Dinosaur to Phoenix, a new 22G Long mini build

[theatrus]

Current design snapshot:

Hi!

I've been staring at this for far too long

Its a poorly neglected planted tank - it overgrows to the point where its just green against the glass, and then I go do a horrific pruning job ripping out a metric ton of java ferns. The above tank state is just after ripping out a bunch of stuff, the roots don't normally show The stand matches absolutely nothing in the house, and its a particle board monster that is about 25 years old and somehow hasn't crumbled into a heap of dust. The 20H tank was replaced at some point because the similarly 25 year old AGA tank rim split and started leaking.

I never was good at planted tanks, so, as I realized all I have left is one cory and some shrimp, its time to rebuild this into a proper mini (is ~20g even nano anymore?) reef.

Constraints and wishes:

1. Its in a walkway, so tank can't be more than 12" deep.
2. I have up to 50" of width to play with
3. I want something low and shallow
4. I need to automate everything - ATO, dosers, etc. Lots of DIY will be had.
5. I want to uplevel my tank hardware building in time for a replacement of my 12 year old 90gallon tank (going 130-200g there), so practice in stand and finishing work.

Nothing is purchased yet thoughts are as follows:

Tank: Mr Aqua/Aquamaxx 22g Long Low Iron Glass

Tank will need to be drilled. Overflow design TBD (though I'd love thoughts)

Stand: Framed using 8020 profile (25mm?), finished with solid wood and plywood sheets stained as appropriate.

Sump: Custom acrylic. I've built a custom sump for my 90g - no real issues doing that again at a smaller scale.

 

[Diamond1]

Nice. I'm interested in what you think about the Mr Aqua tank if that's the route you go. I have been kickin the idea of one of their 25g cubes.
I assume you'll be building automation with reef-pi and BA leds?

 

[theatrus]

First up is planning the overflow. I'd like to push all connectors to the back, including pumps, as both sides are visible easily.



I'm thinking of an inside overflow box, coupled with two 3/4" bulkheads to an external box containing the standpipe.

In this example, the gasket would actually be sitting at the coupling of the two boxes at the glass layer. The box is planned to be made from .177" laser-cut cast acrylic. External box is not yet modeled.

 

[theatrus]

Every build requires a tank

 

[Steven Garland]

Yassss !!! I cannot wait to see what you do with this !!!

 

[mch1984]

Very nice, I'm with @Diamond1. I have looked at some of their cube tanks and considered getting one and doing an anemone tank with. Looking forward to seeing the quality and how you like it.

 

[LaraLouM]

This will be really interesting to follow!

 

[Jet Sled]

Looking good yo! I have a 12 gallon long set up in the kitchen and love it!

 

[theatrus]

I'm trying settle on an equipment list for the core hardware.

Currently thinking:

Mechanical filtration:
I really like the idea of trying to provision a space for a Rollermat-like device. Still digging.

Skimmer:
Tunze Comline 9004 DC Pump

Return pump:
Sicce Syncra Silent 0.5 (x2 into the same manifold, or different returns?)

Heater:
Eheim Jaegar / whatever I have around

 

[Diamond1]

I'm trying settle on an equipment list for the core hardware.

Currently thinking:

Mechanical filtration:
I really like the idea of trying to provision a space for a Rollermat-like device. Still digging.

Skimmer:
Tunze Comline 9004 DC Pump

Return pump:
Sicce Syncra Silent 0.5 (x2 into the same manifold, or different returns?)

Heater:
Eheim Jaegar / whatever I have around

I thought about doing 2 pumps with 2 returns and then using a couple of eductors or random flow nozzels to see if I could keep power heads out of the tank but my tank is 18" deep and I don't think it would work very well. It might work with your tanks dimensions though. Something like that might be cool to try.

 

[theatrus]

I thought about doing 2 pumps with 2 returns and then using a couple of eductors or random flow nozzels to see if I could keep power heads out of the tank but my tank is 18" deep and I don't think it would work very well. It might work with your tanks dimensions though. Something like that might be cool to try.

I’m slated for at least 1 MP10 on the back wall, but since I want to keep equipment away from the sides a bit more flow distribution even if it’s not random feels like a good idea. It is 36in after all.

 

[Diamond1]

Can't go wrong with an mp10.

 

[theatrus]

Just poking round on BRS and noticed this: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/random-flow-generators-for-loc-line-vivid-creative-aquatics.html

Have 3d printer and will print PETG :think:

 

[rushbattle]

Just poking round on BRS and noticed this: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/random-flow-generators-for-loc-line-vivid-creative-aquatics.html

Have 3d printer and will print PETG :think:

I have some RFG, they work as specified but they feel like a poor value. This is a good candidate for diy!

 

[Diamond1]

Something like this?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784377

 

[theatrus]

Starting to model the stand out in Solidworks, and went on a quick trip to find options for skinning the stand in wood.

Options are either Poplar panels, which would require a lot of glue work, at a thickness of 3/4", or 1/2" or 1/4" plywood. 1/2" has a lot more rigidity to it for building doors.

Thoughts on people who have skinned tanks?

 

[Diamond1]

I skinned my stand with 1/4" Red Oak. It works just fine if your not using it for structural integrity of the stand. I made a basic 2x4 stand and skinned it after it was set up with the tank.
I just used wood glue and finishing nails. Even the doors were made from it and so far so good. No bowing or warping.

Went from this:

To this:

 

[theatrus]

Started some modeling

I'd like the facing wood to be flush with the glass, hence everything is inset by 1/4" - I'd also like to not show the end of a plywood sheet on top, though I may opt for a joined piece of board instead of plywood to have a contiguous surface on top for the glass edge.

The left side is for electrical and plugs, and the right 24" is for the sump. The top shelf is for housing containers for ATO water and two part.

I haven't modeled the facing, doors, and hinges, nor the connectors except for one.

 

[theatrus]

Still musing on doors or panels. Two main contenders:

Option 1: Frame in the left and right side by 2”, and install two doors using Soss hinges (or just exposed ones)

Option 2: No framing but do French cleat-ish magnet mounts for the top shelf and two bottom sections (primarily for visual interest)

Option 2 requires a lot less woodworking skills

 

[theatrus]

Option 1 looks something like this:

This is using 3/4" ( "1 inch" - who came up with lumber dimensions its maddening) board on the frame. The sides will likely retain plywood. The door is made of a 3/4" (.703" ) plywood sheet - likely birch. The hinges are Soss 101:

As the doors are heavy I may need to go to 3 hinges. They can fold back 180 degrees and have zero protrusion on either side of the wood, but require me to be somewhat skilled with a router.