Im hoping he can handle it but I’m not dosing anything it’ll just be water changes and siphoningHonestly I would try to return the anemone if you can, I don’t think he’ll be able to bear instability too well and it might die
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Im hoping he can handle it but I’m not dosing anything it’ll just be water changes and siphoningHonestly I would try to return the anemone if you can, I don’t think he’ll be able to bear instability too well and it might die
I’d say upwards of 3 weeks.Okay I’ll do the siphoning with water changes and dosing microbacter 7 and stay consistent with that and also add the uv sterilizer and I’m hoping that will get rid of it all how long do you think it’ll take for it all to go away
DisagreeDisappearing at night does not distinguish if dino as diatoms and cyano, all photosynthetic will disappear at night. Focus on the cells and not raising nutrients at this time as automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more.
You definitely need to test nutrients. "Around there" is not knowing at all. You may be surprised. What test kits? That may play a roll also.I use rodi water for my top off and I haven’t read parameters lately but nitrates always stay around 6 and alk is always at 9.0 ppm after a water change so it’s around there
A three day blackout will still be okay for the nem if it's healthy.As for lights out and anemone, its bad timing. Anemone needs light as it will shrivel up in the dark
You dipped the whole rock in peroxide? Next time a squirt bottle will do.I took one big rock out completely and I took a small one out and peroxide dipped the whole thing and killed all the algae and put it back in later on and it’s all good man I’ve been dealing with these algae problems for almost a. Year
The first rule with dinos, NO water changes. Build up nutrients for competition.Number one is siphoning them out using water changes,
Agreed if going to water column.number two is using the UV sterilizer,
Agreednumber 3 is adding some bacteria like micro bacter 7,
Depending on the type of dinos. Each has it's own set of rules.and number 4 which is pretty unheard of is adding in silicates to induce a diatom bloom.
Correct.If it doesn’t, the UV sterilizer won’t work properly.
Not over night. It could take weeks to months. You have to stay on top of it consistently.Okay I’ll do the siphoning with water changes and dosing microbacter 7 and stay consistent with that and also add the uv sterilizer and I’m hoping that will get rid of it all how long do you think it’ll take for it all to go away
Would doing water changes to manually remove them and dosing nutrients after water changes help? I always heard that it's best to manually remove as many as you can.Disagree
Many people get dinos because of zero nutrients. Many clear up dinos by raising nutrients.
Because of the bubbles and no mat, I'm leaning to dinos. If it does clear at night, more reason to get a uv light. You only need to run it at night op.
You definitely need to test nutrients. "Around there" is not knowing at all. You may be surprised. What test kits? That may play a roll also.
A three day blackout will still be okay for the nem if it's healthy.
You dipped the whole rock in peroxide? Next time a squirt bottle will do.
Depending on how long it was soaking, bacteria lies deep in the rock, it may be okay.
The first rule with dinos, NO water changes. Build up nutrients for competition.
Agreed if going to water column.
Agreed
Depending on the type of dinos. Each has it's own set of rules.
Correct.
Not over night. It could take weeks to months. You have to stay on top of it consistently.
I would use a turkey baster and remove minimum amount of water. Some use a filter on a pump so the water goes back in.Would doing water changes to manually remove them and dosing nutrients after water changes help? I always heard that it's best to manually remove as many as you can.
It will reduce but not remove completelyWould doing water changes to manually remove them and dosing nutrients after water changes help? I always heard that it's best to manually remove as many as you can.
And why is it they got to zero? They have been consumed and feeding the cells. I attended a long seminar where din was discussed by SanJay and his videos made this clear and then also made senseDisagree
Many people get dinos because of zero nutrients. Many clear up dinos by raising nutrients.
Because of the bubbles and no mat, I'm leaning to dinos. If it does clear at night, more reason to get a uv light. You only need to run it at night op.
You definitely need to test nutrients. "Around there" is not knowing at all. You may be surprised. What test kits? That may play a roll also.
A three day blackout will still be okay for the nem if it's healthy.
You dipped the whole rock in peroxide? Next time a squirt bottle will do.
Depending on how long it was soaking, bacteria lies deep in the rock, it may be okay.
The first rule with dinos, NO water changes. Build up nutrients for competition.
Agreed if going to water column.
Agreed
Depending on the type of dinos. Each has it's own set of rules.
Correct.
Not over night. It could take weeks to months. You have to stay on top of it consistently.
Unfortunately the UV sterilizer won't work if they arent coming up and off of the sandbed at night. The greenish tint to it kinda make it look like an algae of some kind, I'm second guessing if it's dinos. If it is dinos, you have the type that doesn't free float, which is a bit tougher than the free floating ones. Could you take a close pic of them in full white light by chance?That’s what it looked like at “nighttime” which was this morning okay so here’s the plan keep feeding, more? Everyday and no water changes and siphon out the Dino’s daily and spray with turkey baster and dose microbacter 7 and run the uv? And what do I do with the water that gets taken out with the siphon?
Silicates as in the intentional diatoms right?Dino's for sure. All the blackouts, chemicals, and everything else didn't work on mine i battled it for over a year and it destroyed everything in my tank minus one clown. Best way to go about it is to identify what type of Dino's it is then find that fix. Mine was dosing silicates.
How can I get someone to identify it cause I’m not trying to let it kill everythingDino's for sure. All the blackouts, chemicals, and everything else didn't work on mine i battled it for over a year and it destroyed everything in my tank minus one clown. Best way to go about it is to identify what type of Dino's it is then find that fix. Mine was dosing silicates.
What are silicatesSilicates as in the intentional diatoms right?
What are silicates
Get a microscope and snap video or at least a couple pics.How can I get someone to identify it cause I’m not trying to let it kill everything
Many, many reasons why they could have gone to zero.And why is it they got to zero? They have been consumed and feeding the cells. I attended a long seminar where din was discussed by SanJay and his videos made this clear and then also made sense
How can I take a sample and see it under a microscope?I just remembered,
You can take a sample and shake with water to break it up. Come back in a few minutes and see if the slime reformed Dinos.
I'll look for a thread. I'll be back.
I.D. guide In the meantime.
Dinoflagellate Identification Guide
I've had this laying around for a while. Had some recent interest, so I tweaked it a bit and am posting it. Not really about cures just ID pictures, videos, and a few short facts. Hope it can be helpful.www.reef2reef.com
1st Post, coffee filtering.
A Dinoflagellate Treatment Guide
As the title suggests, this is intended as a short guide on what to do when you suspect dinoflagellates are trying to overtake your system. It is an attempt to boil down the protocols discussed across 11,000 posts in this "Are you Tired" thread along with thousands of other dino threads. I did...www.reef2reef.com