Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

[mcarroll]

They are greenish gold color, I was thinking in chrysophyta

How are they to touch? IME chrysophytes are slimy, but chunkier/more substantial than cyanobacteria. Sometimes they look "goopy" if that means anything.

The scope photos could be chrysophytes, but the detail as you said doesn't help a lot.

Have you compared with the photos at this link already?


Hard to be sure, but they do look similar.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Most seawater chrysos aren't motile. Its difficult to say without higher power magnifiction. Could also be a form of cyano.

 

[JAMSOURY]

Picked up a uv sterilizer, does it have an effect on copepods?

 

[Jolanta]

How are they to touch? IME chrysophytes are slimy, but chunkier/more substantial than cyanobacteria. Sometimes they look "goopy" if that means anything.

The scope photos could be chrysophytes, but the detail as you said doesn't help a lot.

Have you compared with the photos at this link already?


Hard to be sure, but they do look similar.

They dont look like anybof those they are round in shape. I will try to take a beter picture.

 

[Jolanta]

Most seawater chrysos aren't motile. Its difficult to say without higher power magnifiction. Could also be a form of cyano.

Maybe they are chrysophyta then. Now I know how important is to have a scope to check out your tank, they really do look like dinos and if I didnt check I would be sure I still have ostreopsis,maybe thats why some treats say UV doesnt work.

 

[Jolanta]

Picked up a uv sterilizer, does it have an effect on copepods?

Pods stay in the rock so surely you are safe to use it and they will be ok, maybe some will get traped in to uv but sure not all.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Maybe they are chrysophyta then. Now I know how important is to have a scope to check out your tank, they really do look like dinos and if I didnt check I would be sure I still have ostreopsis,maybe thats why some treats say UV doesnt work.

No, I think a form of cyanobacteria.

Some sort of immobile n-fixing unicellular cyanobacteria.

 

[AlanM]

I’m trying to increase nitrate and phosphate to help the green in the tank outcompete the dinos.

What level of phosphate do most trying this method aim to maintain?

I’m making up my solution with monosodium phosphate and trying to come up with a solution that will let me dose in volumes I can easily measure.

 

[Jolanta]

No, I think a form of cyanobacteria.

Some sort of immobile n-fixing unicellular cyanobacteria.

I will search info about kind of ciano, hope to figure out what are those. Thanks

 

[Jolanta]

How are they to touch? IME chrysophytes are slimy, but chunkier/more substantial than cyanobacteria. Sometimes they look "goopy" if that means anything.

The scope photos could be chrysophytes, but the detail as you said doesn't help a lot.

Have you compared with the photos at this link already?


Hard to be sure, but they do look similar.

Yes they feel kind of smily

 

[matic]

Guys I need some advise; I'm thinking about adding more cuc like some snails. I have a lot of denitrus buil-up every couple of days on my rocks that I think maybe adding fuel for the dino"s. But after fighting almost a year with dino's my water has seen dinoX, phycoEx, dinoxal, H2O2 and I didn't do a water change for months, I'm afraid this wil fuel more dino's. Has my water become dangerous to snails or other micro-fauna? I have GFO bags in the water for a couple of weeks now, does this remove al the toxins from the dino's and dino-treatments? Thanks for the help!

 

[mcarroll]

Guys I need some advise; I'm thinking about adding more cuc like some snails.

If I recall correctly you said the tank was doing better.

As soon as you turn the corner on dino's, that should mean that you have no more worries from toxins.

That's when you start (re)building your CUC. Bring them up to correct numbers.

You also want to be keeping the tank cleaned by your own efforts until the snails/crabs/what-have-you get into gear. So use a powerhead to blow off the rocks and clean out the sand – or something like that.

 

[matic]

I was doing better for a week or 2... I now completly removed my sandbed. My rock are covered with some sort of red/pink algea with some white dusting (think its organic) that is taking over but the dino's are still there, mostly on the sand but also on the rocks.

 

[Waterbourn]

Can anyone identify this dino? for me.

Here is one under high mag. And one under low. Looks purple under low. It is mobile and swims quite fast sandbed is so brown. It came after I used chemiclean to rid cyano. Now it is everywhere on sand, but no rocks.

Phosphate is 0. Nitrate is 1.5 ppm. I stopped gfo and switched to algea scrubber awhile back Should I add nitrate?

View attachment 20180216_115714.jpg

 

[JAMSOURY]

I’m trying to increase nitrate and phosphate to help the green in the tank outcompete the dinos.

What level of phosphate do most trying this method aim to maintain?

I’m making up my solution with monosodium phosphate and trying to come up with a solution that will let me dose in volumes I can easily measure.

I screenshotted this from one of the old posts. Looks like good numbers to follow

 

[JAMSOURY]

I’m going to evacuate some corals because I’ve lost a couple sps frags due to always being covered in the Dino. If I put it in another tank, am I risking contaminating the new tank with Dinos from the old?

 

[Mike S]

So my tank was fallow for 3 months due to a velvet outbreak. I ghost fed during that period but apparently not enough. A few weeks before my fallow period ended my nitrates bottomed out. I wasn't too concerned because I still had some small patches of hair algae and I was close to returning the fish to the tank. Last week the fish went back in and all was well again. This week I noticed that all of the hair algae died back. Nitrates were still zero and phosphate is around 0.05. A few days ago I noticed a some dinos making an appearance. I was going to start dosing nitrate anyway to gradualy get it up around 5 ppm. I'm also going to dial back my ATS. Hopefully this takes care of it before it gets much worse.

 

[mcarroll]

I’m going to evacuate some corals because I’ve lost a couple sps frags due to always being covered in the Dino. If I put it in another tank, am I risking contaminating the new tank with Dinos from the old?

Yes, but only if you're running it by the same protocols as the originating tank. (A healthy, mature tank would probably just eat a small supply of dino's.)

So my tank was fallow for 3 months due to a velvet outbreak. I ghost fed during that period but apparently not enough. A few weeks before my fallow period ended my nitrates bottomed out. I wasn't too concerned because I still had some small patches of hair algae and I was close to returning the fish to the tank. Last week the fish went back in and all was well again. This week I noticed that all of the hair algae died back. Nitrates were still zero and phosphate is around 0.05. A few days ago I noticed a some dinos making an appearance. I was going to start dosing nitrate anyway to gradualy get it up around 5 ppm. I'm also going to dial back my ATS. Hopefully this takes care of it before it gets much worse.

Fallow. Ghost feeding. Both very trendy, but results are so mixed.

PO4 is more crucial than nitrates. Unfortunately 0.05 ppm is close enough to zero that it might effectively be zero.

So i wouldn't dose nitrates without having PO4 on hand to dose as well.

Dial back the ATS, remember to keep all your adjustments small and that you have a medium and long term goal of stability.....can't get there in big steps.

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

...I have GFO bags in the water for a couple of weeks now, does this remove al the toxins from the dino's and dino-treatments? Thanks for the help!

GFO doesn't get rid of toxins, GAC does. GFO removes phosphates. Replace the GFO with GAC but use smaller amounts and switch it out every week or sooner if things in you tank start looking sick and lethargic.

...Phosphate is 0. Nitrate is 1.5 ppm. I stopped gfo and switched to algea scrubber awhile back Should I add nitrate?...

Dose PO4. You need both but PO4 is more important as mcarroll stated just above.

 

[mdd1986]

I'm trying to identify what i have in my tank. Its brown and stringy growing on my Zoas and GSP. When I look under the microscope I see alot of dino looking things but they are clean in color not green and do not move at all. Any ideas what it could be?