Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

[Joshua Hurst]

I have always found that scrapping off the dinos feeds my corals, and gives my tank a natural source of food. Not to menention my tang and clownfish love it

 

[zachxlutz]

Here's the tank in all it's sad, sad glory.

 

[mcarroll]

Btw, what's a lux meter?

Missed this question earlier:
Beginner’s Lux

I'm really not sure where to go from here.

If you ID'd your dino's as Ostreopsis, then the next phase would be to bring nutrients back down...like from green algae growth.

You might try just lowering the N and P levels manually, but not sure that'll be the same.

Recap. post #905 with the Ostropsis diagram and the explanation. If that makes sense (it's a spaghetti mess!) that's roughly your course forward. (Adding that link to the first post too.)

 

[mcarroll]

@ENARP Don't give up on us – just give up on that other thread!! Check out the last post here.

And did you ever ID what's growing in your tank? Also check out post #1010.

 

[ENARP]

@mcarroll Here ya go.........

This was after it started coming back after a blackout. There were 10 times this amount two days later on the slide.


My post from other thread..."I am giving up...tried 3 day black out twice, a seven day black out with Dino-X, no water changes, large water changes, overfeed, under feed, raising PO4, raising NO3, allowing other algae to grow, hydrogen peroxide and over the past 4 1/2 months nothing has worked. The Dino's always come back in a week or two. I do not know if there is any correlation, but Dino's showed up right after the Fluczanole treatment for Bryopsis. So now I am just going to do absolutely nothing, but just make sure I feed the fish from time to time and keep the ATO with water. The process has already wiped out all of my sps coral and most of the softies and half my fish. Quite depressing to go from a tank that I was so proud of to a total waste."

 

[taricha]

I have always found that scrapping off the dinos feeds my corals, and gives my tank a natural source of food. Not to menention my tang and clownfish love it

Diatoms, maybe. But nothing grows on a diet of our dinos. They have too many toxins and chemical defenses.

@mcarroll Here ya go.........

This was after it started coming back after a blackout. There were 10 times this amount two days later on the slide.

Ostreopsis!

 

[taricha]

@zachxlutz time to get these buggers under a scope and start a passive ongoing cell killing/removal system (UV and diatom filtration gets thumbsup).
A few comments based on reading your posts from the last several months.
A lot of the stuff you've done was good, and some of it would be good if done at the right time, and others sound like they'd be good - but actually I've seen it more often help dinos.
Eyes on the prize. Don't get distracted by algae growth, and start worrying about choking down on dosing N & P inputs. After dinos are WELL in the past, then you can scale up grazer population to keep algae in check.
Good on dosing simple inorganic P and N. Don't elevate ORGANIC forms of P & N inputs - dinos do well on this. Feed what you have to. Garf grunge was a great idea. Some few people have seen improvements from healthy live rock additions alone. I guess your tank was too far in grip of dinos to see positives. Try to avoid feeding nori - the seaweed seems to be a 1-stop shop for all the things dinos love. vitamins, trace elements, amino acids etc. Some reefers have seen such increase in dino response that they were convinced that Sea Veggies was contaminated with dino cells. (it wasn't - it just had stuff dinos liked). AcroPower - dinos LOVE this stuff (amino acids). I can grow incredible densities of nasty brown by adding this. Live phyto and copepods. this is so dumb, but these inputs help rather than hurt dinos. Copepods are too small and fragile to eat any noticeable amount of dinos, and instead they get trapped and killed in dino mucus and become dino food, I suspect the phyto ends up the same. I'm also worried about your clean up crew additions. Based on the pictures, it seems they'll mostly be eating dinos, which means they'll either succumb to toxins gradually or starve from avoiding bad stuff. Run some GAC for a little toxin protection - what you described on your birdsnest sends up red flags. That "dino smell" you reported - we don't know if the smell is dino toxin, or if its from dino-associated bacteria, but it's a good indicator that they are running the show in your system. I guess what I'm saying is any animals you add and any phyto/copepods that go into a system with visible dinos, are basically an organic nutrient input, and their death will fuel the dino growth.
Side-note: aquavitro activate 99% chance it's fine. But paranoid me would rather put high P miracle grow that's thoroughly labeled into my tank (and I have) than dose something that says "It's phosphorus - trust us it's 4 good kinds". RHF comment on it elsewhere was it's nothing special so I guess it's fine. Still when I'm trying to add something specific in a particular form I hate labels that tell me "Ingredients: all good stuff, with no bad things added!"

sorry: long post, but you've been doing lots of intelligent things and seen poor results, felt like it deserved detailed feedback.

p.s. really interested in your scope ID. The growth form preferring sand is not typical of ostreopsis, but only seen that nasty dino smell reported with ostis.

 

[zachxlutz]

@zachxlutz time to get these buggers under a scope and start a passive ongoing cell killing/removal system (UV and diatom filtration gets thumbsup).
A few comments based on reading your posts from the last several months.
A lot of the stuff you've done was good, and some of it would be good if done at the right time, and others sound like they'd be good - but actually I've seen it more often help dinos.
Eyes on the prize. Don't get distracted by algae growth, and start worrying about choking down on dosing N & P inputs. After dinos are WELL in the past, then you can scale up grazer population to keep algae in check.
Good on dosing simple inorganic P and N. Don't elevate ORGANIC forms of P & N inputs - dinos do well on this. Feed what you have to. Garf grunge was a great idea. Some few people have seen improvements from healthy live rock additions alone. I guess your tank was too far in grip of dinos to see positives. Try to avoid feeding nori - the seaweed seems to be a 1-stop shop for all the things dinos love. vitamins, trace elements, amino acids etc. Some reefers have seen such increase in dino response that they were convinced that Sea Veggies was contaminated with dino cells. (it wasn't - it just had stuff dinos liked). AcroPower - dinos LOVE this stuff (amino acids). I can grow incredible densities of nasty brown by adding this. Live phyto and copepods. this is so dumb, but these inputs help rather than hurt dinos. Copepods are too small and fragile to eat any noticeable amount of dinos, and instead they get trapped and killed in dino mucus and become dino food, I suspect the phyto ends up the same. I'm also worried about your clean up crew additions. Based on the pictures, it seems they'll mostly be eating dinos, which means they'll either succumb to toxins gradually or starve from avoiding bad stuff. Run some GAC for a little toxin protection - what you described on your birdsnest sends up red flags. That "dino smell" you reported - we don't know if the smell is dino toxin, or if its from dino-associated bacteria, but it's a good indicator that they are running the show in your system. I guess what I'm saying is any animals you add and any phyto/copepods that go into a system with visible dinos, are basically an organic nutrient input, and their death will fuel the dino growth.
Side-note: aquavitro activate 99% chance it's fine. But paranoid me would rather put high P miracle grow that's thoroughly labeled into my tank (and I have) than dose something that says "It's phosphorus - trust us it's 4 good kinds". RHF comment on it elsewhere was it's nothing special so I guess it's fine. Still when I'm trying to add something specific in a particular form I hate labels that tell me "Ingredients: all good stuff, with no bad things added!"

sorry: long post, but you've been doing lots of intelligent things and seen poor results, felt like it deserved detailed feedback.

p.s. really interested in your scope ID. The growth form preferring sand is not typical of ostreopsis, but only seen that nasty dino smell reported with ostis.

Thanks for taking the time to review my posts @taricha.

I posted these a while back but never had a clear answer on ID. I’ll get the scope out tonight and siphon some from the sand bed and repost some photos. The Dinos are making/trapping more bubbles than they were at the time of these photos so I’m concerned the Dino population has shifted since these photos.

I’ll hold off on any future phyto dosing (was 60 ml live phyto daily).

I had been dosing a light dose of acropower but pulled that offline and haven’t seen a decrease in Dino growth. I might still have some aminos floating around in the system though.

I’m due for a carbon swap tonight, so I’ll replace that as well.

Re: nori. I’m sure the tang and the fox face will be ok for a while only getting mysis and pellets?

The diatom filter and UV filter will arrive tomorrow and I’ll set those up. Should I be agitating the sand bed and blowing off the rocks more once I get them going in order to get the dinos in the water column to be filtered/killed?

 

[taricha]

The Dinos are making/trapping more bubbles than they were at the time of these photos so I’m concerned the Dino population has shifted since these photos.

Those photos are almost certainly Large cell amphidinium, but I think I agree the bubbles say we should look again. Also comment about "water being brown after scraping glass" also points to something else. Vid can really make an ID easier, if possible.

Re: nori. I’m sure the tang and the fox face will be ok for a while only getting mysis and pellets?

Dunno what those fish can/can't take. But if they can go without nori for a while, then do it. Sounds weird, I know.

The diatom filter and UV filter will arrive tomorrow and I’ll set those up. Should I be agitating the sand bed and blowing off the rocks more once I get them going in order to get the dinos in the water column to be filtered/killed?

No. Not at first. Best not to kill them all too fast. Toxin risk. After you see big reduction in population, then yes - agitate, blast, stir etc. Get as many into water as possible.

 

[zachxlutz]

Those photos are almost certainly Large cell amphidinium, but I think I agree the bubbles say we should look again. Also comment about "water being brown after scraping glass" also points to something else. Vid can really make an ID easier, if possible.

Dunno what those fish can/can't take. But if they can go without nori for a while, then do it. Sounds weird, I know.

No. Not at first. Best not to kill them all too fast. Toxin risk. After you see big reduction in population, then yes - agitate, blast, stir etc. Get as many into water as possible.

• Thoughts on continuing dosing of inorganic nitrate/phosphate?

• What about my refugium lighting time? I've recently decreased it drastically from 18 hours to 6 hours a night in an effort to decease the macro consumption of nutrients to allow for the the tank to grow some algae and outcompete the dinos. It really seems like my actions of increasing nutrients and decreasing nutrient export has allowed for the dinos to explode.

• Large cell amphidinium responds well to UV, correct?

 

[Beardo]

Those photos are almost certainly Large cell amphidinium, but I think I agree the bubbles say we should look again. Also comment about "water being brown after scraping glass" also points to something else. Vid can really make an ID easier, if possible.


Dunno what those fish can/can't take. But if they can go without nori for a while, then do it. Sounds weird, I know.

No. Not at first. Best not to kill them all too fast. Toxin risk. After you see big reduction in population, then yes - agitate, blast, stir etc. Get as many into water as possible.

I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination but the sesame seed shape of some of the darker colored dinos make it look like there are Ostreopsis mixed in with the amphidinium.

 

[taricha]

• Thoughts on continuing dosing of inorganic nitrate/phosphate?

• What about my refugium lighting time? I've recently decreased it drastically from 18 hours to 6 hours a night in an effort to decease the macro consumption of nutrients to allow for the the tank to grow some algae and outcompete the dinos. It really seems like my actions of increasing nutrients and decreasing nutrient export has allowed for the dinos to explode.

• Large cell amphidinium responds well to UV, correct?

Inorganic P (&N) keep these measurably elevated.
Large cell amphidinium DOESN'T respond to UV, but tank pics and descriptions say that's not the biggest or only culprit at the moment.
And I say grow as much algae as you can, wherever you can. And if it lowers your P & N, dose more.

 

[taricha]

I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination but the sesame seed shape of some of the darker colored dinos make it look like there are Ostreopsis mixed in with the amphidinium.

You are right. A couple cells in that sample did look just like ostreopsis, many more looked like the amphidinium traits, and most there wasn't enough detail to be sure.
Vid to go along with the pic would help a ton.
And now, it seems like the population may have shifted since the pic anyway.

 

[zachxlutz]

I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination but the sesame seed shape of some of the darker colored dinos make it look like there are Ostreopsis mixed in with the amphidinium.

Inorganic P (&N) keep these measurably elevated.
Large cell amphidinium DOESN'T respond to UV, but tank pics and descriptions say that's not the biggest or only culprit at the moment.
And I say grow as much algae as you can, wherever you can. And if it lowers your P & N, dose more.

You are right. A couple cells in that sample did look just like ostreopsis, many more looked like the amphidinium traits, and most there wasn't enough detail to be sure.
Vid to go along with the pic would help a ton.
And now, it seems like the population may have shifted since the pic anyway.

Understood.

Steps to take:

• New video/photo of microscope for further ID.
• Decrease organic N/P dosing (nori cut back to every couple of days, only one sheet, etc)
• Inorganic N and P dosing to continue.
• UV to be added tomorrow (36 watt, 120 gallons, 520 gph pump, should i restrict flow?).
• Diatom filter to be added tomorrow.
• Fuge lighting to increase back to 18 hours reverse photoperiod w/ dosing to increase as needed.

In my other thread there are some suggestions of stopping all dosing altogether and see what happens. Thoughts?

 

[Tony Thompson]

Although a novice to Marine Aquariums, I am very interested in the science behind the hobby. I have a number of saltwater tanks (7) that I run experiments on to try different methods and products. I am not a qualified Biologist or Chemist but I try to keep controlled conditions in my experiments and compare my observations against published scientific data. Please forgive my Latin spelling, I tend to remember names by phonetics.

In two of my experiments,
experiment 1. Dosing Carbon Source for increased action of Hetotrphic Bacteria using NOPOX,
experiment 2. Excessive dosing of Phyto Plankton, Nanocropolis. and its effects on nutrient saturation.

On both of these experiments I used different aquariums with no cross contamination. In both instances, at some point I observed an outbreak of what I confirmed through my microscope as Dinoflegalettes. On each separate experiment the species of Dino where different. The first species where oval and produced a brown like substance and the second species where oval with a small protrusion and produced a red stringy substance that looked similar to Cyano but on inspection under the scope. Cyano was ruled out.

I had read an article in Advanced Aquarist which explored the raising of PH, but the author commented that the effects where inconclusive. I also read about a multi pronged approach, Blackout, and raised PH. Once again most of the comments surrounding these methods where inconclusive.

As a point of interest,
experiment( 1 ) had undetectable NO4 on Red Sea Nitrate Pro test and PO4 at about 0.08ppm again on Red Se Pro test. and
experiment (2) had NO3 10 ppm and again PO4 around 0.16ppm.

I will keep this post on the subject of first combating the Dino long term and leave the nutrient control for maybe another post as this concerned a number of other experiments I carried out.

To control the Dino I first tried a total blackout for 5 days. This worked very well as the after 3 days the Dino where no where to be seen, however after just 2 days of lighting, the Dino started to re appear. I did not want to elevate the PH using Kalk as this seemed to be only another short term solution that would not target the Dinos alone but effect the entire balance in the tank. After a little research I decided to use a chemical solution that seemed to target the Dino themselves.

The product I decided to use was Dino-X, I reduced my lighting schedule to 10 Hrs Blue Spectrum and 5 hrs Full spectrum. I dosed the product Dino X exactly as instructed for a period of 14 days once every two days after lights out. I also skimmed 24hrs a day to overcome any possible effects of oxygen deficiency. IME on both accounts the Dino completely dissipated after about 4 days and after the full treatment of 14 days, I once again monitored my parameters and kept observation for any appearance of the Dino for a further 8 weeks. On both experiments I continued to run Aluminium Oxide to keep PO4 at around 0.08 ppm and NO4 between 5 ppm - 10 ppm. I did not see a re appearance of any Dino Bloom in either tank. IME Dino X has been a very successful as a simple method to kill of any Dino bloom.

Of course with any treatment you must also look at the initial cause and use targeted measures to prevent any future reassurance. In my case this was to stop dosing NOPOX as a carbon source and stop dosing Phytoplankton. I am glad to say that I have had no more observable blooms of any particular bacteria in my aquariums whilst still maintaining my parameters at the levels I prefer. No3 5ppm and PO4 0.04ppm.

Whilst I must repeat that in no way can I qualify my findings with any scientific data, I can say that my experience has led me to believe that a good mix of strains of hetotrphic bacteria and other lower food chain organisms in a balanced amount leads to a much more stable reef aquarium. Fortunately I have now found a system and range of products that allow me to maintain this level with ease. Hope my experience may help others that are looking for a tool to battle dinos. I must point out that first, you must make an accurate diagnosis using a microscope before making a decision on treatment product. You should always use any product, accurately and exactly as prescribed by the manufacturer. Make accurate measurements of water volume minus displacement and accurate measures of dosing. If you do not follow the manufacturers guidelines, it will be either ineffective, or worse, detrimental to your animals.

 

[Beardo]

exactly like you said - first close-up is ostreopsis (sesame seed), last close-up is coolia (round - also the low power shot is this one plus 2 forms of pennate diatoms) ...

And this one is prorocentrum (oval).

These kinds all have and do respond to UV in other people's systems.
To address what @mcarroll was saying earlier, about your UV being well-rated for the size - the manufacturers ratings are based on tiny bacteria and 5 micron greenwater (microalgae) - not based on our massive 60 micron armored dinos. so I don't know how good their guidance is.
If your issue is power, then just based on a handful of anecdotes 2 gallons per UVwatt is enough, and based on you - 5 gallons per watt maybe isn't. I had kinda spitballed 3gal per watt as a minimum wattage number to maybe go for - but I haven't seen enough reports to have any confidence. And maybe your UV stopped working at all? The small tank test should provide some guidance there.
I did a test once with ostreopsis - poured them through a 24W UV (the pour was slower flow than normal operation) to see if it was a one-trip kill, in which case the only issue would be getting the dinos to go through. The ostis were still swimming happily immediately after as well as 24 hours later. It's only one very unscientific test, but I suspect this means the damage is done by repeated accumulated oxidative stress from multiple trips through the UV.
And maybe it doesn't kill them at all - maybe they just spend all their energy repairing the oxidative damage that they can't thrive. I dunno. [edit: actually multiple reports of ostis disappearing in less than 3 days "overnight" as some claim - means that the effect is stronger than just not being able to grow and thrive anymore]
but I know the prorocentrum and coolia are strongly reduced, and ostis are pushed to near oblivion by properly functioning UV.

Wanted to provide an update and another data point to the UV sizing discussion.
As previously mentioned I was running a 57 watt AquaUV on my 270. This was run from an indepent pump pulling suction from the skimmer section and discharging to the return section of the sump. Never saw any results on dinos.
I decided to try a larger unit to prevent a tank reset (maintaining phosphates and nitrates at recommended levels wasn't working for me and remaining corals were dying).
On September 8th I installed a 114 watt AquaUV unit and plumbed into my return line. Would have been running a week earlier but first unit I received had a cracked housing. Don't know the flow rate but would guess in the 1,000 gph range (Vectra L1 return pump running at about 55% and the additional head loss from the plumbing configuration). I blasted the rocks every night right after lights out for the first week. By the end of the first week, and since, I have not been able to find any living Ostreopsis, Coolia or Prorocentrum dinos. Both large and small cell amphidinium are alive and well though, which isn't entirely unexpected.

 

[Beuchat]

Hi,

Why are you not using ozone. It kills ostreopsis and prorocentrum when dosed for several days. I got rid of two plagues in two weeks. Total erradicación confirmed with my microscope

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Hi,

Why are you not using ozone. It kills ostreopsis and prorocentrum when dosed for several days. I got rid of two plagues in two weeks. Total erradicación confirmed with my microscope

If one hopes to kill organisms with ozone directly, you will need to use it in a way much stronger than reefers normally do. Normal ozone usage does not raise the oxidants high enough for long enough to kill much in the water. You would typically need a dedicated ozone reactor for that. Otherwise you risk substantial toxicity to other aquarium inhabitants (although in desperation, that may not be the critical factor).

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 1: Chemistry and Biochemistry by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

Reducing Bacteria When Using Ozone

Bacteria and other organisms suspended in water can be killed by adequate exposure to ozone. That process is widely used to disinfect drinking water and wastewater in a variety of applications. The doses and exposures of ozone required for disinfection, however, are quite high. They are higher than are used in reef aquarium applications, where typical doses of ozone range up to about 0.3 ppm in typical contact chambers, and last for only a few seconds. Consequently, aquarists must be careful when translating disinfection literature to reef aquarium effects.

In a recent study of a recirculating seawater system,35 the dosing of 0.52 ppm of ozone was tested for its ability to decrease the system's bacterial load. That dose is similar to a 300 mg/hr ozone unit applied to a typical small skimmer flow rate of 150 gallons per hour (568 L/h). In this experiment, the levels of suspended bacteria (both Vibrio and coliform) were analyzed in a variety of locations (intake, pre-ozone, post-ozone, pre-tank, and post-tank). In no case was there a statistically significant reduction in bacteria. Even the addition of a venturi injector to the contact chamber did not adequately help (although it trended toward fewer bacteria, the result was not statistically significant). For comparison purposes, at higher ozone concentrations and contact times (5.3 ppm ozone for 240 minutes), Vibrio vulnificus is easily killed, with fewer than one in a hundred million of the initial bacteria remaining.36

How much ozone, and for how long, is required to kill suspended organisms in seawater? In one study of a suspended dinoflagellate algae (Amphidinium sp. isolated from Australia's Great Barrier Reef), it was found that 5-11 ppm ozone for six hours of exposure was required to kill 99.99% of the organisms.37 While that kill rate is impressive, that exposure is far higher than is ever achieved in a reef aquarium application. Lower doses and shorter contact times had smaller effects. A dose of 2 ppm and a short contact time (with the time not stated in the paper) showed a reduction in bacteria of abut 98% (which is still quite significant, but would not be referred to as disinfection).

Similar results were found for the spores of the bacterium Bacillus subtilis.38 In this case, doses of 14 ppm ozone for 24 hours were required to kill 99.99 percent of the spores. In another study 99.9% of fecal coliforms, fecal streptococci and total coliforms were killed with 10 ppm ozone and a contact time of 10 minutes.39 The exposure of Vibrio species and Fusarium solani (bacteria that are pathogenic to shrimp) to 3 ppm ozone for five minutes killed 99.9% of the bacteria.40 Water from a seawater swimming pool was effectively sterilized using 0.5-1.0 ppm ozone in a contact tower.41

The data for the disinfection of freshwater systems are much more extensive, and so include more data at lower contact times and concentrations. In one experiment at a Rainbow trout hatchery, the addition of 1-1.3 ppm of ozone with a contact time of 35 seconds reduced heterotrophic bacteria in the aquarium water itself by about 40-90%.42

Does the ozone used in a typical reef aquarium application reduce bacteria? Maybe, but certainly not to the extent required for disinfection. Still, a reduction of 50% of the living bacteria could have significant effects. The above study in the trout hatchery showed that the use of ozone at several times the typical reef aquarium rate and for about five to ten times the typical contact time results in such a drop. While the data are unavailable, I expect that the bacteria in the water exiting a normal reef aquarium's ozone application are not decreased by as much as 50%.

It seem reasonable to conclude from such literature studies that most bacteria that enter the ozone reaction chamber in a typical reef aquarium application will not be killed by ozone or its byproducts. If killing bacteria in the water column is a goal, then a UV (ultraviolet) sterilizer may be more useful.

Reducing Other Pathogens When Using Ozone

There has been extensive analysis of the amount of ozone needed to kill the human pathogen Cryptosporidia parvum in freshwater. Most such studies are looking for significant disinfection, but some data points show the effects at lower doses and contact times, and some researchers have developed models that suggest the amount of killing at any dose/time combination.43 For example, at 22° C approximately 63% of the organisms would be expected to be killed at 1 ppm ozone with a contact time of one minute. The contact times and concentrations are inversely related, so at a contact time of six seconds, the required dose to kill 63% is on the order of 10 ppm ozone. At 0.3 ppm ozone and a six second contact time, typical for the high end of reef ozone applications, less than 5% of the organisms would be expected to be killed.

Many viruses are much easier to inactivate with ozone than are other pathogens.44 Enteric adenovirus, for example, is inactivated to the extent of 99.8% after exposure to 0.5 ppm for 15 seconds.44 Feline calicivirus is inactivated to the extent of 98.6% after exposure to 0.06 ppm for 15 seconds.44 Poliovirus type 1 was inactivated to 99% within 30 seconds of contact time at 0.15 ppm ozone.45 Hepatitis A virus was inactivated to the extent of 99.999% within one minute at 1 ppm ozone.46 Norwalk virus was inactivated by 99.9% in 10 seconds of contact at 0.37 ppm ozone.47 Adenovirus type 2 was inactivated by 99.99% by 0.2 ppm ozone with a contact time of about one minute.48

The eggs of a pathogenic helminth (Ascaris suum) were killed to the extent of 90% by exposure to 3.5-4.7 ppm ozone for one hour. One additional hour of exposure killed the remainder.49

It seems reasonable to conclude from such literature studies that many viruses that enter the ozone reaction chamber in a typical reef aquarium application may be killed by ozone or its byproducts. Larger pathogens, however, are likely much more resistant to ozone, and are unlikely to be killed. For such ends, a UV sterilizer may be more useful, but still may not be completely effective.

 

[Victoria M]

Thank you Randy.

 

[zachxlutz]

@taricha

Here's some updated video and a photo of what I'm dealing with. Well, at least one of the things. Sorry about the **** quality. I should have invested in a better microscope.