, but with three other people with their hands in the tank it can be hard to say. My tank has been running for slightly less time than yours, but if it was me I would drain the tank completely, clean thoroughly with vinegar, and start from scratch past that. I realize for your system this would be a monumental amount of work. I personally would want to eliminate the possibility of this happening ever again, the investment in rock and new sand is minimal when compared to a total livestock loss. Best of luck, I can only imagine how upsetting this is.
 

Mikeltee

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
1,563
Reaction score
1,257
Location
Fishers, IN
Rating - 50%
1   1   0
This is terrible! I hope for the best for you. I personally would bleach the rock, and start over. I would attach that RODI before the water softener and go for a 7 stage just to have a little more peace that this will not happen again. If you decide to roll with what you got, I would still bypass that softener! The more rock you have the better your chances are to keep everything balanced even when a curve ball is thrown in the mix. I understand that that may not work with with your idea of aquascaping though. It might give you a chance to go with a mix reef this time around. Corals are beautiful! I'd rather go all coral than all fish but that's me...
 

DonTavo27

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
1,666
Reaction score
6,915
Location
Thousand Oaks CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I would start with checking all pumps and anything magnetic or metal in your system for Rust.
I was in a similar situation back in 2012, everything checked out, but It wasn’t until I tore my tank down, that I discovered a cracked and rusted impeller. Everything in my tank was dying just like it was in yours.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
View Badges
Joined
Dec 9, 2014
Messages
30,220
Reaction score
24,063
Location
tejas
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Keep all rocks and corals but redo as fallow + quarantine. I think that fish disease started the loss cascade. All that live rock can handle a rotting snail
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
View Badges
Joined
Dec 9, 2014
Messages
30,220
Reaction score
24,063
Location
tejas
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Imagine all the things we keep adding perpetually for large tanks, the stocking never ends. If one single item came from a non fallow system, your disease protocol was broken by one snail in that way.

the way the LFS prepped fish wont matter, its how you handle fallow when you added four hundred items after they prepped fish, so tricky if I had a large tank it almost makes me not want fish.
 
Last edited:

WallyB

REEF Techno-Geek
View Badges
Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Messages
3,136
Reaction score
8,111
Location
GTA Toronto, CANADA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I would start with checking all pumps and anything magnetic or metal in your system for Rust.
I was in a similar situation back in 2012, everything checked out, but It wasn’t until I tore my tank down, that I discovered a cracked and rusted impeller. Everything in my tank was dying just like it was in yours.
Sorry to hear your misfortune.
I've had two crashes in 25 years, once all Corals (due to Copper Contamination from a Product), and all Fish Died from (Velvet).
I know the feeling, yet once the worst is over, starting over is something you can look forward to.
As you state, you need to figure out how to move forward.

To the post above about rusting pumps, exposed wires, metals, etc.
Doesn't hurt to check your equipment over but If that was primary cause your ICP test would have picked up Heavy Metals.
If it was copper at such levels to hurt/kill fish, no inverts would have survive at all (ie died first, and quickly)

From my past experience on both of my situations (Heavy Metal and Disease crash), is I removed all remaining life in tank, and run the system (rocks only, and dark) for about 2 (min)-3 months(max), doing Light water changes (no-Softner-water), Carbon-Changes, and let things flush/breakdown/filter thru.

Then start up slowly, testing things out with a Hardy fish (re-cycle tank), a few inverts, and make incremental steps as you see results.

I don't know if this had any value but I did vinegar dosing ramp up and then ramped down during the Fallow period, to establish bacteria in the tank. The only positive that came out of that was the Slime, Cyano and Algae problem I had in prior setup, NEVER CAME BACK (knock on wood, 10 year have gone by).

That 90 Gallon Tank with the two Crashes has become kind of bullet proof. I do nothing (except two part dosing), simple rubbermaid tub sump, barely any maintenance, and the large quantity of rocks and establish corals keep the tank somehow on auto-pilot. My new tank 2 year old I watch daily, hourly and it's high tech everything and a nightmare to keep Happy/Stable for SPS.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
CarolynZ

CarolynZ

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Messages
28
Reaction score
43
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thank you everyone so far for your advice. My worry about keeping my rock is that, if surfactant caused this, would it not continue to leach out for years to come causing me to lose sensitive fish and coral down the road. Would bleaching the rock remove surfactant? I have some unique pieces of rock that I would love to keep but not at the risk of losing livestock for years to come. If I run my system rocks-only in the dark for 3 month as WallyB suggested, will that remove contaminants in my rock? I was going to leave it fallow anyway for as long as it takes.

I have made plans for a quarantine tank to quarantine new fish, but was going to add my cleanup crew to my tank and start my fallow period after the last crew member was added. That was before I found that test snails were not going to live at this time.

This was not disease. During a telephone conversation with my LFS guy when this started he told me that it is not disease. He said one thing I had was healthy fish. He said it always brought a smile to his face when he did my tank because of my fish.

The fact that test snails died within 24 hours after being placed in my tank after cleaning and 200 gal water change over the course of two weeks tells me that the contaminant is still in there. Not unless I am misreading the salifert ammonia test which looks pretty white to me. I tested Saturday and ammonia was 0 (to my eyes), Nitrite 0, Phosphate 0.00 and nitrate 5.

I think I am swaying towards Greg Goby's advise of draining the tank, cleaning it and starting over with new rock and sand even though it kills me to throw away all the rock I have collected for 3 years. There are copepods still alive. I check every night.

My plans for a BTA is now another year or two down the road.

I will inspect my equipment for sure.
I have already added onto my RODI unit. Everything was replaced in the unit including the RO membrane before the last water change that killed my last two fish.

I have found a place to purchase water softener salt that is pure ocean salt that was created through sun evaporation. But leaving the unit after the softener it not written in stone, so I could change it after more research. Again this also could have been caused by my new bucket of reef salt being contaminated. I am temped to make a batch in my 5 gal tank and do a snail test, but I don't want to kill anymore sea creatures and it doesn't change anything. Maybe some day I will test it.

Will my leathers be ok in my quarantine tank filled with freshly made salt water? I know they are just leathers but they are actually a couple of nice pieces. Plus its' all I have left. The tank won't be cycled. If I use my current tank water, I'd be afraid of contaminating my new quarantine tank with something I can't get rid of.
 
OP
OP
CarolynZ

CarolynZ

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Messages
28
Reaction score
43
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Most of my rock was new Carib Sea rock purchased in 2018. The rest of my rock came our of my 90 gal that ran for 1 year beforehand.
 
OP
OP
CarolynZ

CarolynZ

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Messages
28
Reaction score
43
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Also my zoas and elegance didn't die immediately like the inverts and fish. I think the ammonia from all the death took them out in the end.
 
OP
OP
CarolynZ

CarolynZ

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Messages
28
Reaction score
43
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
And we tested the water for copper, both in my tank and my RODI water. Both were 0
 

vetteguy53081

Well known Member and monster tank lover
View Badges
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
Messages
96,707
Reaction score
215,505
Location
Wisconsin -
Rating - 100%
15   0   0
Devastation is Mildly putting it.
May I say " Now is a Good time to get a Rubbermaid tub, make it a temporary tank/house for remaining specimens" and repack the tank. Start with fresh salt and a thorough siphoning. Clean and inspect filters, heaters, etc. Run tank a couple of days utilizing good carbon and then add rock when tank remains clear along with Bacteria such as " One and Only by Dr Tims" and then a couple days later add the livestock from tub. Obviously, add nothing else and monitor tank 2-3X per week.
So sorry this happened and it is ironic that in my local club, at least 4 people had tank system crashes in the last 3-4 weeks.
 

Dolelo96

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 29, 2014
Messages
3,448
Reaction score
21,720
Location
Jacksonville
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I’m so sorry for your loss. I have a water softener too. LfS said to run the ro/di before the softener. I got a water quality report for out city water, and ended up with a 6 stage ro/di unit. I have an extension and connect it to my outside garden house.
Glad your here. You’ll definitely get the guidance you need. Good luck!
 

Dave Cureton

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Messages
547
Reaction score
838
Location
Grass Valley
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Sorry for your loss. I recommended ditching the rock as it could be full of toxins that could leach indefinitely. Could your LFS hold on to the leathers for you?
 

WallyB

REEF Techno-Geek
View Badges
Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Messages
3,136
Reaction score
8,111
Location
GTA Toronto, CANADA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thank you everyone so far for your advice. My worry about keeping my rock is that, if surfactant caused this, would it not continue to leach out for years to come causing me to lose sensitive fish and coral down the road. Would bleaching the rock remove surfactant? I have some unique pieces of rock that I would love to keep but not at the risk of losing livestock for years to come. If I run my system rocks-only in the dark for 3 month as WallyB suggested, will that remove contaminants in my rock? I was going to leave it fallow anyway for as long as it takes.

I have made plans for a quarantine tank to quarantine new fish, but was going to add my cleanup crew to my tank and start my fallow period after the last crew member was added. That was before I found that test snails were not going to live at this time.

This was not disease. During a telephone conversation with my LFS guy when this started he told me that it is not disease. He said one thing I had was healthy fish. He said it always brought a smile to his face when he did my tank because of my fish.

The fact that test snails died within 24 hours after being placed in my tank after cleaning and 200 gal water change over the course of two weeks tells me that the contaminant is still in there. Not unless I am misreading the salifert ammonia test which looks pretty white to me. I tested Saturday and ammonia was 0 (to my eyes), Nitrite 0, Phosphate 0.00 and nitrate 5.

I think I am swaying towards Greg Goby's advise of draining the tank, cleaning it and starting over with new rock and sand even though it kills me to throw away all the rock I have collected for 3 years. There are copepods still alive. I check every night.

My plans for a BTA is now another year or two down the road.

I will inspect my equipment for sure.
I have already added onto my RODI unit. Everything was replaced in the unit including the RO membrane before the last water change that killed my last two fish.

I have found a place to purchase water softener salt that is pure ocean salt that was created through sun evaporation. But leaving the unit after the softener it not written in stone, so I could change it after more research. Again this also could have been caused by my new bucket of reef salt being contaminated. I am temped to make a batch in my 5 gal tank and do a snail test, but I don't want to kill anymore sea creatures and it doesn't change anything. Maybe some day I will test it.

Will my leathers be ok in my quarantine tank filled with freshly made salt water? I know they are just leathers but they are actually a couple of nice pieces. Plus its' all I have left. The tank won't be cycled. If I use my current tank water, I'd be afraid of contaminating my new quarantine tank with something I can't get rid of.
I hear you. Not knowing your root cause is tough. Keep looking for a cause with whatever means are possible.

I have no idea how to deal with sufficants, from what I read sufficants rinse well. That's their purpose.
Isn't the sufficant (in water softner) that was in your system made for human consumption?

Here is something I tried when I was worried about Copper Still stuck in my Pile of Rocks.

Might help you lessen the worry about keeping rocks.

Take out one large rock or a few that fit into a bucket. Fill it with new Water.
Let rock soak it for a while, to run the leach test on a small scale.
Add a senstive invert at some point to that water.
I know you don't want to kill creatures. Certainly not fish.
Killing a Small snail to save many other creatures isn't too bad (It may live, or just slowly fade [fall alseep]). How many snails get horribly killed by hermits.

I did the same when I had a suspicion about a cracked Chineese Gyre. Place it in small amount of new salt water ,and after a few days tested the water. It showed copper. I threw out the pump.

Was it your salt? You said new bucket. Look up any recalls from Manufacterer.
Guess what wiped out my Tank. It was Kent Carbon. Brand new pail.
I used it one night. Next morning my tank was melting corals.
2020-04-08_KentCarbonCopper.jpg

I didn't know what was the contaminant. So I wanted to clean up the systems. And I added more CARBON.
That finished off my tank even more. Clam had one last cough, and then vapourized.
I kept doing all kind of things going insane for weeks.
Then Few weeks later, at Fish Store I see a Sign. Kent Carbon Recall. Had Copper in it. When they mined the coal, they hit a copper vein. Quality control didn't pick it up.
After I gave Kent the Serial # of my carbon.....Kent took take of me, but the journey was a nighmare.

Believe it or not. THe leather Survived, so did the trumpets, and Nothing but skeleton left Frogspawn.
WISH THE FRIGGIN GREEN Palys got wiped out for good, but they are still around invading the tank.

All those Copper Contaminated rocks are still with me. No issues, and people say copper sticks around a long time.

Not months, but couple years for corals to fully make it back.
Same original Trumpets below. Same Frogspawn (actually pruned and sold a few times)
The leather eventually outgrew the tank and I sold it.
2020-04-08_KitchenAfterCopper.jpg


What I'm saying. Is keep the rocks if you like them. If it's a lot of rock like I had.
I'm glad I did, since I collected special pieces over many years like you did.

Leathers are like shoe leather. Tough. Yours will do fine in same salinity water. Just add a heater, airstone.

The decision to keep the rocks is something you have to get feedback more from other experts.
I wondered for a long while if it was the right decision for me.
100% peace of mind would obviously be to not keep rocks. Tough trade off.
Maybe keep the rocks and scrap the sand. Or really rinse sand (easier then rocks). Sand is a easy replace, not rocks.

All the best. I will tag along and hope the best for you.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top