Diatoms back after beating GHA Bloom??

jeep454

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Tank is about 6-7 months old had my first Diatom bloom 3-4 months in and it went away. Shortly afterwards water got super cloudy and GHA bloom came overnight. Added a UV filter to my sump and beat the GHA. Now I have Diatoms covering the whole substrate surface... when I first setup the tank I had just mixed marine salt with conditioned tap like an idiot.. I did a fairly aggressive water change with pre mixed saltwater at LFS and have been using that since then so any silicates should be gone I would assume. Any livestock I have is active and healthy. What should I do?
Here is tank info and parameters.
-30 gallon
-7Lbs of live rock
-1.5 inch of live sand substrate
-165W reef light that Is on for 11-12h
-1 powerhead
-Frag of Xenia that is growing like crazy
-Frag of GSP that is growing slowly
-Condy (I think) that is healthy and eating
-Mandarin Goby
-2 Percula Clowns
-1 Arrow Crab
-2 Trochus Snails
-1 Nassarius Snails
-2 large Nerite Snails

-79 Water temp
-phosphate barely detectable
-Nitrate 5
-Calcium 400
-PH 8.2
-KH 8
-Salinity 1.028

New Sump is a 10 gallon with baffles
-filter sock
-protein Skimmer
-media bags with ceramic rings
-activated carbon
-UV Sterilizer
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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you should rip clean the tank, because you translocated a bunch of dead algae into alternate invasion fuel

recommend: study the 700 page dinos invasion thread stickied at the top of the nuisance algae forum. nearly every page is your issue: they do not physically remove the offenders from the tank, they kill them internally. a few weeks later a new invasion capitalizes on the rotting mass and it's circular, cyclical for years now and they aren't getting off the wheel any time soon.

you rip clean your tank to make it comply, until you learn how to reef without it. allowing an invaded tank is mere passivity especially in a nano where it can easily be made to comply with the right resolve, the right motivation.

your lighting is nearly certainly entirely too bright, that's the #1 cause of invasions in reefing above chemistry issues. I can make a phosphate/nitrate unideal tank comply regarding invasions if light power is simply chopped bigtime, corals won't suffer as we employ direct feeding. stay on the wheel as long as you like, when the invasions build up bigtime and you're losing stuff we can do a rip clean. you could do one now, before that buildup, but 99% won't. they demand the hands off easy way, and the nuisance algae forum shows how that works. the most important thing you can learn that's unique to nano reefs is that ID, chemistry and subtle biological balance isn't how you have a winning tank, you simply require the tank to comply by physical force and it will. None of the rules on cycling or new tank care state this, so what promulgates is nearly constant invasions and fish disease, it's in the threads to read.

find a rip clean thread, look at that outcome contrast.

you have a way to have a 100% perfectly clean tank by tomorrow, not one single invasion in sight. to not seize that shows that nano reef invasion is a psychology, not chemistry or biology, its merely a choice. we repeat what causes invasions by choice, by following the masses, or we choose to simply be invasion free in nano reefing right from the start. it's solely a matter of resolve to win, most have a very very very very low resolve although they want to win very badly, but only if they can luck into it. taking the reigns of a nano reef and making it comply just isn't for the masses.

there are some, few, nano reefs who if they knew the option to simply be invasion free by the work they do could create massive $$ high quality nanos without any luck. that's the type I'm appealing to
 
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brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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I prefer working the really bad jobs. the ones allowed to fester for months on end.

hopefully following the common path works here, but if it doesn't, and your tank turns out like the ones in the massive dinos thread in the stickies inside the nuisance algae forum, send me a message and we'll fix it right up. in one day.

starting before you've lost animals is prudent, but sending me a totally wrecked tank on it's last limb before quitting is the current standard and those make for more shocking before and after pics for sure, I want the job when it's time. we w fix it by you showing me pics and I'll list the fix steps, then you post the after pics. I collect those in rip clean threads to show others how to opt out of slow sustained tank crashes.

for example:

followed the common approach for dinos and wound up here:

p1.jpg




decided to win, consulted a rip clean thread, we got this, 24 hours later:

p2.jpg




every invasion in nano reefing works this way, it doesn't even matter what the species is.
 
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jeep454

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Without a visual reference, you may need more cleanup crew for the sand bes.
This photo is under white light to get a true color. You can see the tracks from my CUC but it just seems like they want to push it around instead...
 

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LilElroyJetson

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you should rip clean the tank, because you translocated a bunch of dead algae into alternate invasion fuel

recommend: study the 700 page dinos invasion thread stickied at the top of the nuisance algae forum. nearly every page is your issue: they do not physically remove the offenders from the tank, they kill them internally. a few weeks later a new invasion capitalizes on the rotting mass and it's circular, cyclical for years now and they aren't getting off the wheel any time soon.

you rip clean your tank to make it comply, until you learn how to reef without it. allowing an invaded tank is mere passivity especially in a nano where it can easily be made to comply with the right resolve, the right motivation.

your lighting is nearly certainly entirely too bright, that's the #1 cause of invasions in reefing above chemistry issues. I can make a phosphate/nitrate unideal tank comply regarding invasions if light power is simply chopped bigtime, corals won't suffer as we employ direct feeding. stay on the wheel as long as you like, when the invasions build up bigtime and you're losing stuff we can do a rip clean. you could do one now, before that buildup, but 99% won't. they demand the hands off easy way, and the nuisance algae forum shows how that works. the most important thing you can learn that's unique to nano reefs is that ID, chemistry and subtle biological balance isn't how you have a winning tank, you simply require the tank to comply by physical force and it will. None of the rules on cycling or new tank care state this, so what promulgates is nearly constant invasions and fish disease, it's in the threads to read.

find a rip clean thread, look at that outcome contrast.

you have a way to have a 100% perfectly clean tank by tomorrow, not one single invasion in sight. to not seize that shows that nano reef invasion is a psychology, not chemistry or biology, its merely a choice. we repeat what causes invasions by choice, by following the masses, or we choose to simply be invasion free in nano reefing right from the start. it's solely a matter of resolve to win, most have a very very very very low resolve although they want to win very badly, but only if they can luck into it. taking the reigns of a nano reef and making it comply just isn't for the masses.

there are some, few, nano reefs who if they knew the option to simply be invasion free by the work they do could create massive $$ high quality nanos without any luck. that's the type I'm appealing to
Not needed for me at the moment, as I don’t have a tank up and running yet, but where can I best read up on your rip clean method for personal knowledge?
 

HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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