Dino ID please

[Reefrookey]

Hello!
I am having trouble making a positive ID even after reviewing the posted info.

 

[supernanoguy]

#reefhelp #reefsquad might help.

 

[Reefahholic]

This is Dino’s.

 

[ScottB]

This is Dino’s.

Specifically, that is ostreopsis.

 

[ScottB]

Hello!
I am having trouble making a positive ID even after reviewing the posted info.

Sorry, I cannot make out which species you have there. Any chance you can get a video so that we can see a swim pattern? It is often very helpful.

You can also view the videos linked in the ID guide to get a match based on movement. They are often very distinctive.

Dinoflagellate Identification Guide

I've had this laying around for a while. Had some recent interest, so I tweaked it a bit and am posting it. Not really about cures just ID pictures, videos, and a few short facts. Hope it can be helpful.

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Idoc]

I can't tell what type of dino you have in the pictures. Maybe try some additional photos.

 

[saltyhog]

As above, a video at the power you used above would help. It looks like Coolia to me. Let me see if I can find the video I made of coolia and see if it looks like yours to you.

 

[saltyhog]

Here's a less magnified view of their movement pattern.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Time to go to battle
Before treatment, check your phosphate and nitrate to assure levels aren’t elevated
Blow loose with a turkey baster. It will capture and clean more surface area. Here is full program:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

 

[Reefrookey]

Here is a video. I hope it helps. I noted that they do not appear to have a “anchor point” like is described for Ostreopsis.
Thanks for you help!!
Adam

 

[Reefrookey]

Ok. I think I figured it out.

January 4, 2021

youtube.com

 

[ScottB]

Ok. I think I figured it out.

January 4, 2021

youtube.com

I am going to go with a combo:
Large cell amphidinium
Coolia

Good news is that neither are very toxic. That means you do NOT need to be super aggressive as they won't kill anything. Coolia can be treated with UV pretty well but LC amphids just burrow into the sand at night so UV does nothing for them.

You can read up on the Amphidinium Treatment thread for some treatment methods. Most are some combination of what @vetteguy53081 suggests.

 

[Reefrookey]

Here's a less magnified view of their movement pattern.

I think the swim pattern is very similar to the video I posted.

 

[Reefrookey]

I am going to go with a combo:
Large cell amphidinium
Coolia

Good news is that neither are very toxic. That means you do NOT need to be super aggressive as they won't kill anything. Coolia can be treated with UV pretty well but LC amphids just burrow into the sand at night so UV does nothing for them.

You can read up on the Amphidinium Treatment thread for some treatment methods. Most are some combination of what @vetteguy53081 suggests.

Thank you so much!! I really appreciate the help!

 

[saltyhog]

I think @ScottB is right about it being coolia and I thought I saw one amphidinium on the video. Coolia is susceptible to UV, though not as much as ostreopsis. Keep NO3 and PO4 around 5-10 and 0.06-0.12 respectively and consider dosing silicates (water glass). Let me know if you decide to go with UV as there are some specifics in how you size and plumb it.

 

[Reefrookey]

Time to go to battle
Before treatment, check your phosphate and nitrate to assure levels aren’t elevated
Blow loose with a turkey baster. It will capture and clean more surface area. Here is full program:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

Thanks a lot for the info! I will start my treatment ASAP!

I think @ScottB is right about it being coolia and I thought I saw one amphidinium on the video. Coolia is susceptible to UV, though not as much as ostreopsis. Keep NO3 and PO4 around 5-10 and 0.06-0.12 respectively and consider dosing silicates (water glass). Let me know if you decide to go with UV as there are some specifics in how you size and plumb it.

I actually have ordered a 40w pentair smart UV. My tank has a total volume of approximately 200 gallons. Do you think it is large enough to handle my tank? The rating for this particular unit, lists a max tank size of 256 gallons. I would love to hear your recommendations for plumbing it.
Thank you very much for your help!

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks a lot for the info! I will start my treatment ASAP!

I actually have ordered a 40w pentair smart UV. My tank has a total volume of approximately 200 gallons. Do you think it is large enough to handle my tank? The rating for this particular unit, lists a max tank size of 256 gallons. I would love to hear your recommendations for plumbing it.
Thank you very much for your help!

It will work

 

[Privateye]

Thanks a lot for the info! I will start my treatment ASAP!

I actually have ordered a 40w pentair smart UV. My tank has a total volume of approximately 200 gallons. Do you think it is large enough to handle my tank? The rating for this particular unit, lists a max tank size of 256 gallons. I would love to hear your recommendations for plumbing it.
Thank you very much for your help!

There isn't much published information on UV dose and reef dinoflagellates if I'm not mistaken, but as for the UV it should provide you with approximately 150 mJ/cm2 or more (150,000 microwatts) assuming the UV transmittance of your water is 90% or better. Run the unit at ~1 system turnover per hour (4.26 gallons per minute, but 4-4.5 gpm should be fine if possible).

That's a pretty strong dose for treating algae/bacteria. It's more in the pathogen-range. I'd guess that should be more than sufficient if it's susceptible to UV. If it's overpowered, then that means you can stray further on the flow rate.

 

[saltyhog]

Thanks a lot for the info! I will start my treatment ASAP!

I actually have ordered a 40w pentair smart UV. My tank has a total volume of approximately 200 gallons. Do you think it is large enough to handle my tank? The rating for this particular unit, lists a max tank size of 256 gallons. I would love to hear your recommendations for plumbing it.
Thank you very much for your help!

No, that's not big enough for your tank. Those ratings are for a completely different application than dinos. It should be plumbed from the tank back to the tank (not from the sump/return) with a dedicated pump, in your case pumping about 200-600 gph. I tend to try to hit in the middle...say 350-400 gph for you.


A picture of my UV and plumbing.

 

[Privateye]

A UV sterilizer should always have pre-filtration if possible or it will require more-frequent cleaning of the quartz sleeve. Tough to say if the UV will be sufficient at a higher flow rate than I mentioned. That reduces the dosage delivered to the microbes that pass through it. Still, as I mentioned, I'm not aware of a confirmed dose, so maybe a higher dose or flow rate would be required. Your UV is good for a very wide variety of microbes, but I can't make a blanket statement for all of those that are unknown to science. All we have in the hobby is anecdotal evidence at the moment.