Dinoflagellates my experience......h2o2 reefing tool!!!!!

shred5

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I would not be dosing your tank, it is only a month and half old, this is normal cycle. They look like dinos but also could be diatoms which hit a new tank some times pretty hard. You look to me meving a little fast with that many corals in a tank 1.5 months old. Also if you used dead rock slime algaes will sometimes be worse because there is nothing to compete with them. If you dose you could upset the normal cycle and have even bigger problems.
 
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Detroit_306

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Thank you.. Was mostly transferred all over from my 34 gallon cube, I think I'll give a small water change a shot and try to siphoned most out
 

AD87

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When did everyone start seeing results I'm on day; 3 and I still haven't seen any? I'm dosing 1 milligram of hydrogen peroxide for 10 gallons
 

AD87

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So after 4 days of not seeing results, I switched brands of Peroxide and bumped up my dosage to 1.5 mg to 10 gallons. I cant post pics due to me working off of my phone and I cannot use my Laptop(work related) to upload a pic of the algae. Anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks
 

melev

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It just lessened in volume each day, and by day 8 it was completely gone. 3% peroxide is what matters, not the brand name.
 

RacinRevo0818

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Gotta love it!!

My tank is about 8 months old and was having a little cyano attack for the first time so I used chemiclean and it cleared up. But seems like in the last three weeks or so I have been having this stringy brown algae. I have tired to research pictures to see if that was I have but everyones photos look so much different. As far as water parameters po4 is .08 with the hanna checker and cant see any po3 but just using api test kit which isn't the best. I perform my weekly water changes and dose the basic 3 alk,cal,mag. I was messing with Mb7 and reef biofuel and it seemed to make it worse. The tank is a RSM 250 with the stock skimmer and I think the skimmer is just to hard to effectively skim like I need to be for a ulns. I took a picture of whats in my tank and hopefully you guys can confirm dino? diatoms? It also seems as this gets worse during the day and at night you can barely see it. But its really upsetting my zoas and setosa to where its loosing color on its tips. I also syphon this stuff off and within hours its back.
Tank.jpg
 
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Tiggy

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Seems like dino's to me .. exactly wha I had/have in my tank ... I hope h2O will help for ya (didn't for me; but 2 days total darkness did help)
 

BullSnapper

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what causes this to happen?

I think i just found out hte cause of my last tank crash that no one ever found out of. I might have pictures and post it to see if it was dino.
 

sjnovakovich

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I think it is very important to dose after lights go out. Nothing degrages peroxide faster than light does, and with the intense lighting needed for reefs I'm not sure th H2O2 lasts very long once the lights come on.
 

Tiggy

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I can only talk from my own experience; but h2O2 didn't work for me ... black out the tank did ... BUT I must say spot on treathment with h2o2 seems to work to but not as good as no lights for 2 days
 

CmacLD

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I just have to put my .02 here.
I know people have had great sucess with this but i would use with caution.
I tried this a few weeks back @ 1ml per 10gal
and **** it if i didnt stress the crap outta my prize acan and one of my Favia.. they are not completely gone (YET) i have my fingers crossed they will make a comeback but it has been 2 weeks and no signs of improvement.
I also started to see fin rot on my female Truperc clowns.

However i saw no other neg effects to the rest of my reef... all the SPS seemed to handle it fine.

I made it 5 days and quit out of fear.

wish it would have worked for me :(

good luck to all!!
 

Coral Pimp

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so im on my 5th day dosing 6ml for 2 tanks that are 90g each with tank and sump and i lost alot of stuff. im my sps tank my mimic angel died and spotted dragonet, and lps tank my 3 acans pieces died and a chalice bleached.
 

sjnovakovich

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I'm dealing with a major sargassum problem. I can't control it, so after reading this thread, I've been dosing 4 ml nightly in a JBJ Nano Cube (28) for 9 days now. Sargassum is retreating rapidly and absolutely no damage to any corals including acans, montis, duncans, zoas, and several acros. I dose after lights out. I believe this reduces any possible bleaching. I think that women put H2O2 in their hair and then go into the sun (ladies?). Also, dosing after lights out extends the life of the H2O2 in the system.
 

alberthiel

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Just to change method and not have to use Hydrogen Peroxide, inject the patches with boiling water and the heat should kill some of it off little by little and you can then pull those patches out and as you continue doing so IME you should be able to get rid of it all. FWIW
 

BullSnapper

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Is this dino? It's all over my rocks and zipties in my tank it looks to be white or something ..

57E7F0C3-0A26-400F-89E9-93C2D4D92FB4-4028-000002B9B2DD733D.jpg


2EA5B1F9-0DAF-4C84-9338-7971ED6D2528-4028-000002B9AEA90E09.jpg


And I found my trochus snail dead yesterday and mh frogspawn hasn't been opening up the past 2 days.
 

-Logzor

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I found the following information when researching potential copper contamination in my system. Apparently this person used Seachem Cuprisorb to kill his dino out break, read below:

I'm posting this given the importance of the information in hopes that should someone else have this trouble it will show up on an Internet search. This is an individual who e-mailed Seachem with regard to his experiences with this algae:

comments: Dear Seachem,

I thought you might be interested in hearing a story about my experience with a dreaded and tenacious form of algae/cyanobacteria commonly known as Brown Slime or "Snot" algae, and how it finally wound up being cured by one of your products. It seems that most people (and most pet shops) have never had the misfortune of encountering this stuff, which starts out as a brown dusting on the substrate, rocks, glass, etc, growing like crazy literally overnight, and developing a lot of air bubbles within it. It grows into long, filamentous form, filled with air bubbles, but lacks true hairlike structure or definition. In a matter of a few days to a week it can completely overrun a reef tank. It came out of nowhere in my tank, likely brought in on a piece of live rock, and I fought and fought to try to erradicate it (or at least control it) for the better part of a year. All the while, Phosphates and Nitrates read zero, and I tried to keep the tank very clean, limiting feeding, etc. But I still literally had to scrub all of the glass, rocks, etc. every single day, sometimes more than once, just to keep up with this horrid stuff. I have an external overflow on my tank, and the air bubbles from the brown slime algae would find their way up into the siphon tubes, causing the outflow to the sump to slow down, (and hence the water in the tank to rise). I had to siphon the air out of the tubes at least every 2 or 3 days to avert a disaster, and one morning I awoke to find the tank overflowing onto the floor because of this problem. The cyano finally choked out and killed all of my corals, and turned my 75 gallon reef tank into one big swamp.

Asking advice from various pet stores specializing in reef life (as far away as 180 miles), I tried tearing the entire tank down, scrubbing the rocks, rinsing the aragonite, and cleaning all of the equipment. A few days after I set it all back up again, the slime returned. I added a small army of various types of snails and hermit crabs, a stafish, etc. Even they couldn't keep up with the goo. I next was advised to use Erythromycin. This seemed to slow it down, but after the 4-day treatment, it returned with a vengeance. The pet store next advised to try doubling the Erythromycin dose, and to use it for 5 days. It still didn't phase the stuff. A really large reef store 180 miles away in Washington, DC told me that I should just bleach everything and start over! Several sources, both pet stores and online experts said that what I needed was a refugium with macroalgae, to outcompete the cyano/algae for the nutrients in the water, to control the source of the problem. I built one, stocked it with Chaetomorpha, and put it on RDP lighting. This did bring the brown slime more or less under control, but still did not completely irradicate it. It still would grow in places that the snails could not get to, (such as inside the aforementioned overflow boxes). Somewhere during all of this mess I also had a heater malfunction on me, and woke up one morning to find the water in my tank at 90 degrees F, which stressed my fish and caused an outbreak of cryptocaryon. I did Freshwater dips on all of the fish, treated them for 2 weeks (in a quarantine tank) with copper, and did a 6 week fallow period on the main tank, with no fish in it. During that time, sans fish, the brown slime algae remained mostly under control, but was still there. When I returned the fish to the tank following the 6 week fallow period, I thought that maybe I'd go ahead and run a canister filter with Seachem's Cuprisorb in it, just to be on the safe side - to be sure that the fish didn't bring any trace of copper back into the system with them. Within a week, two very notable things happened. My chaetomorpha macroalgae suddenly started to die off, and the tenacious-as-hell brown slime algae just up and vanished, gone without a trace. It took me almost a week of desperately trying this and that to save my Chaetomorpha, (thinking that its dying off had something to do with the fish coming back into the system), before it dawned on me that all of this had happened after I'd started to run the canister filter with the Cuprisorb in it. (I'd forgotten to order a micron bag to put the cuprisorb in, and had taken an old white handkerchief and sewn it into a small "sock", which I then put the Cuprisorb into)! I did some searching on the internet, and found on Seachem's FAQ page that the Cuprisorb, in addition to removing copper and heavy metals from the water, will also remove IRON and manganese! I bought a bottle of iron supplement, added a few small doses, and my Chaetomorpha sprang back to life. I'd just recently talked to the owner of a local pet store who said he had the same brown slime algae problem in his own reef tank at home, and hadn't been able to find a solution to it. After making my discovery, I ran down to his shop and told him I'd found a simple cure to the problem: Seachem Cuprisorb, in an old handkerchief in a canister filter for a week or so! The brown slime/snot algae is obviously dependent on iron for its growth, and taking the iron out of the water kills it quickly! Afterward, it's a simple matter to add a little iron back into the tank, to support any macroalgae that might be in the refugium. I have since also phoned the "experts" in the Richmond, VA store, (who'd first advised using the Erythromycin, and then later suggested the refugium), and broke the news to them. They seemed to be extremely interested.

So the story definitely has a happy ending, and I hope to share this discovery with other reefkeepers with brown slime/snot algae problems in the future. Thank you Seachem! Your Cuprisorb has literally saved a reef!
 

shred5

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Well there is so much wrong with that post above it is not funny. Most of what he did was fight something he did not have or could not identify. He talks mostly about cyano and then diatoms. Sounds to me like this guy was just going through cylcle. I even question if he had dino's because snails and others would have died.

But cupisorb will remove iron. Funny thing is I have always said I think iron may be a part of the problem with dino's it is not the only problem but is for some. . The area I live in has high iron in its water and dino's are a big problem around here. Problem is limiting iron can be a major problem in a reef since all algae require it and some corals seem to far better with iron like goniopora. I think most algae will out compete dinos for iron though. But problem arises because dinos seem to like very low nutrient systems where other algae cant survive. So all that iron is available just to the dinos and zooxanthallae.
 
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-Logzor

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Well there is so much wrong with that post above it is not funny. Most of what he did was fight something he did not have or could not identify. He talks mostly about cyano and then diatoms. Sounds to me like this guy was just going through cylcle. I even question if he had dino's because snails and others would have died.

But cupisorb will remove iron. Funny thing is I have always said I think iron may be a part of the problem with dino's it is not the only problem but is for some. . The area I live in has high iron in its water and dino's are a big problem around here. Problem is limiting iron can be a major problem in a reef since all algae require it and some corals seem to far better with iron like goniopora. I think most algae will out compete dinos for iron though. But problem arises because dinos seem to like very low nutrient systems where other algae can survive. So all that iron is available just to the dinos and zooxanthallae.

Not sure why there is so much wrong with what he posted, it's a matter of us sorting out what really happened and if in fact Cuprisorb was able to kill off what could very well have been dinos.
 

shred5

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Not sure why there is so much wrong with what he posted, it's a matter of us sorting out what really happened and if in fact Cuprisorb was able to kill off what could very well have been dinos.

whats wrong:
He talks about adding Erythromycin which is for cyano not dyno's
He adds snails and other inverts which you would not ever do with dynos.
He talks about them starting as brown specs, diatoms start as brown specs and also look like dynos.
he said it would grow where snails could not get too. Snails do not eat it because dynos are poisonous.
This person obviously has no idea.




 

-Logzor

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Thanks for the clarification, to be honest, I probably would have made many of the same mistakes, since knowledge of dinos is limited and identification is difficult, it's no surprise this hobbyist tried everything in the book to try to beat what he called brown snot/slime algae.

The question is, did and can Cuprisorb beat them?
 

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