Dealing with ich(or something)

[CoryC]

So this weekend in my 72 gallon tank I lost a small tomini tang, a beautiful Hawaiian flame angel, and a baby blue hippo tang. It's either ich or marine velvet. I don't have either the room or time or ability to do a quarantine tank. Granted I should start one if I plan on adding another tang, but I've bought from suppliers that use an extensive quarantine process, and stores that purchase from suppliers that do. Not sure what it is or where it came from but something is in my tank, it's not the water quality. So I've got kick ich and rally so ill be adding both as recommended. Skimmer is off so I'll be doing a weekly water change in the mean time. Perhaps ill try to set up a qt tank afterwards. Currently my stock is trio barletts anthia, foxface lo, pair occellaris clowns, pair green chromks(my purple reef chromis died this weekend too), orange strips prawn goby, yasa hase goby, and my prized pair of Nahacky's fairy wrasse. I've also started supplementing food w garlic and metronidazole. We will see what happens, hopefully I catch it in time to prevent any further losses. Really don't wanna have to start this tank all over.

 

[Alex27]

How long have you had this tank setup? what did you add recently? and how healthy was it? did you acclimate?

these questions will help determine the problem.

 

[CoryC]

Tank has been set up for two months. I think it came from a small tomini tang but the Nahacky's wrasses are the most recent fish and they seem the healthiest.seemed healthy at the store. I acclimate everything over a couple hrs.

 

[Alex27]

Some tangs are ick magnets. it's possible that the tank transfer just made things worse. I'd suggest not adding any livestock until you have given the other fish a chance to make sure they don't get sick also. In addition, you might want to invest in a QT tank. its cheaper than losing fish to ick or anything else.

 

[CoryC]

I'm working on that. Don't have the space but I won't add anything until the outbreak is under control. Hopefully the kick ich works.

 

[k2parkstar]

It seems like you've got a lot of fish in a 72. I'm not the tang police but multiple tangs in a small tank, that is also such a new tank. My biggest recommendation would be to watch the fish and not add anymore for a while at least till the tank is more established. A QT is a must for tangs IMO.

 

[CoryC]

Yeah I understand. They were both very small.

 

[Rob.D]

Did you start treatment tonight?

 

[CoryC]

Yea I did. Rally and kick ich. Turned off skimmer and phosphate reactor.

 

[Dapple]

My Tomini tang (ich magnet) almost killed every fish in my 75. Tangs are the best for ich

 

[EvilMel]

I would NOT use chemicals like that in my tank, even if you paid me.

Blue hippo tangs are ich magnets and if you have one in your tank it's not a question of whether or not you'll get ich...but when. Even if those tangs were small it's still really bad to put them in a tank that size...especially multiple tangs.

Having said that, you're best bet in my opinion is a UV sterilizer and garlic in the food. That will cure ich from healthy-ish fish. If you ever buy another blue hippo tang you should immediately invest in a UV sterilizer so that as soon as you see the first signs of the parasites on their skin you can turn it on and kill the parasites that are floating in the water column.

 

[CoryC]

The uv sterilizer doesn't kill what's in the sand though and even then only what passes through it and exposed long enough provided the flow rate is adequate. I realize the tank wasnt optimum for them together, rookie mistake. It wasnt to be the hippo tangs permanent home.

 

[EvilMel]

A UV sterilizer will kill free-floating parasites in the water column. What do you think attaches to your fish? The ones in the sandbed or the ones free-floating in the water column? The UV sterilizer helps reduce the parasite load in the water and therefore decreases the available parasites for binding to your fish. It's WAY better than using chemicals, in my opinion.

 

[goreefer]

Cory, Make you a really good deal on my 29 and 20L tanks, one would make agrally good QT...
Complete with a stand that will fit either.

 

[goreefer]

I agree with Mel on the UV, that is about all that will take care of the free floating parasites.
Also agree that it is much better than chemicals, in a tank usually what goes in never comes out, they are closed systems.

 

[CoryC]

From what I read, ich doesn't really free float. It stays in or near the sand bed. Fish sleep on or near the sand bed and that's when they get infected.

 

[Rob.D]

From what I read, ich doesn't really free float. It stays in or near the sand bed. Fish sleep on or near the sand bed and that's when they get infected.

This may inform you a bit more.
FA164/FA164: Cryptocaryon irritans Infections (Marine White Spot Disease) in Fish

 

[SLUF681]

Ozone will kill free-floating and non free-floating parasites.

 

[CoryC]

From talking to people, and the symptoms I think I have/had some type of marine velvet. Less white salt sized spots and more a frosty appearance. I started my second dosage of rally today. Last recommended dose is tmrw. The clowns are the only ones exhibiting symptoms and everyone is eating. Ill probably end total tank treatment tmrw and continue supplementing food with a mix of garlic and vitamins and metronidazole.

 

[Rob.D]

From talking to people, and the symptoms I think I have/had some type of marine velvet. Less white salt sized spots and more a frosty appearance. I started my second dosage of rally today. Last recommended dose is tmrw. The clowns are the only ones exhibiting symptoms and everyone is eating. Ill probably end total tank treatment tmrw and continue supplementing food with a mix of garlic and vitamins and metronidazole.

Are your corals showing any sign of stress from the treatment?