Drip Acclimation/Dead Royal Gramma

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C4ctus99

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An isolation chamber in the sump doesn’t accomplish what QT is best for. The two main points are to avoid introducing parasites like ich and velvet and being able to treat with medications that will or can harm the inverts and corals such as copper. Neither of these can be done in the sump.
That being said, unless you are buying large fish, a 10 gallon with a hang on back filter and a heater is all you need with some biological media that you can seed in your main tank, and use to establish your qt. Doesn’t have to run all the time. Set it up when you plan to get a fish, or can be set up when you get home with a spur of the moment purchase if you plan ahead.
I meant making a small chamber in my sump completely sealed off from the rest of the system and throw a spare HOB on it
 

HankstankXXL750

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I meant making a small chamber in my sump completely sealed off from the rest of the system and throw a spare HOB on it
If you read humblefish on ich, it can be airborne for up to 10 feet. Sounds like a great idea, but if you have the room, a 10 gallon set up is cheap.
 

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Both netting and acclimation are stressors
You did not mention floating bag to adjust temperature but that’s first step. While I’m not a fan of drip method, it is a choice you make
During drip you want to align the salinity in the bucket with that of the tank and keep checking until you match that of the tank
Osmotic shock May have occurred but hard to determine with fish now perished
What’s your go to method for acclimation when say lfs is at 1.019 and I run around 1.025?
 

vetteguy53081

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What’s your go to method for acclimation when say lfs is at 1.019 and I run around 1.025?
My acclimation method (not the only one out there):
I generally:
Float for 20-30 minutes
Transfer fish and water into a clean bucket
Then . . . .
Measure the Ph, salinity and temperature of the bag water. If you can, make up some water in a container that has exactly the same measurements as the bag readings and move the fish right over, then you can add a cup of tank water to bucket every 15 mins (4-6 times -almost 1- 1.5 hours)
Then check salinity in bucket and compare to tank. If no match or very close +/- 1 , add a cup of water every few mins until youve reached salinity and trap fish in same cup and pour off water and release into display. Release under LOW light before lights out.
 

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My acclimation method (not the only one out there):
I generally:
Float for 20-30 minutes
Transfer fish and water into a clean bucket
Then . . . .
Measure the Ph, salinity and temperature of the bag water. If you can, make up some water in a container that has exactly the same measurements as the bag readings and move the fish right over, then you can add a cup of tank water to bucket every 15 mins (4-6 times -almost 1- 1.5 hours)
Then check salinity in bucket and compare to tank. If no match or very close +/- 1 , add a cup of water every few mins until youve reached salinity and trap fish in same cup and pour off water and release into display. Release under LOW light before lights out.
This is a great method, but my understanding is that increasing salinity more than one point a day can be bad? I know it works as I have also done this in the past. Now I have a Qt system at 1.019 that I can put them in (my understanding is that if it is lower it is safer) then I raise them .01 a day until I reach 1.026 after I have treated them before moving to display tank. This may not be an option for everyone, and I agree with how vetteguy does it. I use a five gallon bucket with battery air stone and heater so I can do it over several hours.
 

MnFish1

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Yesterday I made a bad impulse buy of a royal gramma. Bad as in I was at petco and said “what the heck” I’ve only ever purchased one other fish from there and it did fine. Anyway, long story short it is now dead. Fortunately I kept the receipt and got my money back but here’s what happened:

the store employee got the fish out by removing most of the rocks in the tank kicking up dust and debris
Store employee in transferring to bag and close bag was exceptionally rough with the fish (probably shoulda changed my mind right then but I’m too nice)
Fish road around with me for 2-3 hours before I got home and started acclimating
temp acclimation by floating 15-20 minutes
Started slow drip into bucket by using air hose to siphon water with a nozzle on the end to control drip
Poured fish and water out of bag and into bucket
Let slowly fill for 30-45 minutes
Netted fish and put in tank

After a minute of hiding he swam around for a minute then decided to hide in the corner. I have a picture and was concerned then because it wasn’t really swimming around much and just stayed in the corner not moving except to turn around occasionally until I went to bed. When I got up this morning he had moved to the other side of the tank and while still staying more out of sight than not, was s inning and seemed okay. Then when I got home about 30 minutes ago he was dead. Had been alive just a couple hours before according to my family.

just trying to see if I did something wrong or got a bad fish or something else I didn’t think about

yes, I know I’m supposed to quarrantine and buying from petco was not my greatest decision ever.

I’ll get the tank parameters later when I get back home, but salinity is around 1.024-1.025 and the tank has 2 clowns, large hermit crab, emerald crab, serpent star, trochus snail, and a BTA. The store employee said their salinity was at 1.027-1.028

this is long so all the pics and video I have of the fish to follow:
Thanks for the detailed response. MY GUESS - is that the salinity in the tank from Petco was no where near 1.028. Thus it was a shock from that. Disease should not come on so quickly
 

MnFish1

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BTW - I answered before reading the other posts - which is what I do sometimes. I think it's acclimation - not disease. FWIW - perhaps it should be posted in the forum as a sticky @Jay Hemdal about matching parameters. Usually a drip method - if your shop is using. normal methods - should not be needed unless it's like - 12 hours away. That said - if the Store keeps the specific gravity at 1.019 - its a different story
 

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Sorry to hear of your loss. On a side note, I'd work on upgrading your light before worrying about a sump. An aqueon light won't cut it for a bubble tip anemone.
 
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C4ctus99

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Sorry to hear of your loss. On a side note, I'd work on upgrading your light before worrying about a sump. An aqueon light won't cut it for a bubble tip anemone.
I already got a T5 from someone local. The dimensions are too big for my tank so I’m going to modify it either today or tomorrow hopefully
 
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C4ctus99

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Thanks for the detailed response. MY GUESS - is that the salinity in the tank from Petco was no where near 1.028. Thus it was a shock from that. Disease should not come on so quickly
That’s about where I’ve ended up at too, thanks for the input. Definitely double checking parameters going forward
 

Jay Hemdal

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BTW - I answered before reading the other posts - which is what I do sometimes. I think it's acclimation - not disease. FWIW - perhaps it should be posted in the forum as a sticky @Jay Hemdal about matching parameters. Usually a drip method - if your shop is using. normal methods - should not be needed unless it's like - 12 hours away. That said - if the Store keeps the specific gravity at 1.019 - its a different story
I did post a full article on acclimation:
I was torn between posting as an article versus as a disease sticky. My thought was it would get more readership as an article.

Jay
 

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Maybe it did like the decor of your tank
 

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C4ctus99

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Good article, good things to know about timing and techniques
I did post a full article on acclimation:
I was torn between posting as an article versus as a disease sticky. My thought was it would get more readership as an article.

Jay
 

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