Blocking alone is not sufficient and will not add any significant strength to the system. If it were my house, I would sister complete lengths of joists under the tank or I would reevaluate my location.
Do I Need Floor Supporting?!?
- Thread starter Striike
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Do you guys see any issues with this structure I built for a 130 gallon? It will be sitting perpendicular across all the joists above (which are 40 inches long, 4x4s and 2x6s). Sump will be plumbed down (not resting on top of floor/not with tank). Tank stand/footprint will be approx 64 inches x 27 inches.
A 130g spanning across multiple joists that are only 40" long will be fine. Those additional 2x6 that you added with huge notches in the middle are doing nothing. You cannot notch joists like that. In addition, whoever originally installed that conduit and notched the bottom of those existing joists seriously reduced the capacity of those joists and put the notch right in the middle of the span. You can only notch joists at their ends and conduit should have been run through a small hole drilled in the mid height of the joist.
All that being said, you should still be fine.
All that being said, you should still be fine.
Good to know on all points - thank you! Didn't know that about notches... The more you know.
Also - house is 150+ years old so no clue when that occurred.
@Charlie the Reefer I would be very hesitant to put a 130gl glass tank perpendicular (or parallel) under those notched joist.
I would add a couple pyramid cinder blocks under them. 4x4 across the 2 joist for support and 4x4 vertically to each cinder block (one set per side, half way between notch and end of tank). 4 sets would be overkill (2 at ends and 2 near notches) but would let me sleep well!
I agree, the added 2x6 does nothing but add unwanted weight to current weakened joists.
I would add a couple pyramid cinder blocks under them. 4x4 across the 2 joist for support and 4x4 vertically to each cinder block (one set per side, half way between notch and end of tank). 4 sets would be overkill (2 at ends and 2 near notches) but would let me sleep well!
I agree, the added 2x6 does nothing but add unwanted weight to current weakened joists.
Hey thanks I really appreciate the info. Could you explain what you mean by the cinder blocks...? I tried googling but I don't understand what you mean - maybe an example of how this was done for someone else?
Thanks again...
Here’s a birdseye picture of the floor joist that will run parallel to the tank.
2nd pic is the dual perpendicular concrete with 4x4’s supporting each end of the tank. Also, there are pyramid cinder blocks in the middle. All this holds the load of one I-Beam. To spread the tank weight, I blocked 2x8’s across floor rafters so if the main I-Beam under the tank starts to bow/move/bend, the pressure is sustained by the following I-Beam. I went about 7 I-Beams worth of blocking. Then I blocked to the wall and added more structural 2x4’s so the center tank I-Beam has support from every direction.
3rd pic is just showing the tank running parallel to the floor joist.
Last pic (couldn’t edit to have as 3rd pic) is how I blocked the I-Beams. By adding a thick (2x8) piece of wood, it is not holding all floor joist together, creating a more solid bond. Reducing the load of the tanks I-Beam.
Hope this helps visually.
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I'm in the middle of a new build and came across this thread. I read through the entire thread and found a lot of good information. However, my home has open web truss joists and not the 2x10 or I-beams construction as covered in the thread
The open web truss joists are 18" tall and spaced about 19.5" OC. The span where the tank is placed spans about 15' to a huge wood beam in the downstairs. Exterior walls are formed and filled concrete.
The tank is a reefer peninsula 500. I'm over estimating total weight to be around 2000#. The tank runs parallel on two joist and butted to the exterior wall.
As my structure is not typical of what has been discussed so far in this thread and my tank size is in that threshold of caution. I am now worried about my build since it is in a peninsula layout running parallel with the joists. Can I get your honest evaluation? Let me know if there is any additional information you'd like to help with your evaluation.
This is what I can see in what is the unfinished mechanical room.
This is the span and placement of tank from the basement. I'm assuming the drywall screws follow the joist.
Placement of the tank on main floor. When I place the tank I used a stud finder to find the outer edges of the joists and was able to get the feet running parallel with two joists.
I have not filled the tank but have water in the weir and sump. Fortunately there would be no more live load placed directly on these two specific joists except traffic from walking by or viewing.
The open web truss joists are 18" tall and spaced about 19.5" OC. The span where the tank is placed spans about 15' to a huge wood beam in the downstairs. Exterior walls are formed and filled concrete.
The tank is a reefer peninsula 500. I'm over estimating total weight to be around 2000#. The tank runs parallel on two joist and butted to the exterior wall.
As my structure is not typical of what has been discussed so far in this thread and my tank size is in that threshold of caution. I am now worried about my build since it is in a peninsula layout running parallel with the joists. Can I get your honest evaluation? Let me know if there is any additional information you'd like to help with your evaluation.
This is what I can see in what is the unfinished mechanical room.
This is the span and placement of tank from the basement. I'm assuming the drywall screws follow the joist.
Placement of the tank on main floor. When I place the tank I used a stud finder to find the outer edges of the joists and was able to get the feet running parallel with two joists.
I have not filled the tank but have water in the weir and sump. Fortunately there would be no more live load placed directly on these two specific joists except traffic from walking by or viewing.
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Having thought through it I think I will opt to change the orientation and go with a standard tank instead of peninsula.
Looking at the IN 170EXT with the sump in another room behind the wall. Would you feel comfortable in that position.
Tried to diagram it out here.
w
ie:
3" hole in the centre of 10" joist, at least 20" from supported end is ok,
3" notch anywhere on the top or bottom = strenght of 7" joist.
Whoever cut slots in the bottom of the joists needs serious talking too and perhaps trade change!!! You never cut outer(tob or bottom) of the joist, always drill in the middle. When you cut chunk of joist like that you may as well use thinner one - load bearing capacity is of the smallest section. Cutting middle out up to 30% of height(of top of my head) has no impact on load bearing capacity.
ie:
3" hole in the centre of 10" joist, at least 20" from supported end is ok,
3" notch anywhere on the top or bottom = strenght of 7" joist.
If the walls above ground level are conrete or brick/block I would opt for hanging stand.
Imagine 2-3 triangular steel frames bolted to conrete wall. Using through bolt and nut or resin anchors at the top.
Sump access might be a bit...unorthodox but i can't see why it wouldn't work even for original(futher into the room) orientation.
I hung a 500l 4ft tank once on a spruce 1"x2" on a brick wall, long tank edge followed the wall. Done it as floors were sagging under a normal wardrobe. it lasted 5- or years until I moved.
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