Prorocentrum.
To summarize it.. what was your method to defeating this? Your input is appreciated
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1) Raise nutrients to at least 10/.1 NO3/PO4. Neonitro and Neophos are good bottled versions. If larger system you can DIY mix with Sodium Nitrate and REAL Trisodium Phosphate (not TSP)Prorocentrum.
To summarize it.. what was your method to defeating this? Your input is appreciated
Even with lights off this type of Dino sticks to the sand correct? It isn’t the floating type1) Raise nutrients to at least 10/.1 NO3/PO4. Neonitro and Neophos are good bottled versions. If larger system you can DIY mix with Sodium Nitrate and REAL Trisodium Phosphate (not TSP)
2) Temporary install of UV. To/From the display itself. 1 watt per 3 gallons. Super slow flow through it. Maximize contact.
3) A blackout may help accelerate
4) Run some GAC for toxins
5) Manual removal & disturb
6) No amino acid dosing
It does go into the water to a much lesser extent than ostreopsis. The lights help with this, many cells will still cling to the sand but uv does help and the lights out helps push as many cells as possible to look for new territory.Even with lights off this type of Dino sticks to the sand correct? It isn’t the floating type
It appears that when i raised my white lights from 0% to 10% they started to come back.It does go into the water to a much lesser extent than ostreopsis. The lights help with this, many cells will still cling to the sand but uv does help and the lights out helps push as many cells as possible to look for new territory.
Can you post a pic of your microscope view. I see where you said you ID'd them, but I didn't see a picture.It appears that when i raised my white lights from 0% to 10% they started to come back.
I've had good luck just holding my iPhone up to the eye piece.I don’t know how to connect my camera to microscope
I've had good luck just holding my iPhone up to the eye piece.
Yes that looks like ostreopsis which are a cinch to solve for with a whopping big UV. You would need closer to 100 watts.I believe I have osteoporosis and cyanobacteria in a 310 gallon bare bottom tank. Set up with 120 lbs life rock and about 80 lbs live rock from a 180 gallon I upgraded from about 3 months ago.
Phosphorus and nitrate were testing zero. I turned 5 of the 6 hydra 64’s off and lowered blues to 45%. Turned skimmer off for 10 hours overnight and added 30 ml of microbacter 7. Also turned up temp to 82.
Today I tested at phosphorus 10 (Hannah) and nitrate at .5 (Salifert).
I read that UV sterilizer is the solution, but at almost $750 for a 57 to 80 watt I need to try other options first... have about 300 gallon water volumes with sump.
I have a Bashsea 8-30 bio reactor that got clogged and stopped working not long before the outbreak.
Would putting the bio reactor back online help? Continue dosing microbacter 7? Would running a 5 micron filter inside the display and cleaning daily do anything? Dosing hydrogen peroxide at 3 ml to 10 gallon ration?
Does ostreopsis cover rocks, pumps, and sand?? Thought they mostly stick to sand.
LC Amphids are sand based. Ostreopsis just go where surfaces lack any competing organisms. They like a lot of light and flow too.Does ostreopsis cover rocks, pumps, and sand?? Thought they mostly stick to sand.
Ohh noooo.Well add me to the list of unfortunate souls that managed to get dino's from using Chemiclean. It's bad too, my tank has never looked so terrible and I'm now concerned for my corals. I've been dosing 10mL of NeoNitro and 8mL Phosphate for 3 days as well as MB7 and haven't made much progress. Turned off skimmer, added a bag of carbon last night and went ahead and killed my lights about halfway through the day. Hasn't seemed to get better since killing the lights but hasn't gotten worse either so I guess that's a plus. I guess a microscope is next for me.