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vetteguy53081

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Thank you all for your guidance and advice @jamesb07 @Tamberav @vetteguy53081 @Jay Hemdal

Update on my situation: So I decided to house all of the fishes in a HT, treat them, and leave the tank fallow. It looks like all of them are now showing symptoms of ich. I am devastated by this but gotta move on and do what’s best. My blue tang seems to be doing the worse as of now. Currently only the blue tang and the royal dotty is in the HT as I did not manage to catch the others in the DT but I will try again tomorrow night. Also, I ordered a fine mesh net cover to keep off those pesky light bugs. In the meantime, I keep a close eye on the tank at night and schedule the lights to turn off earlier (Those light bugs seem to come out at night).

Question:
1) How long should I quarantine the fish and leave my tank fallow. Would 1 month be sufficient to kill off the ich?
2) Do I need to dose anything to my DT while it’s fallow to kill off the free swimming ich?
3) Will a fine mesh net cover interfere with oxygen, nitrogen cycle etc.?
Some words look very familiar here and someone trying to be a medic. Anyway, , , , Leave fallow going for 6-8 weeks to allow the parasites to die off without a host fish. At week 4 you can do a light siphoning in the fallow to remove any dead parasites although an option. As for treatment, treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
 

Dread Pirate Dave

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Some words look very familiar here and someone trying to be a medic. Anyway, , , , Leave fallow going for 6-8 weeks to allow the parasites to die off without a host fish. At week 4 you can do a light siphoning in the fallow to remove any dead parasites although an option. As for treatment, treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
Sorry - not trying to be a medic! I should have quoted you instead. (just figured they'd read up) :)

Edit note: tried to edit earlier post but time limit has passed.
 

Tamberav

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45 days minimum at 81 degrees. The higher temp will speed up the lifrcycle of the Ich. Make sure not not cross contaminate!
 
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silenthuntertm

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Some words look very familiar here and someone trying to be a medic. Anyway, , , , Leave fallow going for 6-8 weeks to allow the parasites to die off without a host fish. At week 4 you can do a light siphoning in the fallow to remove any dead parasites although an option. As for treatment, treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
Got it. I will follow your steps closely. I am using ionic copper though, so I should go for 0.15 - 0.2 right? I don’t have any tests for copper so I’m just following the dosing guide. This is what I did to QT my fishes before.

45 days minimum at 81 degrees. The higher temp will speed up the lifrcycle of the Ich. Make sure not not cross contaminate!
Is it better to speed up the lifecycle? My DT is always at a stable 80-81 using a chiller. QT can reach up to 86 last time i checked
 

vetteguy53081

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Sorry - not trying to be a medic! I should have quoted you instead. (just figured they'd read up) :)

Got it. I will follow your steps closely. I am using ionic copper though, so I should go for 0.15 - 0.2 right? I don’t have any tests for copper so I’m just following the dosing guide. This is what I did to QT my fishes before.


Is it better to speed up the lifecycle? My DT is always at a stable 80-81 using a chiller. QT can reach up to 86 last time i checked
Got it. I will follow your steps closely. I am using ionic copper though, so I should go for 0.15 - 0.2 right? I don’t have any tests for copper so I’m just following the dosing guide. This is what I did to QT my fishes before.


Is it better to speed up the lifecycle? My DT is always at a stable 80-81 using a chiller. QT can reach up to 86 last time i checked
Ionic maximum is .5 and a copper test kit is imperative as the ionic version (cupramine) is more potent. The 81 degrees is an old step and pertained to velvet versus copper
 

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Potentially worth mentioning: it's possible for fish pathogens to travel in tiny droplets of water between tanks, from the normal actions of filters and especially of airstones. I've had this happen myself, and it got me velvet reinfecting my tank after a fallow period had passed. I'm told best practice is to put QT and DT at least 10 feet apart.
 
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silenthuntertm

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Update: Sadly, lost my blue tang and royal dotty. They wouldnt eat in the HT. The others are doing well and white spots are fully gone on them. Keeping the copper level at around 1.8 - 2.5.
 
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silenthuntertm

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Potentially worth mentioning: it's possible for fish pathogens to travel in tiny droplets of water between tanks, from the normal actions of filters and especially of airstones. I've had this happen myself, and it got me velvet reinfecting my tank after a fallow period had passed. I'm told best practice is to put QT and DT at least 10 feet apart.
Thanks for the heads up!
 
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